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Old 02-02-2012, 11:11 AM   #1996
tallguy-09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Beard View Post
Hey guavadude,
I think that it is the exposure time on the pictures making it appear that the 30 is lighting up the pool better. The pictures of the lights pointed at the fence are a better representation of actual light output. the pool pics are more for showing beam angle.
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Ginger Bread: Pool pictures showing "beam-angle" are an all time classic :-)
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Old 02-02-2012, 11:20 AM   #1997
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Originally Posted by Low594 View Post
The toggle works to power the lights, not dim them.
There are a ton of pages in the beginning of this thread. Summary is that a pulse width modulator is required to dim LEDs. From there its use the ADVMonster unit, build your own, or buy one from ebay and wire it as necessary. Simple route is to go with ADVMonsters. The High beam bypass makes it simple!
We rigged up something on my dad's R100RT (which has an anemic alternator) so that with a flip of a switch the lights would change from being wired in parallel to be wired in series. Running in series in affect makes each one act like a resistor for the other one, resulting in reduced power consumption and reduced brightness. I'm not sure if this would work for LED lights or not. I think it would.

Or you could do something a little simpler and just switch-in a resistor when you want them dimmed. It wasn't an option for us, because we were using incandescent lights which would draw a lot more current, and would have required a huge (high wattage) resistor. For a set of LEDs you could use a 20w power resistor from radioshack for about $1.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:12 PM   #1998
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Originally Posted by tallguy-09 View Post
Ginger Bread: Pool pictures showing "beam-angle" are an all time classic :-)
Maybe I will change my name to Ginger Bread. The older I get the more fitting it will become.
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:29 PM   #1999
Low594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zirconx View Post
We rigged up something on my dad's R100RT (which has an anemic alternator) so that with a flip of a switch the lights would change from being wired in parallel to be wired in series. Running in series in affect makes each one act like a resistor for the other one, resulting in reduced power consumption and reduced brightness. I'm not sure if this would work for LED lights or not. I think it would.

Or you could do something a little simpler and just switch-in a resistor when you want them dimmed. It wasn't an option for us, because we were using incandescent lights which would draw a lot more current, and would have required a huge (high wattage) resistor. For a set of LEDs you could use a 20w power resistor from radioshack for about $1.
Read the thread and you will find much debate on using resistors for dimming LEDs.
I believe the summary was that the LEDs have a narrow band of volts that will turn them on, where a standard bulb will glow dimly at 3 volt a LED wont be on yet.
Maybe you have a new idea that will work, but it seemed everything had been tried. Several self professed Electrical Engineers were part of the discussion. Give it a shot and let us all know!
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Old 02-02-2012, 08:24 PM   #2000
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Originally Posted by Low594 View Post
Read the thread and you will find much debate on using resistors for dimming LEDs.
I believe the summary was that the LEDs have a narrow band of volts that will turn them on, where a standard bulb will glow dimly at 3 volt a LED wont be on yet.
Maybe you have a new idea that will work, but it seemed everything had been tried. Several self professed Electrical Engineers were part of the discussion. Give it a shot and let us all know!
You would be wasting your time. A pulse width modulator is the only way to properly dim an
LED. Trust me.

The voltage vs current curve can be seen at

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...e-IV-Curve.svg.

You can see at a certain point the current avalanches very quickly. Trying to play at the knee of the curve with a series resistor for adjustment is unpredictable at best when your alternator is constantly changing the supply voltage. PWM's are cheap and small anyway. No, not as cheap as a resistor, but then sometimes you have to pay a little for something that actually works.
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Old 02-02-2012, 10:16 PM   #2001
FYYFF
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Need help changing the glass

Hi Sanjoh,

I need help on how to replace the broken glass on your LED's. I do not want to break it while trying. Do I unscrew the front of the light? I didn't force it but it looks though. If that's the way to do it, mine must be stuck...
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:39 AM   #2002
Ginger Beard
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Originally Posted by FYYFF View Post
Hi Sanjoh,

I need help on how to replace the broken glass on your LED's. I do not want to break it while trying. Do I unscrew the front of the light? I didn't force it but it looks though. If that's the way to do it, mine must be stuck...

