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Old 05-26-2013, 06:39 AM   #17191
Bueller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vanjoosten View Post
That is a really nice item!

Another option is Harbor Freight. They sell a complete set of metric hex sockets for $12.99. I just removed the 17mm from the socket and keep 17mm wrench in my bag. The rest come in handy when working on the bike...

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece...7880-html.html

Untitled
I know this is late to the party, haven't read this thread for a while. This is what I use:



http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Very compact, fits a standard 3/8 drive, and because it is shouldered it fits nicely and solid against the head of the axle nut. It also fits the fill and drain plugs on many VW/Audi transmissions, which is the reason I have one.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:00 AM   #17192
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Tire wear

I never had a bike wear out the front tire before the rear. The original front Trail/Battle Wing on the 800XC was gone at 7300 miles with a good 2000 left on the rear. I went with the stock sized Heindenau K60s for a more 50/50 tire. Have been very pleased with 7000 miles on the rear with channels worn creating a solid center strip. The front just starting to show minor brake cupping. I believe I'll get another 3 - 5 thousand out of the rear. These tires handle as well leaned over as the Wings. Last weekend did a nice two wheel drift keeping up with sport tourers on Hwy 191 on the eastern boarder of Arizona. For a 21" front this Triumph can handle!
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:55 AM   #17193
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
Think about it again:

1) Make the big bolt flush (not torqued).
2) Torque the small bolt (will have slot).
3) Torque the big bolt from flush to tight.

Slot is on the small bolt applying the pressure to the handlebar as it is supposed to be. The manual says "torque the big bolt first" but that has the downside that you can't rotate the Rox risers to the desired position anymore. You can completely follow the manual if the position of the Rox works for you where you can tighten the 8mm bolts through the hole in the Rox clamp.
As I'm not interested in ROX risers I'll bolt mine on the correct way. Your method might well allow you to move the risers but it still leaves it torqued incorrectly as by torquing the small bolt first, when you torque the big bolt second, the small bolt will end up over tensioned and you could well snap the clamp (I've seen it happen). And, as I said before, it could be that all the mating surfaces that the 10mm bolt should seat, won't be.
Still it's your bike, do what you want.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:07 AM   #17194
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
Your method might well allow you to move the risers but it still leaves it torqued incorrectly as by torquing the small bolt first, when you torque the big bolt second, the small bolt will end up over tensioned and you could well snap the clamp (I've seen it happen).
As long as you bring the front to a slight torque, that's not quite correct. The "slot" stays with the small bolt, the big one takes only torque to the bolt and the mounting surface if you had it flush and slightly torqued before torquing the small one.
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:56 AM   #17195
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I tried to install my Rox this w/e and boy are they difficult and trying to follow either Cug or Blacktiger's direction has just got me all confused.

Has anyone done this successfully correctly and being able to torque with the larger and smaller bolts as of the life of me, can't figure this out. FWIW, I was never good with solving puzzles either.
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Old 05-27-2013, 10:27 AM   #17196
Rob Dirt
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If your not picky about the Rox riser position, then it's easy. Just position the risers to allow access to the bolts. You can use the socket as a stop & it makes it easy to set both risers exactly the same. Torque them down & install the bars & top clamp. If your picky about the riser adjustment (like me), then you'll need to make adjustments from there. I loosened the big bolts, spun the risers, & retorqued the big bolts.
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:10 AM   #17197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBeast View Post
I tried to install my Rox this w/e and boy are they difficult and trying to follow either Cug or Blacktiger's direction has just got me all confused.

Has anyone done this successfully correctly and being able to torque with the larger and smaller bolts as of the life of me, can't figure this out. FWIW, I was never good with solving puzzles either.
A set of these really helped.



I'm fighting with my Kaoko/Barkbuster installation right now. The throttle and cruise control don't seem to work if I tighten the end bolt (using the screw provided with the Barkbusters, not the one provided with the Kaoko).
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Old 05-27-2013, 11:37 AM   #17198
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
As long as you bring the front to a slight torque, that's not quite correct. The "slot" stays with the small bolt, the big one takes only torque to the bolt and the mounting surface if you had it flush and slightly torqued before torquing the small one.
So now you've changed your tune and not torquing the small bolt to spec. Make your method & mind up! Anyway, I don't care any more.
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Old 05-27-2013, 01:45 PM   #17199
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
So now you've changed your tune and not torquing the small bolt to spec. Make your method & mind up! Anyway, I don't care any more.
What the f are you talking about? Seems that you just don't understand it and therefore think it's wrong. What about reading and thinking?

