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Old 08-01-2011, 06:09 PM   #7576
Mercury264
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Originally Posted by soph9 View Post
and what it sounds like when we tried to start it yesterday. Cheryl tweaked the throttle cable and no stalls after that for now.


One thing I just thought about (don't know why I didn't remember it before) - how do you turn the bike off ? I ask since there is/was an issue with Sprint's whereby if you turn it off using the kill switch, this can screw up the TPS when you next come to start the bike. I see you have tank bags and I know on my XRL I use the kill switch to turn the bike off when I have a tank bag since it's easier.

Just a thought....
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:14 PM   #7577
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Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
One thing I just thought about (don't know why I didn't remember it before) - how do you turn the bike off ? I ask since there is/was an issue with Sprint's whereby if you turn it off using the kill switch, this can screw up the TPS when you next come to start the bike. I see you have tank bags and I know on my XRL I use the kill switch to turn the bike off when I have a tank bag since it's easier.

Just a thought....
Interesting thought. Both FI Triumphs I've owned have had a statement in the owner's manual specifically stating that the kill switch should not be used to turn the engine off except in case of emergency. In normal use, the ignition switch should be used to stop the engine. The ECU does not get a proper shutdown if you use the kill switch to stop the engine - it's kind of analagous to pulling the plug on your computer instead of using the normal shutdown procedure.

I kind of doubt this would cause the issues that people are seeing (more likely I would just think that it would screw up the adaption) but you never know.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:48 PM   #7578
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Interesting thought. Both FI Triumphs I've owned have had a statement in the owner's manual specifically stating that the kill switch should not be used to turn the engine off except in case of emergency. In normal use, the ignition switch should be used to stop the engine. The ECU does not get a proper shutdown if you use the kill switch to stop the engine - it's kind of analagous to pulling the plug on your computer instead of using the normal shutdown procedure.

I kind of doubt this would cause the issues that people are seeing (more likely I would just think that it would screw up the adaption) but you never know.
I agree, I'm not convinced that's the issue here but I did want to throw it out there - it was seeing the video with the great big tank bag that jogged my memory. Using the kill switch on the XRL is not an issue since, well, the bike's technology is pre-historic
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:51 PM   #7579
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Finally got the bash plate to fit. I had to bend the lip that interferes with the canister about 1/4" to 1/2" to make it fit. I bent the bracket holding the canister as much as I could - there simply was no more physical room for the canister to fit into - it was tight pretty much against everything. There is no way on earth that bash plate would fit without bending that lip.

Oh well...done now
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:55 PM   #7580
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I was just looking through the service manual regarding the discussion a page or two back about the stepper motor or idle speed control motor as they call it.

Here's what the service manual has to say about this part:

"Throttle stepper motor:
Situated between the throttle bodies of cylinders two and three. The throttle stepper actuates a cam/lever which causes variations in the closed throttle position. Although used primarily to ensure target idle speed is maintained, it also increases throttle opening when the engine is cold."

FYI.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:16 PM   #7581
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Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
Finally got the bash plate to fit. I had to bend the lip that interferes with the canister about 1/4" to 1/2" to make it fit. I bent the bracket holding the canister as much as I could - there simply was no more physical room for the canister to fit into - it was tight pretty much against everything. There is no way on earth that bash plate would fit without bending that lip.

Oh well...done now
Wow! All I had to do was push the bottom of the canister in towards to bike. Didn't have to "bend" anything.
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Old 08-01-2011, 07:21 PM   #7582
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Wow! All I had to do was push the bottom of the canister in towards to bike. Didn't have to "bend" anything.
Maybe they changed something - no way it was going to fit without bending the tab. I'll take a picture in the morning of how close it is.
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:55 PM   #7583
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Maybe they changed something - no way it was going to fit without bending the tab. I'll take a picture in the morning of how close it is.
I just put my SW Motech plate on. Pretty obvious they didn't have a U.S. bike when they designed it. Didn't have to bend anything on the plate. I loosened the allen bolt at the rear of the canister to let it move as I put the plate on. If you didn't loosen that bolt, you might try that, there seems to be quite a bit of play around that hole in the bracket. The plate pushes the canister inboard, but nothing severe. Going to want to keep an eye on the nuts holding it on since I think the new plate is thicker and they all don't quite make it to the lock ring now on some of them.

