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Old 03-01-2013, 11:39 AM   #15991
andykeck
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesman View Post
hm. Interesting. It is spring loaded plunger tensioner. Even in workshop manual diagrams it is what shown. Yet they talk about hydraulics. I am curious now. Will pull it to look. I have seen one from str and I seen no evidence of hydrolock. Must be something tricky.
I can tell you when you fire up the motor after resetting the plunger, it makes quite a racket until pressure comes up. The spring appears to be there to help take some of the load off the resister ring after pressure has bled down. The resister ring itself is very thin and not likely to hold the plunger in place on its own.

One of the removal steps is to drain all the oil out of the tensioner. There's way more in there than would be needed for lubrication.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:41 AM   #15992
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guess what. According to str gurus in 2011 some str started getting hydraulic ccts instead of mechanical. Visually only color of cct housing different. Black ones hydraulic, silver mechanical. And nothing changed in pictures in parts diagrams. So, I can guess that my 2012 XC have hydraulic since it is black. Wow. My first bike with hydro cct. :) You learn everyday!
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Old 03-01-2013, 12:07 PM   #15993
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Sorry for bringing this up again but I found a more informative post from the 675 site regarding removing/replacing the CCT without taking the bike half apart as suggested in the manual. Though I suspect for replacing the CCT with OEM or the same unit after inspecting there is no need to complete the steps or rotating the crank since there is no additional tension requirements like the plunger in the "race" version the link describes. Just thought it might be useful to others as well.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=22714

I took my CCT out and nothing seems out of ordinary. I'll see the next time I start it on a cold morning. Maybe simply removing/replacing fixed something.

As far doing the remove/replace with only removing the side cover and wedging the chain slider without removing cam cover etc... Releasing the tensioner is a little sketchy since you need to rotate the engine without the wedge and by neccesity the slider needs to move and push back against the tension to release it so you feel like it might be possible for the chain to skip a cam gear tooth. I just kept finger pressure against the slider to make sure it didn't move too much. You can hear a click of the tensioner releasing. I loosed the CCT screws a little to make sure I did indeed have pressure once again from the CCT. Since you can't check the cam timing after doing that it's a little unsettling. Maybe I am just being paranoid. I'll probably repeat the process once I go in to check my valves in a couple months just so I can see how likely it would be to jump a cam gear tooth with everything visible. It seems to run fine.
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Old 03-02-2013, 06:05 AM   #15994
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For anyone that has done the valve inspection themselves, were you able to do it without removing the air box? From the side seems like there might be room to get the valve cover off without removing the air box. I wasn't paying attention to that last time I have the tank lifted for filter replacement.
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #15995
browneye
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For anyone that has done the valve inspection themselves, were you able to do it without removing the air box? From the side seems like there might be room to get the valve cover off without removing the air box. I wasn't paying attention to that last time I have the tank lifted for filter replacement.
I had the airbox off when checking out the stepper motor and installing the uni pre-filter. There's nothing to it, so either way. Valve check should be a cake walk.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:47 AM   #15996
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I had the airbox off when checking out the stepper motor and installing the uni pre-filter. There's nothing to it, so either way. Valve check should be a cake walk.
I've had the airbox off before as well and while it's easy, it's still one less step if it doesn't need to be taken off.

Anyway, I got the valve cover off and the airbox doesn't need to be taken off. The two screws holding the rectifier on need to be backed all the way out to get enough clearance to remove the cover as it hits the throttle linkage on the other side.

I just suspend the tank from above rather than removing fuel lines etc... and taking it off.

Back to my CCT, the marks on the cam gears still seem to be lining up so it appears all is well with that. I'll check the valves later or tomorrow.

Some small leakage around the gasket surrounding two of the spark plugs but not bad. After 13k+ miles the plugs looked good but will be replaced.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:53 AM   #15997
GearHd6
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The throttle cable bracket that is attached to the throttle bodies didn't get in the way of removing the valve cover? I needed to remove the bracket in order to get the cover off. The book says to completely remove the throttle bodies.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:08 AM   #15998
The Toad
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quite possibly a strange questions... engine "sound".. "noise" ???

