Flying Merkel tribute build... the Flying Merkin?? - Page 4

Rebuilder · 09-13-2010, 07:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by knary

Let's see, the old Merkel single was good for what? [ insert google search ] 3.5 hp.

The XT500 made a claimed 27hp (?).

Should be interesting.

Yeah, I'm a little obsessed with doing that. EX: That BMW in the background is getting a turbo Ford small block. That project is way out of control. Had to step away.

bk brkr baker · 09-13-2010, 07:35 PM

Great project!
I think you'll be more than pleased with the power you can get from the 500 Yamaha. It will likely cause the rider to back off far before it's done.

Here's a shot of the Flying Merkel that's in the Cannonball run, from the Maggie Valley stopover.

Rebuilder · 09-13-2010, 07:53 PM

On to something I've always wanted to make.... a reverse clutch lever. I know the original Merkel didn't have one but mine is going to. I figure the throttle cable runs through the bars so the clutch cable should too.

I started with CNC routing the rough shape out of 1/2" aluminum.

And then went to work shaping it.

After doing a little testing I'm not sure I got the pivot point correct because it's pretty hard to pull. I'll change it later if I have to.

Rebuilder · 09-13-2010, 09:02 PM

On to the tank. This is one of those parts that can make or break a good build. It's the most iconic part of the whole bike. Everyone will be looking at this thing....no pressure. The painter can fix it. Wait that's me.

Anyway, I picked up some pretty heavy gauge sheet metal (maybe 20 or gauge? can't recall). I was thinking it was too thick when I got it, but it turned out just right. Easy to weld, didn't warp, strong. Unfortunately, it was factory primed, not galvanized, but close. I didn't know it until the guy had it on the scale. I said I didn't want it because it cost more, he said he'd sell it for the lower price, turned out I ended up paying the higher price (realized on the way home). I wasn't happy. End of rant.

Once the frame was welded I simply traced the opening to some paper and transferred it to the steel. The marker width from edge to point gave me just the right gap around the outside (around 3/16"). Plasma cutter on and Voila... sides.

I had sheared some strips for the top, ends and bottom at work. I have a little break at home so I started bending it up.

The tank was actually pretty difficult to figure out. Not to make but to make sure I had everything welded in it before welding it shut. I wanted to weld the filler necks in from the inside so I got to work on them. One for Gas and one for Oil.

The bungs and caps came from... were else but Bung King... Really, look it up. Great site for the do it yourself-er.

Again, Voila they're done.

That's the oil tank section

Painter can fix it.

The bottom

Fits.

See that weld just above the highest point at the bottom of the tank? I put in a short divider that I hope will work as a little reserve. It'll fill when the tank is filled and the intent is there will still be some gas back there if I ever run out. I'll be running two petcocks.

Upper brackets. Notice how I like to punish myself by using flat head screws.

The bottom of the tank is held with pipe clamps from Mcmaster Carr. They have everything. These are nice stainless ones with rubber insulator bushings. Again flat head screws into welded in threaded blind bungs

Welds are ugly but they'll soon be ground down and made pretty. Once I get the motor in I'll put in the oil and fuel bungs and then I can pressure test it and epoxy seal it to make sure oil and gas don't mix.

40 more pics until I'm caught up. Bars and home-made leather seat still to come.

Owlseye · 09-13-2010, 09:13 PM

I was going to post that I have just replaced the fork seals on my IT 175, but I think I'll hold off now.....

Much props and admiration on this project.

anonny · 09-13-2010, 09:19 PM

Your workmanship is awesome.

As for the motor, I was considering recasting the bottom end to get that lovely round shape, but after researching.... it was going to be a boatload of work. Getting any period motor is going to cost an absolute fortune... I remember looking at an old compressor I had kicking around and thinking.... it almost looks the part, maybe with a bunch of work..... Good luck.

JLeather · 09-14-2010, 04:44 AM

I have a question about the gas tank welding. Your tacks looked to be MIG welded. Did you MIG weld the entire tank? A friend/welder who does a lot of custom bike work told me once that MIG welds are too porous for gastanks and that they well weep fuel if you don't use a sealant inside. He TIG's gastanks with silicon-bronze rod (basically TIG-Brazing). Just curious if you've run into similar issues, or if you plan on sealing it when you're finished?

Awesome looking build BTW.

Rebuilder · 09-14-2010, 07:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by anonny

Your workmanship is awesome.

As for the motor, I was considering recasting the bottom end to get that lovely round shape, but after researching.... it was going to be a boatload of work. Getting any period motor is going to cost an absolute fortune... I remember looking at an old compressor I had kicking around and thinking.... it almost looks the part, maybe with a bunch of work..... Good luck.

Thank you.

A friend of mine is building a more bicycle scale motorbike and using what I think is a compressor motor or some sort of PTO motor. Really cool little single cylinder with the round case. Another guy built a Cyclone replica and used a Briggs V-Twin. That actually looks really cool. On the XT motor I know I'm going make my own stator cover and I may do something to the other side as well.

Rebuilder · 09-14-2010, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLeather

I have a question about the gas tank welding. Your tacks looked to be MIG welded. Did you MIG weld the entire tank? A friend/welder who does a lot of custom bike work told me once that MIG welds are too porous for gastanks and that they well weep fuel if you don't use a sealant inside. He TIG's gastanks with silicon-bronze rod (basically TIG-Brazing). Just curious if you've run into similar issues, or if you plan on sealing it when you're finished?

