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Old 06-11-2013, 10:47 PM   #17371
cug
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Joined: May 2009
Location: Sunny California
Oddometer: 4,710
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrr70 View Post
Swapped stock suspension links for +15mm ones and dropped fork tubes to be flash in triple clamps. Feels much better now! Won't be hitting side stand anymore.
Good decision. It helps with cornering clearance and made the steering a bit more stable for me - bike didn't want to go towards the outside of the curve anymore.
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Old 06-12-2013, 06:05 AM   #17372
rrr70
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Location: Comcord
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nortonrocks77 View Post
Is that on the roadie?
Yep
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:46 PM   #17373
marloweluke
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Joined: Jan 2011
Location: East Kootenay
Oddometer: 149
Quote:
Originally Posted by rrr70 View Post
Swapped stock suspension links for +15mm ones and dropped fork tubes to be flash in triple clamps. Feels much better now! Won't be hitting side stand anymore.
If you still hit the side stand you can get some 9mm spacers made up and with some longer bolts move the side stand assembly on the inside of the frame. That cured it for me. There is a link with some pics on the Triumph Tiger 800 forum somewhere.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:15 AM   #17374
BlackBeast
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Ontario, CANADA
Oddometer: 916
Thought that it was about time I posted up a pic of the Tiger.

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Old 06-14-2013, 09:09 PM   #17375
Bueller
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Hide Away Hills, Ohio
Oddometer: 17,057
I started on the 12,000 mile service on my 2012 T800 tonight. It has seen minimal off pavement use, but has seen mostly a combination of commuting, touring, and some aggressive street riding. Based on that, my findings are as follows:

1) Air filter - it is called for at this mileage. Glad I decided to buy one. I wouldn't want to run it to 24,000 miles.

2) Valves - glad I decided to check them. The exhaust valve clearance specs are .325mm to .375mm. Converted to inches that is roughly .013" to .015". In fact, .015" is ever so slightly larger than the maximum, which is really .01476378". I can fit a .015" feeler gauge under a couple of the exhaust cam lobes with some force, which tells me these valves are on the edge of being too loose. If I really try to force it I can get a .016 feeler gauge under one lobe, but I believe I forced it hard enough to start opening the valve a hair. If I really wanted to make it perfect I would measure the shims and buy the replacements .025 mm smaller (.001") to get the valve clearance into the middle of the spec range, but I don't see the point. A little loose isn't going to hurt anything, so why hassle with it? All intake valves were in spec. The intake valves have a wider clearance range (.004" - .008"), so I'm not surprised by this.

By the way, apparently you are supposed to either remove the throttle cable bracket or move the throttle bodies back to remove the valve cover. I was able to simply push down on the throttle bodies and deflect them a bit to work the cover out of the right side. It took all of an hour to remove all of the trim, gas tank, air box, valve cover, and check all valve clearances. I estimate another half hour to reassemble tomorrow, though I won't do that immediately since I still have other parts of the service to complete.

3) Throttle Body Sync - I know the manual says to do this electronically, and I have the software & cable to do so. But just for fun I'm going to see if there are fittings to hook up a Morgan carb tune and see how close the electronic readings are to actual vacuum measurements.

4) Spark plugs - The service manual says to replace at this mileage. After inspecting them I see no point in replacement and will reinstall them.

5) Valve cover gasket - Likewise. I will reuse the old one.

6) Coolant and brake fluid - I will replace as indicated

7) Steering head bearings and shock linkage - I will grease as suggested.

8) Drive chain guide - this piece is supposed to be replaced every 6,000 miles. That would be a complete waste of money. I expect it to last about as long as I expect the chain and sprockets to last, and intend to replace all items at the same time.

So far there is nothing out of the ordinary. This bike continues to impress.
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Bueller screwed with this post 06-14-2013 at 09:14 PM
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Old 06-15-2013, 04:01 AM   #17376
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Location: Fairfield County, CT
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^^ great service report, thanks!
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Old 06-15-2013, 05:02 AM   #17377
jimjim
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: oHIo
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Bueller - I think if you compare your spark plugs to new ones you will find that the center electrode will be visibly worn as mine were.



