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Old 11-15-2010, 10:46 PM   #526
univibe88
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I want some floods :)
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:06 AM   #527
lwm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duster19
If we are adding to our want list of these lights, I'd love to see the flood lights go up to 36 watts. This would be way less then most Halogens and about the same of most HID lights. I'm sure the extra 12 watts would help with throwing more light down road.

Is it even possible to see if the manufacture of these lights could up the watts some?


Thanks,

Dave
Hmm. Have you actually tried the 24 watts? They are crazy bright.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:12 AM   #528
pyrate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heilong
Hey guys, can anyone confirm these are now supplied without the connectors? I really hoped for these AMP SuperSeal connectors.
I might not use mine if you want them. I should know for sure by Monday.
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Old 11-16-2010, 09:47 AM   #529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrate
I might not use mine if you want them. I should know for sure by Monday.
I realized I wanted more of the things once I had used them, so I looked around and found something similar ('Accel' branded) on Amazon for $2.20 a set. They came complete with instructions.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:17 AM   #530
pyrate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
I realized I wanted more of the things once I had used them, so I looked around and found something similar ('Accel' branded) on Amazon for $2.20 a set. They came complete with instructions.
Crap...now maybe I should look at these. I originally didn't want to use them as it is just another spot to troubleshoot should the lights go out. My only thought though is if for some reason the lights get out of phase then this is the easiest solution to put them back into phase vs cutting connectors or solder. But maybe it is just better in case there is a reason to remove the lights etc.

Might these be the connectors you were mentioning?

http://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-74812-We...sr=8-1-catcorr
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:25 AM   #531
JDLuke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrate
Crap...now maybe I should look at these. I originally didn't want to use them as it is just another spot to troubleshoot should the lights go out. My only thought though is if for some reason the lights get out of phase then this is the easiest solution to put them back into phase vs cutting connectors or solder. But maybe it is just better in case there is a reason to remove the lights etc.

Might these be the connectors you were mentioning?

http://www.amazon.com/ACCEL-74812-We...sr=8-1-catcorr
That's the one.

I decided that in the interest of maintenance and modularity, I should put those inline outside of the gray plates. However, that would prevent REMOVING the gray plates without an additional quick-disconnect inside. So I wound up with two disconnects for each aux light. So far it has worked a treat.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:30 AM   #532
pyrate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JDLuke
That's the one.

I decided that in the interest of maintenance and modularity, I should put those inline outside of the gray plates. However, that would prevent REMOVING the gray plates without an additional quick-disconnect inside. So I wound up with two disconnects for each aux light. So far it has worked a treat.
Yeah, you have a special set up w/ the routing of your wiring. I am just running mine in between the seams of the headlight & dash so hopefully that will work okay.

Instructions for the connectors? Surely not!!
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:32 AM   #533
sanjoh OP
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The connectors are no longer included with the lights.

Lights should be back in stock in 2-3 weeks.
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Old 11-16-2010, 10:42 AM   #534
cccbarkbuster
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Got to try em in the dry darkness this morning! No one flashed me though @ 300am there`s not much traffic but the folks that are out at that time are pretty sensitive to brights on. I got the spot aimed right down the right tire track and shoulder and by itself matches the range of the stock high beam but floods the road with whiter light and drowns out the high beam on that half of the road. When i crank up the 24 it fills in where the low beam shines. The stock low throws a wider spread but it is dim compared to these. When there all on signs reflect brighter and much farther away. Picked up a deer grazing in a ditch on the left side of the road with its ass to me that I otherwise would never new was there. These made me realize how marginal the stock lights are on my Uly so can`t wait to get the hid`s from ddm tuning. I got these so I could see and be warm with my electric jacket and the charging system can handle my grips jacket and all the lights. The Wally world light these replaced were also bright and filled in behind the high beam but drew to much power and didn`t go deep like the spot. The flood out shines the 2 55watt Wally lights on 1/4 the power! I just hope the mounting brackets can hold up to the Uly`s many ranges of vibes.They seem delicate and may fatigue over time. At idle the bike shakes a lot but smooths with revs. Happy camper i am l8r cccbb
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Old 11-16-2010, 11:33 AM   #535
heilong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyrate
Crap...now maybe I should look at these. I originally didn't want to use them as it is just another spot to troubleshoot should the lights go out. My only thought though is if for some reason the lights get out of phase then this is the easiest solution to put them back into phase vs cutting connectors or solder. But maybe it is just better in case there is a reason to remove the lights etc.
You should use the supplied AMP connectors, mate. These are so wonderful I drool over them :) I know a local shop that sells these, I've got some of them (replacing all the connectors on my bike with them), but now it seems I'll have to go to that shop and buy some more. They're around 3$ for a 2-position connector kit. Not too expensive, considering I live in Russia and everything is usually at least 1.5-2 more expensive than in USA.
You have already listed two of the most important reasons to use them - fixing the out of sync problem (if it ever occurs to you) and disconnecting the lights if you ever need to do it.

