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Old 08-02-2011, 01:41 AM   #31
wb57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motojunky View Post
I read on the interwebs about adjusting the timing to change the power delivery. Might be that mine is advanced further than yours was.

http://www.thehellteam.com/catalogue/c11/c20/c27/c62!
Wow. I need to ride yours someday to see if that's the case.
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Old 08-02-2011, 07:37 AM   #32
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Wow. I need to ride yours someday to see if that's the case.
I do recall noticing that yours seemed smoother/more mellow than mine. Didn't seem to be a huge difference.
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Old 08-03-2011, 03:15 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by motojunky View Post
I do recall noticing that yours seemed smoother/more mellow than mine. Didn't seem to be a huge difference.
The guy I bought it from had replaced the throttle tube with a longer duration one to, in his words, make it less abrubt. He didn't mention anything about changing the timing though.
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Old 08-03-2011, 06:54 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by wb57 View Post
The guy I bought it from had replaced the throttle tube with a longer duration one to, in his words, make it less abrubt. He didn't mention anything about changing the timing though.
I'm pretty sure I have the slow throttle too. I'm very sure I need it.

It seems that there is some inconsistency as to which timing setting they came with from the factory. Mine could have been advanced by a PO, or it could have been one of the small year-to-year changes. For that matter, there could have been a compression ration change between years, but I think that's pretty unlikely. Could be that mine just has a shitload of carbon buildup on top of the piston.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:21 AM   #35
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Could be that mine just has a shitload of carbon buildup on top of the piston.
Probably better ways to raise the compression....
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Old 09-15-2011, 07:09 AM   #36
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Update

I coated my Scorpa tank on 7/23. On 8/30, after 5 weeks of using ethanol fuel, I noticed small 'spots' in the tank. I was fairly certain that they were not there at first but not 100% sure. I looked again on 9/9 and they had grown into small (2-5 mm) blisters in the Caswell coating.

It didn't work. I was freakishly careful to follow directions and exceeded the recommended clean/rinse/cure procedures by a huge margin. My tools & supplies were clean.

I spoke with Caswell today who suggested that I use Acetone for ~5 minutes to soften the coating and then re-apply. We'll see...

The pics below were taken on 8/30 and 9/9. The blisters are clearly visible and you can clearly see the growth in the 10 day period between.



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Old 10-04-2011, 06:02 AM   #37
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Bump to see if there has been any update? Curious about using Caswell...but not if it doesn't do what they say it does.
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Old 10-04-2011, 06:38 AM   #38
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Bump to see if there has been any update? Curious about using Caswell...but not if it doesn't do what they say it does.
There has been no ethanol tainted fuel in the tank for a couple of weeks now. The blisters have grown slightly and I'm seeing what looks like new ones forming in other areas. It seems to have slowed down since removing the ethanol but it's really to early to say.

I'm not exactly sure what my next step is going to be. Caswell wants me to soak in acetone to get the current coating somewhat solvent and apply another treatment. It looks to me like the blisters are coming from underneath so I'm not sure that adding another layer will help - it may just add that much more crap to have to try to remove at some point.

Given that the blisters are forming from underneath the coating and coming to the surface, I wonder if the issue I'm having is related to ethanol at all, or some incompatibility between the Caswell and the Scorpa tank. I cleaned it very thoroughly, but I suppose it is possible that the tank material had absorbed something which is trying to get out. I really don't know at this point and my #1 goal right now is to not have to buy another tank.

I just picked up a couple of gallons of AvGas to try. I'll be riding my first event with that this weekend. If it runs OK (so far, so good) and stalls the blistering in the tank, I'm just going to stick with that for now. If it does not run OK, I'll probably suck it up and go back to the ethanol-free VP I was using.

If you are doing a motorcycle tank, there's way more than necessary in the smallest Caswell kit. You could mix up a batch and coat a test container which you could fill with ethanol swill and watch the result before coating your good tank.

I'm sorry that I don't have a more concrete answer. Again, my priority right now is to preserve my tank. Adding more Caswell just seems like a bad idea at this point.

I'm not bashing Caswell. At some point, I do intend to coat a test container and fill it with ethanol fuel so I know for sure whether or not the product works. I do strongly suggest that you do the same before coating your tank (there is plenty of extra in the kit to do so). I have heard lots of good feedback about the product - and also the other bad feedback that I posted early on in this thread. YMMV, of course. :)
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:52 AM   #39
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The problem with many if not all coating problems is inadequate surface preparation. Did you do anything to rough up the surface?
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Old 10-04-2011, 07:59 AM   #40
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The problem with many if not all coating problems is inadequate surface preparation. Did you do anything to rough up the surface?
I did. The instructions said this:

"4. Place a hand full of drywall screws with about a pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes.
These will dislodge any loose particles of rust, and in the case of plastic/fiberglass, rough up the surface. Dispose of the contaminated solution.
Allow to dry."

I did that for much longer than several minutes. Then, feeling like the drywall screws weren't moving freely enough due to the tiny tank, I switched to small machine screws and did it again.

Having read of another failure with Caswell, I was hesitant to use it. I took exceptionally great care to follow instructions regarding prep.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:58 AM   #41
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I run a marina / boatyard / non-ethanol gas dock, so my two cents:

Ethanol has created big problems in the marine environment too. First, it was with the old polyester-based fiberglass fuel tanks. The ethanol (an alcohol) would degrade the poly resin and cause just the same problem you experienced... an nasty, gummy substance in the carbs. Second, it binds to water more readily than fuel, and a small amount of water in the tank (~2%) would cause the ethanol to separate out of the gas. Again, a nasty gummy substance.

I sell more non-ethanol to folks with five-gallon cans filling up their lawnmowers than I do to boats lately.
just thinking out loud here, but if that works, then we can seperate the ethanol ourselves, all is needed is a sepratory funnel
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Old 10-05-2011, 08:51 PM   #42
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Hey Motojunky;

Sorry your tank didn't turn out; it sounds like we both applied it the same way, so whatever the difference is between this stuff working and not working must be small.
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Old 10-06-2011, 05:33 AM   #43
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Hey Motojunky;

Sorry your tank didn't turn out; it sounds like we both applied it the same way, so whatever the difference is between this stuff working and not working must be small.
Weird, isn't it?

I couldn't have been more particular about prep/following instructions/etc. so I really don't even have a guess as to why it worked for you and not me. I'm just "lucky" like that, I guess.
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:46 AM   #44
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Long-term update

I took a look at the inside of my Scorpa tank and found that the blisters have not grown or changed in appearance since the last update. I have also not had ethanol fuel in the tank in that time. I've had the Caswell in the tank for about a year and a half now. My suspicion is that even though I prepped with extreme care and overkill, the Caswell did not adhere well in those spots. I suspect that I could run ethanol tainted fuel now without damaging the tank. The coating is intact, it has just lifted from the inside of the tank in the blister areas.

If I were to do it again, I would repeat the preparation instructions several times over the course of a few days to make sure to remove any possible contaminant. At this point, my tank is fine and I've decided that given the cost (if even available?) of a new tank, I'm going to leave it alone. I'm also sticking with VP C9 at $12/gallon. Painful, but really not a big deal given the small amount of fuel the bike uses. It's interesting to me that C9 (unleaded, 96 octane) is a few dollars cheaper than SEF94 (unleaded, 94 octane). Best I can tell, it's a marketing thing.
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Old 03-21-2013, 05:04 PM   #45
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Clean sand might have been better than screws for roughing up the surface.
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