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Old 09-13-2011, 05:44 PM   #8431
av_mech
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Scratch that. I took the windshield off and removed the gauge cluster from the bike. I opened the back and found a circuit board. I expected one since there is an LCD display and trip computer. I removed the black screws that hold the board down. The board is then separated from the plastic lens. No bulbs here. LEDs soldered to the board. Foiled by technology. If I wanted to get really creative, I'd try to solder a resistor inline so the damn high beam and low gas lights weren't so friggin bright at night. Starting reassembly.
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:16 PM   #8432
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Scratch that. I took the windshield off and removed the gauge cluster from the bike. I opened the back and found a circuit board. I expected one since there is an LCD display and trip computer. I removed the black screws that hold the board down. The board is then separated from the plastic lens. No bulbs here. LEDs soldered to the board. Foiled by technology. If I wanted to get really creative, I'd try to solder a resistor inline so the damn high beam and low gas lights weren't so friggin bright at night. Starting reassembly.
Got to say....the bit of tape is looking much easier....
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Old 09-13-2011, 06:59 PM   #8433
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Yeah but.... tape on a 12,000 dollar motorcycle? Not mine.

This is the inside. I had one of the back too but photobucket has been giving me fits the past 24 hours.

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Old 09-13-2011, 07:10 PM   #8434
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Finally got it to upload. I remember some discussion about water seepage into the gauge cluster about 200 pages ago. Having seen the inside and how it's put together, it's pretty good. There's no rubber seal, but there are several tight fitting joints. Even if water enters, the back is open where the connector comes in. The water will evaporate even if the screen fogs for a day or two. If it fogs, just pull the rubber connector cover off the back. Then go Triumph and make them give you a new gauge cluster while you are still under warranty. There are several places to run a thin bead of RTV if you are out of warranty.

Photobucket
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Old 09-13-2011, 07:45 PM   #8435
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Thanks for the info and photos.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:16 PM   #8436
Lion BR
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Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Finally got it to upload. I remember some discussion about water seepage into the gauge cluster about 200 pages ago. Having seen the inside and how it's put together, it's pretty good. There's no rubber seal, but there are several tight fitting joints. Even if water enters, the back is open where the connector comes in. The water will evaporate even if the screen fogs for a day or two. If it fogs, just pull the rubber connector cover off the back. Then go Triumph and make them give you a new gauge cluster while you are still under warranty. There are several places to run a thin bead of RTV if you are out of warranty.

Man, that light must really bother you. What about playing with the sending unit instead (if these things have one, that is).
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:33 PM   #8437
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Man, that light must really bother you. What about playing with the sending unit instead (if these things have one, that is).
Yes, the lights bother me. They are, in my opinion, too bright. I notice that they actually affect my night vision. I was only seeking a solution to make something a little better. I really enjoy modifying my bikes so they are set up exactly the way I want. I like wrenching and coming up with fixes for issues big and small.

I looked at the wiring diagrams as well. There's not really a clear definition of what the inputs are to the gauge cluster other than to trace out the circuit. I'd clip a wire if I knew which one to clip. However, the low fuel light would be a function of the fuel level input. The processor in the gauge cluster would take that info and use it for the level display, miles to empty, and light. I obviously don't want to lose all that. Just the light, which I don't think is easily possible.

I reckon I could disable the high beam by clipping the wire that goes into pin 13 on the cluster connector. I may just try that. I can always splice it back together if things go horribly awry.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:23 AM   #8438
Andylaser
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Now you have it apart, just paint over the fuel icon with black paint.
Should turn it into a dull yellow glow.
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Old 09-14-2011, 02:01 AM   #8439
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Now you have it apart, just paint over the fuel icon with black paint.
Should turn it into a dull yellow glow.
Or a neat circle of paint on the inside of the glass/plastic cover.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:35 AM   #8440
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an option for you to try...

