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Old 08-24-2010, 10:39 AM   #61
Camel ADV OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsatdm
You may have less than that. Never thought to check when i installed my Bitubo's, but I have wondered since. Is there was something internal that would stop the fork before the last few inches are used up. Only way to check is pull the springs, put the cap on and see how far the fork will compress.
Your picture is about the same as my Bitubo.
At full compression there's only about 1/4" of shaft showing. I checked it before I assembled it.
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Old 08-25-2010, 11:08 AM   #62
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Not that I'd consider it a leading suspect, but spring binding could also limit travel.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:39 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxr140
Not that I'd consider it a leading suspect, but spring binding could also limit travel.
Yeah or the fact I mis-measured the oil level and they were hydro locked with 2" of shaft left. I blew the fork seals out and just got the new ones the other day. Still waiting on front brake pads (oil soaked the set that was on the bike).

Been plugging away at small stuff like adding a Burns Moto SAE power plug to my pannier so I can charge my laptop, camera, video camera ipod etc while I ride.

It's a pretty cool piece. $25 well spent I think.



Since I'm installing the Touratech tank I wanted to add an Anderson connector for jump starting so I don't need to pull the tank every time. 10gauge wire, 50amp connector:



Threw some Pivot Pegz on as my big stupid feet make it damn near impossible to shift while standing:



Added some small gussets to the pannier racks. Will be blasting and painting them tomorrow:



I drove to Portland last weekend to see friends and made the mistake of coming home through Seattle. I knew if I was there I'd stop and Touratech USA and spend money I really didn't want to spend. Even though I have been planning on buying the big tank, I was (am still) having a hard time justifying $1400 for a gas tank. I was really thinking the longer I went without buying it the more likely it would be that I wouldn't ever get it, guess I was wrong!

It's a pretty beefy tank. The parts box is HUGE and there are tons of misc bits and pieces, bags of fitting and hardware and quite possibly the WORST instructions I've ever seen! Generally I'm a fan of Touratechs products but the installation directions are terrible. The pics are small and grainy, the text is poorly translated. I found a larger version online, it's better but not much.

I wasn't happy with the Krylon Fusion white paint on the bike. I talked to several ppl that swear by it even though it's rattle can. I've never had luck with spray bombs but I thought I'd try this stuff as it apparently etches itself into the plastic, no priming required and it's supposed to tough as nails. Nope, not my experience anyway. Since I had to strip all the parts off the bike for the tank install I figured it was a great time to repaint everything too.

While the bike is stripped all be checking the valves, changing plugs and replacing the battery-acid-eaten coils and wiring harness too.

Had to yank my TT crash bars off as they obviously won't work with the tank.



Strip all the body panels off, exhaust rear sub frame and tank:



Sub frame and tank:




Measure and mark bulkhead fitting holes:



Wipe the tank down, drill and install the fittings:



Realized that the supplied countersunk bolts are too short to make it all the way through the various plates, sealing washers and tank wall. The instructions call for M6x20mm and that is what was supplied but there isn't even 1/2 a thread sticking out the back once the aluminum sealing washers go on. Without the washers on the nut will JUST bite on the bolt. Not sure what the problem is, maybe my tank is a bit thicker than most? Friday 5pm, where the F$%k am I going to get stainless M6x25mm countersunk bolts?! As it turns out nowhere! One freaking store in a city of a million people stock this size but they are only open Monday - Friday of course.



I got the new bolts today and got the fitting all wrapped up, re-installed the sub frame and tank, routed the fuel lines, remounted the ecm and wiring on the sub frame and put 10 litres in the tank to make sure the fittings aren't leaking. Tomorrow we're painting the tank, rear side panels, beak etc and hopefully by the weekend I'll have it all assembled.
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Camel ADV screwed with this post 09-20-2010 at 11:47 PM
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:01 AM   #64
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Thanks GNP77 - This is great!
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Old 09-23-2010, 01:53 AM   #65
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While waiting on paint I checked valves tonight. They are all with in spec but not by much. Min spec on intake is 0.18mm and mine are 0.19-0.20mm. Min exhaust is 0.27 and mine are 0.28, 0.30, 0.31 and 0.32. Since we will be doing over 30,000km on this trip I'll need to adjust the valves before we go. I've never worked with shim-under-bucket so this will be an experience.

While in Siberia last summer my stock battery failed. We were in a small village at the time and there was a shop that sold batteries but nothing sealed. It was getting late and we had about 300km to Ulan Ude. We installed the battery closest in size to the original (cost about $14 US). It didn't have enough power to start the bike but if jumped, it had enough capacity to keep it running (the original Exide was TOTALLY cooked and wouldn't keep the bike running after the booster cables came off). A non-sealled battery in a bike is terrible because every time you lean acid leaks out the vent. I installed a sealed battery once we hit Ulan Ude but the damage was done. The acid had leak on to the top of the motor and down the back. The coil tops and seals were totally destroyed. I'm very lucky I didn't get stranded anywhere because of it.

