China, Tibet - The closest place to heaven & closer to God - Page 5

Reelickj · 08-30-2010, 09:46 PM

Thank you

GSgal · 08-30-2010, 09:48 PM

Outstanding, Franki... outstanding. Top notch trip, and top notch report and photos. Thank you!

franki · 08-31-2010, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beemer boy

BB,

Tell me why......you cry......

franki · 08-31-2010, 04:01 AM

The clouds moved in during the night and it started to rain in the morning. We have to give up visiting the Laigu glacier near by and ride to Bowo where we planned to make an excursion into Metog. Metog is the only county in China where there is no through road that can be reached by vehicle year round. According to record, the dirt track that leads to Metog is only accessible 60 days out of one year. It’s the lowest altitude inside Tibet. At the Yaluzhanbu River it is only about 700m above sea level and the mountain next to the river peaks at over 7,000m. The extreme weather condition, erosion of the mountain caused landslides on this 142km track a daily event. We went to the entrance of this road to talk to the 4WD taxi driver to get a better understanding of the accessibility of Metog. We were told that the track is all broken up by snow avalanche, landslides. Vehicle can only travel from Bowo to 24km mark and we have to walk on foot over a 5000m snowy mountain to 52km mark and change to another 4WD taxi to 80km mark and than walk the rest of the way to Metog. If weather is fine, it will take 48 hours to complete the journey. This really ended our hope of riding our bikes there. But that didn’t stopped us from venturing into the first section of this track just to have a feel what it’s like riding this track.

Despite it rained most of the day, the ride to Lyingch was a pleasant one. Lyingchi area is located at a lower altitude of around 2200m and it very lush with all kind of flora and fauna. Bayi County was built with the help from Guangdong province and the town is very modern. It is such a contras to see such a modern town after looking at rural

Tibet

for many days. I can’t say I like Bayi County but it is a welcome feeling to be able to check into a hotel with proper bathroom facility to wash off all the dirt on us and our gear. Internet access in the room added icing on the cake.

Except this photo, we did not get our camera out on a rainy day.

Capt. Kool decided not to follow us into the Metog trail and instead go and give his torn out saddle bags a bit of patching up.

The trail begins by following a river with dense vegetation

This bull was very defensive. Can't really blame him for having so many beautiful wives. Luckily, he is not Spainish.

Wash off road

A motorcycle can pass

Further down the road

No pollution here

Wild river

Waterfall everywhere

The Tongmei pass is nortorious for its difficulty to pass. We were very lucky to have perfect weather and traffic conditions to pass and made it through in 30 mins. Other bikers had to use 4 hours to pass it on a rainy day.

Can you read me, over.....

Bridge over troubled water with troubled man

Jon telling story of his previous trip here

Capt. Kool feeling the power of Zen

The rock pot chicken is a famous dish in Lulang. The rock came from Metog and is hand carved. Very tasty chicken at US$17.60/pot

franki · 08-31-2010, 04:23 AM

Instead of taking the easy way (G318) to Lhasa, we opted to take a road less travelled. We rode out of Bayi County and headed for Mainling, Nangxian County and hit dirt road to Gyaca following the Yaluzhanbu River all the way. There was road maintenance work everywhere. The crew filled the portholes with river sand. This caused some handling problem for motorcycles. So we fishtailed our way for the rest of 76km to Gyaca County. Having rested our exhausted body for the night, we left our luggage at the hotel and travel light to climb up to visit Lake Lamula. The 75km dirt road leading up to the lake was very bumpy and my chain broke at 58km. I called Jonathan over the radio and he turned back to give me a hand. Having left all our tools at the hotel back in Gyaca, we can’t fix the broken chain. He used a rope to tow me for 5km where there is a construction team. I asked the contractor if he can use his jeep to haul my bike back to Gyaca, paying for his trouble of course. After learning that I have came a long way to see Lake Lamula and being a very nice man he is, he offered to take me up to the lake and then come back, fetch the bike and send me to Gyaca. How lucky I am to have met such a nice man. Lake Lamula, here I come! It is a sacred lake situated at about 5.000m which must be visited by each generation of Dalailama. The legend goes if one can walk around this lake, takes of one of his belonging, leave it by the lake and face the lake; one can see his present life and future life from the reflection of the lake. We walked up to the snow covered peak at 5,300m to look at Lake Lamula but I couldn’t see my present life or future life. However, I could almost feel my present life going away from me for every 10m I climb. Once reaching the peak and looking at the lake below me, I felt all the trouble I have had is well worth it.

