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Old 08-06-2010, 11:19 PM   #106
AKoffroader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101
Thanks for all the responses people! This thread took has taken root!

Now, seeing as we have the bikes, and it's been decided that we are riding DR650's around the world, what are your suggested modifications to the DR650's?

I am looking for info concerning accessories and modifications that would be effective towards our goal of traveling the world. Feel free to voice your opinions, suggestions, and personal experiences with gear that you have used for the specific purpose of living and traveling abroad, extended motorcycle traveling, or other pertinent situations.

Our group efforts consist of the following accessories and modifications:

1) 4.9gl (or larger) aftermarket tank. IMS or Safari come to mind.
2) Aftermarket Seat. (Corbin, Sargent, etc.)
3) Bash plate. (Happy Trails, Moose etc.)
4) Hand guards. (Acerbis, Barkbusters, etc)
5) Rear rack. (OEM Suzuki, BBQ Rack, etc)
6) Rear case? or large duffel? (Ortlieb, Wolfman, Kriega, etc)
7) Handle Bar risers? Lowered Foot Pegs? Lowering link? (rider depending)
8) Fender Bag (toolkit? accessories? etc)
9) Tank Bag? (Wolfman? Kriega? Ortlieb?)
10) Upgraded shock? (Which kind?)
11) Air box mods? (Open it up? what to do?)
12) Lighting mods? (HID? LED?)
13) Tire choice? (Trail, Enduro, Street oriented?)
14) Gear? Jacket, Pants, Boots, Gloves? (Aerostitch? Klim?)
15) Kill switch removal[FONT=&quot]
1) IMS 4.9 is the best "all around" tank on the DR. Not too big, not too small.
2) Sargent! MotoAdventureGal (South America 2009 / 2010) had a Corbin on her DR at D2D, I have a Sargent. We swapped bikes. Both agreed the Sargent was more comfortable.
3) Ricochet skid plate.
4) Bark Buster Storms
5) Pro Moto Billet
6) Lockable top hard case (Happy Trails or Hepco Becker Gobi). Wolfman Expedition Dry Line soft side bags with DR racks.
7) Depends on you. Ride it a while and see if they're really needed.
8) Don't take the kitchen sink.
9) Small Wolfman enduro tank bag works with IMS tank.
10) Upgrade spring maybe. Shock if you have a spare $400.00 you don't need.
11) Maybe do the needle shim and air screw. After that it's a slippery slope to a TM40.
12) Most RTW'ers don't ride at night. Can do it for safety if you like.
13) Your choice here, most only go 5K miles before they're toast. Maybe something cheap like Kenda K270's. KLR crowd really likes them.
14) Bought a First Gear Kathmandue and really like it.
15) I'd take off the kick stand and clutch "idiot" switches.

Stock the bikes would make the trip just fine. It all comes down to how much $$ you want to put into them vs how much you want to put up with.

For my Africa trip I've knocked out all the wheel bearings and seals and replaced them with SKF (made in the USA) double sided sealed bearings and new outer seals (the kits sold on the internet are cheap Chinese made junk, buy U.S. or Japanese bearings) . Also pulled the steering head apart and re-greased it.

At 4K the sprockets were starting to "hook" a little (look at them closely) so I replaced them with hardened 4130 sprockets and new DID VM O ring chain.

One thing I want to KNOW before setting off on a long trip is that my wheel bearings and final drive are 100%!