My air filter after 12K miles, mostly street, some gravel.
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:24 AM   #17378
Bueller
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Location: Hide Away Hills, Ohio
Oddometer: 17,057
I was able to see the wear, I just don't think they are worn enough to warrant replacement. Not that it's a big deal anyway. Rather than pay the $9.99 asking price from triumph, if I wanted to replace them my local autozone two miles up the street has that exact plug in stock for something like $5.39 each.
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:34 AM   #17379
KildareMan
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: County Kildare, Ireland
Oddometer: 596
Iridium's. 18 months and going strong.

Sent from my Tiger 800
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Old 06-15-2013, 06:42 AM   #17380
eram310
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Great report and something to consider to those of us who are contemplating the 12K mark service.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
I started on the 12,000 mile service on my 2012 T800 tonight. It has seen minimal off pavement use, but has seen mostly a combination of commuting, touring, and some aggressive street riding. Based on that, my findings are as follows:

1) Air filter - it is called for at this mileage. Glad I decided to buy one. I wouldn't want to run it to 24,000 miles.

2) Valves - glad I decided to check them. The exhaust valve clearance specs are .325mm to .375mm. Converted to inches that is roughly .013" to .015". In fact, .015" is ever so slightly larger than the maximum, which is really .01476378". I can fit a .015" feeler gauge under a couple of the exhaust cam lobes with some force, which tells me these valves are on the edge of being too loose. If I really try to force it I can get a .016 feeler gauge under one lobe, but I believe I forced it hard enough to start opening the valve a hair. If I really wanted to make it perfect I would measure the shims and buy the replacements .025 mm smaller (.001") to get the valve clearance into the middle of the spec range, but I don't see the point. A little loose isn't going to hurt anything, so why hassle with it? All intake valves were in spec. The intake valves have a wider clearance range (.004" - .008"), so I'm not surprised by this.

By the way, apparently you are supposed to either remove the throttle cable bracket or move the throttle bodies back to remove the valve cover. I was able to simply push down on the throttle bodies and deflect them a bit to work the cover out of the right side. It took all of an hour to remove all of the trim, gas tank, air box, valve cover, and check all valve clearances. I estimate another half hour to reassemble tomorrow, though I won't do that immediately since I still have other parts of the service to complete.

3) Throttle Body Sync - I know the manual says to do this electronically, and I have the software & cable to do so. But just for fun I'm going to see if there are fittings to hook up a Morgan carb tune and see how close the electronic readings are to actual vacuum measurements.

4) Spark plugs - The service manual says to replace at this mileage. After inspecting them I see no point in replacement and will reinstall them.

5) Valve cover gasket - Likewise. I will reuse the old one.

6) Coolant and brake fluid - I will replace as indicated

7) Steering head bearings and shock linkage - I will grease as suggested.

8) Drive chain guide - this piece is supposed to be replaced every 6,000 miles. That would be a complete waste of money. I expect it to last about as long as I expect the chain and sprockets to last, and intend to replace all items at the same time.

So far there is nothing out of the ordinary. This bike continues to impress.
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Old 06-15-2013, 07:45 AM   #17381
advtenn
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Joined: Mar 2009
Location: East TN.
Oddometer: 1,345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
I started on the 12,000 mile service on my 2012 T800 tonight. It has seen minimal off pavement use, but has seen mostly a combination of commuting, touring, and some aggressive street riding. Based on that, my findings are as follows:

1) Air filter - it is called for at this mileage. Glad I decided to buy one. I wouldn't want to run it to 24,000 miles.

