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Old 07-16-2013, 07:42 PM   #17851
Bueller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich B View Post
Narrower....that is it

And if I can find a spare set of bars to mangle at my own liesure, I will have a set of narrower bars
Narrower is tough to accomplish. I have not found a narrower set of bars out of the box. The stock T800 Roadie bars measure 30" with the internal bar ends installed - or more simply put, 30" from grip end to grip end (the grips extend past the ends of the bars and over the bar inserts). If you do not have heated grips and if you were to remove the internal bar ends, you could move the grips in about 1 & 1/8" on the left side, and 1 & 5/8" on the right side, if memory serves. That's right, the right side bar insert is longer than the left. This of course assumes there is enough total length of the grip area of the handlebars (you need approximately 185mm of grip area to have enough room to mount everything), you are willing to purchase an aftermarket bar insert, you don't run into clearance issues between the handlebar and master cylinder or handlebar and clutch switch, and are willing to drill new holes in the bars for the switch housing locating pins. Whether or not you have enough clearance between the master cylinder/clutch switch is dependent on the angle you tilt the bars. There's no easy way to explain this - you just need to loosen everything and start moving it around on the bars to see what I mean. The clearance issues usually come into play as you rotate the bars back towards the rider, and then adjust the clutch perch and master cylinder on the bar to the correct position.

Every aftermarket handlebar I looked at was at least 30" wide, which is 2" more than the stock bars. Many were up to 32" wide. Finding additional sweep is not difficult, and in fact handlebars with more sweep generally have a lower probability of clearance issues as I described above. However, fitting handlebars seems to require enough geometry knowledge to stump Pythagoras, and to further complicate things you will find that different manufacturers measure things differently. So you can't always directly compare measurements, but perhaps this will help:

Fly Racing tapered Handlebar chart

Pro Taper Contour handlebar chart

I currently have the Pro Taper ATV bend "Raptor" installed. I haven't spent enough time on the bike to really comment on comfort, but plan to on Thursday.

Best of luck in your pursuit. Be sure to post the bars you use and some photos.
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:33 PM   #17852
rrr70
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While its customary for motorcycle riders to take "ductail" off their bikes, I'm putting one on mine.
Tired of crap covering top case and back of my helmet


And of course there wouldn't be installation without "custom" fabrication.



As you can see I'm "will it work? Yeah. Then fuck it" kinda guy.
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:32 AM   #17853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrr70 View Post
While its customary for motorcycle riders to take "ductail" off their bikes, I'm putting one on mine.
Tired of crap covering top case and back of my helmet
Yeah I did the same, put that big ugly thing back on. But it's amazing how much that stops

See by this photo
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Old 07-17-2013, 07:52 AM   #17854
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bueller View Post
Narrower is tough to accomplish. I have not found a narrower set of bars out of the box. The stock T800 Roadie bars measure 30" with the internal bar ends installed - or more simply put, 30" from grip end to grip end (the grips extend past the ends of the bars and over the bar inserts). If you do not have heated grips and if you were to remove the internal bar ends, you could move the grips in about 1 & 1/8" on the left side, and 1 & 5/8" on the right side, if memory serves. That's right, the right side bar insert is longer than the left. This of course assumes there is enough total length of the grip area of the handlebars (you need approximately 185mm of grip area to have enough room to mount everything), you are willing to purchase an aftermarket bar insert, you don't run into clearance issues between the handlebar and master cylinder or handlebar and clutch switch, and are willing to drill new holes in the bars for the switch housing locating pins. Whether or not you have enough clearance between the master cylinder/clutch switch is dependent on the angle you tilt the bars. There's no easy way to explain this - you just need to loosen everything and start moving it around on the bars to see what I mean. The clearance issues usually come into play as you rotate the bars back towards the rider, and then adjust the clutch perch and master cylinder on the bar to the correct position.