Take care,

AK Greg
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Old 08-07-2010, 12:43 PM   #107
puntoMX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101
...Our group efforts consist of the following accessories and modifications:

1) 4.9gl (or larger) aftermarket tank. IMS or Safari come to mind.
2) Aftermarket Seat. (Corbin, Sargent, etc.)
3) Bash plate. (Happy Trails, Moose etc.)
4) Hand guards. (Acerbis, Barkbusters, etc)
5) Rear rack. (OEM Suzuki, BBQ Rack, etc)
6) Rear case? or large duffel? (Ortlieb, Wolfman, Kriega, etc)
7) Handle Bar risers? Lowered Foot Pegs? Lowering link? (rider depending)
8) Fender Bag (toolkit? accessories? etc)
9) Tank Bag? (Wolfman? Kriega? Ortlieb?)
10) Upgraded shock? (Which kind?)
11) Air box mods? (Open it up? what to do?)
12) Lighting mods? (HID? LED?)
13) Tire choice? (Trail, Enduro, Street oriented?)
14) Gear? Jacket, Pants, Boots, Gloves? (Aerostitch? Klim?)
15) Kill switch removal

What are we missing? What is ESSENTIAL? What is non-essential but nice to have? What do w NOT need?

--Alex
I never traveled that far like you are planning, but here is my list on that.
You are young people compared to most that travel that far thus you could
do with different setups, like change your seat yourself and NOT buying an
overpriced seat. So, here is my list:

1. Both IMS or Safari are good, personally I like the Safari better (larger)
but it's also more expensive.

2. Build your own seat, make it higher and wider where you like, there is lots
of info on the internet and you could save some cash with it that you
could invest in other equipment.

3. Ricochet are nice.

4. For hand protection buy something that protects your hands from the cold
and wet winds, Acerbis rally Pro PRO X-strong is what I like.

5. Rear rack self made or some one that knows how to weld, make it custom
to your needs.

6. Rear case and side cases: Pelican! This in combination with the custom
made rack. Everything will stay dry and dust free whats inside, they are
also hard to destroy AND the protect your bike. other option could be
custom made Alu boxes. (yes you get it, I don't like fancy aftermaket stuff).

7. Depends indeed how you like it, but start with the seat first before you
measure the rest.

8. Fenderbag is extra weight in front that is not needed, just build tooltubes
that can be locked with a key, by the way, tire-spoons; KTM curved ones
for 11.00USD each . Hand pump: Blackburn Mammoth 2 Stage Pump,
yes, small, but works great, I have the Blackburn Mammoth 3 Pump but the
2 Stage Pump is better. No need for large pumps.

9. tankbag, no idea there.

10. Stock shocks suck on the DR650, they are not enough adjustable and NOT
made for heavy loads, rear shock rebuild the original by Cogent,
front shocks are good to start with although the springs are a bit too soft;
re-valve and rebuild of the front shock would be best if you did it yourself
so you have the tools when it starts leaking, so, I would take some extra
seals as well with you (light and cheap). Oil can be bought everywhere.

11. keep the bike stock, this way it doesn't matter where you are, at what
sea-level, fuel, and what not more. If the carburetor has the brass plug
over the fuel mixture screw, drill that out, also, while you at it, get some
stainless steel Allen bolts for it. Extende fuel mixture screw would be nice
(don't recall if there is one for that model, but it must be). "shoke" cable
I would get writ off and buy a handshoke mounted directly onto the carb.
I use a Twin-Air filter as they are better than the stock, but it's not needed.

12. Lights, keep them color 4500-5000k, so it doesn't look that "blue", HID is
nice indeed but it's hard to find a good dual HID (Hi AND low) H4 bulb, note
that HID isn't legal in a lot of countries when it didn't came stock with the
bike. 80/100W Halogen bulbs are also a nice option, plus there is the "new"
HOD that seems to be a better halogen bulb... They are cheap to test, no
idea how good they are but I'm going to test one soon for myself.

13. Tires are personal I would say, I like my Metzeler Tourance but they suck in
mud/clay/grass, sure they are great on rocks and street! To bad they use
tubes, tubeless would be easier to fix with the right kit.

14. Fieldsheer clothing (doesn't break the bank) and Gearne boots is what I use,
gloves just plain and simple Fox Dirtpaw.

15. What AKoffroader said .

Well, thats the list for me, keep it simple, build what you can build yourself.
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Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come

puntoMX screwed with this post 08-07-2010 at 01:14 PM
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Old 08-09-2010, 03:29 PM   #108
puntoMX
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By the way, set the shock tension/preload right; make sure it has no pressure against the upper roller as that roller will snap. Also, roller upgrades are cheap, get some dual ball-bearing ones for 15USD each.

