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Old 03-04-2011, 08:22 AM   #16
D0N
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Nice job! I don't know if it's your camera or not, but your orange looks more like a red.

Here's my original 72 with 600 miles.

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Old 03-04-2011, 12:17 PM   #17
GypsyWriter
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Nice bikes you guys! I thought that the reserve tanks in the back didn't come standard until the later 70s though? Still, less than a thousand miles each - you guys need to go ride those babies more!!!
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:48 PM   #18
wanna bECO
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Wow, good thing we aint neighbors, i'd be buggin ya all the time!! And I think in a way you are right about the powder coating, but the rattle can might look the same at first, but you are gonna appreciate the money spent on powder over the long haul. This paint will stand up better, you'll see.

And to Don and Scott, you just aint riding enough.... Put me in your will for your bikes.
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Old 03-04-2011, 02:57 PM   #19
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.... Put me in your will for your bikes.

Long line already......no kids, so there will be a lucky friend or two.

Several are VERY spoken for.
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Old 03-04-2011, 05:06 PM   #20
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Several are VERY spoken for.
I made reservations for us to go sky diving, I packed your chute myself...
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Old 03-04-2011, 06:57 PM   #21
robertjludwigsr
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nice restoration

I did my 74 k5 a year ago powder coating the whole deal came out great. If you have not sugggest you replace the oem rectifier with a radio shack full wave rectifier better charging and your battery will hold a charge longer. Cost less than 5 bucks. get rid of the lead acid battery and replace with a Werker 6vlt 5amp hr glass matt battery. No more acid on the bike eating the paint and everything else up. Its available from batteries plus on line. These are great fun bikes on road and off top end 50 to 55mph and in the low range very capable of handling the steeps.
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Old 03-05-2011, 08:16 PM   #22
Woodsrat
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So how were the forks on your rebuild? I've yet to see a set that didn't have bad tubes. A set I'm rebuilding right now have the chrome worn off on the sides in roughly an oval shape, probably as a result of misalignment at the factory during assembly. Dunno if they're going to be oil tight or not--we'll see. New ones are $250+ per pair.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:47 PM   #23
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Ok I too have a 72 ct90, all the parts are present but in rough shape. I am working on the Carb right now and would like to know what the brass vent tube? on the right side of the carb is for? I'll try and get a picture posted to help show it. I know where the fuel lines go and the drain, the other tube ??? Is it a vacuum port?
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:49 PM   #24
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It's a vent for the float bowl. Should have a tiny hole in it. Don't plug it up or attach a hose to it.

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Ok I too have a 72 ct90, all the parts are present but in rough shape. I am working on the Carb right now and would like to know what the brass vent tube? on the right side of the carb is for? I'll try and get a picture posted to help show it. I know where the fuel lines go and the drain, the other tube ??? Is it a vacuum port?
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:51 PM   #25
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Cool I hoped that was it and I was not missing some impossible part. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:58 AM   #26
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Eh?

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spooge tank hooked up for rust removal

Hi, I have been browsing and I have run into other rust removel tricks, one simular to what I think your doing in this photo. Can you please explain what is happening in this photo, the process involved. please
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:03 PM   #27
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tank rust removal

What he is doing is essentially electrolysis; using a DC current (apparently, 12v in this case), the tank is connected to the positive lead (acting as an anode) and the negative lead is placed in the liquid filled tank as a cathode. The flow of electrons from the tank to the cathode actually slowly removes metal (and rust) from the inside of the tank, as it collects on the cathode. The liquid must be conductive, so there may be an additive of some sort. This is the same concept used to chrome metal parts.
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Old 06-26-2013, 02:28 AM   #28
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?
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:11 PM   #29
heliyardsale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbishoppcm View Post
What he is doing is essentially electrolysis; using a DC current (apparently, 12v in this case), the tank is connected to the positive lead (acting as an anode) and the negative lead is placed in the liquid filled tank as a cathode. The flow of electrons from the tank to the cathode actually slowly removes metal (and rust) from the inside of the tank, as it collects on the cathode. The liquid must be conductive, so there may be an additive of some sort. This is the same concept used to chrome metal parts.
Arm and Hammer washing soda and water is used.
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Old 06-27-2013, 06:14 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertjludwigsr View Post
I did my 74 k5 a year ago powder coating the whole deal came out great. If you have not sugggest you replace the oem rectifier with a radio shack full wave rectifier better charging and your battery will hold a charge longer. Cost less than 5 bucks. get rid of the lead acid battery and replace with a Werker 6vlt 5amp hr glass matt battery. No more acid on the bike eating the paint and everything else up. Its available from batteries plus on line. These are great fun bikes on road and off top end 50 to 55mph and in the low range very capable of handling the steeps.
By chance do you have a part number for the RS full wave rectifier? I'd like to upgrade my 77'.
Thanks.
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