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Old 12-15-2010, 02:13 PM   #706
univibe88
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Location: Taxachusetts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robsmoto View Post
The spacer needed is about 19.8 mm. A 3/4-inch nylon spacer for #10 screws will have a length of a shade over 19 mm. One could add a washer (a thin m4 stainless wave washer works very well) to get a snug fit (and hold the spacer in position). Thus, there is no need to cut or machine anything.

I also replace the phillips (which is an m4 x 30mm stainless) screw with either a stainless steel socket (or button socket) cap screw (still m4 x 30 mm). I also use an m4 stainless stop (aka nyloc) nut to keep things tight. These parts are all found at my neighborhood ACE hardware store.

The nylon spacer is white. I use flat black paint on the bracket, spacer, screw, and nut.
Thank you!
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:29 PM   #707
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Sucking up the pride...a couple dumb questions upcoming. My electrical/wiring/soldering skills are quite basic. Actually, that's putting it kindly...dangerous is probably closer to the truth. ;)

I've got everything on order, went with fixed 24W. I'm planning on using the dimmer/low - high/high method in JamesK's wiring diagram, but two things aren't obvious to me.

First - I don't see any description of the 5-way relay used, but I'm assuming it's a SPDT - correct? If so, what amperage rating should one use?

Second - I've received my dimmer, but am not sure yet whether I'll separate the knob from the board as JamesK did. If I do, is it a simple desoldering job? Just remove whatever that backing material is, and get to work on the solder joints? If so - what is that backing material, and/or what would one replace it with after putting everything back together?
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:17 PM   #708
viz
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Canbus Question

Gonna hook up 2 x 24 watt floods & 2 x 10 watt spots = 68 watts = ~6 amps.

For a trigger source I was thinking of using a single wire tapped off the high beam +ve to a handlebar switch (in Oz you MUST be able to independently turn on/off driving/aux lights) and thence to a diode protected relay and then to earth.

Any Canbus issues with that idea? Or should I run a return earth to the high beam -ve side?

TIA

viz
(doing it this weekend - pix to follow...)
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Old 12-18-2010, 04:25 PM   #709
syspig
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I'm not the first to hook these up to an 08+ KLR, but I've come up with a mounting option that I think will work well. It's solid, in a well protected location, and it's a direct bolt on - doesn't require any holes be drilled anywhere.

However...a caveat that might rule this option out for many - it won't work with a stock KLR front fender. It's working for me in the location shown below, as I'm using a lowered fender attached to an EM fork brace. With the stocker in the upper location, the fender hits the lights as the forks turn.

With a lowered fender in place, you can use the existing screw hole that connects the upper fairing to lower. All that is needed, are a couple M6-20mm machine screws/washer/nylocks. I added rubber washers to the mix, to give the fairings a little added protection from impacts...but the lights are tucked in pretty well.

No report on functionality yet, I'm currently in the middle of a bunch of upgrades. But, it's very solid, and looks like they'll have room for any needed adjustment left/right or up/down using this mounting location.

I'll report back in a few weeks once things are back together.


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Old 12-19-2010, 06:02 PM   #710
devrodirt
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Syspig,
Could you send me a pic of the lowered fender? I've not seen one and would like to get a look.
Or point me towards some pics please.

I do think your light mounting is about perfect.
I have lights ordered and figured I'd work on the mounting problem once I get them.

Did you get the fender from EM?

Thanks
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:41 PM   #711
syspig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devrodirt View Post
Could you send me a pic of the lowered fender?
Here are a few:

http://i.min.us/ibwxTY.jpg
http://i.min.us/id7ZiY.jpg
http://i.min.us/ibwvLQ.jpg
http://i.min.us/ibrZh2.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by devrodirt View Post
Did you get the fender from EM?
No, but he recommended the one to use that you see in the above pics. It mounts up fine to his fork brace, but does take a bit of trimming...5 minutes with the Dremel. It's an Acerbis KTM fender, Tucker Rocky p/n = 73-6081 for black. Should be able to get it ordered up just about anywhere for under $30 - I know ThumperTalk sells it.