Now, check out this:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...ostcount=38280

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Suzuki DR650 '92
[Mods to do] Luggage system w/ Pelican 1520 (Thanks to inmate 685), or softbags
[Mods in the make] Tool tube with tools
[Mods done] 1 1/8" handlebar - KLR650 Shock on DR650s - ZX-10R directionals on DR650s - RMZ450 muffler on DR650s - Acerbis Mollsoft taillight - Trailtech Vapor – Twin Air - Metzeler Tourance - Tusk sealsavers - more to come
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Old 08-09-2010, 04:06 PM   #109
bigalsmith101 OP
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Hello Again,

Over the course of the past few days, I have been creating a list of accessories, modifications, gear, and parts/tools. I've included a base/mid-range price for every piece of equipment, with totals for the 4 categories, and a grand total of the 4 of them, including the purchase price of the motorcycle.

Here is a rough list of all the things that I could see myself ever wanting to have. I will most likely NOT be purchasing everything on this list (even though I want to) and will be searching for good deals, and making wise choices. Here's what the spread sheet looks like so far.

I've placed X's next to my preferred master list. What I would buy if I money wasn't an issue. I could probably shave $2000 off the ending value total of $9846, and most likely will. I'd like to head off around the world on an outfit that cost less than $7500 for everything. I know. I could by a $2000 stock bike, grab some clothes, some plastic bags and a backpack, but that's not the route we're choosing this time around.

What do you guys think of the list?

--Alex














Item # Bike Accessories Cost
Item # Modifications Cost
#1 Wolfman Expedition Dry Saddle Bags $ 210.00
#1 Center Stand $ 160.00
1.1 DR650 Wolfman Rack (for saddle bags ) $ 210.00
#2 Choke Carb Knob $ 14.00 X
1.2 SW Motech Pelican Mounting Rack $ 230.00 X #3 Large sized tank
1.3 DIY Pelican Mounting Bracket $ 185.00 X 3.1 IMS 4.9gl $ 249.00 X
1.4 Pelican Case 1440 x 2 $ 250.00 X #4 Stainless Steel Carburetor Screws $ 5.00 X
1.5 Pelican Case 1550 $ 275.00
#5 18" Rear Wheel $ 300.00
#2 Heated Grips $30-$50 $ 40.00 X #6 520 Chain/Sprockets $ 100.00
#3 Hand Guards $ 75.00 X #7 Heavier Front Suspension Springs $ 100.00 X
#4 Aftermarket Seat (Corbin, Seargent Renazco) $ 375.00 X #8 Heavier Rear Suspension Spring $ 127.00 X
#5 Luggage Rack $ 125.00 X #9 Lowered Foot Pegs (Tom/Alex) $ 140.00 X
#6 Tank Bag $ 125.00 X #10 Raised Handle Bars (Tom/Alex) 1" $ 35.00
#7 Skid Plate $ 80.00 X 10.1 Raised Handle Bars (Tom/Alex) 2" $ 52.00 X
#8 Spare Fuel Tank Bottle $ 20.00 X 10.2 Lowering Link (Kristi) $ 70.00
#9 Kolpin Fuel Pack Jr & Bracket $ 53.00
10.3 Shortened Side Stand (Kristi) $ 55.00
#10 Magnetic Drain Plug $ 12.00 X #11 Shortened Turn Signal Stems $ 1.00 X
#11 Tool Kit Bag/Roll or Tube $ 15.00
#12 Accessory Plug x 2 $ 20.00 X
11.1 Pelican Case Tool Box $ 30.00 X #13 Stainless Steel Oil Filter $ 65.00 X
11.2 Wolfman Tool Bag/Roll $ 25.00 X #14 Ball Bearing Chain Roller $ 15.00 X
#12 ScottOiler $ 135.00 X #15 Additional Fuel Petcock $ 25.00 X
#13 Wind Screen $ 75.00 X #16 Steel Braided Brake Lines Front $ 67.00 X
#14 Driving Lights
16.1 Steel Braided Brake Lines Rear $ 53.00 X
14.1 Denali Lights $ 296.00
#17 Extended Fuel Screw $ 19.00 X
#15 Communication Devices
#18 Fork Skins (Moose) $ 20.00 X
15.1 Scala Q4 x1 $ 276.00 X #19 Air Filter Upgrade $ 47.00 X
15.1 Scala Q4 x2 $ 470.00
#20 Stator Re-Wire $ 1.00 X
#16 Case Guards