Every aftermarket handlebar I looked at was at least 30" wide, which is 2" more than the stock bars. Many were up to 32" wide. Finding additional sweep is not difficult, and in fact handlebars with more sweep generally have a lower probability of clearance issues as I described above. However, fitting handlebars seems to require enough geometry knowledge to stump Pythagoras, and to further complicate things you will find that different manufacturers measure things differently. So you can't always directly compare measurements, but perhaps this will help:

Fly Racing tapered Handlebar chart

Pro Taper Contour handlebar chart

I currently have the Pro Taper ATV bend "Raptor" installed. I haven't spent enough time on the bike to really comment on comfort, but plan to on Thursday.

Best of luck in your pursuit. Be sure to post the bars you use and some photos.
For anyone else looking into doing a handlebar swap, for the sake of reference, I contacted Neken to find the XC handlebars dimensions and they have 111 mm rise and 65.5 mm sweep.

Edit: It seems like they must have different criteria for measuring, because their numbers seem to have a much higher rise and sweep than the aftermarket options.
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Old 07-17-2013, 05:13 PM   #17855
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Just figured out last night that I bent my radiator bracket a bit too in that off I had as I was washing the bike and looking at it from the front and the radiator and shrouds were looking shifted to one side. Sure enough the right side bracket was bent in a little bit. I'll have to take off all the plastics and bend it back this weekend. It's not a major thing, but it is noticeable if you're looking for it.









Hopefully this heat wave is over by then!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:09 PM   #17856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerMarker View Post
Just figured out last night that I bent my radiator bracket a bit too in that off I had as I was washing the bike and looking at it from the front and the radiator and shrouds were looking shifted to one side. Sure enough the right side bracket was bent in a little bit. I'll have to take off all the plastics and bend it back this weekend. It's not a major thing, but it is noticeable if you're looking for it.

Hopefully this heat wave is over by then!
Have a look at your fan as well. My fan housing was warped, enough to stop the fan from turning and over heated the bike on a dual sport ride. Wasn't a big deal for the rest of the ride, just made sure the fan was in the "free" position whenever I stopped. Triumph warrantied the fan and ended up replacing the rad due to a pin hole leak. I had a minor low speed crash in the sand but nothing to cause that and they had no problems warranting it.

bross screwed with this post 07-18-2013 at 11:50 AM
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:06 AM   #17857
bubbabeemer
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Tiger Roadie Handlebars resolved.

I found the answer for me. Installed the Tiger Explorer handlebars part T2041634. They are 2.7 inches wider and swept back about an inch more than stock. The only mod needed was a new hole for the left switch block. You do not have to drill all the way through the bar and risk hitting the heated grip wires. The stock heated grips fit fine no problem. I also installed Rox risers. I like to use a Air Hawk on top of the gel seat with the front seat adjustment on the high position and the back on the low to make the seat more level. The Air Hawk makes the seat height much higher which is why the risers. With the risers you need to install a hex head bolt in the back of the stock bar clamps. With the risers pulled back you cannot get a allen wrench in to tighten it but a 13mm box end will. All the stock cables have enough length. I have a 2011 non ABS model. There is a hose clamp at the bottom of the triple clamp holding the brake line. I removed it and let the hose hang free. On the ABS model this hose routes back under the tank so it may be too short. The heated grip holes are in a different position. Be careful when installing the switch blocks as the fit is tight. The hand guards work fine also.
For the previous 4 years I rode a BMW F800GS which fit perfect. I found the stock Roadie a torture rack. This mod transformed the bike for me. I am 5'10" 160lbs and old.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:46 AM   #17858
Randyincolo
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Time for the first oil change and I always use the Chevron diesel oil but need advice for a filter.
Not picky, just want a filter that meets OEM requirements.
Aftermarket or Triumph brand?

Thoughts on the Wix 51358?

Randyincolo screwed with this post 07-18-2013 at 09:32 AM
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:54 AM   #17859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyincolo View Post
Time for the first oil change and I always use the Chevron diesel oil but need advice for a filter.
Not picky, just want a filter that meets OEM requirements.
Aftermarket or Triumph brand?
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:32 AM   #17860
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Diesel oil?

That would be Delo 400 and it's a good product, but not for extended drain intervals for the Tiger. It's also not as slick as a full synthetic, nor as thermally stable. It is commonly used in the gearbox for dirtbikes, as is Rotella (Shell) and neither has friction modifiers so they are wet-clutch compatible. Still, not what I would use in the triple motor, not in this day and age of technology.

