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Old 10-24-2011, 06:02 AM   #1666
Ginger Beard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustinP View Post
I'm adding the simple push button switch for on/off, as well as the dimmer module with high beam control. Would the switch go before (Battery side) or after (light side) the dimmer?


Place the switch between the battery and dimmer.

As stated , wiring the power leads for dimmer to a keyed power source will help lower the risk of draining the battery but if you don't "see" that you left these lights on you may have more of a problem than just a dead battery.
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Old 10-25-2011, 08:01 PM   #1667
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No led

Got my remote dimmer in 3 days there was no led indicator that I thought was part of the package deal.
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:42 PM   #1668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJRJO View Post
Got my remote dimmer in 3 days there was no led indicator that I thought was part of the package deal.
Why did you think it's included? When I ordered a dimmer, I didn't notice any package deals like that, bought the LED indicators separately.
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Old 10-26-2011, 06:03 AM   #1669
sanjoh OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJRJO View Post
Got my remote dimmer in 3 days there was no led indicator that I thought was part of the package deal.
There is an led on the remote fob that flashes when a button is pushed. Just above the large arrow key.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:43 AM   #1670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OaklandStrom View Post
I thought that might be it, but the picture doesn't match the schematic.
Where's the violet wire?

Honestly, I don't like the idea of a wireless dimmer. Can I set it to 50% and have it hit 100% when the high beams are on - then throw away the fob?
The picture of the dimmer module is the older one that didn't have the high beam bypass. That's the one I have....once I have the brightness is set where I want it, I throw the fob in one of my jacket pockets and forget which one it's in. The way you want to use it should work fine. I plan on upgrading to the new dimmer sometime here in the off season and will use it the same way.
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Old 10-26-2011, 08:28 AM   #1671
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Thumb Ok

OK misunderstood the post when the the dimmer with high beam feature was introduced. Everyone was ask what options would you want with the dimmer to indicate the lights where on or off,and once decided from input it would be included with the dimmer. Did I dream this? Its no big deal, I am pleased with the dimmer but wanted to clear this up.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:49 AM   #1672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FJRJO View Post
OK misunderstood the post when the the dimmer with high beam feature was introduced. Everyone was ask what options would you want with the dimmer to indicate the lights where on or off,and once decided from input it would be included with the dimmer. Did I dream this? Its no big deal, I am pleased with the dimmer but wanted to clear this up.
There is a panel mount led indicator available here


If put in line with your LED aux lights the panel led will be on when the lights are on. As an additional bonus the indicator led will glow brighter when you increase the output to your lights from the dimmer and vise versa.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #1673
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Bluhduh

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
ADVmonster is set to release our wireless dimmer with the high beam bypass.

Hit the high beams and your LED lights go to full power, independent of the dimmer.

You still get all the benefits of the wireless dimmer


We are considering an add on led indicator to let you know when the lights are on.

If you had this led, where would you mount it?

Panel mount
Integrated with a switch
goop mount
other?
"We are considering an add on led indicator to let you know when the lights are on."
This is what made me think the led would be included. I have looked at it on your web site and would have ordered it but this is why I didnt.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:08 PM   #1674
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I'm Russian, but in my understanding of English, "add on" means something not included, something available as an optional accessory.
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Old 10-28-2011, 12:20 PM   #1675
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Originally Posted by heilong View Post
I'm Russian, but in my understanding of English, "add on" means something not included, something available as an optional accessory.
+1, I'm pretty sure that's the way I would have read it.

If it had read "We are considering adding on an led indicator" then it would have been different.
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Old 10-29-2011, 07:43 PM   #1676
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Need some collective wisdom here:

Have revamped my lighting system with new lights (again).

Curly one (for me) - the digital voltmeter - instructions on the box say Red +, Black -, Blue + Signal. Got me beat how that works, with my limited electronics knowledge. What I have done is connected the voltmeter to the + & - of the *battery* side of the dimmer and connect the blue signal wire to the + red wire on the *lights* side of the dimmer. However when I activate the lights and vary the power output via the dimmer the voltage remains the same so I am assuming it is reading the battery voltage at 12.2v regardless on how weak I have the lights. Everything else works. Just can't get the voltmeter sorted.

Anyone? Sanjoh? (have emailed this question privately as well, but thought that it would be a good idea to put it out there in case anyone else has a problem)

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Old 10-29-2011, 08:15 PM   #1677
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PWM dimmer

The dimmer is a PWM, Pulse Width Modulator. It doesn't reduce the voltage like a potentiometer but it basically cycles or "pulses" the voltage. So you are always going to see your 12v. Hope that's good enough for ya.

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Old 10-30-2011, 01:08 AM   #1678
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If you search ebay for "panel led volt meter" or "panel lcd volt meter", you will find there are two kinds of voltmeter - the first kind have just two wires, they measure the voltage that's also supplying them with power. The other kind has two wires for powering the voltmeter itself, and the other two wires that can measure voltage in a completely different circuit. The second kind usually accepts a narrow range of voltage for power (e.g. 9-12V), but can measure a much wider range on the load (e.g. 0-200V). The voltmeter sold by ADVMonster is of the second kind, with the power/signal grounds connected together inside. If you just want to monitor your electrical system's voltage, it makes sense to just connect the blue wire to the red one. As have been said, you can't measure the PWM dimmer's output power using a voltmeter. If you connect a small panel-mount LED in parallel with your lights, the LED's brightness will be some indicator of the dimmer's setting. All this uncertainty about the current power levels, plus the dimmer size, led me to make my own dimmers. I've bought the ADVMonster's dimmer but then decided to not use them, due to the size and not liking the remote control very much. I've got some 12V 8A dimmers in plastic enclosures from ebay, ditched the enclosures, changed the potentiometers to sealed panel-mount ones, connected the pots to the dimmers by soldering longer wires to them, and sealed the dimmers using small plastic enclosures and special silicone compound for sealing PCBs etc. It's somewhat flexible when cured, totally waterproof and should protect both from moisture and vibration. The dimmer modules are at least half the size of the remote-controlled ones (maybe even less), with external disconnectable rotary pots that one can mount on a panel. The high beam bypass function is handled by an additional (replaceable) sealed relay that is external to the dimmer and is integrated into the bike's wiring. The same dimmer can also be used for heated grips or clothing (if they don't exceed the 8A rating). I've made three such dimmers - one for the lights, one for heated grips, and a spare one. My wiring is made uniform, so if, for example, my lights dimmer fails while I'm on the road, I can just unplug the heated grips dimmer and use it instead to control lights (and vice versa), or plug the lights directly into the connector that should normally power the dimmer.
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Old 10-31-2011, 12:32 PM   #1679
Ginger Beard
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I will be doing a dimmer and volt meter install within the next few days. It will be a picture tutorial on my KLX300. Sadly due to a stator that puts out power slightly north of a potato battery I will only be a able to run 1 Model 30.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:42 PM   #1680
viz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nero View Post
The dimmer is a PWM, Pulse Width Modulator. It doesn't reduce the voltage like a potentiometer but it basically cycles or "pulses" the voltage. So you are always going to see your 12v. Hope that's good enough for ya.

Nero
Guys thanks for the info - just had it confirmed that the voltmeter wont do what I wanted... Oh well - I am sure that I will find a use for it, somewhere. Still cannot work out what the signal wire is for...

Please note that while I can work my way around a simple electrical system, anything that involves more than a vacuum tube has me beat...

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