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Old 07-27-2011, 08:51 PM   #7456
davevv
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Location: Just north of Dallas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meles meles View Post
Isn't all the dirt in the airbox is on the intake side, before the air filter? Flip that filter over and it sits over the half of the airbox with the snorkel, towards the bottom right in the second photo. Would have to see the other side of the filter to comment. The throttle bodies and airbox past the filter look clean to me. Some dust but nothing major. Filter's bad but looks like it did it's job no?
Exactly. All that dirt in the box is on the intake side of the filter. As filthy as the filter is, I'm sure the bike was having a hard time breathing, but I doubt there was any damage done. The filter looks to have done it's job quite well.

Also, regarding the stalling "issue", I live just outside Dallas and today was our 26th consecutive day over 100F. If heat were a contributor here, I've had plenty of it lately. I have no stalling issues with my bike. I have stalled it twice since I bought it, and both were my fault. My other three bikes all have a little more torque just off idle than the 800, so I have forgotten a couple of times that the baby Tiger requires just a few more RPMs on take off than the bigger engines do. Just something I have to remember and not a problem with the bike.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:26 PM   #7457
LoriKTM
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Just checking in here. Nearly 5600 miles on my bike. No stalls, clunks, or errors. Just love this bike.

The damn stock tires won't wear out, though. Keep telling myself I'll put more aggressive tires on as soon as the stock tires wear out, but it may be next spring before that happens.
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Old 07-28-2011, 01:29 AM   #7458
tedesco886
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Regarding the clogged filter...why not just throw on a pre-filter? Where, I don't know yet (still waiting for my bike). An easy to clean pre-filter would just be a take off, wash off, put back on sorta thing and cheap insurance, rather than only using a last resort type filter that comes stock.
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Old 07-28-2011, 03:48 AM   #7459
dhula
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedesco886 View Post
Regarding the clogged filter...why not just throw on a pre-filter? Where, I don't know yet (still waiting for my bike). An easy to clean pre-filter would just be a take off, wash off, put back on sorta thing and cheap insurance, rather than only using a last resort type filter that comes stock.
Clicky


Re alternator output, user handbook says 12v, 41.5 amp at 4000rpm.
Haven't done math to work it out, but IMO it's pretty good
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:38 AM   #7460
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhula View Post
Clicky


Re alternator output, user handbook says 12v, 41.5 amp at 4000rpm.
Haven't done math to work it out, but IMO it's pretty good
Power = Volts * Amps

This gives us 12*41.5 = 498W

So I guess we have another figure for the alternator output
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:39 AM   #7461
KildareMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
Power = Volts * Amps

This gives us 12*41.5 = 498W

So I guess we have another figure for the alternator output
Generally you're getting 14 volts out so that's 581W
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:45 AM   #7462
markbvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LoriKTM View Post
Just checking in here. Nearly 5600 miles on my bike. No stalls, clunks, or errors. Just love this bike.

The damn stock tires won't wear out, though. Keep telling myself I'll put more aggressive tires on as soon as the stock tires wear out, but it may be next spring before that happens.
I finally pulled the stock tires off mine at 9000 miles; could have probably gotten another thousand miles out of them at least, but I got tired of waiting to put on something knobbier.

--mark
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Old 07-28-2011, 06:58 AM   #7463
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KildareMan View Post
Generally you're getting 14 volts out so that's 581W
Excellent point
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Old 07-28-2011, 07:42 AM   #7464
FlatlanderInVT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KildareMan View Post
Generally you're getting 14 volts out so that's 581W
And if you increase the RPMs then you likely increase the current output, raising that number all the way to 645W or so. So while that much is technically available, your bike might not be very happy around idle speeds.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:04 AM   #7465
blacktiger
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Location: St.Leonards on Sea, England.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
Thanks for posting your results! Great to hear the bikes no longer stalling and running well. The AK shop did a nice job!

I was shocked to see the amount of dirt that had gotten by your air filter
(I think on just one bike?) and into the throttle bodies. I'm really surprised that permanent damage was not done ... that was A LOT of dirt being sucked straight into the motor. Can't be good for long term health of that bike's motor. That area should be pristine. For those who've not read your RR, here is the filter and air box from the report:



I'm disappointed that Triumph's air filters are doing such a poor job at sealing out dirt. Seems to me plenty of riders will be riding in similar conditions with heavy dust like you are doing in AK.

And here's the thing ... in your case it's pretty clear the air filter seemed to be the main source of problems ... but many stalling reports here indicate the owners have not gone off road. I would bet their air filters are clean.