Total $ 1,862.00
16.1 Ignition Guard $ 30.00 X






16.2 Oil Filter Guard $ 45.00 X Item # Gear/Clothes Cost
16.3 Clutch Case Guard $ 30.00 X #1 Jacket
#17 Trail Tech Vapor Kit Speedometer $ 125.00
1.1 AeroStitch Daren $ 427.00 X
17.1 Speedometer Drive Eliminator $ 40.00
#2 Pants
#18 Oil Filter Magnet $ 12.00 X 2.1 AeroStitch Darien $ 297.00 x




Total $ 2,611.00
#3 Gloves $ 125.00 X







#4 Boots $ 150.00 X
Item # Bike Parts/Tools Cost
#5 Helmet (Arai XD) $ 500.00 x
#1 Dual Sport Tires $ 100.00 X



Total $ 1,499.00
#2 Seals $ 100.00 X Bike $ 3,500.00




#3 Gaskets (Complete Set) $ 87.00 X Accessories $ 2,611.00




#4 Valve Adjusting Tool $ 11.00 X Modifications $ 1,862.00




#5 Steering Head Bearings $ 40.00 X Gear $ 1,499.00




#6 Wheel Bearings Front/Rear $ 36.00
Parts/Tools $ 374.00








Total $ 374.00
Total $ 9,846.00




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Old 08-09-2010, 06:02 PM   #110
AKoffroader
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Scott oiler.....

I talked with an outfit that does tours in Alaska, Africa etc. and also rents bikes. The mechanic I talked to said that after several years of testing, the chains on their bikes WITHOUT a Scott oiler lasted longer then the ones with.

His theory and observation was that the oily chain collected sand. The sand wore the rollers out.

I'd skip the oiler and just occasionally spray the chain with some dry chain lube.

AK
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Old 08-09-2010, 07:33 PM   #111
bigalsmith101 OP
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AKoffroader

I see you are near Anchorage. What do you think about the possibility of riding from Anchorage to Seattle around say, November? Is it complete insanity? Or doable?

--Alex
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Old 08-09-2010, 08:44 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101
I see you are near Anchorage. What do you think about the possibility of riding from Anchorage to Seattle around say, November? Is it complete insanity? Or doable?

--Alex
I'm in Seattle. I dunno about the weather in Anchorage, but here in Seattle it would be completely random. One year, it would be fine, the next nothing but storms. Definitely hard to plan something around.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:12 PM   #113
ManitouMike
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Although I know the wisdom of having the same bikes, I say get one of each and let us know during and at the end of the trip which one worked best.
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Old 08-09-2010, 09:17 PM   #114
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Originally Posted by ManitouMike
Although I know the wisdom of having the same bikes, I say get one of each and let us know during and at the end of the trip which one worked best.
+1000
screw you guys, it's all about us! LOL
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Oh for ***k's sake Aaron. Please link us to my fascist, racist or homophobic posts.
"Anyone who doesn't take truth seriously in small matters cannot be trusted in large ones either."
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Baja trip to the tip
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trials and tribulations in the Mojave
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:48 PM   #115
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not sure about that..

There are a few factors at play here. Oilers work when used properly. A couple of issues I have with this statement are:
- oilers need to be adjusted depending on the conditions (temperature, dust'iness')
- people hiring bikes probably don't think about that sort of stuff, they just get on a ride.
- chains on bikes without cushdrives don't live as long and tend to be used offroad where oilers become less efficient anyway (some of the companies advise turning them off during offroad sessions).