Consider a full group IV base synthetic and change at half the recommended oil change interval (OCI).
Seems to me Castrol is the recommendation, but other good or better products are Motul, Shell, Motorex, Mobil1 (motorcycle specific) as well as others, and my favorite - Amsoil 4-stroke MC Oil which is a true fully-synthetic base. It is also wet-clutch compatible. I notice slicker shifting after an oil change.

When I do a half OCI I skip the filter - replace at the recommended interval. This keeps fresh oil in the sump and costs just a shade more than a blackstone analysis.

Delo 400? Nawwww.
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:43 AM   #17861
Randyincolo
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Been using Delo 400 for decades in everything from a Gold Wing to a FZ1 to a Kawasaki Ninja 600 as well as my current Concours 1400. Love the oil.

But I realize oil choice is a very debatable issue so use what makes you happy:)

How about the Wix filter?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #17862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyincolo View Post
Time for the first oil change and I always use the Chevron diesel oil but need advice for a filter.
Not picky, just want a filter that meets OEM requirements.
Aftermarket or Triumph brand?

Thoughts on the Wix 51358?

The WIX 51358 is a motorcycle specific filter (lower bypass psi). It's a USA made filter that from my research was one of the better filters on the market. This is the filter supplied to NAPA as a NAPA Gold filter. I felt it better than OEM. I bought a 12 pack on ebay a year or so ago for $100 shipped. I've used this filter on a couple of other bikes as well.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:09 AM   #17863
ducnut
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyincolo View Post
Time for the first oil change and I always use the Chevron diesel oil but need advice for a filter.
Not picky, just want a filter that meets OEM requirements.
Aftermarket or Triumph brand?

Thoughts on the Wix 51358?
A ton of info here.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:16 AM   #17864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by browneye View Post
That would be Delo 400 and it's a good product, but not for extended drain intervals for the Tiger. It's also not as slick as a full synthetic, nor as thermally stable. It is commonly used in the gearbox for dirtbikes, as is Rotella (Shell) and neither has friction modifiers so they are wet-clutch compatible. Still, not what I would use in the triple motor, not in this day and age of technology.

Consider a full group IV base synthetic and change at half the recommended oil change interval (OCI).
Seems to me Castrol is the recommendation, but other good or better products are Motul, Shell, Motorex, Mobil1 (motorcycle specific) as well as others, and my favorite - Amsoil 4-stroke MC Oil which is a true fully-synthetic base. It is also wet-clutch compatible. I notice slicker shifting after an oil change.

When I do a half OCI I skip the filter - replace at the recommended interval. This keeps fresh oil in the sump and costs just a shade more than a blackstone analysis.

Delo 400? Nawwww.
Why in the world you would recommend using a top quality group IV full synthetic and only running it for half the manufacturer's recommended drain interval? What a waste of money.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyincolo View Post
Time for the first oil change and I always use the Chevron diesel oil but need advice for a filter.
Not picky, just want a filter that meets OEM requirements.
Aftermarket or Triumph brand?

Thoughts on the Wix 51358?
Just swing by the dealer (or use an online supplier of OE parts) and pick up an OE filter. That way you don't have to worry about if the after market filter you have selected meets the OE specification or not.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:27 AM   #17865
TigerMarker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Have a look at your fan as well. My fan housing was warped, enough to stop the fan from turning and over heated the bike on a dual sport ride. Wasn't a big deal for the rest of the ride, just made sure the fan was in the "free" position whenever I stopped. Triumph warrantied the fan and ended up replacing the rad due to a pin hole leak. I had a minor low speed crash in the sand but nothing to cause that and they had n problems warranting it.
I'll do that. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
The WIX 51358 is a motorcycle specific filter (lower bypass psi). It's a USA made filter that from my research was one of the better filters on the market. This is the filter supplied to NAPA as a NAPA Gold filter. I felt it better than OEM. I bought a 12 pack on ebay a year or so ago for $100 shipped. I've used this filter on a couple of other bikes as well.
WIX is the best filter on the market if you are going aftermarket. I don't trust anything else besides them and OE.
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