If anyone is interested in the Triumph bash plate I just took off (about 2000 miles on it, nice gravel patina on it), PM me.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:05 PM   #7584
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I just put my SW Motech plate on. Pretty obvious they didn't have a U.S. bike when they designed it. Didn't have to bend anything on the plate. I loosened the allen bolt at the rear of the canister to let it move as I put the plate on. If you didn't loosen that bolt, you might try that, there seems to be quite a bit of play around that hole in the bracket. The plate pushes the canister inboard, but nothing severe. Going to want to keep an eye on the nuts holding it on since I think the new plate is thicker and they all don't quite make it to the lock ring now on some of them.

If anyone is interested in the Triumph bash plate I just took off (about 2000 miles on it, nice gravel patina on it), PM me.
My buddy used the SW Moto tech skid plat on his v-strom the two tone color looks nice but the first time he smacked a rock he lost a couple rivets. Thats the problem with the SW Moto tech skid plate is its actually 3 pieces riveted together. I have the touratech skidplate on my Xcountry and its really tough and is a single welded piece. The Altrider skid plate for the 800XC looks real sweet buts its not yet released. When i get my Tiger this winter I'm going to go with the Altrider skid plate thats if its as good of quality as it looks
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:51 AM   #7585
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Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
One thing I just thought about (don't know why I didn't remember it before) - how do you turn the bike off ? I ask since there is/was an issue with Sprint's whereby if you turn it off using the kill switch, this can screw up the TPS when you next come to start the bike.
That's an interesting point. Even my carbed Bonneville came with instructions from Triumph to always use the ignition switch to turn the bike off. I'm pretty sure the same warning can be found in the Tiger's owner's manual.

--mark
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:34 AM   #7586
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Tiger 800 Stalling

Just a quick update regarding my previously described stalling problems.

First, I am continuing to ride and the stalling occurred for a third time. It was during nearly identical circumstances. The bike would not idle at a stop sign. In my previous post, I had said it would not idle at 800 rpm. This was an error on my part. My bike usually idles at about 1400 rpm, not 800. I shut the bike down right away for five minutes, restarted, and had no problems for the remaining thirty minutes of my ride. Several other rides were event-free.

I received my DealerTool, and just as The Jerk had predicted there were no faults recorded. I have made an appointment for service, but they are so busy it won't be for two weeks. My dealer told me that he has seen two similar problems with stalling on BMW bikes in which the culprit was the charcoal canister. I'll post an update when I know more.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:42 AM   #7587
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Just a quick update regarding my previously described stalling problems.

First, I am continuing to ride and the stalling occurred for a third time. It was during nearly identical circumstances. The bike would not idle at a stop sign. In my previous post, I had said it would not idle at 800 rpm. This was an error on my part. My bike usually idles at about 1400 rpm, not 800. I shut the bike down right away for five minutes, restarted, and had no problems for the remaining thirty minutes of my ride. Several other rides were event-free.

I received my DealerTool, and just as The Jerk had predicted there were no faults recorded. I have made an appointment for service, but they are so busy it won't be for two weeks. My dealer told me that he has seen two similar problems with stalling on BMW bikes in which the culprit was the charcoal canister. I'll post an update when I know more.
Do you use the kill switch or the key to turn the bike off ? What about the charcoal canister was causing the stalling ?

Good Luck
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:43 AM   #7588
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That's an interesting point. Even my carbed Bonneville came with instructions from Triumph to always use the ignition switch to turn the bike off. I'm pretty sure the same warning can be found in the Tiger's owner's manual.

--mark
I think it's in every manual - the only people that make you use the kill switch are when you're on the MSF course (well they did for me...)
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:46 AM   #7589
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The 800GS charcoal canister stalling problem was confined to the USA (the only county to require them) and was attributed to two things. (1) the canister vent hose was pulling in water. This was fixed by installing a "T" vent (much like a plumbing stack) in the line. (2) Overfilled gas tanks were overflowing into the canister. Fix was to stop overfilling the gas tank, particularly on a hot day.
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Old 08-02-2011, 08:56 AM   #7590
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The 800GS charcoal canister stalling problem was confined to the USA (the only county to require them) and was attributed to two things. (1) the canister vent hose was pulling in water. This was fixed by installing a "T" vent (much like a plumbing stack) in the line. (2) Overfilled gas tanks were overflowing into the canister. Fix was to stop overfilling the gas tank, particularly on a hot day.
Thanks Jim. That is good to know. I assume that if you do indeed fill the canister with water and/or gas, the fix is as simple as emptying it (into an approved container of course ) ?
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