Remember a RTW trip is largely on road where an oiler will contribute to increasing the life of your chain for very little maintenance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AKoffroader
Scott oiler.....

I talked with an outfit that does tours in Alaska, Africa etc. and also rents bikes. The mechanic I talked to said that after several years of testing, the chains on their bikes WITHOUT a Scott oiler lasted longer then the ones with.

His theory and observation was that the oily chain collected sand. The sand wore the rollers out.

I'd skip the oiler and just occasionally spray the chain with some dry chain lube.

AK
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:57 PM   #116
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Assuming your last line is true (quoted below), then technically you need nothing. Of course, there are a few things almost everybody wouldn't go without, which are:

Luggage
Bigger Gas Tank
Seat Modification

You've got the tank and luggage picked out, and I think they'll serve you well. For seats, any of the choices will be comfortable - some more so, some less so, depending on each individual. I highly recommend you each try the bike you've bought that has the Corbin seat, and see how you like it, then make a decision from there. You can of course do your own seat modifications, but have a backup plan in case that doesn't work out. The good thing is you have a Corbin to use as a starting model.

Excluding modifications done for taller or shorter riders (i.e. - front and rear springs, lowering link, etc.) I'll comment only on those things I would definitely get (or not get):

Hand Guards - YES
Tank Bag - YES
Skid Plate - YES
Stainless Steel Oil Filter - YES (Very convenient - no shopping for filters in 2nd or 3rd World countries).


Scott Oiler - NO (carry a simple can of spray - foolproof)
Steel Braided Brake Lines - NO (unnecessary expense - brakes are fine stock)
Spare Fuel Tanks - NO (you should easily have all the range you need with an IMS tank) You can always pick up a fuel bottle somewhere if you feel the need for more range in certain areas.


Clothing:


Aerostich Gear - NO (Excellent gear for cooler climates only. You'll absolutely BOIL in it in hotter climates.) A Firstgear Kilimanjaro jacket/pants, or something similar that's waterproof and has good vents will see you through the whole trip. A non-waterproof jacket/pants with TONS of venting, or a mesh material jacket, combined with standalone rainwear will provide a wider range of comfort at the expense of having to swap/combine layers. A rain jacket in this situation is usable on or off the bike - one less item to take.

Helmet (Arai XD) - NO (based purely on price). There are several other companies making similar helmets that are just as good, at half the price. However, INDIVIDUAL FIT is the most important thing - make sure it's comfortable!


Other choices:

Windscreen - NO/MAYBE. I've crossed the continent a couple times both with and without a windscreen - and have been perfectly comfortable with or without it. Test the bike without (on the highway) and see how comfortable you feel.

Heated Grips - MAYBE. Heated gloves provide a far greater range of comfort and use the same amount of stator power, but aren't as convenient. Heated Gloves and a heated vest keep me comfortable to freezing temperatures quite easily, and I have terrible resistance to the cold. If you're undecided/unsure, grips are a reliable default at a low price.

Scala Headset - YES/MAYBE. Obviously not a "necessary" item, but I think this one item could go a LONG way into making your trip FANTASTIC. Being able to communicate/comment/talk/laugh as you ride would be amazing. I also think it'd make navigation/sticking together a TON easier in busy areas.


Those are my recommendations. Any further modifications/additions will cost you money but aren't absolutely "necessary" - although they all will provide some degree of comfort, or protection, or peace of mind, depending on your own desires.



Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101

I know. I could by a $2000 stock bike, grab some clothes, some plastic bags and a backpack, but that's not the route we're choosing this time around.











































Item #Bike AccessoriesCost


Item #ModificationsCost


#1Wolfman Expedition Dry Saddle Bags $ 210.00


#1Center Stand$ 160.00


1.1DR650 Wolfman Rack (for saddle bags ) $ 210.00


#2Choke Carb Knob$ 14.00 X
1.2SW Motech Pelican Mounting Rack$ 230.00 X #3Large sized tank


1.3DIY Pelican Mounting Bracket$ 185.00 X 3.1IMS 4.9gl$ 249.00 X
1.4Pelican Case 1440 x 2$ 250.00 X #4Stainless Steel Carburetor Screws$ 5.00 X
1.5Pelican Case 1550$ 275.00


#518" Rear Wheel$ 300.00


#2Heated Grips $30-$50$ 40.00 X #6520 Chain/Sprockets$ 100.00


#3Hand Guards$ 75.00 X #7Heavier Front Suspension Springs$ 100.00 X
#4Aftermarket Seat (Corbin, Seargent Renazco)$ 375.00 X #8Heavier Rear Suspension Spring$ 127.00 X
#5Luggage Rack$ 125.00 X #9Lowered Foot Pegs (Tom/Alex)$ 140.00 X
#6Tank Bag$ 125.00 X #10Raised Handle Bars (Tom/Alex) 1"$ 35.00


#7Skid Plate$ 80.00 X 10.1Raised Handle Bars (Tom/Alex) 2"$ 52.00 X
#8Spare Fuel Tank Bottle$ 20.00 X 10.2Lowering Link (Kristi)$ 70.00


#9Kolpin Fuel Pack Jr & Bracket$ 53.00


10.3Shortened Side Stand (Kristi)$ 55.00


#10Magnetic Drain Plug$ 12.00 X #11Shortened Turn Signal Stems$ 1.00 X
#11Tool Kit Bag/Roll or Tube$ 15.00


#12Accessory Plug x 2$ 20.00 X
11.1Pelican Case Tool Box$ 30.00 X #13Stainless Steel Oil Filter$ 65.00 X
11.2Wolfman Tool Bag/Roll$ 25.00 X #14Ball Bearing Chain Roller$ 15.00 X
#12ScottOiler$ 135.00 X #15Additional Fuel Petcock$ 25.00 X
#13Wind Screen$ 75.00 X #16Steel Braided Brake Lines Front$ 67.00 X
#14Driving Lights


16.1Steel Braided Brake Lines Rear$ 53.00 X
14.1Denali Lights$ 296.00


#17Extended Fuel Screw$ 19.00 X
#15Communication Devices


#18Fork Skins (Moose)$ 20.00 X
15.1Scala Q4 x1$ 276.00 X #19Air Filter Upgrade$ 47.00 X
15.1Scala Q4 x2$ 470.00


#20Stator Re-Wire$ 1.00 X
#16Case Guards





Total$ 1,862.00


16.1Ignition Guard$ 30.00 X




















16.2Oil Filter Guard$ 45.00 X Item #Gear/ClothesCost


16.3Clutch Case Guard$ 30.00 X #1Jacket


#17Trail Tech Vapor Kit Speedometer$ 125.00


1.1AeroStitch Daren$ 427.00 X
17.1Speedometer Drive Eliminator$ 40.00


#2Pants


#18Oil Filter Magnet$ 12.00 X 2.1AeroStitch Darien$ 297.00 x












Total$ 2,611.00


#3Gloves$ 125.00 X





















#4Boots$ 150.00 X
Item #Bike Parts/ToolsCost


#5Helmet (Arai XD)$ 500.00 x
#1Dual Sport Tires$ 100.00 X











Total$ 1,499.00


#2Seals$ 100.00 X Bike$ 3,500.00














#3Gaskets (Complete Set)$ 87.00 X Accessories$ 2,611.00














#4Valve Adjusting Tool$ 11.00 X Modifications$ 1,862.00














#5Steering Head Bearings$ 40.00 X Gear$ 1,499.00














#6Wheel Bearings Front/Rear$ 36.00


Parts/Tools$ 374.00


























Total$ 374.00


Total$ 9,846.00














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Old 08-10-2010, 12:20 AM   #117
AKoffroader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigalsmith101
I see you are near Anchorage. What do you think about the possibility of riding from Anchorage to Seattle around say, November? Is it complete insanity? Or doable?

