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Old 06-17-2013, 09:54 PM   #17341
dwoodward
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Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
Bueller - I think if you compare your spark plugs to new ones you will find that the center electrode will be visibly worn as mine were.

OEM-quality spark plugs are cheap, and you may not be able to visibly detect functional issues. I once found one that would spark fine in open air, but not under compression at TDC.

Sort of like doing a timing belt on a car- most likely you have to muck with the water pump anyway, might as well replace it while you're there, and hey, crank main seals are cheap and you're right there- why would you not replace it?
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:42 PM   #17342
browneye
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Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
Found this today while changing tires. It's the left hand axle spacer for the rear tire. The grooves were cut almost 3/4 way around it. Everything else looked fine.

Is this going to be an issue? What would have caused this? The bike is an 800XC with 4,500 miles....oh, and a pair of brand new Karoo 3's.



Yeah, dirt in the seals. Clean and re-grease, turn the spacer around.

Anxious to hear abou the karoo 3's. They are a GREAT looking tire. Hopefully a LOT better than the karoo 2's - now those were total POS.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:31 AM   #17343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
Found this today while changing tires. It's the left hand axle spacer for the rear tire. The grooves were cut almost 3/4 way around it. Everything else looked fine.

Is this going to be an issue? What would have caused this? The bike is an 800XC with 4,500 miles....oh, and a pair of brand new Karoo 3's.


Yep had the same thing happen to me, replace the seal and will just have to check and clean more often when riding dirt!
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:37 AM   #17344
blacktiger
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Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
Is this going to be an issue? What would have caused this?

What causes this is soft alloy and dirt. IMO Triumph should have taken the time to have them heat treated to harden them.
Only way to stop this, as far as I can see, is get some made of a harder material. Or, as I might do, is buy a new set and get them Chrome plated..........for those that are unaware, Chrome is very hard.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:41 AM   #17345
blacktiger
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Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post

OEM-quality spark plugs are cheap, and you may not be able to visibly detect functional issues. I once found one that would spark fine in open air, but not under compression at TDC.

Sort of like doing a timing belt on a car- most likely you have to muck with the water pump anyway, might as well replace it while you're there, and hey, crank main seals are cheap and you're right there- why would you not replace it?
I completely agree with this. I bought some Irridium plugs for my 955 but after 12K I hadn't noticed any difference in how the bike ran and I wasn't that confident about them going another 12K so I replaced them with new standard NGKs. For the sake of a £Tenner£ it just gives peace of mind.
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Old 06-18-2013, 12:52 AM   #17346
blacktiger
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Originally Posted by Flyboy52219 View Post
This weekend I took my Tiger into the dealer for the turn signal recall. While waiting I took their Explorer demo (non-XC) for a nice long demo ride. Beautiful bike...I was worried it might give me an itch to trade in. Before I post any observations, curious how many others have had an opportunity to compare the two. I know some have traded up to the Explorer, any others who have riden both? Reactions?
I've ridden the Explorer. IMO it's a good bike with great power. Handles and steers well. The standard screen works better than their taller one.
Whilst it can do dirt roads quite well, it is, however, just too heavy to do any half serious trails riding. I think in any sort of nadgery and/or rocky terrain it'll be taking plenty of naps. A bit like the big BMWs do. The trouble with the Explorer compared to the Boxer twins is that it'll lay down all the way, rather than being propped up by cylinders poking out the side. Then you've got 270+ Kgs to pick up from a horizontal position.
I would imagine, if you want a bike for two-up touring that can do rough roads it's one of the best tools on the market.
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Old 06-18-2013, 03:11 AM   #17347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwoodward View Post

OEM-quality spark plugs are cheap, and you may not be able to visibly detect functional issues. I once found one that would spark fine in open air, but not under compression at TDC.

Sort of like doing a timing belt on a car- most likely you have to muck with the water pump anyway, might as well replace it while you're there, and hey, crank main seals are cheap and you're right there- why would you not replace it?
When a customer was paying me 5 hours of labor to replace a timing belt I always recommended a set of front crank and cam seals. This was because it was a labor intensive job, and I couldn't "see" the hardness of the seal material or the condition of the seal lip without removing the seal, which of course destroys it.

Things are a little different with a spark plug. I can see the condition of the electrodes. I can measure the gap and determine the amount of wear already incurred. I can (and did) re-gap them to spec. NGK plugs have a legendary reputation anyway. And lastly, if I'm wrong and start having issues I can replace all of the spark plugs in less than a half hour in a parking lot with a 5mm Allen, a 14mm socket, and a 16mm socket & ratchet. Practically any auto parts store in any city will sell me the plugs at half of the cost from Triumph and loan me the tools to do it.