2) Valves - glad I decided to check them. The exhaust valve clearance specs are .325mm to .375mm. Converted to inches that is roughly .013" to .015". In fact, .015" is ever so slightly larger than the maximum, which is really .01476378". I can fit a .015" feeler gauge under a couple of the exhaust cam lobes with some force, which tells me these valves are on the edge of being too loose. If I really try to force it I can get a .016 feeler gauge under one lobe, but I believe I forced it hard enough to start opening the valve a hair. If I really wanted to make it perfect I would measure the shims and buy the replacements .025 mm smaller (.001") to get the valve clearance into the middle of the spec range, but I don't see the point. A little loose isn't going to hurt anything, so why hassle with it? All intake valves were in spec. The intake valves have a wider clearance range (.004" - .008"), so I'm not surprised by this.

By the way, apparently you are supposed to either remove the throttle cable bracket or move the throttle bodies back to remove the valve cover. I was able to simply push down on the throttle bodies and deflect them a bit to work the cover out of the right side. It took all of an hour to remove all of the trim, gas tank, air box, valve cover, and check all valve clearances. I estimate another half hour to reassemble tomorrow, though I won't do that immediately since I still have other parts of the service to complete.

3) Throttle Body Sync - I know the manual says to do this electronically, and I have the software & cable to do so. But just for fun I'm going to see if there are fittings to hook up a Morgan carb tune and see how close the electronic readings are to actual vacuum measurements.

4) Spark plugs - The service manual says to replace at this mileage. After inspecting them I see no point in replacement and will reinstall them.

5) Valve cover gasket - Likewise. I will reuse the old one.

6) Coolant and brake fluid - I will replace as indicated

7) Steering head bearings and shock linkage - I will grease as suggested.

8) Drive chain guide - this piece is supposed to be replaced every 6,000 miles. That would be a complete waste of money. I expect it to last about as long as I expect the chain and sprockets to last, and intend to replace all items at the same time.

So far there is nothing out of the ordinary. This bike continues to impress.

Did you notice any carbon build up on the valves? As I looked down through the butterflys when I changed the air filter, I noticed some carbon on the valves. I wonder how much is too much?
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #17382
elan
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Gainesville, FL
Oddometer: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post

By the way, apparently you are supposed to either remove the throttle cable bracket or move the throttle bodies back to remove the valve cover.
I noticed that in the manual as well. I ended up just taking the throttle cable bracket off using a long philips screwdriver. Worked a treat. Just be careful not to drop the screws.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:33 PM   #17383
Nortonrocks77
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Joined: Apr 2013
Location: Indianapolis
Oddometer: 21
Got my Tiger

I am back from my trip to Chattanooga with my new 2013 Tiger. The end up knocking another $400 off my bike because they didn't tell me it wasn't fully financed. So I paid $1000 under MSRP for my new/used Tiger. Good to be back in Indianapolis. https://www.facebook.com/permalink.p...bstory_index=0
Here is a pic.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:04 PM   #17384
Bueller
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Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Hide Away Hills, Ohio
Oddometer: 17,057
Quote:
Originally Posted by advtenn View Post
Did you notice any carbon build up on the valves? As I looked down through the butterflys when I changed the air filter, I noticed some carbon on the valves. I wonder how much is too much?
There is some minor accumulation that I'm sure could be cleaned up by using some high quality fuel. For instance, shell nitrogen enriched fuels are pretty reputable for cleaning away deposits over time, whereas "grocery store gas" without a recognized name brand refiner probably contributes to deposits. I should start using shell for a while and see if it gets better over time, but honestly I'm just not worried about it.
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:50 PM   #17385
Charrito
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Joined: Apr 2009
Location: Dallas, TX
Oddometer: 84
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWeier View Post
Does anyone on hear have a sargent saddle for their Tiger 800? I just bought the low version and have two issues.

1. I can't install the riders seat when both bars under the seat are set to low. The issue is that I can't get both the front and rear bars under the lips at the same time. I've verified that any other bar combination (low, high or high, low) work.

2. The passengers seat latch pin doesn't latch. I've tried pushing down (and almost tipped the bike) and I've verified that nothing is in the way.

Any ideas, thoughts or experiences with this situation and saddle?

Thanks!

Yes...#1 read the instructions. After you're done with that, change the rubber bumpers under the seat.

#2, don't push, tap until you hear the click.
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