It takes trip like this on for me to appreciate the finner things in life

This is the place where two rivers joint to become one

River banks of Yaluzanbu river

Road is narrow and with sandy patches that gave us some off road sliding training

As we get closer to the border with India, there are police check points. We have to stop and get registered. Foreigns entering these area must get a permit from police station prior to entering such areas.

Capt. Kool having little experience riding on soft sandy road has been struggling.

We enjoyed the scenery on the road

While Capt. Kool was totally exhausted after 150km of dirt road.

franki · 08-31-2010, 07:16 AM

Too tired to take the other sock off, Capt. Kool taking a snooze

The 520 chain broke

What to do when the drive chain broke in the middle of nowhere?

Tibetan farmer stop to try help fix the bike. But the spare chain link he had was a 428 not a 520.

Abandoned monestry

Enf of the road at 5000m ASL

The long climb to 5300m

It may look close to you when viewing from your monitor but I have to stop every 10 steps to catch my breath.

Ooommalibearbear Ooom.....

The family who helped me to truck my bike back to the hotel also came along to see Lake Lamula.

The breath taking view

Frgich · 08-31-2010, 07:29 AM

Making my day Franki, thanks a million

franki · 08-31-2010, 07:27 PM

I am pretty proud of myself making it all the way up here enjoying a view that every Dalilama must see once in their lifetime.

Lake Lamula is renouned for her metal like surface. Though I didn't see my pass or future life from the reflection but it is still a very special lake to me.

Looking at the way we came from atop

These Tibetans have been on their knees the whole day for June & July. In these 2 months they look for a Chinese herbal medicine, that looks liike a worm in the winter and grass in the summer. Their everage income is about USD18,000 for working only 2 months which is a lot compare to the lower living standards in these area where a shop attendant may make only USD200/month.

Ruins

Tent city of the Tibetans collecting the Chinese herbal medicine

Lornce · 08-31-2010, 09:49 PM

Beautiful photographs.

Terrific report!

franki · 08-31-2010, 09:58 PM

My bike being truck back to the hotel

There is no 520 chain link in Tibet so the bike shop put a 530 chain link on with extra washers to fill up the space. It lasted 12 km the next day and the poor quality chain link snapped. Jon has to go back in town to find a truck that will bring me and the bike to the next town where there is better repair facility.

At 4500m uphill, Capt. Kool's bike developed high altitude sickness. The mixture was too rich. He couldn't get his bike going even on 1st gear. It is something we can't fix on the road at that altitude. So we change the plan by having my truck dropping me and my bike off at a small town (Qusong) right after crossing the Jiacha mountain and then turn around to come pick the KTM up and bring it to the same town.

The painful smile on Capt. Kool's face

Blizzard Beast · 08-31-2010, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franki

Looking at the way we came from atop

This is a breathtaking photograph,as indeed are others.Spectacular.

franki · 09-01-2010, 12:41 AM

The winding road up Jiacha mountain

3 hours later, I arrived Qusong and dropped the bike off at a bike shop

Jon wanted to start off early in the morning and we have had no breakfast. Then 2 bikes out of action further delayed our schedule. While Jon & Capt. Kool awaits the return of the truck, they ran out of food and water (a lesson to be learned). They has to stop a truck passing by to beg for food and water. This is what they get.

Loading the KTM on the truck in late afternoon

The dusty road ahead

By 11pm we sat down to have the first meal of the day. I think we have lost our appetite

DustySnow · 09-01-2010, 01:24 AM

Great ride report with sensational photos of stunning scenery. Thank you. I visited the Shangri-la region of Yunnan a few years ago & loved it. This makes me want to come back & see more.

franki · 09-01-2010, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bhasmasur

This is a breathtaking photograph,as indeed are others.Spectacular.

I think there are similar landscape of this kind also in India?

Blizzard Beast · 09-01-2010, 02:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franki

I think there are similar landscape of this kind also in India?

Yes the Leh-Ladakh area in Kashmir has similar landscape.Thats close to the Chinese border.And your military keeps making excursions into those areas.