I did my 12k for less than $90 including a gallon of amsoil synthetic 10 w 40, a triumph factory air filter, and a Triumph factory oil filter. Or I could have spent $200 to get the complete service kit from triumph, dealer oil, and dealer plugs, and had a cam cover that doesn't leak just like the gasket I re-used, and spark plugs that spark just like the ones I re-used, and had that oh so good feeling of throwing parts in a landfill that were still within service limits.

Do I recommend you do the same? Not necessarily, unless you know how to truly determine when something should be replaced. I know a thing or two about engines and felt comfortable making the decision. As always, ymmv.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:41 AM   #17348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy52219 View Post
This weekend I took my Tiger into the dealer for the turn signal recall. While waiting I took their Explorer demo (non-XC) for a nice long demo ride. Beautiful bike...I was worried it might give me an itch to trade in. Before I post any observations, curious how many others have had an opportunity to compare the two. I know some have traded up to the Explorer, any others who have riden both? Reactions?
When I was last into my dealer they had a just-uncrated Explorer XC in matt green. Would have traded up that day if I could have swung the $$. I financed mine and a trade in woudn't pay off the note yet. Probably could be close to sell outright, but the 800 is such a great bike it's not a big gain for me. I don't 'trail ride' my 800 so the bigger one would just be more of the same great features the 800 has.

I really did like the bigger brother. It comes with all kinds of neat doo-dads, really like the cruise and the comfy seat, and the driveshaft. Ah well, maybe in a couple of years.
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Old 06-18-2013, 10:41 AM   #17349
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
I'm not so certain whether I like the latest map. I could be imagining it but it seems like it has added some slight surging running at lower revs (<3k rpm) which is annoying in city traffic.

..
FWIW, I installed the latest map last week and I haven't noticed any surging. After the bottom engine mount shimming and running a bottle of techron through my bike I can say it's running as smooth as ever.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:51 PM   #17350
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Originally Posted by rrr70 View Post
Not really. OE rear mudguard not available in US. I found on in AU and places the order on Saturday. Dealer there contacted me Sunday and said that shipping will be over $60.
So, I'll have to settle for the one that I can get there. Hence the reason behind my question.
My experience is different: I ordered the OEM rear fender extender from a dealer in Colorado, $29, no shipping charge. Part number and description is in the linked post.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:52 PM   #17351
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Same here Cug, smoothest yet. Latest map and tightened up the motor mount shim and it's butter smooth.

Since balancing my tires the front end bounce went away too. Was only out an ounce. That was enough to feel it at 30 or so, and probably a vibration at 80. Rear was out an ounce too. Bike is on rails now.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:35 PM   #17352
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Originally Posted by browneye View Post
Same here Cug, smoothest yet. Latest map and tightened up the motor mount shim and it's butter smooth.
Yeah - my bike is very smooth, no question about it. But smooth is also very subjective as I pointed out somewhere else. My wife thinks the Tiger is incredibly smooth everywhere, she has a 650 thumper. I think the Tiger is fairly smooth everywhere, but I have owned Honda V-Fours (VFR, ST1100) and twin cylinder engines. Some people might think it's just slightly rough - when they compare to a Goldwing or a K1600 six cylinder.

And the bounce on mine never had anything to do with tires or wheels. It was suspension and nothing but suspension.
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:49 PM   #17353
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That motor mount shim is what blows me away. Would never have found that myself.

Thanks Bueller!!
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:11 PM   #17354
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Interesting Cug,
I just had mine in a few weeks ago for the 12K service and it came back buttery smooth. Smoother than new.
They put tune #020650 and, thankfully, built a little play back into the throttle cable (when it went in for the first check up, the goofball mech tightened up the cable so much that smooth became a teeny bit surgey - I was too tied up with other stuff to find the happy spot and just lived with it, which is stupid since now that it's dialed, I realize I rode 11.5K with it un-dialed).
I don't think anyone did anything with my motor mounts, but man, the bike is running like a champ.

Best. Bike. Ever.


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Old 06-18-2013, 09:37 PM   #17355
Oshiat
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Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Some of you who are handy with a wrench and/or those of you who are experiencing vibration in your T800's might want to read my post in the Tiger 800 problems thread:

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost....&postcount=353
Checked this on my bike tonight, the adjustable shim was not touching the motor either. Adjusted it and re-torqued the bolt, test ride tomorrow.
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