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Old 06-03-2012, 09:04 AM   #2386
C-Stain
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Location: Canoodia, eh?
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Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
That's the first reasonbly priced light bar I've seen. How has it held up?
It's been on for a year, over the TLH and survived numerous "naps". So far so good!
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Old 06-04-2012, 11:23 AM   #2387
sanjoh OP
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Another satisfied customer.


Wow
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Old 06-06-2012, 09:15 AM   #2388
GP1200
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Thanks for your business, look forward to the pics. Contact me if you need any install help.



Will be available next week, parts are on the way so we can build em.
I noticed your manual dimmer is available. How does this mount to the bike ? I own a 2010 GSA
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Old 06-06-2012, 10:22 AM   #2389
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I noticed your manual dimmer is available. How does this mount to the bike ? I own a 2010 GSA
The rotary dimmer is a surface mount. You can use double sided tape, velcro, silicone or your choice. Here it is mounted on a BMW F650. The box is velcroed to the brake master cylinder.

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Old 06-06-2012, 10:31 AM   #2390
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Rotary Dimmer question

Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
The rotary dimmer is a surface mount. You can use double sided tape, velcro, silicone or your choice. Here it is mounted on a BMW F650. The box is velcroed to the brake master cylinder.

Does the Rotary Dimmer also function as - OFF, turn(click) to On, turn up to full brightness , type of control ?
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:20 AM   #2391
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Does the Rotary Dimmer also function as - OFF, turn(click) to On, turn up to full brightness , type of control ?
Yes, however it has a high beam bypass so you get the dimmed setting while having full power available with your oem switch. I recommend using a switched power source that comes on with the bike so you don't need to turn it off and on each time you are on/off the bike.

The dimmer uses pulse width modulation to dim the lights so it is very efficient.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:33 PM   #2392
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Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Yes, however it has a high beam bypass so you get the dimmed setting while having full power available with your oem switch. I recommend using a switched power source that comes on with the bike so you don't need to turn it off and on each time you are on/off the bike.

The dimmer uses pulse width modulation to dim the lights so it is very efficient.
Sanjoh,

Thanks for the answer.

I am going to be putting additional lights on my bike soon for backcountry night vision. Maybe your Model 60 LED x2.

Trying to keep the number of switches/wiring/electronics to a minimum, i.e. I already have several items which I think is enough.

Also molding/building a carbon fiber dash panel to mount items on, as listed left to right row by row.
top row - Roll Chart Holder (lighted) - GPS - Odometer (lighted)
bottom row - WaterResistant 12v Power Socket - Push Button WaterResistant Power Switch for lights to R.C.H. & Odo. - Push Button WaterResistant Power Switch for power to GPS with Red Snap-In LED Panel Mount Indicator mounted above it - Rotary LED Dimmer (hopefully no additional switch needed) - USB WaterResistant (double) Power Socket (lighted)

Sanjoh and or anybody , Correct me if I am wrong here, please as I am on a XR-R , with no battery , not looking for a High Beam Bypass , not looking to put on a power switch to LED lights , i.e. if the Rotary Dimmer will dial all the way to off, which is what I think Sanjoh has already answered.
- Power from Stator to Regulator/Rectifier to Dial Switch Controller to Diode (protected) Relay to Light/s

Callahan screwed with this post 06-06-2012 at 01:04 PM
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Old 06-07-2012, 04:56 AM   #2393
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which is what I think Sanjoh has already answered
Which part of Yes is not clear? Have you bothered to read the product information ?

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I am going to be putting additional lights on my bike soon for backcountry night vision. Maybe your Model 60 LED x2.
Addtional Lights with 2 model 60s You won't realize you have other lights once the 60s are on.

Why waist your time, just go for our Dual Sport Faring with 2 Model 60s in it, you won't need any additional light. Sounds like whatever you are using is not meeting your needs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Callahan View Post
Power from Stator to Regulator/Rectifier to Dial Switch Controller to Diode (protected) Relay to Light/s
No need for the relay on your suggested wiring. I will suggest you put in a large capacitor to absorb some of the lows and highs of the charging system, I'm sure you've seen the large thread on XRR electricity.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:26 AM   #2394
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LIKE THIS PIECE OF INFO,
Rotoray detent in off position.

