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Old 09-13-2013, 01:22 AM   #18376
blacktiger
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Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
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Originally Posted by jtmajors View Post
Well bought a new 12 800xc today! Loving it and can't wait to get past the ole break in period! Looking for the top farkles to do first!
Welcome to the mad house.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:08 AM   #18377
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Originally Posted by jtmajors View Post
Well bought a new 12 800xc today! Loving it and can't wait to get past the ole break in period! Looking for the top farkles to do first!
Awesome! We can help you with all your farkling needs.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=704559

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=840096

Step 1: CRASH BARS! Non-OEM. 2-piece or tall ones like Holan or Happy Trails.

http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...ger+crash+bars

Step 2: Tires!

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=908758

Step 3: Proper hand guards (Acerbis or Barkbusters)

Step 4: ???
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:08 AM   #18378
Kawidad
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
Unfortunately, the adventure bike market has more people that are willing to accept cheap components than other categories.
Nah, that's the cruiser market.

We just wank about it more.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:13 AM   #18379
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Originally Posted by pilot3 View Post
I just finished a RaceTech upgrade to my Roadie forks and went TR-119 in the rear. There is no question in my mind that the stock forks have too much compression and minimal damping. Not balanced at all. I posted the rebuild.

I only had some slight bouncing before and it is completely smooth now. I attribute it to more controlled compression and damping that works. I can't weigh in on everyone else's experiences but I cannot stress enough how important it is to align the forks. It makes wear differences within the fork if they are not aligned.
I read that write up, very good. Appreciate you taking the time to do all that. I have never taken suspension apart to that extent before so I am really nervous about screwing something up and having it cost a lot more than it should. I am also thinking that if I am going to do something this major, then I would want the comp and rebound adjustment options. I thought Racetech had a drop in option for that, but I haven't seen it for the XC.
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:17 AM   #18380
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Originally Posted by cory1848 View Post
I read that write up, very good. Appreciate you taking the time to do all that. I have never taken suspension apart to that extent before so I am really nervous about screwing something up and having it cost a lot more than it should. I am also thinking that if I am going to do something this major, then I would want the comp and rebound adjustment options. I thought Racetech had a drop in option for that, but I haven't seen it for the XC.
Contact Terry at Race Tech, he'll set you straight.
Talked to him for about 20 minutes on Monday to help me figure out what I really wanted
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:29 AM   #18381
btao
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Originally Posted by boinoodle View Post
Contact Terry at Race Tech, he'll set you straight.
Talked to him for about 20 minutes on Monday to help me figure out what I really wanted
I agree, I'd really want to add adjustability to a rebuild/upgrade. Very jealous of KTM. I forgot the Inmate that had the 990 ADV at the Dam that time, but he had two big ol adjuster knobs up at the top crown for adjustment.
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Old 09-13-2013, 09:04 AM   #18382
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Originally Posted by Kawidad View Post
Nah, that's the cruiser market.
Okay, we are a close second ...
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Old 09-13-2013, 11:01 AM   #18383
Mtneer
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These bikes come with the cheapest suspension that Triumph can get away with, keeps the profit margin higher for them. How does a Tiger with a steel frame and almost no suspension adjustment cost more than Street Triple R or Daytona. Plus these bike have minimal body work. I just got mine, but I will upgrade the suspension, it is one area where the bike is lacking the most, AK 20's and shock are pricey but once you have ridden on a well set up bike, you see that money is well spent. Mine has some bounce, never noticed it when I demoed it new, but the bike had 800 miles on it and the rear tire had a bit of a flat spot, so I figure some of it is the tires and wear on them. Also, when you really rail in to a turn, it helps to trail the brakes till you transition back to open the throttle or it seems the front end rebounds too quickly. The seat could use some better foam, but all in all I'm pretty happy with the comfort level and versatility the bike provides, like standard bikes of old.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:20 PM   #18384
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Originally Posted by Mtneer View Post
These bikes come with the cheapest suspension that Triumph can get away with,
I disagree. Given the price of the bike the suspension is an excellent compromise. I find it comfortable on long runs, capable in some serious off-road and fine on the twisties.

I agree that a suspension upgrade will improve the bike, no question. It's on my todo list.

BUT compared to other standard setups the Tiger is a good compromise. (Just don't look at the KTM )
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #18385
helotaxi
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Originally Posted by btao View Post
Step 3: Proper hand guards (Acerbis or Barkbusters)
For a bike this size Highway Dirtbikes is the only way to go for handguards.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:50 PM   #18386
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Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
For a bike this size Highway Dirtbikes is the only way to go for handguards.
Barkbuster Storm have done exactly what they were supposed to do whenever I needed them doing something.
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Old 09-13-2013, 05:57 PM   #18387
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Originally Posted by cug View Post
Barkbuster Storm have done exactly what they were supposed to do whenever I needed them doing something.
Good for you. The HDB are still a better design and better made. Significantly stronger and no chance that they will rotate on the bar and leave your levers exposed.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:02 PM   #18388
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Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Good for you. The HDB are still a better design and better made. Significantly stronger and no chance that they will rotate on the bar and leave your levers exposed.
But you need massive risers and a new handle bar clamp for them. Some people prefer not to get that. Also the Barkbuster Storm have better hand coverage from the elements as it looks.

I would not say one or the other is better or worse. They both have their benefits.
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Old 09-14-2013, 07:57 AM   #18389
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Could someone please explain why there needs to been tension on the cam chain tensioner blade during removal of cam chain tensioner?

I'm in the middle of a valve adjustment and this step has me more than a little confused. Is it just to make removal of the CCT easier? It doesn't seem to be there to help keep things timed since it needs to be removed anyway to get the the cams out.

Also, the two 35mm bolts in the right hand crank cover...why do they need to be replaced? I don't understand anything about this. First, they're longer than the others for no obvious reason. Secondly, they turned out a bit harder than the others, also for no obvious reasons. Finally, the manual says to discard them. What the heck is going on with these two bolts?



BTW, some of you guys are nuts. The suspension on the XC is among the finest in the world and anyone that doesn't think so should go put 24,000 miles on a DR650.
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:28 AM   #18390
ducnut
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Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
Could someone please explain why there needs to been tension on the cam chain tensioner blade during removal of cam chain tensioner?

I'm in the middle of a valve adjustment and this step has me more than a little confused. Is it just to make removal of the CCT easier? It doesn't seem to be there to help keep things timed since it needs to be removed anyway to get the the cams out.
It keeps the guide in place, as it can drop to the abyss.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seventy One View Post
Also, the two 35mm bolts in the right hand crank cover...why do they need to be replaced? I don't understand anything about this. First, they're longer than the others for no obvious reason. Secondly, they turned out a bit harder than the others, also for no obvious reasons. Finally, the manual says to discard them. What the heck is going on with these two bolts?
SOP. Just reapply some mid-strength threadlock to them and reinstall.

Also, while you're messing around with your torque wrench, be sure to hit all the engine's fasteners. The torque settings are all the same, so long as you're working on same sized bolts. The triple's harmonics seem to have a way of loosening fasteners. My 675 and 1050 have, both, loosened bolts.
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