08-30-2010, 09:46 PM	#61
Reelickj Aragon Joined: Apr 2010 Location: Sun Valley, ID Oddometer: 23	This is Great! Thank you

08-31-2010, 04:23 AM	#65
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	Instead of taking the easy way (G318) to Lhasa, we opted to take a road less travelled. We rode out of Bayi County and headed for Mainling, Nangxian County and hit dirt road to Gyaca following the Yaluzhanbu River all the way. There was road maintenance work everywhere. The crew filled the portholes with river sand. This caused some handling problem for motorcycles. So we fishtailed our way for the rest of 76km to Gyaca County. Having rested our exhausted body for the night, we left our luggage at the hotel and travel light to climb up to visit Lake Lamula. The 75km dirt road leading up to the lake was very bumpy and my chain broke at 58km. I called Jonathan over the radio and he turned back to give me a hand. Having left all our tools at the hotel back in Gyaca, we can’t fix the broken chain. He used a rope to tow me for 5km where there is a construction team. I asked the contractor if he can use his jeep to haul my bike back to Gyaca, paying for his trouble of course. After learning that I have came a long way to see Lake Lamula and being a very nice man he is, he offered to take me up to the lake and then come back, fetch the bike and send me to Gyaca. How lucky I am to have met such a nice man. Lake Lamula, here I come! It is a sacred lake situated at about 5.000m which must be visited by each generation of Dalailama. The legend goes if one can walk around this lake, takes of one of his belonging, leave it by the lake and face the lake; one can see his present life and future life from the reflection of the lake. We walked up to the snow covered peak at 5,300m to look at Lake Lamula but I couldn’t see my present life or future life. However, I could almost feel my present life going away from me for every 10m I climb. Once reaching the peak and looking at the lake below me, I felt all the trouble I have had is well worth it. It takes trip like this on for me to appreciate the finner things in life This is the place where two rivers joint to become one River banks of Yaluzanbu river Road is narrow and with sandy patches that gave us some off road sliding training As we get closer to the border with India, there are police check points. We have to stop and get registered. Foreigns entering these area must get a permit from police station prior to entering such areas. Capt. Kool having little experience riding on soft sandy road has been struggling. We enjoyed the scenery on the road While Capt. Kool was totally exhausted after 150km of dirt road. franki screwed with this post 08-31-2010 at 06:36 AM

08-31-2010, 07:29 AM	#67
Frgich Studly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2007 Location: Europe-Croatia-Zagreb Oddometer: 729	Making my day Franki, thanks a million __________________ If You wish to be out front, Then act as if you were behind Lao Tzu

08-31-2010, 09:49 PM	#69
Lornce Lost In Place Joined: Aug 2003 Location: Way Out There. Oddometer: 15,989	Beautiful photographs. Terrific report! __________________ Across Canada on a '83 R80G/S-PD Across Canada on a '71 R50/5 My Garage Of Doom *Wear The Fox Hat*

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08-30-2010, 09:48 PM	#62
GSgal Studly Adventurer Joined: Jun 2004 Location: NW Montana Oddometer: 774	Outstanding, Franki... outstanding. Top notch trip, and top notch report and photos. Thank you!

