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Old 08-23-2007, 05:49 AM   #76
SteveBroskey
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Oddometer: 541
Quote:
Originally Posted by nashopolis
that was fast!
+1 ARCH is the man.
haven't gotten as far as the pocket tester yet in my manual. Still preping for a slab trip this weekend.

Rochester, NY -> Framingham, MA Feel free to suggest good sections road - else it'll be all I-90 the whole way.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:10 AM   #77
knybanjo
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Location: out in the clover patch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nashopolis
Howdy folks

I'm looking at a 93 DR650
I know there was a big upgrade at year 96

how is the parts availability for an older DR? is there an aftermarket for something of this vintage (i.e. do newer parts fit the old bike)?


thanks
I have a '93 and parts have not yet been a problem to find. If it's not convenient to stop by a dealership bikebandit.com has full schematic parts lists on their web site for OEM stuff...
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Old 08-23-2007, 12:08 PM   #78
toolfan
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Hey, cool, thanks for the combo Mods and SteveB.

SteveB - if you want to avoid the freeway, use google maps to get directions and click the box that says "avoid freeways" or something like that, it worked pretty well for me on my last trip. It's also nice because I noticed that my bike get's much better gas mileage cruising at less than 5k rpms than the 5k+ required by freeway travel.


nashopolis - I have no idea what the suzuki pocket tester does, but are you just trying to figure out the lights/non-running thing? My bike is e-start only, so it's probably wired a little different... but - does your battery have juice when it's off? If it does, then the headlight is probably wired straight to the stator and is supposed to be off with the engine. You could probably figure out of that was right or wrong just by studying the wiring diagram.

I've been getting OEM parts from my local dealer no problem. Everything has to be ordered, but I usually get it within a week or so. The acerbis tank took like 3.5 weeks or so.
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Old 08-23-2007, 01:37 PM   #79
SteveBroskey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolfan
SteveB - if you want to avoid the freeway, use google maps to get directions and click the box that says "avoid freeways" or something like that, it worked pretty well for me on my last trip. It's also nice because I noticed that my bike get's much better gas mileage cruising at less than 5k rpms than the 5k+ required by freeway travel.
So true on the mpg, and yes - drag 'n drop the blue line is nice; it just adds 1hr+ to the drive, and I'm riding with another. We'll be on a time budget to get there when the dancing starts (yes, I'm terpsichorean). Thanks for the suggestions though!
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:58 PM   #80
nashopolis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolfan
Hey, cool, thanks for the combo Mods and SteveB.


nashopolis - I have no idea what the suzuki pocket tester does, but are you just trying to figure out the lights/non-running thing? My bike is e-start only, so it's probably wired a little different... but - does your battery have juice when it's off? If it does, then the headlight is probably wired straight to the stator and is supposed to be off with the engine. You could probably figure out of that was right or wrong just by studying the wiring diagram.
thanks for the tips

so the word on the internet is that a regular vom meter should suffice (seemed likely**but you never know)

yep....I am a complete novice when it comes to the electrical system
I understand the "ideas" of how it works but have very little practical knowledge
but I am learning!

I have been studying**the wiring diagram lately however obviously i need some more education and or eyeballing of the wiring on bike to understand it properly (or a teacher!)

I was testing the battery last night to see if it was charging and got a low reading
I started testing the charging system per the manual to see if I could see what was amiss

got some non spec readings on the aftermarket rectifier which also has a slightly different wiring layout than the stock one in the manual ... thus I came to a place where I had too many variables to easily teach myself how it all worked.**VOM meter, charging system, aftermarket parts, basic troubleshooting....

it seems likely that the bike must be wired through the stator or something of the sort because I have zero powered accessories until the bike is running.**

I was digging around and found this great link to a decision tree for the charging system
(thanks Hondo)*
http://www.electrosport.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf
*I bet I can figure it out with this and a little time.

I really just need to sit down and weed through it
take the tank off and spread everything out where i can see it

right now I am trying amass all the pieces before I tear down the bike so I can do all the maintenance at once while the oil is out and the tank is empty.

but I guess you really don't need an empty tank on these bikes right
my ural has a balance tube on the tank which means drain the tank to take it off
not so with the DR.
:)


lots to learn but glad to do it
perhaps my DR and I will be quite intimate by the time I am through learning!?


thanks to all for the help thus far

nashopolis screwed with this post 08-24-2007 at 12:18 AM
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:09 AM   #81
toolfan
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Yeah, no need to empty the tank - as long as your petcock still works.

