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Old 10-07-2011, 05:58 AM   #8881
fbj913
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Location: KC MO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motosickle2000 View Post
Now you can get these:

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_...illet_hg_9%2F8

Get the 106 X 38/40 template. It will fit perfectly. You will need to drill out the handguards where they bolt on to the bar ends to 10mm and then they will bolt right on.



They are very sturdy - I have already crashed twice after putting mine on with no damage other than some scuffed paint on the crashbars, the passenger footpegs, and the handguards. No other damage to the bike. It seems to show that radiator and tank guards are unnecessary.


Im gonna buy me a set today! These things look awesome! How did your rear foot peg look after this topple? What top clamp did you get. There are three options.
SX Top Clamp
SXdx Top Clamp - Add $4.95
ADV Top Clamp, Fat Bars Only - Add $14.95
ADVdx Top Clamp, Fat Bars Only - Add $24.95

Did you upgrade to Ultimate handguards?
None
Ultimate Handguards - Add $9.95
Ultimate Handguards Touring - Add $19.95

fbj913 screwed with this post 10-07-2011 at 06:05 AM
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:02 AM   #8882
motosickle2000
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I used the SX Top Clamp. I didn't need it drilled for anything else and if I did later, I could drill it myself.

There is no need to upgrade to the ultimate handguards, the std versions are plenty sturdy.

Remember - you will need the ROX risers for the 106mm top plate to work. There is not a top plate specifically made for the Triumph (yet). I wanted the ROX risers anyway, so it worked out fine.

I used the stock Triumph bar ends and hardware. I just had to drill out the handguards to 10mm to have them fit over the barend weights.


My plastic rear footrest detent plate broke - it is a $5 part (p/n PFKL2061539). The footpegs work fine with it broken, but the rubber has a tendency to ride up the peg. It is a 5 minute job to replace. The aluminum underneath the peg got scratched, but it is hard to see.

The Triumph crashbars worked great and only had some minor scratches in the paint.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
Im gonna buy me a set today! These things look awesome! How did your rear foot peg look after this topple? What top clamp did you get. There are three options.
SX Top Clamp
SXdx Top Clamp - Add $4.95
ADV Top Clamp, Fat Bars Only - Add $14.95
ADVdx Top Clamp, Fat Bars Only - Add $24.95

Did you upgrade to Ultimate handguards?
None
Ultimate Handguards - Add $9.95
Ultimate Handguards Touring - Add $19.95
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:10 AM   #8883
spewler
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Quote:
Isn't it just a plain old H3 that you can get at Auto Zone?
In theory, yes. I went to three different auto parts stores, including Auto Zone, and either they didn't carry it or they were out of stock. I also went to three moto dealerships, including where I purchased the bike, and none of them carried it. So, I just ordered replacements from 1000bulbs.com. Bulbs are out there...just seems like you shouldn't have to waste so much time getting them!
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Old 10-07-2011, 07:13 AM   #8884
spewler
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Motosickle2000, that is a great looking setup...thanks for hooking up the rest of us with part numbers, etc.
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Old 10-07-2011, 08:13 AM   #8885
ssevy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romulux View Post
Weirdness a day or two ago. Moved recently and haven't had a lot of time to ride despite the incredibly nice fall weather here. I had an errand and took the bike after it sitting for exactly one week. It was filled up a couple days before going unridden for a week.

It would crank and start but immediately stall. Didn't appear that the battery was dead since it started fine but stalled immediately.

I tried starting a few times with it stalling each time.

I opened the throttle about halfway before starting it a final time, and this time with it reving up halfway to redline after starting, it remained running. I let off the throttle and it didn't die.

It was fine for the half hour ride and didn't behave oddly at all.

I'm hoping it's just bad gas? Never had any issues in the past. I do have the new tune and my bike has never been a staller. 3000 something on the odometer.
I would bet bad gas. When you fill up with bad gas and then let the bike sit for any length of time, the water settles and then is fed in nearly pure form to the engine. If you get bad gas when en route, it tends to mix around and still burn okay. I always dump some Star Tron in when I fill up and won't be riding for a few days. The ethanol in today's fuel just absorbs water like a sponge. There are several new products in the market now to address the ethanol issue, but Star Tron was the first I tried, and it cleaned my fuel system and improved my mileage as a side effect, so I've stuck with it.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:19 AM   #8886
Xcountry-Rider
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I just ordered my ROX Risers from altrider we'll see how long it takes.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:20 AM   #8887
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasthomas View Post
Thanks for that, just ordered one.
I know it may be too late for you...I'm just back from vacation so I just read this....I bought the double socket with the coiled cable from Powerlet - I use a big rubber band to attach it to the instrument binnacle and despite hitting a washout at 50 or so, it's never moved.
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:29 AM   #8888
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halfast3 View Post
The only time I've had a problem with ABS was on a steep downhill driveway with loose gravel. The bike just didn't want to stop, a bit unnerving but I lived...
What happened ?

I don't understand why ABS is so bad in gravel type situations ? Can anybody fill me in
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:32 AM   #8889
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xcountry-Rider View Post
Have you guys seen the pic of the up coming 1200 Adventure bike?