--Alex
November is pretty late. We usually have snow by then. If not the passes you'll have to go through WILL have snow and below zero temps.

I wouldn't do it past mid October. If you come through here I'd be glad to help (big house, big shop).

Take care,

AK Greg
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Old 08-10-2010, 12:21 PM   #118
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Laugh

Now we are talking about "luxury" stuff and so, I would see if you get that front fender changed to a lower one as you won't be seeing much mud. This would be easier on the flat straights, less side wind pulling your frontwheel and turbulance of trucks an cars in front of you will be less hard to handle. It will result in relaxer driving. I've been thinking to do so on my bike as well.
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:02 PM   #119
Adv Grifter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edteamslr
There are a few factors at play here. Oilers work when used properly. A couple of issues I have with this statement are:
- oilers need to be adjusted depending on the conditions (temperature, dust'iness')
- people hiring bikes probably don't think about that sort of stuff, they just get on a ride.
- chains on bikes without cushdrives don't live as long and tend to be used offroad where oilers become less efficient anyway (some of the companies advise turning them off during offroad sessions).

Remember a RTW trip is largely on road where an oiler will contribute to increasing the life of your chain for very little maintenance.
Good notes on chain oilers!
I'm in the "No Chain Oiler Off Road" camp. As a nearly life long dirt rider its clear to me that an oily chain off road just collects grit and grinds the crap out of your chain and sprockets. Early death.

I've used oilers on road bikes (Loobman) and also made my own gravity feed one. About 50,000 miles worth. Used mostly on really long rides, like 5 to 6000 miles or more.

The huge mess an oiler makes is a factor. Why? People with auto oilers falsely believe they never need clean or maintain their chain. But even road riding, the constant oil means constant grit build up. This especially true under the countershaft cover. Big mess, hard to clean up.
The oiler washes away some grit but a lot sticks up under the countershaft cover and drops onto chain. Grinding paste.
Also, if an oiler is mal-adjusted it can puke oil onto your tire. So if you go that route, get it dialed in and then watch it!

In recent years I gave up on oilers. To big a mess, too little benefit. The current DID VM-2 X ring on my DR650 is up to 23,000 miles of pretty hard use. No chain oiler ever used on this chain. The one place an oiler really make sense is in rain riding. In constant rain oilers are great and will really keep your chain healthy. Very few lubes will stay on long in constant rain.

But now I just clean and re-oil my chain daily (or two) on long rides. In rain (not often) I'll use a wax or something that will stick better. But most times I'm using either Motorex Off road Synthetic chain lube or plain old 90 wt. Gear Oil.
90 wt. is cheap and plentiful world wide, is an excellent lubricant, stays put pretty well (about 500 miles between oiling) and is easy to clean up if you do it every day or three. The Motorex is very light and like Dupont Teflon, does not pick up a lot of grit. The Motorrex also stays on longer than the Dupont product. Good stuff.

But when it runs out, its back to 90 wt. I clean my chain with Kerosene, WD40 or even Diesel. (when out of country) Then oil lightly with 90 wt. Many riders OVER OIL their chain. Just makes more mess. Sealed X or O ring chains need only light oiling. Keeping it clean and grit & grunge free is the key to long chain/sprocket life, IMO.

Cleaning and oiling your chain on the road is a good chance to check out WEAR (sprocket, link) .... look for loose nuts, bolts, or whatever. So many riders riding in foreign countries seem to neglect to LOOK at their bike, especially the chain. Maybe all are former BMW riders?

Doing a bit of maintenance can help, you might catch something early, avoiding disaster.

Adv Grifter screwed with this post 08-10-2010 at 02:32 PM
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Old 08-10-2010, 02:23 PM   #120
ManitouMike
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I'm also in the no oiler camp. With sealed chains keeping clean with what ever is okay. IMHO it is much more important to have proper tension, want to see a chain and sprocket go quickly over tighten or run loose.
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