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Old 03-18-2013, 01:43 PM   #16336
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
I rather suspect a different comfort level with high and heavy bikes.
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Originally Posted by Chinookmark View Post
Don't forget, different people have different comfort levels when it comes to bike height.
Agreed.

Two-up, I feel much more comfortable with the Roadie. The XC reminded me of my 1050, height-wise, which I'm looking to get away from.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:03 PM   #16337
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Originally Posted by lmychajluk View Post
I have about a 30" inseam, and just picked up my 800 last week. I'm up on my toes or the balls of my feet at best with the seat in the low position. Without changing links, etc..., is there some adjustment to the suspension? Will the bike 'settle' a little as it breaks in (~300mi on it now)?
Did you try low seat option? Not necessary it will help, but I found it to be tad lower and more comfortable - for me. I wear jeans L30, so I guess I also have 30 inseam? Anyway...just suggestion. May be dealer have one to try.
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:23 PM   #16338
lmychajluk
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Yep, same... 30" jeans (sometimes even 29" if I can find them). If I get the chance, I may try that low seat, but I'm not going to buy it just to try. I really don't want to start futzing with the suspension or the geometry of the bike just yet...
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #16339
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Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
When you lower the rear, you're raking out the frontend. If you're talking a bike with a soft-ish rear suspension, lowering only the rear will cause the bike to not finish turns even more. That means you'll be leaning the bike over further and further, yet, it won't turn. This will cause hard parts to drag and/or running off the outside of the turn's exit. You want to equally lower the front and rear. Lowering the front pays off, because most people, who are at their inseam limit, tend to slide forward on the seat at a stop. Don't be afraid to tinker with geometry, as you can always return it to the original position.
Good advice. I would recommend not lowering the suspension, but just get the lower gel seat. If you run a lot of sag to get close to the ground, the bike will bottom out a lot.
I would love to be 5'10", but that's not gonna happen (5'3", 26" inseam).
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Old 03-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #16340
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Good advice. I would recommend not lowering the suspension, but just get the lower gel seat.
At least the current low gel seat does nothing in reach to the ground compared to the standard seat as it is just as wide and much harder. On the standard, it might take 5 minutes to get the same reach, but if you have ridden on it for 4k miles, it takes about 10s to sink in and be at an actually better level than with the low one because the ridges aren't as stiff.

I have both these seats at home as my wife likes to ride my Tiger, too, and this is actually from what she said about the seats (and I confirmed pretty much).

It would be better to get a re-shaped low seat from a 3rd party because there you can get want you want/need, not what comes out of a production line a few hundred times ...
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:11 PM   #16341
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What's involved in the 12k service that's costs $800-00 per my dealer?
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:16 PM   #16342
kingofZroad
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
It certainly is - just be careful with what you do there. Maybe it's better to just get used to it. If you don't want a suspension shop to make the XC suspension as stiff as the Roadie suspension, you'll drag hard parts earlier on the XC if you bring it down so low. I wouldn't want to catch hard parts when cornering, might not be an issue for you, but as said before, the Tiger is fairly wide at the pegs, so that stuff drags very early without lowering either bike ...
I cannot even imagine dragging the pegs on my XC!!!

Aren't both bikes on the same frame? If so, wouldn't the extra 2" in the front tire more than compensate for the lowered fork? (Or are you saying the XC suspension will "dive" in the corners under hard braking?)
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:13 PM   #16343
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What's involved in the 12k service that's costs $800-00 per my dealer?
Valve check and adjustment. But even that shouldn't drive the price that high.
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:19 PM   #16344
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I cannot even imagine dragging the pegs on my XC!!!
I did it on the test ride ... was kind of annoyed though. You just need a bump in a corner where you lay over fairly far and the suspension compresses and there you are.

Coming from a Telelever suspension (virtually no dive under braking), the XC felt like a rocking horse. The Roadie much less so due to the stiffer suspension. But still - the XC suspension is definitely better overall than the Roadie's, no question about that. But compared to well adjusted 3rd party suspension, they both suck, the XC just sucks a little less ...
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Old 03-18-2013, 07:19 PM   #16345
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What's involved in the 12k service that's costs $800-00 per my dealer?
Cheers
That's ridiculous. BTW, you can look at the maintenance schedule in your manual and see what will be done. I inspected my valves a couple of weeks ago. Maybe a 4 hour job. Add a couple to that if any are out of spec.and at 12k miles most people, from what I have read, don't have any valves out of spec.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:32 PM   #16346
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That's ridiculous. BTW, you can look at the maintenance schedule in your manual and see what will be done. I inspected my valves a couple of weeks ago. Maybe a 4 hour job. Add a couple to that if any are out of spec.and at 12k miles most people, from what I have read, don't have any valves out of spec.
That does seem a little high, but honestly, it costs money to have a shop maintain your bike. What shop rate for you guys, for me it's $90-95/hour. So your 4 hour job is $360 in labour alone and that's just the valves. That's one of the reasons I do all my own servicing, but the main reason is convenience. With no dealer close by I'm almost forced to do all my own, or hotel it on dealer visits. That ain't gonna happen.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:39 AM   #16347
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That does seem a little high, but honestly, it costs money to have a shop maintain your bike. What shop rate for you guys, for me it's $90-95/hour. So your 4 hour job is $360 in labour alone and that's just the valves. That's one of the reasons I do all my own servicing, but the main reason is convenience. With no dealer close by I'm almost forced to do all my own, or hotel it on dealer visits. That ain't gonna happen.
+1 to this; what's the price for our time? I'm also in the $95/hr world in NYC. Plus tax, EPA fluid disposal fees AND my Bonneville needed all 8 shims on it's 12k (to be fair, it was 3 years old and closer to 14k miles). So I dropped $800 total. Good professional service, from a CPA, MD, lawyer or mechanic, costs money-
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Old 03-19-2013, 04:14 AM   #16348
bluesman
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
At least the current low gel seat does nothing in reach to the ground compared to the standard seat as it is just as wide and much harder. On the standard, it might take 5 minutes to get the same reach, but if you have ridden on it for 4k miles, it takes about 10s to sink in and be at an actually better level than with the low one because the ridges aren't as stiff.

I have both these seats at home as my wife likes to ride my Tiger, too, and this is actually from what she said about the seats (and I confirmed pretty much).

It would be better to get a re-shaped low seat from a 3rd party because there you can get want you want/need, not what comes out of a production line a few hundred times ...
Hm. My low seat is not gel and more comfy than stock. Interesting.

Here is my seat

bluesman screwed with this post 03-19-2013 at 04:15 AM Reason: damn picture still too big
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:10 AM   #16349
elan
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Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
That's ridiculous. BTW, you can look at the maintenance schedule in your manual and see what will be done. I inspected my valves a couple of weeks ago. Maybe a 4 hour job. Add a couple to that if any are out of spec.and at 12k miles most people, from what I have read, don't have any valves out of spec.
While I haven't done it myself, 4 hours seems like a long time just to check valves on an inline motor. I do hear it's pretty tight in there though.

Not sure if I'm comparing apples to oranges, but I could check valves on my V-twin TL1000R in a couple hours, taking my time. My CRF450 takes about 30 mins :P
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:20 AM   #16350
ducnut
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most people, from what I have read, don't have any valves out of spec.
My dealer says the same.
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