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Old 05-01-2012, 12:23 PM   #12541
Evomx971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GitchaGumee View Post
I hate to bring up an old topic, but... I received my SW-MOTECH City tank bag and was going to mount it today. The bag itself looks great, but I'm leary of the topring kit.

I was expecting the simplicity of a quick pin to release the bag, but it has a rotary mechanism that actuates four dogs that release the bag. My main concern is with the release pull cord that routes through the body of the mount. If (when) this cord fails there is no way to release the bag. I hate it when manufacturers make designs more complex with little to no benefit in function.

Has anybody with this topring had any issues? Share my concerns?
HA! I just put a Daypack over the weekend on my XC and as I sat at work yesterday it dawned on me that if that little string breaks, I won't be able to refuel the bike. Last night I pulled the topring back off, dismantled it, and drilled a hole just behind the "security" hole (actually just flipped the template over and it was in the perfect spot). If something would happen and the string breaks, I have the small allen wrench in the bag and could take the bag off the top ring and if you poke the wrench in the new hole I drilled, I can turn the mechanism that releases it. Could have had the hole go all the way through the bag... but hoping I never have to use it. Based on the other post, it sounds like there's a way to get a screwdriver in there from the outside to get it released as well.

I agree... over engineered!
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Old 05-01-2012, 01:53 PM   #12542
UtahFox
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Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
Is that zip tied to your bars?
Yep. There's a flap that runs halfway around the bar, which is about one inch wide and has some stickum on the bottom. On either side of that flap you run the zip ties, so 2 of those plus the sticky stuff is what's keeping it attached. You can kinda see that rubberized flap in that photo.
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Old 05-01-2012, 03:59 PM   #12543
swimmer
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Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Hmm, used this exact cable on Saturday to upload the OEM map to my laptop, then I overwrote it with the Arrow one. Did you use the CD that came with it? If so that was your problem, TuneECU sees this cable on its own. This is the cable I used, just took the pic...

It seems this cable is the way to go as the other option is to order from the vendor in the UK or is there a US vendor for that same cable sold in the UK?
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:33 PM   #12544
marloweluke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UtahFox View Post
Hmm, used this exact cable on Saturday to upload the OEM map to my laptop, then I overwrote it with the Arrow one. Did you use the CD that came with it? If so that was your problem, TuneECU sees this cable on its own. This is the cable I used, just took the pic...

I had the same problem with the Amazon cable that Syspig had. My amazon cable did not work using the TuneECU drivers. I never installed the driver that came with the cable. The incorrect chipset would not allow the cable to work with TuneECU. As mentioned in previous post I bought the Ebay cable from "gameadvance". Just search "TuneECU cable Triumph" and you'll find it. Cost a little more, but guaranteed to work.
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:36 PM   #12545
marloweluke
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Originally Posted by Mr_Chris View Post
Yeah, just have em grab out the parts catalogue with the drawings, and order the replacement parts, as though you crashed and broke yours or something. I'm sure you pay a bit of a higher price than the cheapest aftermarket, and sorry I don't recall how much mine was anymore, but you can order almost any bit off a Triumph, separately, down to screws and such. Although I've seen screws for $9.50 so I don't recommend buying those in this way.

You need the wiring harness, the button switch, and there's an L-bracket that mounts it with the grip switch... and screws. They are all numbered there in the drawings.

Chris
Awesome!!! Thanks!!!
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Old 05-01-2012, 04:39 PM   #12546
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Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by marloweluke View Post
I had the same problem with the Amazon cable that Syspig had. My amazon cable did not work using the TuneECU drivers. I never installed the driver that came with the cable. The incorrect chipset would not allow the cable to work with TuneECU. As mentioned in previous post I bought the Ebay cable from "gameadvance". Just search "TuneECU cable Triumph" and you'll find it. Cost a little more, but guaranteed to work.
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:02 PM   #12547
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
CJ Designs rack, Seahorse case with QFS mounts. Rack is well made and perfect size IMO.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=11576
JimJim - are you the same inmate who mounted Pelican type cases using adel clamps ? If so, how did that work out for you ?
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Old 05-01-2012, 08:25 PM   #12548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markbvt View Post
That's the AKI scale, same as the US (also known as the (R+M)/2 scale). The RON scale, used in Europe, uses higher numbers.

--mark
I did not read the post carefully enough, and I was always under the impression the octane number on the pumps in the States were higher than what I was used to seeing at home. Or is it just that the 'Super Duper' grades were available all over and not just a few locations? How high do the octane ratings in the states? I was sure I had seen some 95 or greater at one time, mind you this could have been 15 years ago or more.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:27 AM   #12549
helotaxi
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Depends on where you are in the States. Highest octane available at every station is based on the elevation of the area. In the higher elevations, 91 is usually the highest you'll find unless the station specifically sells Super Premium. At sea level, 93 is the norm. Regular and mid-grade are lower octane at higher altitudes as well.
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Old 05-02-2012, 05:57 AM   #12550
fbj913
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Originally Posted by helotaxi View Post
Depends on where you are in the States. Highest octane available at every station is based on the elevation of the area. In the higher elevations, 91 is usually the highest you'll find unless the station specifically sells Super Premium. At sea level, 93 is the norm. Regular and mid-grade are lower octane at higher altitudes as well.
Not sure elevation has anything to do with it. 87-91 is normally at every station. You can find 93 at most if not all BP. I think there is some higher octane on the west coast specific to the gas station...

fbj913 screwed with this post 05-02-2012 at 07:53 AM
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Old 05-02-2012, 06:01 AM   #12551
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Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
JimJim - are you the same inmate who mounted Pelican type cases using adel clamps ? If so, how did that work out for you ?
Nope not me.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:13 AM   #12552
jphish
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Some places in western US have 85, 88, 91 octane as the choices. But most are 87, 89, 91. Though a few small towns with 1 pump, only offer 87. My question is: whats the issue ? One of the positive attributes of 800 tiggers is... they run fine on 87.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:53 AM   #12553
fbj913
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Originally Posted by jphish View Post
Some places in western US have 85, 88, 91 octane as the choices. But most are 87, 89, 91. Though a few small towns with 1 pump, only offer 87. My question is: whats the issue ? One of the positive attributes of 800 tiggers is... they run fine on 87.
yes I ment 87-91! Ill fix my above statement.
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Old 05-02-2012, 07:55 AM   #12554
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I have run 87-97 (with Amsoil treatment) and I can not get a real differenct in mileage yet. So far I can not find a reason to spend the extra money!
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Old 05-02-2012, 08:30 AM   #12555
markbvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbj913 View Post
I have run 87-97 (with Amsoil treatment) and I can not get a real differenct in mileage yet. So far I can not find a reason to spend the extra money!
There is no reason to spend the extra money. Higher-octane gas doesn't contain more energy, it's just not as combustible, which is necessary for certain engines (higher compression, for example). If the engine can run on 87 octane without detonation issues, there's no advantage in using higher-octane gas. It's just a waste of money.

--mark
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