Quote:
Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Yes, the lights bother me. They are, in my opinion, too bright. I notice that they actually affect my night vision. I was only seeking a solution to make something a little better. I really enjoy modifying my bikes so they are set up exactly the way I want. I like wrenching and coming up with fixes for issues big and small.

I looked at the wiring diagrams as well. There's not really a clear definition of what the inputs are to the gauge cluster other than to trace out the circuit. I'd clip a wire if I knew which one to clip. However, the low fuel light would be a function of the fuel level input. The processor in the gauge cluster would take that info and use it for the level display, miles to empty, and light. I obviously don't want to lose all that. Just the light, which I don't think is easily possible.

I reckon I could disable the high beam by clipping the wire that goes into pin 13 on the cluster connector. I may just try that. I can always splice it back together if things go horribly awry.
Av_Mech,

I can recommend applying (not tape) but an appropriately sized 'disc' of window tint film. The film is available in multiple strengths... think dark, darker, really dark and dang near black. I have done this with a number of offensive indicator lights, mostly coffeemakers and the like. You can still see the lamp illuminated but at a brilliance of your choosing.

Two downsides, maybe, depending on your talents and budget: One is the cost; hate to spend fifteen bucks to make a 3/8" circular overlay. Two is the actual mechanics of making the little bugger. Not that diffucult, but finesse is in order.

Think about it.

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Old 09-14-2011, 05:37 AM   #8441
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Or a neat circle of paint on the inside of the glass/plastic cover.
Or window tint film inside the lens over the tach face.
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:57 AM   #8442
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Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Has anybody cracked into the gauge cluster yet? I'd like to disable the idiot gas light cause I'm not an idiot and I can read the gas gauge and trip meter. That thing is bright and annoying at night. I just took a quick peek at it and I didn't see how it comes apart. Removing it from the bike doesn't look hard, but getting to the guts may be a different story.
ECU to instruments is CANBUS. Good luck
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:21 AM   #8443
av_mech
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ECU to instruments is CANBUS. Good luck
I wasn't going to mess with any of the ecu inputs. And if I was going to cut the headlight wire it appears to be a single discrete input into the cluster. The circuit card would only be looking for voltage or no voltage to turn the bright indicator on. The fuel light is much more difficult to solve electronically.

But, these other guys have offered some great possible solutions that don't involve electronic changes. Im interested to hear others. I'll be investigating them on Friday night. Tonight is date night.
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THE ADVENTURES OF TYSON AND HOBBES
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:00 AM   #8444
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Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
Yeah but.... tape on a 12,000 dollar motorcycle? Not mine.

This is the inside. I had one of the back too but photobucket has been giving me fits the past 24 hours.


I could see where a carefully painted circle of black paint on, if accessible, the inside face of the panel above where the LED illuminates. If that wasn't enough then both sides, keeping inside the lines of course

I see you live in Boise. Was up that way a few years back... fell in love with Moose Drool on tap! Have one for me mate!
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Old 09-14-2011, 09:57 AM   #8445
L.B.S.
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Originally Posted by av_mech View Post
I wasn't going to mess with any of the ecu inputs. And if I was going to cut the headlight wire it appears to be a single discrete input into the cluster. The circuit card would only be looking for voltage or no voltage to turn the bright indicator on. The fuel light is much more difficult to solve electronically.

But, these other guys have offered some great possible solutions that don't involve electronic changes. Im interested to hear others. I'll be investigating them on Friday night. Tonight is date night.

Still a paint, but a translucent type of tinting paint.

-Tamiya TS-71 Smoke (there are other part Tamiya part #'s for different materials/characteristics ie: TS-19 and TS-31 Smoke etc., polycarbonate/plastic/whatever. Best to ask a model shop or someone who knows about this stuff)

-VHT "Nightshade" Usually found in larger auto part stores for tinting plastic tail lights on cars. Don't know if it's still made or available any more.

I used the Tamiya to tint my Honda CBR windscreen and front running light lens. Worked well. The more you spray, the darker it goes. Light coat, light tint.

HTH
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