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Old 09-18-2010, 11:14 PM   #211
Jinx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain

52mm head bore with a 26mm and 30mm shaft size on the steering tube. found a timken l44645 and l44613 that is 51.986*25.987, but not much luck on the 30*52... any ideas?

going out right now to adjust the brake mount.... just adjust. it's not moving far.
Good a time as any to go dig through my notes as it is shed cleaning day anyways. I'll post what I have tonight. Cheers

OK Try this NTN 4TCR0643L/0643 NTN Narrow Section Steering Head Set Taper Roller Bearing 30x52x16mm SEALED MODEL

Yeah, when I was looking at this it was never going to be "drop in" easy, but it looked like the Honda gave the best options as both Suzuki and Yamaha have even bigger steering stem OD's

The Stock Guzzi Bearings:
  • Top & Bottom were 25mm ID x 52mm OD X 16.25mm H

The Stock Honda Bearings*
  • Top: Honda P/N 91015-KTB-005 26mm ID x 47mm OD X 15mm H

  • Bottom: Honda P/N 91016-KTB-005 30mm ID x 55mm OD X 17mm H

So, what do we need? Well, we need the Honda ID's with the Guzzi OD's and height

So that would be:
  • Top: 26mm ID x 52mm OD X 16.25mm H

  • Bottom: 30mm ID x 52mm OD X 16.25mm H

Top first: 26mm is a PITA. Pretty much Honda and Ducati uses them, the Hondas are generally ball bearings, and Ducati thinks everything they ever made was sharted out by the Blessed Virgin Herself on the Vatican steps...and price them accordingly.

But there is a high quality set for Timken taper roller bearings:
  • Cone: # L44613

  • Cup: # L44645

...which will work out to 26mm ID x 52mm OD X 15.5mm H, so at most a small shim may be required under the new cup to work the height out.

The other option would be to bush the upper steering head from 52mm to 47mm. Do-able, but a PITA again and probably wind up with Ducati bearings

It would be spectacularly convenient to just turn the top of the Honda stem from 26mm to 25mm so all The Guzzi stuff would just match up on top....but since that would be sweet, we can't do it. Honda runs the top threads right into the 26mm shaft.

The Bottom is even more challenging: Trying to get a 30mm ID in a 52mm OD is nigh on unpossible. Things just get too bloody tight. Except for that magic 4TCR0643L/0643 NTN

The other options for the bottom?

Jig up and if there is enough meat (probably isn't) bore the lower steering head from 52mm to 55mm and use a SKF 32006 X/Q (30mm ID x 55mm OD X 17mm H)

The other option is to turn the lower stem (above the lower T-Clamp) to 28mm, and use an SKF 302/28 X/Q (28mm ID x 52mm OD X 16mm H)

But if we can just buy the bearings....

PS - I never did get around to working out the changes in stem height, so let me know how that looks. Cheers

PPS - If those Brit-sourced NTN bearings are available...we should grab some


*Thank Christ Honda-san are such cheap bastards, and have been using this bearing set since the early Goldwings
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Jinx screwed with this post 09-19-2010 at 12:09 AM
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:47 PM   #212
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Addendum

30x52x16 also appears to be a Suzuki Item (Rm125, haven't sorted what year yet) Suzuki P/N 09265-30014 (should be pretty easy to cross ref from there)
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:16 AM   #213
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hey! that's cool. the ntn part looks skookum with that integral seal! i'm going to make some calls on monday to the local bearing guys. failing that i'll buzz suzuki on tuesday. the part number crosses to newer drz bikes. should be readily available.

machined up some collars to fit the gsxr1000 rear brake caliper and bracket tonight. it's going to fit really well! just need to make an adapter for the rotor (which has to be mounted turning the wrong way. hope that's ok), then make a torque arm with a couple spherical bearings from the caliper to the front end of the swing arm.

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Old 09-19-2010, 02:55 AM   #214
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Making the caliper sit on the underside will make a much more neat routing of the brakeline, it looks like it can't be turned? But it will also get dirty instantly.
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:31 AM   #215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Making the caliper sit on the underside will make a much more neat routing of the brakeline, it looks like it can't be turned? But it will also get dirty instantly.
that's where it's going. just took the photo in that location. the way it is mounted with the torque arm it can be turned any direction, except where it interferes with the swingarm... 6 o clock being the easiest for torque arm mounting.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:47 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
Photo angle or is that right fork tube bent?
Seems like the right slider is outta whack.

So far this build is very cool.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:55 AM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish
Photo angle or is that right fork tube bent?
Seems like the right slider is outta whack.

So far this build is very cool.
+1, looks like something is off!
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Old 09-19-2010, 01:28 PM   #218
GrauTier
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Caliper Mounting

From the looks of the bleeder location, the caliper is designed to be mounted at or near 12:00. Mounting it at any other location might make bleeding the system impossible.

Wouldn't it be just as easy to mount it at 12:00 and put the torque arm on the top of the swingarm?
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Old 09-19-2010, 02:53 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrauTier
From the looks of the bleeder location, the caliper is designed to be mounted at or near 12:00. Mounting it at any other location might make bleeding the system impossible.

Wouldn't it be just as easy to mount it at 12:00 and put the torque arm on the top of the swingarm?
Bleed, flip, mount. I haven't bled brakes in some time now, but depending on what Loaded comes up with, it wouldn't be that hard to remove the torque arm, position the bled nipple, bleed it, then reconnect it.
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:19 PM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B-Rod
Bleed, flip, mount. I haven't bled brakes in some time now, but depending on what Loaded comes up with, it wouldn't be that hard to remove the torque arm, position the bled nipple, bleed it, then reconnect it.
my thoughts exactly. the torque arm will be a simple rod with a spherical bearing on each end. 30 second removal time
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Old 09-19-2010, 06:20 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish
Photo angle or is that right fork tube bent?
Seems like the right slider is outta whack.

So far this build is very cool.
it does look whacked, doesn't it? i haven't looked too close at them... just hung them on the bike to snap that pic. the cbr they came off went down on the right side so that'd make sense... i'll have a look later.
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:22 PM   #222
Jinx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
it does look whacked, doesn't it? i haven't looked too close at them... just hung them on the bike to snap that pic. the cbr they came off went down on the right side so that'd make sense... i'll have a look later.
Optical illusion caused by the dark fork shields at the top of the sliders? The light lines on the tube look straight...hope that is the case
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:44 PM   #223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loadedagain
it does look whacked, doesn't it? i haven't looked too close at them... just hung them on the bike to snap that pic. the cbr they came off went down on the right side so that'd make sense... i'll have a look later.

Not that it matters at this point, but normally Honda's run the SHOWA sticker on the inside of the fork tube (toward the tire). What model did this come off of? From the looks of it. It looks like it was resprayed and the sticker added. The fork's casting are in the correct location.
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:10 PM   #224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish
Not that it matters at this point, but normally Honda's run the SHOWA sticker on the inside of the fork tube (toward the tire). What model did this come off of? From the looks of it. It looks like it was resprayed and the sticker added. The fork's casting are in the correct location.
someone seems to have rattle can'd them at some point. the stickers look like they're the originals put back on on the wrong side. the forks are off a 2004 cbr600rr.
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:13 PM   #225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinx
Optical illusion caused by the dark fork shields at the top of the sliders? The light lines on the tube look straight...hope that is the case
that's what i'm thinking also... worst case i put a new tube in it when it's apart for powder coating... if a complete leg is $100 i'm not worried.
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