To unscrew the lens bezel at the front of the light you are going to need a pair of strap wrenches.



Dave
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:43 AM   #2003
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Originally Posted by FYYFF View Post
Hi Sanjoh,

I need help on how to replace the broken glass on your LED's. I do not want to break it while trying. Do I unscrew the front of the light? I didn't force it but it looks though. If that's the way to do it, mine must be stuck...
How did the glass break?
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:00 AM   #2004
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How did the glass break?
My goldfish bump into it...
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:02 AM   #2005
FYYFF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ginger Beard View Post
To unscrew the lens bezel at the front of the light you are going to need a pair of strap wrenches.



Dave
Thanks Dave. Once I replace the lens and screw the bazel, it is gonna be as tight and strong as before?
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Old 02-03-2012, 09:23 AM   #2006
Ginger Beard
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Originally Posted by FYYFF View Post
Thanks Dave. Once I replace the lens and screw the bazel, it is gonna be as tight and strong as before?

Just be sure to seat the o-rings properly and you should be good to go. Be careful not to pinch them especially the one for the lens itself. It is very thin.
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:13 PM   #2007
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PWM's are cheap and small anyway.
I don't know about small. I mean, a resister is small, a relay... smallish... a 2 1/4"x 1 1/8" x 3/8" box isn't small when I'm looking to hide it on a small dual sport with no fairing.

That being said, it's what I'll go with. Tune it with the keyfob to my low beam, then leave the keyfob at home. Lights will always be on (low beam) with the key on, then the high beam bypass kicks it up to full power. If they go crazy on me while I'm out (without the keyfob), I'll just pull the fuse.
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Old 02-03-2012, 04:42 PM   #2008
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FYYFF_ someplace in the last 2000 posts there's a link to a detailed dis-assembly procedure for these lights. Worth finding.

Some silicone dielectric grease from RadioShack would be good on the o-rings and threads too.
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Old 02-04-2012, 07:59 AM   #2009
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Originally Posted by Mikef5000 View Post
I don't know about small. I mean, a resister is small, a relay... smallish... a 2 1/4"x 1 1/8" x 3/8" box isn't small when I'm looking to hide it on a small dual sport with no fairing.

That being said, it's what I'll go with. Tune it with the keyfob to my low beam, then leave the keyfob at home. Lights will always be on (low beam) with the key on, then the high beam bypass kicks it up to full power. If they go crazy on me while I'm out (without the keyfob), I'll just pull the fuse.
Sounds like you see the key fob controller as the biggest issue. Why use it? My PWM tunes with a knob, set and forget. I have a relay triggered from the high beam which bypasses the PWM for full bright on the LEDs. As far as the size, you can run your wires to anywhere on the bike - tailpiece, sidecover, underseat area. Heck, put it in a tank bag or tailbag if you have to. If you want to actually fiddle with the brightness then put it on your bars. The one I bought is not waterproof so I did my best to squirrel it away.
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Old 02-05-2012, 04:52 AM   #2010
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60's on a KLR

Man oh man do I love these lights. These are the 60's---I just can't believe how they make daylight out of dark.
I've just got them wired to come on with my bright beam-----the first time I went back to my ordinary low beam
I first thought my low beam had burned out-----it was that much difference.

I think I'll pull the 200 watt halogens off my 950 and replace them with these---they are much brighter and of course draw way less current.



I mounted them very solidly to the bolts that support the fairing on the side----very solid.
I am one happy camper.
The only modification to the lights I did was to replace the bolt for aiming the light with one that has hex heads instead of the
phillips head, and I used a locking nylon nut---and put a spacer in the middle to keep from pinching the bracket together when tightening---this made for very easy adjustment of the light.
I used to have an HID on my old Husky 610----I like this a lot better.
Those deer will run when they see me coming down the road.



I'm not posting any pics of the lights working.
Low Beam-------just imagine a full moon night.
High Beam------just imagine broad daylight on a sunny day.
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