In some cases dealers have tried all sorts of attempted fixes: remapping, TPS adjustments and lots more ... all to no avail at solving the stalling. In a few cases the dealers have had the bikes for WEEKS ... and have not solved the stalling problem.

Perhaps Triumph USA has (finally) come up with a "magic bullet" Tune that finally solves the issue? Maybe you guys got that Tune? For your sakes, I hope so ... and best wishes for continued smooth running.

Enjoying your ride report ... very impressive adventure!

One tip on paper air filters : Since these Tiger filters seem to clog up so quickly ....
1. I would carry a spare filter.
2. If you find a really dirt filter ... just pull it out and tap it on the edge to release some of the dirt. Then use compressed air (or vacuum it) to clean it up a bit.

I don't think its wise to try to wash a paper filter ... but careful work with compressed air/vacuum could help. Paper filters are the very worst choice for any vehicle going off road. Dirt bike racers/riders figured this out 40 years ago. An oiled foam filter is the way to go.

Another tip would be to put a small bead of waterproof grease around the rubber sealing edge of your filter before install. This may help keep dirt at bay. I did this on my DL1000 Vstrom and it helped A LOT. The Vstrom had the same problem with massive ingress of dirt past the filter. (also a useless paper filter) I rode thousands of miles in Baja and Copper Canyon, very dusty conditions.

Good luck and continued safe riding.
Think I can see a foot firmly in mouth. That is clearly the dirty side of the filter which has done its job admirably well considering.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:15 AM   #7466
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adv Grifter View Post
We've seen two figures quoted on elec. output, I believe the consensus is
545 watts output. More than enough.
Quote:
Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Yet another victim of Internet misinformation. Either way, it's more than the f800 and way more than my klr!
To put this issue to bed once and for all, it says on page 123 in my owners handbook :-
Alternator :- 12 Volt, 41.5Amps @ 4000rpm.
Watts = Volts x Amps so that's an output of 498W.
There, easy when you can be bothered to look up the actual facts.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:17 AM   #7467
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
To put this issue to bed once and for all, it says on page 123 in my owners handbook :-
Alternator :- 12 Volt, 41.5Amps @ 4000rpm.
Watts = Volts x Amps so that's an output of 498W.
There, easy when you can be bothered to look up the actual facts.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:20 AM   #7468
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedesco886 View Post
Regarding the clogged filter...why not just throw on a pre-filter? Where, I don't know yet (still waiting for my bike). An easy to clean pre-filter would just be a take off, wash off, put back on sorta thing and cheap insurance, rather than only using a last resort type filter that comes stock.
This what you're looking for? http://www.uniflow.com.au/contents/en-us/d57.html
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:25 AM   #7469
The Jerk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacktiger View Post
To put this issue to bed once and for all, it says on page 123 in my owners handbook :-
Alternator :- 12 Volt, 41.5Amps @ 4000rpm.
Watts = Volts x Amps so that's an output of 498W.
There, easy when you can be bothered to look up the actual facts.
Not quite. When the engine is running the electrical system is operating at closer to 14v, like 13.8v. So that changes the final number a bit.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:36 AM   #7470
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romulux View Post
I've got the braking clunk.

I have never done any steering column work so I would appreciate some further detail on what folks are tightening up. Can you break it down real simple like?

There's a large nicely-finished nut at the top just below the the handlebars. Is that what's being tightened?

The service manual shows a special tool required for the castellated nuts below that.



Also, I noticed something today that is new behavior since my lowside -- I'm wondering if I tweaked the forks slightly out of place.

If I let go of the bars on a clear stretch of road, oscillations develop as I hit 43 mph and worsen as I continue to decelerate.

I've never experienced that before on any bike and I'm guessing it's not normal. Will loosening the forks and making sure they're lined up before re-tightening them solve it?
No that big nut on top is basically to hold on the top yoke (triple tree in the US) I'll call them yokes 'coz I'm English.
The head bearing adjustment is made with the castle nuts under that top yoke. There are two, separated by a thin washer. The two tightened against each other lock them in position.
So, you have to remove the top yoke and then loosen the top castle nut (I tap it round with an aluminium drift) which will free up the lower castle nut. Then you can tension that nut.
As I posted earlier, I had to tighten it by about half a turn or three notches to get a "non clunking" setting on my bike. I'm betting though, that it'll be different on each bike. It is a bit "trial & error".
Unlike taper roller bearings which you can feel when you've gone too tight, I found it almost impossible to feel any difference in the way the forks rotated before and after re-tensioning. So, I guess it is possible to over tighten these if you're not careful.
Good luck with it if you do tackle the job. Have to add at the end that I should have taken it to the dealer but I couldn't be bothered and would have had to book it in and wait a week without any real guarantee that they'd do the job properly.
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