Playing With Your Willy All Day

[XR4EVER]

Here is an article from JP magazine from a few years back.... I thought it might be helpful to someone out there.

[vtwin]

Thanks, I've been considering this. But since I've replaced all the brakes all round, I'll stick with it for a bit.

[WMD]

[XR4EVER]

Nice pic, and REALLY nice 3B. Where do you live that it is so green and snow-free? My 3B is chained up and has a plow stuck to it's snout, being tortured with snow removal till April. Best plow rig I've ever had though (aside from the tired 30 remaining horses under the hood).

[rmarkr]

Originally Posted by vtwin

Thanks, I've been considering this. But since I've replaced all the brakes all round, I'll stick with it for a bit.

Yes, thanks XR, that's useful info.
I had a fairly long battle with my brakes. After replacing some drums, turning others, new slaves and shoes, my brakes feel good, and will lock on the asphalt. A little trick that helped was to drill a few holes in the friction bearing surface of the drum. Also, the shoes must go in correctly (there are two ways). One more - the master cylinder needs supporting with a plate that attaches to the pedal pivot tube.

[WMD]

Originally Posted by XR4EVER

Nice pic, and REALLY nice 3B. Where do you live that it is so green and snow-free? My 3B is chained up and has a plow stuck to it's snout, being tortured with snow removal till April. Best plow rig I've ever had though (aside from the tired 30 remaining horses under the hood).

Pic was taken in my driveway in Pigah Forest NC. We have an abundance of evergreen here in the moutains with all the pine, holly and laurel. Hemlocks were my favorite conifer but unfortunately they are going the way of the Chestnut, there are very few still left.

[Hardware02]

Originally Posted by WMD

[vtwin]

Wiring question: My truck has a pig lead going to the ignition and light switch from the battery. I plan on putting in a fuse, what would the appropriate size be? I'm thinking something like 60amps. Just trying to prevent a car-b-q.

[H96669]

Don't think you need that many Amps but I don't know for sure. Get the meter out and measure the draw. Circuit breaker?? Something like this:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1550&ppt=C0172



Pretty common when installing winches and such on ATVs.

They are cheap, got one on my bike inside a little plastic project box and easy to add wires to if you need . I think I am using 8ga soldered on the battery terminal and then whatever to supply the load to the accessories.

[Jeffy]

Originally Posted by vtwin

Wiring question: My truck has a pig lead going to the ignition and light switch from the battery. I plan on putting in a fuse, what would the appropriate size be? I'm thinking something like 60amps. Just trying to prevent a car-b-q.

What are you running with the circuit? How many watts? Have a relay in there?

[vtwin]

In the old days, there used to be a fusible link in between the battery and the fuse panel, to protect in case the wire chaffed the firewall. The p/o installed a wire directly to the light switch and actually in the factory manual, does not show a fuse to protect against this main wiring. It's why I think it's a good idea installing one before going to the light switch. The ignition switch looks equally unprotected and I'll have to look into that as well. Can't get under the dash at this moment. This isn't exact, but you get the idea.





8 would be the engine/chassis ground, 9 would be positive, but straight to the starter in my case, but also has a pig lead going to the light switch. I want to add it there.

[XR4EVER]

20 years ago and I still remember like it was yesterday.... driving along, thought I smelled something funny, looked down and a pillow of smoke was rolling out from under the dash of my '70 CJ5. A day later, I learned how to re-wire an entire jeep.

[Jeffy]

Originally Posted by vtwin

In the old days, there used to be a fusible link in between the battery and the fuse panel, to protect in case the wire chaffed the firewall. The p/o installed a wire directly to the light switch and actually in the factory manual, does not show a fuse to protect against this main wiring. It's why I think it's a good idea installing one before going to the light switch. The ignition switch looks equally unprotected and I'll have to look into that as well. Can't get under the dash at this moment. This isn't exact, but you get the idea.

8 would be the engine/chassis ground, 9 would be positive, but straight to the starter in my case, but also has a pig lead going to the light switch. I want to add it there.

You can still get fusible links at most auto parts stores Many cars still use them between the alternator and the battery. If you're want into to modernize the wiring for safety, I'd go ahead and install a new fuse box from the battery. Then run relays for all the lights so you're not sending as many amps though the firewall to the switches. Not like there's that much wiring to do on an old Jeep.

[vtwin]

I did get and install an inline fuse for the light switch and glad I did. I wired up another temp gauge and soldered the lighting wires for the gauges, turned the lights on and the gauges lit up. Tried again and then heard a pop and my fuse did it's job. Whew! Will check out what happened this weekend.

Last weekend drove the truck 60 miles to a friend's house to do some work. He has a welder and some experience, which is like 100% more than me. He even had a blasting cabinet, two in fact.





He did a bunch of tack welds to the pieces I previously cut to fit. They strengthened the original piece and repositioned the shift holes to where I needed them.



Before...




After..



Yea, I know a little Frankenstein like and some day I'll put real beads on when I get my own welder, but it's functional. It does look better once it was painted black and even better still when I slap some carpeting on it.

[vtwin]

I tell you, driving on the freeway in an old truck is a real experience. And a very noisy one when the transmission tunnel has a lot of holes in it and the transfer case shifters rattle like crazy at cruising speed. Since the cover was off, I shimmed the two shifters of the excessive play. Also seems the tube that allows grease to lube the shifters is plugged, unfortunately, the tube would not clear the tunnel so I could clean it out of old grease. Since it was getting late, I had to button it all back up to close up for the night. I did slap some grease on the shifters anyway.