All the powder coat on the valve cover burned off by the acid:



Down the back of the motor too:











Of course with the coil seals eaten away all the dirt and oil has gotten down the spark plug holes and is damn near impossible to clean out without having the debris fall into the plug holes into the cylinders.

Grungy oily plugs, color looks pretty good though:

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Old 09-23-2010, 11:25 AM   #66
AlanI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNP77
A non-sealled battery in a bike is terrible because every time you lean acid leaks out the vent.
I'm not sure that I follow this assertion. Not saying that you're wrong of course, just that I don't quite understand it. My wife's BMW650CS Scarver came with a lead acid (fluid) battery and in fact when it eventually went bust after 5 years we had to replace it. After much information searching it transpired that only lead acid batteries could be used in this bike and of course, only these were available. To cut a long story short, throughout the seven years that she owned this bike there was never any sign of battery acid leaking even when dropped a few times. Could it be the case that with the battery you obtained/fitted the problem wasn't so much with the vent but rather a top section that wasn't thoroughly sealed to the bottom half?
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:29 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanI
I'm not sure that I follow this assertion. Not saying that you're wrong of course, just that I don't quite understand it. My wife's BMW650CS Scarver came with a lead acid (fluid) battery and in fact when it eventually went bust after 5 years we had to replace it. After much information searching it transpired that only lead acid batteries could be used in this bike and of course, only these were available. To cut a long story short, throughout the seven years that she owned this bike there was never any sign of battery acid leaking even when dropped a few times. Could it be the case that with the battery you obtained/fitted the problem wasn't so much with the vent but rather a top section that wasn't thoroughly sealed to the bottom half?
Some lead acid batteries are totally sealed once the acid is added but others have a vent on them. The style I used (no choice) had a vent which acid came out of whenever the battery was in a position other than totally flat. There are lots of sealed lead acid batteries but this wasn't one of them!
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:49 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNP77
Some lead acid batteries are totally sealed once the acid is added but others have a vent on them.
No, the lead acid battery type that was fitted to the CS had six cells with an elbow vent fitted top right when viewed from the top. To this elbow vent a flexible rubber tube (pull off type for when battery removed etc) was fitted which ran down inside the frame coming out a couple of centimetres below the engine. I thought this was standard design, and never having experienced any problems of leakage (even with bike fall downs) is what made me wonder whether it was the sealing of the top and bottom halves of your particular battery that was at fault as opposed to the vent itself.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:15 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanI
No, the lead acid battery type that was fitted to the CS had six cells with an elbow vent fitted top right when viewed from the top....
Ahhhh, dude, I have no idea what was fitted to your bike or how it worked for you. Like I posted earlier, some lead acid batteries are sealed some are not. At the time, the only option I had was a non sealed battery which leaked acid out the vent and down my motor. That is a fact and not up for debate. If your non sealed batteries didn't leak acid and melt things on your motor then that's great news for you.
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:31 PM   #70
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I think your experience is the exception, not the norm. Non-sealed batteries have been around since dirt, and when properly vented and properly filled, don't cause issues or leak unless the bike tips over. Normal lean angles (including dragging pegs on a KLR) aren't a problem.

That said, there's no point in buying non sealed anymore, and quite frankly, I don't even know if you could find many non sealed batteries in 2010!
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Old 09-24-2010, 06:33 PM   #71
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In the backwoods of Siberia it seems he found such a beast. I think everyone beating this horse is mistaking him stating facts and not making a generalization about lead acid batteries sealed or unsealed. Or that is how I read it. He was in essentially the middle of nowhere with few options and got a Piece of Sh*t item.

Then again maybe I am reading it wrong and he is bad mouthing all lead acid batteries. There I have flogged the other end of the horse. Horse tartar anyone?
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:39 AM   #72
AlanI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GNP77
.....I had was a non sealed battery which leaked acid out the vent and down my motor. That is a fact and not up for debate. If your non sealed batteries didn't leak acid and melt things on your motor then that's great news for you.
It would appear that you have taken offence to my post which clearly wasn't my intention. If this was caused as a result of my choice of words then I can only apologise. In my first post I did say, however, "Not saying that you're wrong of course, just that I don't quite understand it".

End of this particular discussion I think.
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Old 09-26-2010, 04:07 AM   #73
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Enjoying this and I don't have an F800GS..................!

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Old 09-26-2010, 10:50 AM   #74
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Looking forward to seeing the tank on the bike.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:31 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YetiGS
Looking forward to seeing the tank on the bike.
A couple friends painted it last night and are wet sanding it as I type this. I'm thrilled with the how well the paint turned out I'm waiting on one valve shim which should be here Tuesday and after that I can start to get everything back together for (hopefully) the last time
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