Front (normally big bolts) first. Flush, so that you have solid contact. Then small to spec. Then big to full torque. You'll get to proper spec on both. If not you're doing it wrong.
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Old 05-27-2013, 02:08 PM   #17200
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Originally Posted by BlackBeast View Post
I tried to install my Rox this w/e and boy are they difficult and trying to follow either Cug or Blacktiger's direction has just got me all confused.
There are two types of Rox for the size that fits the Tiger best. The matte ones have a hole in the lower part of the clamp that holds the bars. The "machined finish" don't. Most people want a bit higher and back, so they can put the hole over the back and put the allen key through it.
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Old 05-27-2013, 02:13 PM   #17201
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I don't understand all the fuss about the bolt torque procedure. Why isn't German torque on all 4 bolts good enough, and why does it matter where the slot is?

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Old 05-27-2013, 08:11 PM   #17202
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Originally Posted by marty_uiuc View Post
I don't understand all the fuss about the bolt torque procedure. Why isn't German torque on all 4 bolts good enough, and why does it matter where the slot is?
Torque setting of "handwarm" is likely fine. The importance of where the slot is comes from the fact that there is an 8mm and a 10mm bolt on each clamp. 8mm is specified for 26NM, 10mm for 35NM (from memory, I'm on a trip at the moment).

If you tighten the 8mm first, then the 10mm, you put the higher torque on the 8mm due to the fact that the 35NM are are meant to be set with the upper and lower clamp flush, meaning you put the torque on the bolt, tread, and sold metal connection. Not on the smaller bolt that isn't specified for that value and, more importantly, also not on the handlebar itself.

You can see it as 35NM connects the clamp assembly to the triple tree, 26NM holds the handlebar. And that is only correct if the "slot" is at the smaller bolt and that one is set to 26NM.

I use a torque wrench just to be certain I get the setting right and to get a feeling of "how tight" certain settings are. On the road I don't take the torque wrench, but I bring my memory ...
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Old 05-28-2013, 02:00 AM   #17203
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
What the f are you talking about? Seems that you just don't understand it and therefore think it's wrong. What about reading and thinking?

Front (normally big bolts) first. Flush, so that you have solid contact. Then small to spec. Then big to full torque. You'll get to proper spec on both. If not you're doing it wrong.
No mate I read just fine. The problem is your memory. Here's what you wrote originally and you say to torque the 8mm bolt. NOT a slight torque as you changed it to later.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cug View Post
An install note:

1) Take off handlebar.
2) Put risers in
3) Tighten 10mm bolts so that they are installed flush
4) Tighten and torque 8mm (I did that through the opening of the risers) to 26NM
5) Now torque 10mm bolts to 35NM

If you do it the other way around you torque the "open slot" of the clamp to 35NM and that one is supposed to have only 26NM. So, be careful about the order when you install them.
Anyway, as I said, do what you want. It's not my handlebars that are going to fall off.
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:48 AM   #17204
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Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
No mate I read just fine. The problem is your memory. Here's what you wrote originally and you say to torque the 8mm bolt. NOT a slight torque as you changed it to later.
"A slight torque" or a "tighten the front to be flush" is just about the same thing.

Seems you're still not following (reading, thinking, understanding?) what I said. But so what. I don't care about how you tighten your handlebars.

cug screwed with this post 05-28-2013 at 05:38 PM Reason: Typo
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Old 05-28-2013, 05:38 PM   #17205
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FYI: Left front rotor warped

Right now I'm on a trip through the Western states (California, Nevada, Utah, Arizona, maybe we put a foot into New Mexico and Colorado).

When we were crossing Death Valley (basically at the gas station in Furnace Creek) I noticed a strange grinding noise and also that braking at slow speed was "bumpy". Found out that the left side front rotor is warped enough that the ABS sensor was grinding against the ABS ring on the rotor ...

As we were just 600 miles into our 3.5k miles vacation trip, we decided to press on and had to figure out a preliminary solution. I didn't have anything with me to use, but was actually quite lucky: the bolt holding the ABS sensor bracket has a washer. It's supposed to go: fork leg - bracket - washer - bolt. I moved the washer between fork and bracket, that created enough distance so that the sensor wasn't grinding anymore. Braking is still a little bumpy at slow speed but not to the point that it's a risk. ABS is working fine (tested).

Unfortunately the rotor is ~$250 ... Not happy.

Has anybody seen good aftermarket brake disks for the Tiger 800?
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