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Old 02-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #15976
fbj913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windy Rider View Post
Yes, I've been looking for these, be ordering some, I have nearly worn though the paint in places. Thanks for posting
I put film on mine day 1. It helped.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:59 PM   #15977
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Sorry for bringing this up again but I found a more informative post from the 675 site regarding removing/replacing the CCT without taking the bike half apart as suggested in the manual. Though I suspect for replacing the CCT with OEM or the same unit after inspecting there is no need to complete the steps or rotating the crank since there is no additional tension requirements like the plunger in the "race" version the link describes. Just thought it might be useful to others as well.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22714
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Old 03-01-2013, 02:17 AM   #15978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Sorry for bringing this up again but I found a more informative post from the 675 site regarding removing/replacing the CCT without taking the bike half apart as suggested in the manual. Though I suspect for replacing the CCT with OEM or the same unit after inspecting there is no need to complete the steps or rotating the crank since there is no additional tension requirements like the plunger in the "race" version the link describes. Just thought it might be useful to others as well.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22714
Thanks for posting. I did see that in post #32 he says that the 09 model has the race tensioner as standard. That's not the case according to this :- http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triump...lock_03=610410 as it still shows an hydraulic tensioner. AND.....the 800s use that same tensioner:- http://www.worldoftriumph.com/triump...lock_03=560041
So I guess we would need to buy the race tensioner for the later VIN number 675 and it'll bolt straight in.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:55 AM   #15979
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Wait...
Which hydraulic tensioner? Stock Tiger uses regular spring-pair tensioner. There is no hydralulics apart from holes for lubrication.

I have quite experience with CCTs because of my other bike. I tried APE tensioners, modified some ratchet -type etc.
The "Race" tensioner is just bolt with nut. Basically it is possible to even modify stock one to be same. It does require regular attention and if you get it wrong you shorten life of your camchain and guides considerably. It is not matter of "adjust once and forget". Done it, been there.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:07 AM   #15980
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If you go back up to the link I posted from "hordboy" on the 675 site, he tells exactly how to set tension. Re-setting it is no big deal. Just do it at oil change intervals.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:21 AM   #15981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich B View Post
From my experience, not only are the white ones the fastest, they have a plusher ride and handle better
I have noticed the same.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:08 AM   #15982
bluesman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
If you go back up to the link I posted from "hordboy" on the 675 site, he tells exactly how to set tension. Re-setting it is no big deal. Just do it at oil change intervals.
Well, I adjusted quite a few, so instructions there are not new news. But what I am saying is that my experience was somewhat different. There are room for mistake (and no way to know exactly how to reverse it) and adjustment intervals may vary too. But it does not mean that it is not manageable if owner are accurate and able. In my experience CCT failure are not anymore main cause for grenading engines, and I had one of bikes known for CCT failure and had CCT failure on another one (1992) with snail pair and spiral spring (the "bad" design). Plus DYI manual CCTs, APE CCTs, adaptation of Kawasaki CCTs to Hondas etc. Yet still I do prefer automatic ones - but that's my personal choice of course...
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:20 AM   #15983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
Wait...
Which hydraulic tensioner? Stock Tiger uses regular spring-pair tensioner. There is no hydralulics apart from holes for lubrication.
That's not what the manual says:

Quote:
Warning: The hydraulic tensioner is under spring tension. Always
wear hand, eye, and face protection when withdrawing
the tensioner mounting bolts and take great care to
minimise the risk of injury and loss of components.
and

Quote:
Note:
After fitting to the engine, the hydraulic
tensioner
will be empty of engine oil. After
starting the engine, the camshaft drive chain
and tensioner . blade will be noisy until full
pressure is felt at the tensioner plunger. This
could take up to 5 seconds.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:31 AM   #15984
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hm. Interesting. It is spring loaded plunger tensioner. Even in workshop manual diagrams it is what shown. Yet they talk about hydraulics. I am curious now. Will pull it to look. I have seen one from str and I seen no evidence of hydrolock. Must be something tricky.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:39 AM   #15985
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
hm. Interesting. It is spring loaded plunger tensioner. Even in workshop manual diagrams it is what shown. Yet they talk about hydraulics. I am curious now. Will pull it to look. I have seen one from str and I seen no evidence of hydrolock. Must be something tricky.
I can tell you when you fire up the motor after resetting the plunger, it makes quite a racket until pressure comes up. The spring appears to be there to help take some of the load off the resister ring after pressure has bled down. The resister ring itself is very thin and not likely to hold the plunger in place on its own.

One of the removal steps is to drain all the oil out of the tensioner. There's way more in there than would be needed for lubrication.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:41 AM   #15986
bluesman
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guess what. According to str gurus in 2011 some str started getting hydraulic ccts instead of mechanical. Visually only color of cct housing different. Black ones hydraulic, silver mechanical. And nothing changed in pictures in parts diagrams. So, I can guess that my 2012 XC have hydraulic since it is black. Wow. My first bike with hydro cct. :) You learn everyday!
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:07 PM   #15987
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Sorry for bringing this up again but I found a more informative post from the 675 site regarding removing/replacing the CCT without taking the bike half apart as suggested in the manual. Though I suspect for replacing the CCT with OEM or the same unit after inspecting there is no need to complete the steps or rotating the crank since there is no additional tension requirements like the plunger in the "race" version the link describes. Just thought it might be useful to others as well.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22714

I took my CCT out and nothing seems out of ordinary. I'll see the next time I start it on a cold morning. Maybe simply removing/replacing fixed something.

As far doing the remove/replace with only removing the side cover and wedging the chain slider without removing cam cover etc... Releasing the tensioner is a little sketchy since you need to rotate the engine without the wedge and by neccesity the slider needs to move and push back against the tension to release it so you feel like it might be possible for the chain to skip a cam gear tooth. I just kept finger pressure against the slider to make sure it didn't move too much. You can hear a click of the tensioner releasing. I loosed the CCT screws a little to make sure I did indeed have pressure once again from the CCT. Since you can't check the cam timing after doing that it's a little unsettling. Maybe I am just being paranoid. I'll probably repeat the process once I go in to check my valves in a couple months just so I can see how likely it would be to jump a cam gear tooth with everything visible. It seems to run fine.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:05 AM   #15988
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For anyone that has done the valve inspection themselves, were you able to do it without removing the air box? From the side seems like there might be room to get the valve cover off without removing the air box. I wasn't paying attention to that last time I have the tank lifted for filter replacement.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #15989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
For anyone that has done the valve inspection themselves, were you able to do it without removing the air box? From the side seems like there might be room to get the valve cover off without removing the air box. I wasn't paying attention to that last time I have the tank lifted for filter replacement.
I had the airbox off when checking out the stepper motor and installing the uni pre-filter. There's nothing to it, so either way. Valve check should be a cake walk.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:47 AM   #15990
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Originally Posted by browneye View Post
I had the airbox off when checking out the stepper motor and installing the uni pre-filter. There's nothing to it, so either way. Valve check should be a cake walk.
I've had the airbox off before as well and while it's easy, it's still one less step if it doesn't need to be taken off.

Anyway, I got the valve cover off and the airbox doesn't need to be taken off. The two screws holding the rectifier on need to be backed all the way out to get enough clearance to remove the cover as it hits the throttle linkage on the other side.

I just suspend the tank from above rather than removing fuel lines etc... and taking it off.

Back to my CCT, the marks on the cam gears still seem to be lining up so it appears all is well with that. I'll check the valves later or tomorrow.

Some small leakage around the gasket surrounding two of the spark plugs but not bad. After 13k+ miles the plugs looked good but will be replaced.
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