First thought ? Bolt on passenger pegs
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:08 AM   #8890
Yossarian™
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
I don't understand why ABS is so bad in gravel type situations ? Can anybody fill me in
ABS releases brake pressure when it senses the wheel locking up. Wheels lock up more easily under low braking pressure on loose surfaces, which means that the ABS essentially disengages the brakes. Couple that with a steep downhill and the rider must now negotiate the run without benefit of usable brakes.

It's fun to freewheel down a steep rocky hill on a 30# mountain bike; not so much fun on a 450# motorcycle.
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:15 AM   #8891
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
ABS releases brake pressure when it senses the wheel locking up. Wheels lock up more easily under low braking pressure on loose surfaces, which means that the ABS essentially disengages the brakes. Couple that with a steep downhill and the rider must now negotiate the run without benefit of usable brakes.

It's fun to freewheel down a steep rocky hill on a 30# mountain bike; not so much fun on a 450# motorcycle.
But if a wheel is locked up, how can it provide any braking force ? Or am I missing the point that on tarmac that is true but on gravel it's not - i.e. due to the gravel road surface, even a locked up wheel can provide some braking force - but then if that's true, can it provide MORE braking force than you can get with the wheel turning ?

Just trying to learn here - this is the first bike I've had with ABS and I hear all the time about dis-engaging the ABS while on dirt but I want to try and find out why that's the case.
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:17 AM   #8892
fbj913
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yossarian™ View Post
ABS releases brake pressure when it senses the wheel locking up. Wheels lock up more easily under low braking pressure on loose surfaces, which means that the ABS essentially disengages the brakes. Couple that with a steep downhill and the rider must now negotiate the run without benefit of usable brakes.

It's fun to freewheel down a steep rocky hill on a 30# mountain bike; not so much fun on a 450# motorcycle.
They don't disengage. They pulse leaving you the ability to still handle the bike. Imagine that same scenario with a rear tire sliding and now starting to turn you sideways. If it's never happen to you let me fill you in, It sucks! I have had zero abs issues on gravel with my XC. The pulse seems perfect and helps a ton in my opinion.
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:20 AM   #8893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
But if a wheel is locked up, how can it provide any braking force ? Or am I missing the point that on tarmac that is true but on gravel it's not - i.e. due to the gravel road surface, even a locked up wheel can provide some braking force - but then if that's true, can it provide MORE braking force than you can get with the wheel turning ?

Just trying to learn here - this is the first bike I've had with ABS and I hear all the time about dis-engaging the ABS while on dirt but I want to try and find out why that's the case.
No problem, I'll be happy to help with my limited knowledge.

A locked wheel will always provide *some* measure of braking force. In situations with hard surfaces, it's usually significantly less force than braking with the wheel not sliding; static vs. dynamic coefficients of friction.

On gravel/dirt, though, a locked wheel builds up a little ramp of loose stuff in front of the contact patch, which actually provides a greater braking force than can be accomplished with strictly dynamic friction. As the tire slides the force is dissipated through moving all of the little debris away from the path of the tire.

Try it with a bicycle. Lock the the rear brake and just try dragging it through a sand pit. It takes a lot of effort!
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:24 AM   #8894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
They don't disengage. They pulse leaving you the ability to still handle the bike. Imagine that same scenario with a rear tire sliding and now starting to turn you sideways. If it's never happen to you let me fill you in, It sucks! I have had zero abs issues on gravel with my XC. The pulse seems perfect and helps a ton in my opinion.
I'm not advocating the disabling of the ABS for all off-pavement operation, so please don't think I'm anti-ABS. If I have a very steep downhill grade off pavement to negotiate, though, I'll turn the ABS off every time.

I cannot count the number of times I've had to negotiate a very steep trail descent; it is usually much easier if I can do so by locking the rear wheel and letting it drag. (Not on the Tiger, mind you, but more dirt-oriented machines.) The force of gravity easily overpowers even engine braking in 1st gear on steep inclines.

Here is an interesting read: http://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/pdf/Esv/esv16/98S2W36.PDF

I understand that not all ABS systems are identical. Still I think it's good to be able to disable one when needed.
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Yossarian™ screwed with this post 10-07-2011 at 10:31 AM
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Old 10-07-2011, 10:34 AM   #8895
fullmonte
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Location: Chattanooga, Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
But if a wheel is locked up, how can it provide any braking force ? Or am I missing the point that on tarmac that is true but on gravel it's not - i.e. due to the gravel road surface, even a locked up wheel can provide some braking force - but then if that's true, can it provide MORE braking force than you can get with the wheel turning ?

Just trying to learn here - this is the first bike I've had with ABS and I hear all the time about dis-engaging the ABS while on dirt but I want to try and find out why that's the case.
Somewhere on Youtube is a vid of a BMW GS going down a rocky slope that will answer your question with alarming clarity. Fortunately, nobody got hurt, but the footage really is a testament to why you should disengage ABS off road, at least on the BMW.
edit: Didn't find it after digging around, but I have seen the video linked here before.
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