Minutes away from pulling the trigger on a Tiger

Its a used bike and all seems fine EXCEPT... the engine makes what to me sounds a bit "strange"??? I know sounds can be hard to explain but Ill give it a shot... there seems to be a "whirring" sound coming from the front/top of the motor... almost.. I say.. almost.. like an accessory belt on a car that needs some lube....

Ive owner lots and lots and lots of bikes and the engines often sound very different... but this is a new one too me anyway..

Is this a "normal" engine sound for the Tiger???

thanks,
-Brian
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:11 AM   #15999
bluesman
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Originally Posted by The Toad View Post
Minutes away from pulling the trigger on a Tiger

Its a used bike and all seems fine EXCEPT... the engine makes what to me sounds a bit "strange"??? I know sounds can be hard to explain but Ill give it a shot... there seems to be a "whirring" sound coming from the front/top of the motor... almost.. I say.. almost.. like an accessory belt on a car that needs some lube....

Ive owner lots and lots and lots of bikes and the engines often sound very different... but this is a new one too me anyway..

Is this a "normal" engine sound for the Tiger???

thanks,
-Brian
Whine/whirr or whistling is signature sound of that and some other Triumph engines. But without hearing it - not easy to say 100% that it is usual or not. Generally it is not very silent motor.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:56 AM   #16000
ducnut
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Originally Posted by The Toad View Post
Minutes away from pulling the trigger on a Tiger

Its a used bike and all seems fine EXCEPT... the engine makes what to me sounds a bit "strange"??? I know sounds can be hard to explain but Ill give it a shot... there seems to be a "whirring" sound coming from the front/top of the motor... almost.. I say.. almost.. like an accessory belt on a car that needs some lube....

Ive owner lots and lots and lots of bikes and the engines often sound very different... but this is a new one too me anyway..

Is this a "normal" engine sound for the Tiger???

thanks,
-Brian
Signature sound of the modern, Triumph triple. It's the counter-balancer drive gears, as they're straight-cut and that causes the whirring/whining sound. That sound should be more apparent, down on the right side of the engine.
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:17 PM   #16001
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Originally Posted by The Toad View Post
Minutes away from pulling the trigger on a Tiger



Is this a "normal" engine sound for the Tiger???

thanks,
-Brian
yes
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Old 03-02-2013, 12:18 PM   #16002
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Originally Posted by GearHd6 View Post
The throttle cable bracket that is attached to the throttle bodies didn't get in the way of removing the valve cover? I needed to remove the bracket in order to get the cover off. The book says to completely remove the throttle bodies.

The cam cover gets stuck between that bracket and the finned heat sink on the other side. Loosen but not completely removing that heat sink seemed easier to me so that's what I did.
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Old 03-02-2013, 01:12 PM   #16003
The Toad
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thanks for the replies on the "whirring" sound quesiton...

now I know.

Trigger is pulled (non XC)... should be in the garage by tomorrow.

Let the farkleing/mods begin

Speaking of mods.... I will be mounting some more aggressive tires (probably the Shinko 705's).. wondering if the lower front fender causes a problem with taller tires???

Also open to suggestions as far as what (more aggressive) tires?

thanks,
-Brian
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:31 PM   #16004
browneye
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Speaking of mods.... I will be mounting some more aggressive tires (probably the Shinko 705's).. wondering if the lower front fender causes a problem with taller tires???

Also open to suggestions as far as what (more aggressive) tires?

thanks,
-Brian
Consider FullBore USA's. The rear is v-rated and tubless. For all I know the front 19 is too. I have about 3K on mine on the XC, they will probly go another thou. Good tire on and off pavement. And cheap as hell.

Unless you're really going to see more than the occasional dirt road the scorp trails that come on them are a superb tire. Air down to about 22 for dirt traction. But then you dd need to air back up for hiway. I carry a 12v pump.

Personally I wouldn't do anything more aggressive for a roadie. Heideneau K60's are another good choice - more $$, and little more aggressive tread.

Not mods req'd for either.
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:55 AM   #16005
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Personally I found the scorpion tyres to lose all semblance of grip when half worn. Rubbish on the road. A better, much better,tyre is the Dunlop trailmax. Raising the mudguard on the 800, ad opposed to the xc, requires changing the brake hoses.

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