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Old 08-27-2010, 11:40 PM   #61
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sniper X
I have been grumbling at myself under my breath all day...no for two days....
I'd say 4K USD is top dollar on the bike. 3k t0 3500 is more reasonable. it's got some goodies but nothing exceptional---mostly ordinary stock stuff any bike should have., Make sure the tool kit is complete. If the mileage is true, I'd say 3500 is a good measuring stick. You can cost out the filters and such precisely---but if they are old and the rubber on them is dry, toss 'em. The exhaust nut wrench is a freebie. Maybe worth $25USD. Many available. I would give it no weight. I would give more weight to when the fork oil was last changed. Better be within 12 months.


But if you are balancing a trade deal between somethng your don't ride and something you are gonna, that changes things. The $$$$ is not so important. The "happy factor" is. I wouldn't hesitate to give away a grand to get into something I wanted and wanted to ride. If you are comparing this save-and-collect vs. that one---well whatever. Could care less myself. I ride 'em.
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Old 08-28-2010, 06:06 PM   #62
bereahorn
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R60/6

Hello all--Not to hijack a thread but, I picked up a '76 R60/6 with 13,800 miles on it. How similar or different is the /6 to the /5 under discussion here? Or, if there is a good comparison source you could direct me to I would appreciate it. It's presently on the Harbor Freight rack being gone through. TIA. John
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:49 PM   #63
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
Hello all--Not to hijack a thread but,...
But what?
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Old 08-28-2010, 11:15 PM   #64
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
Hello all--Not to hijack a thread but, I picked up a '76 R60/6 with 13,800 miles on it. How similar or different is the /6 to the /5 under discussion here? Or, if there is a good comparison source you could direct me to I would appreciate it. It's presently on the Harbor Freight rack being gone through. TIA. John
Your '76 R60/6 is quite similar to the '72 R60/5. Off the top of my head the major differences are:

1. /6 has 2" longer swingarm and subframe for a 58" wheelbase vs. the /5's 56" wheelbase.

2. /6 has a 280W alternator - /5 180W.

3. /6 has different instrument layout.

4. /6 5spd - /5 4spd.

5. /6 newer switchgear and 7" halogen headlight - /5 5" tungsten lamp.

6. /6 9lb flywheel - /5 11lb flywheel, iirc.

The rest is pretty much identical.

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Old 08-29-2010, 06:52 AM   #65
bereahorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
Your '76 R60/6 is quite similar to the '72 R60/5. Off the top of my head the major differences are:

1. /6 has 2" longer swingarm and subframe for a 58" wheelbase vs. the /5's 56" wheelbase.

2. /6 has a 280W alternator - /5 180W.

3. /6 has different instrument layout.

4. /6 5spd - /5 4spd.

5. /6 newer switchgear and 7" halogen headlight - /5 5" tungsten lamp.

6. /6 9lb flywheel - /5 11lb flywheel, iirc.

The rest is pretty much identical.

Lornce--Thank you for your very clear answer. That's the information I was looking for
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Old 08-29-2010, 07:34 AM   #66
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
Lornce--Thank you for your very clear answer. That's the information I was looking for
No problem, bereahorn.

IMHO, you've got a really nice motorcycle, there. The R60/'s are often overlooked because of mild power and drum front brakes, but I think they're terrific bikes.

- Simple carbs make for easy starts and low maintenance.
- They run smoother than the heralded R75's.
- Lower power equals lower heat stress which means the engine's wear components (bores, rings, guides etc) last 4-ever.
- The way they're geared makes them just as sprightly as an R75 up to 50 or 60 mph or so.
- Better fuel economy equals more range for touring (a bigger plus than it might seem when you're travelling).
- The drum front brake can be adjusted to work better than the single ATE disc brake of the R75's and R90's.

blah blah blah...

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:29 AM   #67
bereahorn
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- Simple carbs make for easy starts and low maintenance.

In the April '09 issue of Airmail a member wrote to Oak with a question about detonation. Here is the exchange in it's entirety.
"I know the R60 was known to ping back when it was new Oak, and the problem seems worse with today's fuel. Is there a reason the R60 is prone to this and is there any way of reducing it without sacrificing too much power? I like the 600 motor and just don't want to abuse it by letting it knock. DA"
Oaks answer: "The R60s were pingers from the beginning. Even with 95 pump octane (with research octane of about a hundred) the R60s were detonation prone. The problem was primarily the effective compression ratio and the sick carbs. Those slide carbs tended to lean slightly upon acceleration and lean mixtures are more detonation prone. The fix, dual plug it and convert to R65 CV type carbs. CV carbs enrichen when accelerating, just what you need. Dual plugging reduces octane demand. Then your problem will likely go away. In the stock condition, it is unlikely you can purchase any fuel with a high enough octane rating to avoid detonation.Oak"
Have you, or anyone else, tried the R65 CV carbs recommended by Oak? I bought a set off ebay some time ago but haven't had a chance to install them and it may be a while before I can do so. John
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:17 AM   #68
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
- Simple carbs make for easy starts and low maintenance.

