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Old 01-31-2012, 03:02 PM   #1981
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:39 PM   #1982
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Seems to be working fine on this end. If it continues to give you an issue please email me at dave@advmonster.com
Okay. Weird. Didn't work for me earlier. Works now though

But still, before I buy, I'm interested in finding a switch that is a simple wired toggle, know of anything that would work?

I'm not too sure how your lights work, lowering the input, or using PWM like clearwater does, or maybe something entirely different.....
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Old 01-31-2012, 04:59 PM   #1983
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I'd also be interested in a simple dimmer. I don't need a key fob, or 200 adjustment points... I was a dim mode (say, 50%, but I'm not peticular) and a full on mode. I'll just be wiring them into my headlight... dim mode on low beam, full power on high beam.
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Old 01-31-2012, 05:03 PM   #1984
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Okay. Weird. Didn't work for me earlier. Works now though

But still, before I buy, I'm interested in finding a switch that is a simple wired toggle, know of anything that would work?

I'm not too sure how your lights work, lowering the input, or using PWM like clearwater does, or maybe something entirely different.....

Hey FP,

If you want to run some type of manual PWM that will work just fine. One thing to note is that they are a bit awkward to use in adverse situations like when it is cold out and you are wearing winter gloves or when your gloves are covered in mud ( not sure how I know that ) . We spent some time testing a manual PWM but for both of these reasons,among others, we decided to go with the FOB switch. I know that an FOB as a light switch seems weird at first but it works great with the features that out dimmer has. Because the dimmer has a last setting memory you can find a desired dimmed output and forget that you even have a fob. The reason that this works is that our dimmer has a High Beam Bypass that lets the light go to full power when a separate external switch is armed. This can be either your factory high beam switch or some other external switch. I decided I wanted to keep my FOB handy so I bar mounted it. Works great like that. Here's a pic of the FOB on my bars.

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Old 01-31-2012, 07:34 PM   #1985
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Hey FP,

If you want to run some type of manual PWM that will work just fine. One thing to note is that they are a bit awkward to use in adverse situations like when it is cold out and you are wearing winter gloves or when your gloves are covered in mud ( not sure how I know that ) . We spent some time testing a manual PWM but for both of these reasons,among others, we decided to go with the FOB switch. I know that an FOB as a light switch seems weird at first but it works great with the features that out dimmer has. Because the dimmer has a last setting memory you can find a desired dimmed output and forget that you even have a fob. The reason that this works is that our dimmer has a High Beam Bypass that lets the light go to full power when a separate external switch is armed. This can be either your factory high beam switch or some other external switch. I decided I wanted to keep my FOB handy so I bar mounted it. Works great like that. Here's a pic of the FOB on my bars.

Thanks for the pic. I guess I'm just worried about what happens when the fob's battery runs out and you don't have a spare handy since it seems it doesn't use a common size battery looking at the battery you're selling for it for $2.50.

Would kind of suck if it was stuck on at full power and you had to get somewhere in the night

Okay. One more question. I'm considering getting 4... besides it probably being an overkill of light, can one of the dimmers control both pairs simultaneously if I tap/splice the wires?
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:57 PM   #1986
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But still, before I buy, I'm interested in finding a switch that is a simple wired toggle, know of anything that would work?

I used a simple "mini toggle", soldered up the wires, heat-shrinked the connections as well as the body of the switch and its done well for over a year, in poring rain and all!
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Old 01-31-2012, 08:32 PM   #1987
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I used a simple "mini toggle", soldered up the wires, heat-shrinked the connections as well as the body of the switch and its done well for over a year, in poring rain and all!
Do you have high and low capabilities, or just on and off? I'd like to be able to have them run at reduced power during the night time, and full power during the day....
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Old 01-31-2012, 09:56 PM   #1988
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Do you have high and low capabilities, or just on and off? I'd like to be able to have them run at reduced power during the night time, and full power during the day....
The toggle works to power the lights, not dim them.
There are a ton of pages in the beginning of this thread. Summary is that a pulse width modulator is required to dim LEDs. From there its use the ADVMonster unit, build your own, or buy one from ebay and wire it as necessary. Simple route is to go with ADVMonsters. The High beam bypass makes it simple!
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Old 02-01-2012, 06:16 AM   #1989
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The beam pattern of the 44 and 60 don't seem all that focused already; they have nice spread. I don't think an additional lens would benefit them at all.
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:00 AM   #1990
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The beam pattern of the 44 and 60 don't seem all that focused already; they have nice spread. I don't think an additional lens would benefit them at all.
Don't get me wrong but it's a "flashlight" beam, no? Very long reach, not that this would be bad but sometimes a very wide beam is beneficial as well..
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Old 02-01-2012, 08:59 AM   #1991
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Just ordered a set of Model 44s Can't wait for them to get here.

Did the price on those just recently go back up? I thought they were cheaper a few days ago.
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Old 02-01-2012, 11:09 AM   #1992
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Just ordered a set of Model 44s Can't wait for them to get here.

Did the price on those just recently go back up? I thought they were cheaper a few days ago.
Yeah, they were $80 a few days ago

I'm still on the fence, once I find a suitable switch/dial or am convinced the keyfob won't be an issue when the battery runs out, I'll be springing for a pair.... or two
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:36 AM   #1993
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Yeah, they were $80 a few days ago

I'm still on the fence, once I find a suitable switch/dial or am convinced the keyfob won't be an issue when the battery runs out, I'll be springing for a pair.... or two

We had a beginning of the years sale on our Model 44's that ended on 1/31/2012.

The inmate code still applies to all non-sale items.



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Old 02-02-2012, 11:22 AM   #1994
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when I look at the pool pics, it looks like the 30's actually light up corners of the pool better. Is that just the way the light is refracting in the pool?
So what do you recommend, two 60's or a blend with a spot on one side and a flood on another?
thanks
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:48 AM   #1995
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Hey guavadude,

I think that it is the exposure time on the pictures making it appear that the 30 is lighting up the pool better. The pictures of the lights pointed at the fence are a better representation of actual light output. the pool pics are more for showing beam angle.


If you have the power for it ,go for 2 floods. They project very far and will give you light up close and to the sides...Where the critters hide!

Dave
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