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Old 04-18-2012, 06:18 AM   #2281
sanjoh OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youkiddin View Post
looking for some help with replacement o-rings for these lights,anyone have part/item numbers or size that i need.I saw that my outside ones are starting to crack and i don't think i've seen a size listed in this thread yet,thanks
Please contact me sandjoh@gmail.com I have replacements available.
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Old 04-18-2012, 06:29 AM   #2282
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Originally Posted by Burnszilla View Post
I have two clearwaters on my GS for promiscuity while lane splitting.
So the clearwaters are a real babe magnet?
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Old 04-18-2012, 04:49 PM   #2283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Are you saying the single Model 30 has more throw than a pair of Denalis?
To my eyes, yes. The D1s have the OEM 15 degree lenses in them, making the lights great for "see me" in the daytime, and really lighting up the road for about 30-40 yards in front of the bike at night. They're nice and bright, but they just don't have the "throw" of the Model 30. I tried removing the D1 lenses to increase their range (supposedly a 10 degree beam), but that left a bit of slop in the retaining ring that I didn't like, so I left them in. They're well-built, and I like them very much, but again, to my eyes, they just don't have the throw of the Model 30.

My single Model 30 effectively reaches beyond my hi-beam (and yes, my headlights are adjusted properly) and really lights up the center of the road. It's at fork level and aimed parallel to the road, which is the most useful position for my purposes. So, I rely on the D1s plus my lo-beam for virtually all my commuting needs, and when I'm on a really dark stretch of road with no one in front of me, I smoke the pavement with my hi-beam plus Model 30. Works great for me!







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Old 04-18-2012, 10:13 PM   #2284
sanjoh OP
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Originally Posted by Whistler View Post
To my eyes, yes. The D1s have the OEM 15 degree lenses in them, making the lights great for "see me" in the daytime, and really lighting up the road for about 30-40 yards in front of the bike at night. They're nice and bright, but they just don't have the "throw" of the Model 30. I tried removing the D1 lenses to increase their range (supposedly a 10 degree beam), but that left a bit of slop in the retaining ring that I didn't like, so I left them in. They're well-built, and I like them very much, but again, to my eyes, they just don't have the throw of the Model 30.

My single Model 30 effectively reaches beyond my hi-beam (and yes, my headlights are adjusted properly) and really lights up the center of the road. It's at fork level and aimed parallel to the road, which is the most useful position for my purposes. So, I rely on the D1s plus my lo-beam for virtually all my commuting needs, and when I'm on a really dark stretch of road with no one in front of me, I smoke the pavement with my hi-beam plus Model 30. Works great for me!
Well stated, thanks for the followup.
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Old 04-23-2012, 02:56 PM   #2285
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Looking forward to meeting a few of you FFs at the Georgia Mountain Rally May 4-6 in Hiawassee, Ga. We will have some smoking deals if you are in the neighborhood.
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:16 PM   #2286
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Set up on the dimmer, about 40% for day riding, 100% on high beams. No LEO has ever given me a second look - except that one coming at me in the middle of the night on 395 at 11pm and 26 degrees on an SS1k. Bastard lit me up with radar so I HighBeamed him.

No, wait. I high beamed him, THEN he lit me up.

feck. I think. Mighta been a UFO screwing with my radar. It WAS 395 at night though.
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Old 04-24-2012, 07:28 AM   #2287
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Those all look nice and the performance is pretty impressive for the cost. However, based upon my experience, the longevity of the LEDs will not be the limiting factor to the life of the light unit. Mine was cut substantially short by the driver board: maybe 100 hours with very limited trail time.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:44 AM   #2288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Looking forward to meeting a few of you FFs at the Georgia Mountain Rally May 4-6 in Hiawassee, Ga. We will have some smoking deals if you are in the neighborhood.
I'll see you there John, I'll be on vendors row too. Not sure we can get any more lights on the rig though.....
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:04 AM   #2289
sanjoh OP
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I'll see you there John, I'll be on vendors row too. Not sure we can get any more lights on the rig though.....
Look forward to meeting you.
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:55 AM   #2290
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First off, I want to make a point about how much I love these lights. I've had them for over a year and they have made a noticeable difference in both my visibility to others and my ability to see the road ahead at night. A truly remarkable light source.

Now, the issue I have is that I have broken the original mounts, then, purchased the heavy duty mounts, and, have now broken one of those.