Those ACCEL connectors you have mentioned seem to be rebadged Delphi&Packard Weather-Pack connectors - these are also super good, on the same level as AMP connectors.

heilong screwed with this post 11-16-2010 at 11:53 AM
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Old 11-16-2010, 01:17 PM   #536
Neil E.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sanjoh
New model has 3 levels of dimming built in. Based on the 24watt version, the dimming is controled by cycling power (on/off) for less than 2 seconds. Each power cycle reduces the light output, goes back to full power after the last power cycle.
A check on the three level dimming re this scenario:
Operating on HI
push button goes to MED
push button goes to LO
then push button it goes back to HI?
Power off at any level, always comes back on at HI?

I might prefer to be always on MED, then have two buttons, one to go to HI and one to go to LO.

Is the switching rate fast enough that if I accidentally went back to HI (oncoming riders on the trail), could I get it dimmed to MED or LO quick enough to avoid blinding them?

Neil E. screwed with this post 11-17-2010 at 11:32 AM
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Old 11-16-2010, 01:21 PM   #537
pyrate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E.
A check on the three level dimming re this scenario:
Operating on HI
push button goes to MED
push button goes to LO
then push button it goes back to HI?
Power off at any level, always comes back on at HI?

I might prefer to be always on MED, then have two buttons, one to go to HI and one to go to LO.

Is the switching rate fast enough that if I accidentally went back to HI (oncoming riders on the trail), could I get it dimmed to MED or LO quick enough to avoid blinding them?
From sanjoh:
"the dimming is controled by cycling power (on/off) for less than 2 seconds"

Seems that would all depend on how quick you are on the switch right? Or how quickly your switch operates. Some are probably easier than others.
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Old 11-16-2010, 03:45 PM   #538
heilong
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil E.
A check on the three level dimming re this scenario:
Operating on HI
push button goes to MED
push button goes to LO
then push button it goes back to HI?
Power off at any level, always comes back on at HI?

I might prefer to be always on MED, then have two buttons, one to go to HI and one to go to LO.

Is the switching rate fast enough that if I accidentally went back to HI (oncoming riders on the trail), could I get it dimmed to MED or LO quick enough to avoid blinding them?
The light itself doesn't have any push buttons, it just has a power and a ground wire. Let's say you've connected the power wire to a switch (button), and connected the other end of the switch to +12V. Now if you turn that switch on, the light will be on (in HI mode, for example). Turn the switch off and the light powers off. If you turn the switch on again faster than in 2 seconds, the light will go into the next power mode. Switch off and on again fast enough and it will switch into the next mode again. However, if you switch off, wait for more than 2 seconds, then switch it on, it will turn on in the last used power mode.
You can't really do anything more complicated than this, because the mode switching logic is inside the light, and all you can do is to turn the power to the lights on and off. This is the reason I'm gonna install the single-mode flood lights and use an external LED dimmer to control the brightness when my headlight is on low beam. And when the headlight switches to high beam, a relay will direct full power to the lights, bypassing the dimmer. This wiring has been discussed earlier in this thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=434

heilong screwed with this post 11-16-2010 at 03:51 PM
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Old 11-16-2010, 04:39 PM   #539
Neil E.
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Heilong,
Thanks for that explanation. That sums it up nicely about the built-in logic. I completely missed that the mode change was by main power switching.
Based on this, I would only consider the single mode unit and rig up an external circuit. PWM is the best way to go for this (I use it a lot in industrial control work).
A resistor network would be more compact than the pot once a dimmed setting has been chosen.
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Old 11-16-2010, 05:08 PM   #540
robsmoto
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I connected my LED lights using Posi-Lock wiring connectors. These are easy to deploy and undo, if necessary. I found the blue ones worked quite well.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posilock.html
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