08-31-2010, 04:01 AM	#64
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	The clouds moved in during the night and it started to rain in the morning. We have to give up visiting the Laigu glacier near by and ride to Bowo where we planned to make an excursion into Metog. Metog is the only county in China where there is no through road that can be reached by vehicle year round. According to record, the dirt track that leads to Metog is only accessible 60 days out of one year. It’s the lowest altitude inside Tibet. At the Yaluzhanbu River it is only about 700m above sea level and the mountain next to the river peaks at over 7,000m. The extreme weather condition, erosion of the mountain caused landslides on this 142km track a daily event. We went to the entrance of this road to talk to the 4WD taxi driver to get a better understanding of the accessibility of Metog. We were told that the track is all broken up by snow avalanche, landslides. Vehicle can only travel from Bowo to 24km mark and we have to walk on foot over a 5000m snowy mountain to 52km mark and change to another 4WD taxi to 80km mark and than walk the rest of the way to Metog. If weather is fine, it will take 48 hours to complete the journey. This really ended our hope of riding our bikes there. But that didn’t stopped us from venturing into the first section of this track just to have a feel what it’s like riding this track. Despite it rained most of the day, the ride to Lyingch was a pleasant one. Lyingchi area is located at a lower altitude of around 2200m and it very lush with all kind of flora and fauna. Bayi County was built with the help from Guangdong province and the town is very modern. It is such a contras to see such a modern town after looking at rural Tibet for many days. I can’t say I like Bayi County but it is a welcome feeling to be able to check into a hotel with proper bathroom facility to wash off all the dirt on us and our gear. Internet access in the room added icing on the cake. Except this photo, we did not get our camera out on a rainy day. Capt. Kool decided not to follow us into the Metog trail and instead go and give his torn out saddle bags a bit of patching up. The trail begins by following a river with dense vegetation This bull was very defensive. Can't really blame him for having so many beautiful wives. Luckily, he is not Spainish. Wash off road A motorcycle can pass Further down the road No pollution here Wild river Waterfall everywhere The Tongmei pass is nortorious for its difficulty to pass. We were very lucky to have perfect weather and traffic conditions to pass and made it through in 30 mins. Other bikers had to use 4 hours to pass it on a rainy day. Can you read me, over..... Bridge over troubled water with troubled man Jon telling story of his previous trip here Capt. Kool feeling the power of Zen The rock pot chicken is a famous dish in Lulang. The rock came from Metog and is hand carved. Very tasty chicken at US$17.60/pot

08-31-2010, 07:16 AM	#66
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	Too tired to take the other sock off, Capt. Kool taking a snooze The 520 chain broke What to do when the drive chain broke in the middle of nowhere? Tibetan farmer stop to try help fix the bike. But the spare chain link he had was a 428 not a 520. Abandoned monestry Enf of the road at 5000m ASL The long climb to 5300m It may look close to you when viewing from your monitor but I have to stop every 10 steps to catch my breath. Ooommalibearbear Ooom..... The family who helped me to truck my bike back to the hotel also came along to see Lake Lamula. The breath taking view

08-31-2010, 07:27 PM	#68
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	I am pretty proud of myself making it all the way up here enjoying a view that every Dalilama must see once in their lifetime. Lake Lamula is renouned for her metal like surface. Though I didn't see my pass or future life from the reflection but it is still a very special lake to me. Looking at the way we came from atop These Tibetans have been on their knees the whole day for June & July. In these 2 months they look for a Chinese herbal medicine, that looks liike a worm in the winter and grass in the summer. Their everage income is about USD18,000 for working only 2 months which is a lot compare to the lower living standards in these area where a shop attendant may make only USD200/month. Ruins Tent city of the Tibetans collecting the Chinese herbal medicine

08-31-2010, 09:58 PM	#70
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	My bike being truck back to the hotel There is no 520 chain link in Tibet so the bike shop put a 530 chain link on with extra washers to fill up the space. It lasted 12 km the next day and the poor quality chain link snapped. Jon has to go back in town to find a truck that will bring me and the bike to the next town where there is better repair facility. At 4500m uphill, Capt. Kool's bike developed high altitude sickness. The mixture was too rich. He couldn't get his bike going even on 1st gear. It is something we can't fix on the road at that altitude. So we change the plan by having my truck dropping me and my bike off at a small town (Qusong) right after crossing the Jiacha mountain and then turn around to come pick the KTM up and bring it to the same town. The painful smile on Capt. Kool's face

09-01-2010, 12:41 AM	#72
franki ^OP NB Rider Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Hong Kong Oddometer: 1,958	The winding road up Jiacha mountain 3 hours later, I arrived Qusong and dropped the bike off at a bike shop Jon wanted to start off early in the morning and we have had no breakfast. Then 2 bikes out of action further delayed our schedule. While Jon & Capt. Kool awaits the return of the truck, they ran out of food and water (a lesson to be learned). They has to stop a truck passing by to beg for food and water. This is what they get. Loading the KTM on the truck in late afternoon The dusty road ahead By 11pm we sat down to have the first meal of the day. I think we have lost our appetite

09-01-2010, 01:24 AM	#73
DustySnow Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2007 Location: Clare Valley, South Australia Oddometer: 197	Great ride report with sensational photos of stunning scenery. Thank you. I visited the Shangri-la region of Yunnan a few years ago & loved it. This makes me want to come back & see more.