Why waist my money as I may not want to spend more money on another dual sport kit and the two lights.

Have you considered I might like to have the current DS kit on one power 125W output and MAYBE your 60's on the other 125W power output. I have had a problem with Stator power before and crash more often at night (particularly when in silt/sand),

I guess as you are a salesman (?) I would think you would applaud the idea of more lights on a bike.

Thank you for the suggestion of the Capacitor.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:47 AM   #2395
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Originally Posted by sanjoh View Post
Which part of Yes is not clear? Have you bothered to read the product information ?



Addtional Lights with 2 model 60s You won't realize you have other lights once the 60s are on.

Why waist your time, just go for our Dual Sport Faring with 2 Model 60s in it, you won't need any additional light. Sounds like whatever you are using is not meeting your needs?



No need for the relay on your suggested wiring. I will suggest you put in a large capacitor to absorb some of the lows and highs of the charging system, I'm sure you've seen the large thread on XRR electricity.
Is there a pic of this dual sport faring? Pricing also? I don't see one on your website. TIA!
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:00 AM   #2396
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Is there a pic of this dual sport faring? Pricing also? I don't see one on your website. TIA!
Check this thread for more info, including ballpark pricing. Not on the website yet, look for it next week

Thanks for the interest.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:12 AM   #2397
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Originally Posted by Callahan View Post
LIKE THIS PIECE OF INFO,
Rotoray detent in off position.

Why waist my money as I may not want to spend more money on another dual sport kit and the two lights.

Have you considered I might like to have the current DS kit on one power 125W output and MAYBE your 60's on the other 125W power output. I have had a problem with Stator power before and crash more often at night (particularly when in silt/sand),

I guess as you are a salesman (?) I would think you would applaud the idea of more lights on a bike.

Thank you for the suggestion of the Capacitor.
I don't need to sell anyone lights and no I'm not a salesman, I have a degree in Engineering and Math.

I am passionate about what I do! What I do know is that I would rather ride a bike that has less weight, any time you add something to a bike, well guess what, you just increased the weight. Having had an XRR for many thousands of miles, the fairing would work well and fix your lighting issue, while providing other benefits like reducing the electical load on the stator.

Now if you would just spend more time on your XRR you might figure out where I'm comin from

From yesterdays (Wednesday about 2:00pm) ride
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:16 AM   #2398
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I have a degree in Engineering and Math.

]


and a PHD in Patience
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Old 06-09-2012, 04:27 PM   #2399
MotoTex
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Mount Installation Problems

Received the new bar mounts, thanks!

They look great and are significantly better than the originals. I particularly like the way you have keyed the platform to which the light attaches. Very nicely done.

I'm having a problem with the installation though.

I'm using the middle sized spacer, which fits my crash bar OD perfectly. When holding the spacer halves on the bar the mating surface is a machine fit and the spacer halves have a few millimeters of compression space where they meet.

When I tighten up the two Allen head bolts to clamp things together the bolts tighten the clamp halves together solidly before any pressure is put on the spacer.

End result, the bolts are tight and the clamp halves are touching where the bolts go through, but, the clamp halves are loose against the spacer. The clamp can just spin around the spacer and the bar without restriction.

Looks like one half of the clamp could use less metal at the mating surface around the bolts so it can come together far enough to contact the spacers before it contacts the other half of the clamp.

The next larger spacer diameter is much too small for the bar, and of course the thinnest spacer (for larger diameter) is much looser once the clamp is bolted tight together.

Am I missing something obvious on this installation, or is it possible that this part was not machined to the design specification?
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Old 06-10-2012, 04:56 AM   #2400
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Sometimes the spacers can fit fine on the crash bar. If the bar diameter is just a bit undersize it will leave the clamp a bit loose. A couple of options: add some tape to the crash bar or to the spacer, effectively increasing the diameter or remove some of the aluminum between the clamp halves.
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