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Old 09-30-2014, 09:27 PM   #1
doggitter OP
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Trail changes from leading to center axles on the forks.

Is there anyone that can shed some light on what handling differences come up from swapping to forks with leading axle instead of the axle centered under the fork?
What about changing the rake of the head angle and using leading axle forks also??
Want less rake but need the room for the tire by the radiator and engine in front that the leading axle gives.
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Old 09-30-2014, 09:43 PM   #2
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Have a read of this article.

http://www.tonyfoale.com/Articles/RakeEx/RakeEx.htm
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:05 PM   #3
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That's a good example of what I'm looking for. Thanks a bunch.
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:17 PM   #4
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Looks to be that just switching to leading axle forks will make it corner easier but lower straight line stablility. May not want or need to change rake then. That's a good thing.
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Old 10-01-2014, 04:56 PM   #5
cleatusj
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Some of us use the leading legs to reduce trail so steering will take less effort on sidecar rigs.
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Old 10-02-2014, 03:14 AM   #6
DRjoe
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Changing the offset by that much will have a huge effect on the handing.
Your going to end up with very little trail.
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Old 10-02-2014, 07:00 AM   #7
doggitter OP
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From the measuring I've done it looks to have almost 5" of trail now, would go to near 3.5" without any other changes. Depending on which triple is used that may add some back. Going to a 19" wheel will add a little back to it.
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Old 10-03-2014, 04:16 AM   #8
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What bike is it?
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Old 10-03-2014, 06:52 AM   #9
doggitter OP
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First post I asked about rake and trail is what I was after.

Bike is 84 Sabre.
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Old 10-03-2014, 01:16 PM   #10
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One easy way to reduce rake is to fit longer shocks. I put a inch over stock length on my old Suzuki GS850 and it really quickened up the steering. The bike was also still very stable at speed.

Food for thought.
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Old 10-03-2014, 01:55 PM   #11
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Yeah, weighing all this against my height challenge also. Paid 20 for a slightly ripped oem seat to have modded, def need to soften the suspension, thinking the anti-dive forks could bebad offroad. Choosing how to improve it might be the tough part.
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Old 10-08-2014, 05:51 AM   #12
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Thumb Trail - Rake

Switching to leading axle forks does not automatically change the trail if you change the triple trees too. But putting leading axle forks in trees meant for standard forks is pretty severe... too much in my opinion. A lowering kit in the forks seems sensible to me as a way to tune your chassis since you don't want to raise the rear with longer shocks. If Progressive Suspensions doesn't offer an actual kit talk to them anyway. A lower profile tire up front may be helpful. Sometimes a little tweak here and there adds up. Sliding the forks up in the trees may be a good tweak. Take the caps off so the forks collapse all the way so you can determine if the forks can slide up 1/2" to 1" without the wheel contacting anything.
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Old 10-08-2014, 07:29 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Growl View Post
Switching to leading axle forks does not automatically change the trail if you change the triple trees too. But putting leading axle forks in trees meant for standard forks is pretty severe... too much in my opinion. A lowering kit in the forks seems sensible to me as a way to tune your chassis since you don't want to raise the rear with longer shocks. If Progressive Suspensions doesn't offer an actual kit talk to them anyway. A lower profile tire up front may be helpful. Sometimes a little tweak here and there adds up. Sliding the forks up in the trees may be a good tweak. Take the caps off so the forks collapse all the way so you can determine if the forks can slide up 1/2" to 1" without the wheel contacting anything.
That's why I'm thinking going to a 19" front at the same time. It'll lessen the change in trail by lifting the front a tad. Oh, I def won't go any lower than it is. I'll caarve the seat lower and raise the rear if I have to change the attitude of the bike that way some instead.
The thing that kinda bugs me still is the 30deg. rake. I want to know if it's set up so high out of need due to the long, low profile of the bike, or it isn't needed and was designed that way to make it more cruiseresque.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:29 PM   #14
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Hey Doggitter,

The old bikes had slow steering angles because the frames, forks, tires and everything else was crap. If you put a steep angle on the fork, you'd get bad speed wobbles. If you don't have enough trail, ditto. Get some big rigid fork tubes and brace up the frame and swingarm, then you might survive with a steeper angle.

I must have missed the point of all this, you just trying to lower it?
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:14 PM   #15
doggitter OP
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Hey Zuber
Reason for this is a bike I can take the wife and enjoy some back roads, without much to spend on a better bike choice.
Not lowering, trying to gain a small amount of gravel road manners without going to extremes. It has a 18" front and I can't find any decent dual sport tires in that size unless I do the flip a rear tire around and run it on front. Thought putting a 19" on would fix that and maybe help off the pavement? The thought on fork changes is mostly to lighten up the steering, good if it also gains a bit of height as I can mod the seat later to reach the ground ok.
The pan is quite a bit wider than the frame tubes in the front I noticed tonight, but narrowing the foam will prob get me there.
Still trying to get to tearing the rear susp apart and lube it all, add grease fittings, and find out what shape it's in.
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