Also, if you don't care for the look/function of a lowered fender - somebody else mentioned over at KLRWorld, that the stock fender might work with a spacer underneath it. From my eyeballing of things, that's probably true...looks like it would take a 1.5-2" spacer.
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Old 12-19-2010, 07:05 PM   #712
acejones
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You do know that your directional signals are probably going to be worthless when these things are on. Too much light concentrated in one area.
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Old 12-19-2010, 07:59 PM   #713
devrodirt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syspig View Post
Here are a few:

http://i.min.us/ibwxTY.jpg
http://i.min.us/id7ZiY.jpg
http://i.min.us/ibwvLQ.jpg
http://i.min.us/ibrZh2.jpg



No, but he recommended the one to use that you see in the above pics. It mounts up fine to his fork brace, but does take a bit of trimming...5 minutes with the Dremel. It's an Acerbis KTM fender, Tucker Rocky p/n = 73-6081 for black. Should be able to get it ordered up just about anywhere for under $30 - I know ThumperTalk sells it.

Also, if you don't care for the look/function of a lowered fender - somebody else mentioned over at KLRWorld, that the stock fender might work with a spacer underneath it. From my eyeballing of things, that's probably true...looks like it would take a 1.5-2" spacer.

Thanks a bunch, you saved me a lot of time looking.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:11 PM   #714
syspig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acejones View Post
You do know that your directional signals are probably going to be worthless when these things are on. Too much light concentrated in one area.
Agreed, that's a concern. However, based on the pics I've seen in this thread - it doesn't seem like separation buys you much, regardless of where these are placed. Particularly with the wider pattern and higher power of the floods.

Hopefully between adequate dimming and aim, I'll be able to mitigate it somewhat. If not - turning them off as needed is always an option.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:23 AM   #715
PhysioWorks
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They arrived last week. This week i ll put them on the bike an post some photos. I checked them and they are very bright even under the mediteranean midday sun!!
Thanks John!
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:43 PM   #716
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I've had the 10W lights for a few weeks but just got around to mounting them Saturday. Easy wiring on the GS using the wire around the diagnostic plug. I cannot believe the difference these things make. Now I just need to adjust the beam and I'm all set.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:17 PM   #717
emreturkeli
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Cry Syncronisation Problems...

I installed my 3 modes dimmables after long time waiting for relays, parts, etc... Finally, everything is perfectly installed, I used the switch that Sanjoh was selling, it's a really compact and nice switch...

As I was getting used to the 3 mode version, I really liked it actually and started to think that having the single modes, and adding a dimmer, etc might not be necessary... But the problem is, every time that I ride with my lights, depending on the circumstances on the road I'm changing the mode by slight presses to the switch, but somehow after a few switching, the LEDs losing sync!

This is driving me crazy... Does anyone else is having this problem?? and how can I solve it, since this problem makes the light useless..
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:23 PM   #718
trasko
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Swap for non-3-mode?

I have a pair of never-installed 3-mode 30Ws. If there is anyone who'd like to do a straight-up trade for a pair of non-dimmable please shoot me a PM.
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:39 AM   #719
univibe88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matts1050 View Post
Which to get? 10 or 24 Watts. I rarely drive a t night. I'm looking for lights that will make me visible more then extra road illumination.
I would go with the 10 watts. I have the 24 watts on my bike. I have them tied into my high beams. For laughs I tried aiming them down into a "low beam" type position.

If you angle them down enough not to dazzle oncoming drivers, you will get glare off the road at night. The 24 watts will throw too much light down right in front of you. I did not like it at all and would not want it set up like that all the time.
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Old 12-21-2010, 12:45 PM   #720
Kenadian
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Second time out of Sync

I just returned from a short ride and my lights are out of sync! This is the second time this has happened in around 500 miles of riding. The first time I unsoldered the connections and re-synched them and put a quick disconnect on the ground for one of the lights. I will be able to more easily re-sync them by disconnecting that light. That is the good news, but the bigger issue is why is it happening? I don't think it is practical to have to do this regularly.
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