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Old 10-19-2013, 03:17 PM   #18811
jimjim
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Joined: Feb 2010
Location: oHIo
Oddometer: 1,493
Quote:
Originally Posted by henkew View Post
Doesn't matter how little or much I turn the throttle, makes no difference. It won't fire.

Based on what I have read, I suspect the fuel sensor. Has anyone had one die on them?
When you first turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump?
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:52 PM   #18812
henkew
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Joined: Apr 2011
Location: Lake Stevens, WA
Oddometer: 69
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
When you first turn the key on do you hear the fuel pump?
I hear it making noise, yes. I'm guessing that is the fuel pump?

Can I use an OBD2 reader to check the sensor or do they not work with the tiger?
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Old 10-20-2013, 01:31 AM   #18813
KildareMan
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: County Kildare, Ireland
Oddometer: 593
Download tuneecu and buy a cable. An Obd11 will give you fault codes if you have any. Tuneecu allows you to test while suite.

Sent from my Tiger 800
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:15 AM   #18814
doxbike
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Joined: Nov 2007
Location: Lagunatic Beach
Oddometer: 226
Quote:
Originally Posted by henkew View Post
I know others have experienced this problem. The fuel shows empty (although it isn't empty), the bike turns on, the starter turns over, but it won't fire up. The dang thing just won't start. Some have been able to fix it by wheeling it around, shaking it back and forth (to get the gas moving around) until the gas registers. None of this has worked for me, cannot get it going. I had a message on my phone of a recall, will call back tomorrow. I'm hoping it has something to do with this.

Anyone else seen this or found a solution?
Some on the Tiger UK forum have reported an immobilizer problem. I don't know if it will still crank with that issue or not. Be sure second key is nowhere near the one in the ignition. Disconnect the battery for 3 minutes. Try the other key? Good luck. Let us know what you find
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:10 PM   #18815
Cabriolet
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Joined: Jul 2012
Location: Blackpool, England, UK.
Oddometer: 48
Once when I came back to my bike after parking up for a brew, the gear indictor stopped showing 'n' for neutral or any numbers despite changing the lever between neutral/first/second gear, and my starter button would not spin the motor.
It was a simple fix...
I turned the engine kill switch back on. I must have hit it when I parked up or someone pressed it while I was away from my bike.
It could be something as simple as that. it had me most confused for a couple of minutes. I can't remember if the fuel gauge was showing anything though. I did feel stupid once I realised what it was.
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:06 PM   #18816
wanderlost
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Oddometer: 164
warning for roadie owners - seal your rear shock adjuster

After a 6800 mile trip to Alaska this summer my suspension was shot. Having it rebuilt by race tech. The original rear shock is "non rebuildable" according to Triumph and probably only good for about 20K miles of use according to Race Tech. So Triumph seems to expect us to buy a $750 rear shock every 2-3 years.

Race tech is making my rear rebuildable, but in the process he found that the Alaska mud had gotten into the rear preload adjuster shaft and basically wore the plastic and metal bits to dust. So to extend the life on your bike, consider covering the end of yours and preventing water/mud from getting in there and wearing parts out. (I'm thinking a rubber glove finger sealed on with a tight zip tie should work)

Hope this advice saves someone some grief and some cash.

Paul
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Old 10-20-2013, 04:44 PM   #18817
kag
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Joined: May 2012
Location: Kansas
Oddometer: 844
Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderlost View Post
After a 6800 mile trip to Alaska this summer my suspension was shot. Having it rebuilt by race tech. The original rear shock is "non rebuildable" according to Triumph and probably only good for about 20K miles of use according to Race Tech. So Triumph seems to expect us to buy a $750 rear shock every 2-3 years.

