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Old 10-14-2012, 03:20 PM   #14611
invicta1
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Mine actually produces oil as it goes. Makes me a nice little side income.
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Old 10-15-2012, 03:19 AM   #14612
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Doofenshmirtz View Post
Mine has 27,000 miles well see if your bikes are still not burning when you get close to my mileage. I didn't burn oil either when i was under 10K. Its not some big deal just saying to keep a eye on it. The last couple oil changes i had to top off at the mid point.
Well, my Tig955 has 67000 miles on the clock and still doesn't use any oil. I ran them in the same way.
I will add that all these triples seem to burn a little if you rev them high. Above 6K mostly. I guess that applies to most engines. The good thing about Triumph triples is that you don't have to rev the nuts off them to make good progress.
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Old 10-15-2012, 08:57 AM   #14613
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
First off, YMMV.

From trackday experience, on the street, you'd never want to run a stickier tire on the rear than what you have on the front. It's a lot easier to over-ride the rear and still catch it. The front, not so much. An easier way to think about it is the stickier rear will push the front, on asphalt. On the dirt, I'd think it'd be OK, as a lot of dirttrack schools teach students using a street rear and a knobby or dirttrack tire on the front.

I know that some tires have different carcass construction that don't lend too well to other construction types. The profile and belt layouts are designed to run as a matched set. I don't know, with those tires.

You can always try it and see. If it doesn't work out, order whichever tire you want to end up on and swap it out. I once ran a set of tires, for ~200 miles, and hated them. I pulled them and sold 'em.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by PYG RYDR View Post
I have the Mefo front and the Heidenaus rear. Both have 3600 miles. The rear looks great with many miles left and the feel has been good on all surfaces-still loads with mud. The front provided good traction-still greasy in mud, but the sides are mostly gone and needs replaced soon. I will try a TKC80 or the Heidenaus front next time.

If you are riding mostly asphalt with your Battlewing rear, I would choose something other than the Mefo.
I should have added that I am due to go on a trip to Maine in a week or so that will involve some highway (to get there) and then a fair bit of dirt roads etc. and I'm sure some mud along the way. I put another Battlewing on the rear since I needed a new tire and I was going on a trip to Montreal, 2-up with no chance of dirt.
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:16 AM   #14614
browneye
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Oil usage?

Uh, yeah, cylinders don't 'glaze'. A cross-hatch hone puts fine scratches into the barrel that the rings wear down until the surface is smooth. This is required for the rings to get a good seal. If those scratches aren't worn down sufficiently during breakin then the rings don't seal as well as they could thus allowing some blow-by. Through extended running the rings begin to wear and the gap in the ends will enlarge also allowing oil by.

So the solution is to run them with a conventional oil for a few hundred miles, varied speeds with low load, hard decelleration as well as accelleration, and then switch to a full synthetic once the barrels have been ground down smooth by the rings. Since you can't see inside the motor to verify this, you have to do this 'break in period' based on the manufacturers recommendation.

I swear by a very early oil change to get rid of initial wear material that is dispursed in the oil, and any assembly dirt or debris. Like at around 200-250 miles. Then run-in to about 1200-1500 miles and switch to full syn. I've done this with the last four new bikes I've bought and they all ran super clean, no oil usage. My Tiger is not different, 3K miles and it isn't down any.

I would not go 6K between changes with any oil. Especially not with a mixed gearbox and crankcase configuration. Three to four thousand is plenty, oil changes are cheap, and you don't have to worry about oil degradation in that interval (OCI). If you really want to extend the OCI send a sample in for testing/analysis (blackstone) so you know your additive package isn't being completely depleted and your viscosity index isn't changing drastically. Synthetic is a lot more shear stable than conventional, but still, running oil in a wet clutch and gears put different stresses on the oil than in a car engine. Hell, I don't even go that long on the cars - 10K OCI gets changed at about half of that. I don't bother with an analysis, just change it out.

BTW, I have a GM 8.1L in a RV chassis that are notorious for using a lot of oil - up to a quart in 1200 miles. I used this same breakin process as I always do and mine uses about a half quart in 3K miles. The only caveat for this motor is fuel consumption....it gets about 7.5mpg. At $5 a gallon it's $350 to fill the tank. OUCH!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:27 AM   #14615
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Heres my new baby picked her up on friday

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Old 10-15-2012, 10:49 AM   #14616
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Very nice!
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:25 AM   #14617
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Speaking of oil changes. Did my first one at 6k miles (bought bike used). Probably easiest bike ever for an oil change! Just make sure you have 8mm (if I recall correctly) hex bit.

I did find two aluminum washers doubled up from previous change though. Not sure if it was the dealer or previous owner... Dealer wouldn't surprise me one bit.

elan screwed with this post 10-15-2012 at 11:25 AM Reason: spelling
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:06 PM   #14618
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Wicked

I have 17,000 miles on my 2012 tiger 800 xc and it does not burn oil
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:07 PM   #14619
Evomx971
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12,000 mile valve check, TB sync, and newest map

Just thought I'd share some recent maintenance results:

In general, I do all my own maintenance, but about 6 weeks ago I took my 2011 800XC in to get the latest map since I was two behind and still on the original Arrow-ABS map. The new map might run a little crisper than the one I was on and I think I've picked up a couple mpg running it. Although I also think I now have to let the bike warm up for just a few seconds more on cold (less than 50F) mornings than I used to. Doesn't die or anything, just not as "happy". Not a big deal.