In the April '09 issue of Airmail a member wrote to Oak with a question about detonation. Here is the exchange in it's entirety.
"I know the R60 was known to ping back when it was new Oak, and the problem seems worse with today's fuel. Is there a reason the R60 is prone to this and is there any way of reducing it without sacrificing too much power? I like the 600 motor and just don't want to abuse it by letting it knock. DA"
Oaks answer: "The R60s were pingers from the beginning. Even with 95 pump octane (with research octane of about a hundred) the R60s were detonation prone. The problem was primarily the effective compression ratio and the sick carbs. Those slide carbs tended to lean slightly upon acceleration and lean mixtures are more detonation prone. The fix, dual plug it and convert to R65 CV type carbs. CV carbs enrichen when accelerating, just what you need. Dual plugging reduces octane demand. Then your problem will likely go away. In the stock condition, it is unlikely you can purchase any fuel with a high enough octane rating to avoid detonation.Oak"
Have you, or anyone else, tried the R65 CV carbs recommended by Oak? I bought a set off ebay some time ago but haven't had a chance to install them and it may be a while before I can do so. John
Lots of variables at work and lots of ways to address them. I like Oak, he's a good old boy with lots of experience in a number of different things. But I'd take a different tack if it were me.

I've had three R60's over the years and an R50/5 that turned out to be an R60. I've never changed the carbs. I like them, especially for their simplicity and economy of operation.

In my experience if you keep relatively clean and tight combustion chambers and time it to avoid preignition, they'll run well.

You've got to begin at the beginning with a motor. Most older airheads will run an awful lot better if they're de-coked every now and then. imho, One of the key factors in keeping them running well is to develop slightly obsessive habits towards keeping them from becoming fuel and oil carbon fouled.

1. Park on the centre stand.
2. Use minimal choke for start-ups and ride away immediately after it fires closing the choke asap. (long, slow warm-ups with the bike idling for minutes at a time under choke is a sure route to a horribly carboned-up and inefficient combustion chamber. Makes me cringe whenever I see it being done.
3.Park on the centre stand.

Bob Loblaw

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Old 08-29-2010, 11:31 AM   #69
bereahorn
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Bob,those are good points. Thanks. John
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:30 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
Bob,those are good points. Thanks. John


Bob Loblaw isn't my name, it's a joke.

Read it out loud. Bob Loblaw.

Get it?

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Old 08-29-2010, 02:04 PM   #71
bereahorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce


Bob Loblaw isn't my name, it's a joke.

Read it out loud. Bob Loblaw.

Get it?

I'm slow on the uptake. I get it...now!
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Old 08-29-2010, 02:35 PM   #72
woodgrain
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What Mr. Loblaw didn't mention about the /6- they have a larger battery, no "hubcaps", a different mounting for the front and rear fenders, a deeper drive dog (spline) on the rear wheel.The kick-starter was optional from '74 (?). The later R60/7 came with a front disc brake. All trivial morsels that don't really matter...

Woodgrain
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:33 PM   #73
bereahorn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodgrain
What Mr. Loblaw didn't mention about the /6- they have a larger battery, no "hubcaps", a different mounting for the front and rear fenders, a deeper drive dog (spline) on the rear wheel.The kick-starter was optional from '74 (?). The later R60/7 came with a front disc brake. All trivial morsels that don't really matter...

Woodgrain
Thank you for the additional info. Every little bit is helpful. I have a couple of options I'm considering. Leave it stock or add a Hannigan fairing I've acquired. Don't know which way I'm going to flop. Kinda like;"My friends call me speedo but my real name is Mr. Earl". It's the era.
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Old 08-29-2010, 03:46 PM   #74
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bereahorn
Thank you for the additional info. Every little bit is helpful. I have a couple of options I'm considering. Leave it stock or add a Hannigan fairing I've acquired. Don't know which way I'm going to flop. Kinda like;"My friends call me speedo but my real name is Mr. Earl". It's the era.
Rode a '76 R60/6 for a while with a Hannigan fairing and it was a great travelling combination. Bike would routinely deliver better than 70mpg imperial with that fairing.

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Old 08-29-2010, 05:09 PM   #75
Uncle Pollo
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Aha!

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