Also - no need to drain the oil to do the balancer chain or the valves. The valves are pretty straight forward with the bike upright. For the balancer chain, you can lay the bike over on it's right sideand pull the left side cover without losing any oil. I was able to adjust mine without damaging the gasket, although I'll probably buy one if they are available as a "just in case" for next time. Although, I wouldn't be opposed to just using rtv there.

Have you checked the voltage of your battery with the bike off? If it's over 12v, then I'm going to guess that the lights are wired straight to the stator. Don't know if it's supposed to be like that or not though.

edit - I just looked at the wiring diagram - and it LOOKS like the headlights should come on with the ignition switch. Your battery could be totally shot and that would explain it, or the PO changed the wiring around.

toolfan screwed with this post 08-24-2007 at 07:22 AM
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Old 08-26-2007, 01:57 PM   #82
knybanjo
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FYI

My bike was missing the battery entirely when I bought it. It started and ran normal. All lights worked once engine was running....but no horn.

I immediately bought a new battery though......now the lights come on with the key.

If the lights don't come on unless the engine is running I'd say the problem is with the battery or it's connections.
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Old 08-27-2007, 12:30 AM   #83
nashopolis
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whelp turns out my electrical problem can be chalked up the the bike wanting a little love

I cleaned some connections and fiddled around while trying to figure out how use my multi-meter correctly
and then everything worked?!

hopefully it was something I did

I did change the main fuse out maybe it was getting tired
or perhaps it was a bad connection somewhere i fiddled with ....dunno never did find an open circuit or a bad ground (but now i know how to )

any rate I have lights with the key and the bike is charging the battery
(knock on wood)
:)

now i am working on checking the valve clearance and adjusting the balancer chain
this thing has a wicked big slotted access cover on the magneto side to access a bolt with which one can turn the engine
anybody have a good tip as to what to turn the cover off with in order to get it off without mangling it?

it is also time to buy some hexhead sockets inorder to be able to torque the hidden hexheads to specs

most of this is pretty new to me...so it is all very interesting

for my own edification I am trying to keep track of the bolt sizes and tools used in order to make up a little repair kit
I'll post it later if anyone is interested
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:57 AM   #84
toolfan
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You don't need to (or want to) turn the cover off. Take all of the bolts off that hold it on, give it a tap or two with a mallet, then you can just pull it off. Be careful of the gasket and you can reuse it. I imagine if you try to turn it off you'll tear the gasket.
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Old 08-27-2007, 01:21 PM   #85
nashopolis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toolfan
You don't need to (or want to) turn the cover off. Take all of the bolts off that hold it on, give it a tap or two with a mallet, then you can just pull it off. Be careful of the gasket and you can reuse it. I imagine if you try to turn it off you'll tear the gasket.

thanks
hex sockets in hand... more fun tonight
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:09 AM   #86
TBO
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Location: Madrid (Spain)
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Hi!

This my DR650RE '94 (14.000 km)

- Thunder exhaust pipe
- Front mudfender by Acerbis Tecnik
- Metzeler Enduro 3 Sahara
-
I'm waiting for a DRZ400S headligth cover




Regards
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Old 08-28-2007, 07:08 AM   #87
tslewisz
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Welcome, TBO! That's a great lookin' DR you have there.
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:34 AM   #88
nashopolis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tslewisz
Welcome, TBO! That's a great lookin' DR you have there.
yes welcome
man that is a sharp oldschool DR

you have taken good care of that puppy! thanks for the pics
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Old 08-29-2007, 05:32 AM   #89
TBO
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Many thanks for your wellcome.

That is a
commendable work of the last owner, I've her only since a few months

I like so much this bike, for dual sport is simple perfect! (I've a KTM EXC 300 '07 for "hard" enduro :) )

I've read a lot of interesting things about this bike in this forum abut I've some doubts:

- Open airbox and kit dynojet: Really it wasn't worth the effort? How many I have to open the airbox? DRZ400 users open it 3"x3"

- Is it possible to get new plastics or graphics (just in case of crash)?, I don't find them in nowhere

Thanks a lot

Cheers!

TBO screwed with this post 08-29-2007 at 05:47 AM
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Old 08-29-2007, 05:57 AM   #90
tslewisz
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Rejetting my '95 made a world of difference. No surging, better throttle response, etc. My airbox had already been hacked on by a PO, tho. The bike is much more pleasant to ride.
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