I had planned to do my own valve check but once I got the cam cover off, I discovered I really didn't have a set of feeler guages that would get down in there and the exhaust spec is pretty small. Seems like it falls between sizes in most feeler guage sets. What feeler guages are you guys using to check your valves?

I went ahead and put new plugs in since I had them. The old plugs looked good (very clean) but I could visually see some minor wear on the electrodes so glad I replaced them.

Went ahead and had the local dealer do the valve check and the TB sync. They found all the valves just barely tight. That surprised me. I've read of some guys finding a few tight at the first check, but haven't noticed anyone else finding them "all" tight. They set them at the loose side of the spec. I didn't hear if they actually had to adjust the sync on the throttle bodies or not. $220 for the valve adjustment and TB sync. Cheaper than I thought it would be. Of course, I had to take off the skidplate when I got home and clean up oil that must have ran down the front of the motor (I think they pulled the cam cover with the bike on the sidestand for some reason). It has just the tiniest bit more valve noise than before which would be expected. Runs as good or better than it ever has.

They want me to bring it in to do the shifter return spring recall that affects my VIN... might drag my feet a bit on getting that done. Haven't heard anything about that being a high priority to get done.

Keep posting up your results as you do your valve checks... interested in what others are finding.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:20 PM   #14620
elan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evomx971 View Post
Just thought I'd share some recent maintenance results:
I had planned to do my own valve check but once I got the cam cover off, I discovered I really didn't have a set of feeler guages that would get down in there and the exhaust spec is pretty small.
I don't know what the specs are off hand, but I had to order a decent set of feeler gauges a while back as most stuff locally was way too big. I think my smallest one is .05mm

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Horex-German...70648484668%26
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:27 PM   #14621
Evomx971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elan View Post
I don't know what the specs are off hand, but I had to order a decent set of feeler gauges a while back as most stuff locally was way too big. I think my smallest one is .05mm

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Horex-German...70648484668%26
Were you able to do yours with straight blade guages? Seems like it would have almost taken a guage with a 45-90 degree bend to get down to the valve tappet. Like with the set you sent, it goes from .30mm to .35mm to .40mm... off the top of my head, I was thinking the exhaust spec was like .325mm to .375mm. I'm probably being too cautious with the whole thing.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:40 PM   #14622
elan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evomx971 View Post
Were you able to do yours with straight blade guages? Seems like it would have almost taken a guage with a 45-90 degree bend to get down to the valve tappet. Like with the set you sent, it goes from .30mm to .35mm to .40mm... off the top of my head, I was thinking the exhaust spec was like .325mm to .375mm. I'm probably being too cautious with the whole thing.
I actually haven't checked the Tiger yet. I was just speaking from other bikes. My CRF is pretty tight, but I'm able to get it in there. I think I read from others that a 45 or 90 degree bend in the gauge would help out though.

If the specs do get into the thousandths and my gauges didn't, I'd just measure to the nearest hundredth on the looser side of the spec. Besides, most shims are in .05mm increments aren't they?

Just read this on: http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php?topic=3072.0

Quote:
Checked valve lash last week. 12,100 miles on Odo.

Intake were perfect, exhaust were right at the bottom of the range. I did not have the right shims so buttoned it back up and will bring to mid-range next time I get a chance.

BTW, Shims are of the 7.48 diameter variety.

Job was not difficult, just follow the manual. The only quirky part is that once the cam shafts are in, and before tightening up the camshaft ladder (hold down mont) you really want to put tension on the cam-chain. The book mentions putting tension on it, just not during the early part of the buttoning up phase. If you don't put tension on it, the chain "can" sorta bunch up between the cam gears at top requiring you to pull the camshaft ladder again. Other than that, the manual is excellent. Oh, and you really want narrower feeler gauges as the exhaust shims are tough to get to and the thick feeler gauges (.325 to .375 mm) don't bend very well if they are of the 1/2 wide variety. Even bent they are a pain to get a good reading. I picked up some 1/4 inch wide ones and they work great.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:41 PM   #14623
Rob Dirt
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Originally Posted by Evomx971 View Post
They want me to bring it in to do the shifter return spring recall that affects my VIN... might drag my feet a bit on getting that done. Haven't heard anything about that being a high priority to get done.
.
You will be kicking yourself if that spring breaks. Why risk ruining a ride? Just let them change it out. They will NOT dump the oil or anything else that should discourage you from getting the new spring. It would suck to try & ride home with the shifter stuck.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:46 PM   #14624
Evomx971
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Originally Posted by Rob Dirt View Post
You will be kicking yourself if that spring breaks. Why risk ruining a ride? Just let them change it out. They will NOT dump the oil or anything else that should discourage you from getting the new spring. It would suck to try & ride home with the shifter stuck.
Good point. Although, in general, when letting a shop work on my stuff, a little dumped oil is the least of my worries.
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:53 PM   #14625
elan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evomx971 View Post
Good point. Although, in general, when letting a shop work on my stuff, a little dumped oil is the least of my worries.
haha, Amen. I'm the same way. I'm actually waiting for a call back from my local shop to get this done as well. I wasn't sure if they had to dump oil or not, but they also confirmed they didn't.
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