Paul

Hopefully some after market group will step up with a better shock at a better price.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:04 PM   #18818
Sound Farm
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Joined: Jun 2009
Location: Des Moines IA
Oddometer: 104
Ok Guys. Have a few questions. I'm going to try and do most of my own 24000 mile service over the winter. Looking through the manual. They suggest. Full drain and refill. Of. ::: coolant, brake fluid , front suspension fluid
Are u guys doin this ? The suspension is the only one that concerns me. , never done it before . I'm all about researching. It and doing it. If its completely necessary. ( I have an Iowa winters worth of time ) Any tips and suggestions while. i have her opened up for said service would be great. And one more. Anybody have a center stand for sale ? Or how the hell are u supposed to jack these up with a bash plate. ? Just take it off and jack it up ? Thanx
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:40 PM   #18819
Yossarian™
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: the 'Ha
Oddometer: 9,298
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sound Farm View Post
Ok Guys. Have a few questions. I'm going to try and do most of my own 24000 mile service over the winter. Looking through the manual. They suggest. Full drain and refill. Of. ::: coolant, brake fluid , front suspension fluid
Are u guys doin this ? The suspension is the only one that concerns me. , never done it before . I'm all about researching. It and doing it. If its completely necessary. ( I have an Iowa winters worth of time ) Any tips and suggestions while. i have her opened up for said service would be great. And one more. Anybody have a center stand for sale ? Or how the hell are u supposed to jack these up with a bash plate. ? Just take it off and jack it up ? Thanx
Front triple tree stand.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:17 PM   #18820
klinquist
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Joined: Apr 2008
Location: San Jose, CA
Oddometer: 1,004
Quote:
Originally Posted by wanderlost View Post
After a 6800 mile trip to Alaska this summer my suspension was shot. Having it rebuilt by race tech. The original rear shock is "non rebuildable" according to Triumph and probably only good for about 20K miles of use according to Race Tech. So Triumph seems to expect us to buy a $750 rear shock every 2-3 years.

Race tech is making my rear rebuildable, but in the process he found that the Alaska mud had gotten into the rear preload adjuster shaft and basically wore the plastic and metal bits to dust. So to extend the life on your bike, consider covering the end of yours and preventing water/mud from getting in there and wearing parts out. (I'm thinking a rubber glove finger sealed on with a tight zip tie should work)

Hope this advice saves someone some grief and some cash.

Paul

3000 miles on my roadie and I'm not pleased with the suspension. I just placed an order for a nice Wilbers setup, just over $1k. Should be *much* better.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:40 PM   #18821
bross
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Joined: Nov 2005
Location: Osoyoos, BC
Oddometer: 4,296
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sound Farm View Post
Ok Guys. Have a few questions. I'm going to try and do most of my own 24000 mile service over the winter. Looking through the manual. They suggest. Full drain and refill. Of. ::: coolant, brake fluid , front suspension fluid
Are u guys doin this ? The suspension is the only one that concerns me. , never done it before . I'm all about researching. It and doing it. If its completely necessary. ( I have an Iowa winters worth of time ) Any tips and suggestions while. i have her opened up for said service would be great. And one more. Anybody have a center stand for sale ? Or how the hell are u supposed to jack these up with a bash plate. ? Just take it off and jack it up ? Thanx
Suspension is easy to just change fluid. Remove forks, turn upside down into your drain pan, pump the fork a few times and let it drain. Pour in recommended amount of shock fluid, re-install. You just need special tools if you're going to pull the fork apart.
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:12 PM   #18822
browneye
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Joined: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Oddometer: 4,180
Quote:
Originally Posted by bross View Post
Suspension is easy to just change fluid. Remove forks, turn upside down into your drain pan, pump the fork a few times and let it drain. Pour in recommended amount of shock fluid, re-install. You just need special tools if you're going to pull the fork apart.
On a offroad race bike suspension is recommended to be serviced at least once per season. Changing the fluid will keep it working right and make the bushings last longer. Fork oil does break down and starts to collect gunk in it. Changing it out is cheap and easy.

The rest of it, yes, all fluids. Nothing difficult there. Not sure about learning shim-bucket valve lash setup on the triple, but suppose it could be done if you're talented with wrenching on bikes otherwise.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:03 AM   #18823
Sound Farm
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Location: Des Moines IA
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Browneye. Thanx for the heads up. -Yeah. I planned on taking it to the dealer. For a few things. Like the valve and throttle body adjustments. And the ecu update Still not sure if I should bite the bullet and get the cable. And all that.
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:49 AM   #18824
btao
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Joined: Jul 2013
Location: Not far enough...
Oddometer: 930
Does anyone know what the unladen ground clearance is to the skid plate on an XC? SWM makes a nice paddock stand, but the short size needs 28cm/11" of clearance to get the stand under the bike before you hit the lever to raise it up.

Does anyone have one or know if it will work? seems like my bike might exceed the weight limit too.

http://shop.sw-motech.com/cgi-bin/co...ypid=115837616
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Old 10-21-2013, 06:13 AM   #18825
Yossarian™
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Location: the 'Ha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btao View Post
Does anyone know what the unladen ground clearance is to the skid plate on an XC?
African or European Tiger?


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