No crash or impact, just vibration and, well, my riding style, seem to bring these to an early demise.

I have broken the foot of one of the mounts as well. A little pie-shaped piece cracked off the base. The point of the pie starting from the mounting hole.

The lights are mounted inboard on the crash bars of my KTM 950 Adventure, so they are well protected and securely fastened. I have heli-coiled the aluminum mounts after having the threads strip trying to keep the mount foot from rotating on the bar clamp. This seems to have fixed the issue I was having with that bolt coming loose.

I had to "pin" the foot into the unused mounting hole with a small sheet metal screw to effect a surer method of keeping the SS foot from rotating on the aluminum mount.

Seemingly, there may be a little vibration generated by the V-twin that is inducing these loosenings and the metal fatigue failures.

So, are any of you other inmates experiencing similar issues, and, most importantly, have you found a reliable method to address them?

I've got an email off to John regarding this as well and look forward to getting it resolved as I simply love the lights.

This being an ADV-style of light, I'm hoping that I can find a way to make it work more reliably on a bike that does go other places than Starbucks, sometimes at ridiculous speed, occasionally with the front wheel suspended above the riding surface, while at other times with both wheels slipping the bonds of earth, ever so briefly.

UPDATE: John and I are collaborating on the mount failures and with any luck we'll come up with something. Again, great service from ADVMonster!
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:17 AM   #2291
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I'm running them on a 990 adv, dirt and street, and have had no mount-related issues.

To avoid having to overtighten the mount bolt, I used a star washer between the foot and the (bike) mount.

Running them under the triple on a blackdog mount. Just about 4k miles mixed use and just upgraded the lights, so have to start counting over....stock mounts on the last set, HD on the model 60s that are on there now...

Steve
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:47 AM   #2292
MotoTex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alleycatdad View Post
I'm running them on a 990 adv, dirt and street, and have had no mount-related issues.

To avoid having to overtighten the mount bolt, I used a star washer between the foot and the (bike) mount.

Running them under the triple on a blackdog mount. Just about 4k miles mixed use and just upgraded the lights, so have to start counting over....stock mounts on the last set, HD on the model 60s that are on there now...

Steve
Thanks Steve,

I tried the star washer method thinking that would solve it, and they still rotated and loosened the bolt. It surprised me. This was with loctite on the threads. That was about when I stripped them trying to get things just a little tighter than they should be.
(Edit: It seems that I have the older, original bar mounts. These have been superseded at ADVMonster by a new version that is designed better for the application.)

The triple tree mount would isolate from engine vibration, but doesn't seem do-able for my bike with a high fender. Maybe I could use the fender mounting bolts and a custom bracket to put them on either side of the high fender. Have to check for turning clearance.
(Edit: having looked at Black Dog's mount that is what I'm describing. I was thinking of CJ's fork tube mounts that won't work)

The other option would be mounting to the fairing, or, cobbling up an isolation mount on the crash bars somehow. Not interested in drilling holes in the fairing, so that's out.

I have considered getting an Allen set screw and driving it up from the bottom in the extra mount hole to press against the foot. It would probably take a few on-and-offs to get the beam alignment right, but it might hold it.

Drilling a hole and pinning it with a sheet metal screw ended up with the beams pointing a little across each other as I didn't drill the holes exactly where they needed to be. Best to have adjustment for that axis I think.

Well, that's a run down on what I've tried and what I've considered.

Again, I appreciate the feedback about what has worked for others.
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Old 04-25-2012, 05:18 PM   #2293
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Feedback

Just a quick shout out for Sanjoh. Although, I had some problems with the early model LEDs, ADVmonster's customer support and service have been outstanding.

Some of the issues were likely self imposed,like running the lights alongside an aftermarket HID conversion on a poorly suspended bike that sees triple digits offroad, for expample.

John answered calls, returned emails and offered solutions. He's a good guy to business with!

Rick
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:02 PM   #2294
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Mototex,
Have these mounted on my 990's HB crashbars, inboard too. I made up plates with u-bolts that clamp to the bar, then screwed the supplied SS mounts to these plates. I have 2-3000 miles on them, no hardcore offroad but a lot of fast dirt and gravel up to and including redline. No issues yet, and I have the light duty mounts.
Have you tried holding the bars lightly while revving the engine, to see if they are vibrating badly?
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:37 PM   #2295
Callahan
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PICS pics,,,, just a couple would be great
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