Awesome looking build BTW.

I've done it this way before. It's not ideal but it works. I am going to epoxy the inside just to be safe though.

crazydrummerdude · 09-14-2010, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dlrides

Sounds like a bunch of crusty old farts yelling at kids to get of trhe lawn !

This is the exact reason I'll never do another build thread !

We're praising him, and if he doesn't like it, he's free to tell us to bugger off.

But, you should keep doing build threads. I like your work.

Juntura · 09-14-2010, 07:34 AM

Don't know if this has been said, but SWEET Stroppe Bronco!

Fab work is inspiring.

Sniper X · 09-14-2010, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Owlseye

I was going to post that I have just replaced the fork seals on my IT 175, but I think I'll hold off now.....

Much props and admiration on this project.

I was thinking I acomplished something on my R100RS but don't dare post it here for the same reason!

Rebuilder · 09-14-2010, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juntura

Don't know if this has been said, but SWEET Stroppe Bronco!

Fab work is inspiring.

Well, not too many people know that. Well done and thanks.

rc mad · 09-14-2010, 01:20 PM

That's some skill there

What i'd give to have a decent shop, working out of a 8 x 10 shed has it's limitations

Jinx · 09-14-2010, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rc mad

That's some skill there

What i'd give to have a decent shop, working out of a 8 x 10 shed has it's limitations

"Ohhh, we used to dream of workin' out of a 8 x 10 shed! Woulda been a palace to us"

With apologies to the lads what wrote it

09-13-2010, 07:35 PM	#47
bk brkr baker Beastly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2006 Location: The Bluegrass Oddometer: 4,134	Great project! I think you'll be more than pleased with the power you can get from the 500 Yamaha. It will likely cause the rider to back off far before it's done. Here's a shot of the Flying Merkel that's in the Cannonball run, from the Maggie Valley stopover. __________________ RR's Catnip Hill to Peoria ___Loopin' Seattle to WestFest It started with some beers __1500 miles to the Dentist Skeedaddle to Seattle______ A 30 year old on a Three Flags Run

09-13-2010, 09:19 PM	#51
anonny What could go wrong? Joined: Mar 2007 Location: Beautiful Revelstoke BC Oddometer: 4,956	Your workmanship is awesome. As for the motor, I was considering recasting the bottom end to get that lovely round shape, but after researching.... it was going to be a boatload of work. Getting any period motor is going to cost an absolute fortune... I remember looking at an old compressor I had kicking around and thinking.... it almost looks the part, maybe with a bunch of work..... Good luck. __________________ Kawasaki H1 build thread 71- 450 Honda CL re & re Just another pathetic sheep following the herd

09-14-2010, 01:20 PM	#59
rc mad Physycotic gecko Joined: May 2006 Location: Skuma's homestead Oddometer: 1,313	That's some skill there What i'd give to have a decent shop, working out of a 8 x 10 shed has it's limitations __________________ "Mad Science" means never stopping to ask "what's the worst thing that could happen? Smugmug photo site discount coupon X0gojbokG3nBM

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09-13-2010, 07:53 PM	#48
Rebuilder ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2009 Location: Minnesota Oddometer: 198	On to something I've always wanted to make.... a reverse clutch lever. I know the original Merkel didn't have one but mine is going to. I figure the throttle cable runs through the bars so the clutch cable should too. I started with CNC routing the rough shape out of 1/2" aluminum. And then went to work shaping it. After doing a little testing I'm not sure I got the pivot point correct because it's pretty hard to pull. I'll change it later if I have to.

09-13-2010, 09:02 PM	#49
Rebuilder ^OP Gnarly Adventurer Joined: May 2009 Location: Minnesota Oddometer: 198	On to the tank. This is one of those parts that can make or break a good build. It's the most iconic part of the whole bike. Everyone will be looking at this thing....no pressure. The painter can fix it. Wait that's me. Anyway, I picked up some pretty heavy gauge sheet metal (maybe 20 or gauge? can't recall). I was thinking it was too thick when I got it, but it turned out just right. Easy to weld, didn't warp, strong. Unfortunately, it was factory primed, not galvanized, but close. I didn't know it until the guy had it on the scale. I said I didn't want it because it cost more, he said he'd sell it for the lower price, turned out I ended up paying the higher price (realized on the way home). I wasn't happy. End of rant. Once the frame was welded I simply traced the opening to some paper and transferred it to the steel. The marker width from edge to point gave me just the right gap around the outside (around 3/16"). Plasma cutter on and Voila... sides. I had sheared some strips for the top, ends and bottom at work. I have a little break at home so I started bending it up. The tank was actually pretty difficult to figure out. Not to make but to make sure I had everything welded in it before welding it shut. I wanted to weld the filler necks in from the inside so I got to work on them. One for Gas and one for Oil. The bungs and caps came from... were else but Bung King... Really, look it up. Great site for the do it yourself-er. Again, Voila they're done. That's the oil tank section Painter can fix it. The bottom Fits. See that weld just above the highest point at the bottom of the tank? I put in a short divider that I hope will work as a little reserve. It'll fill when the tank is filled and the intent is there will still be some gas back there if I ever run out. I'll be running two petcocks. Upper brackets. Notice how I like to punish myself by using flat head screws. The bottom of the tank is held with pipe clamps from Mcmaster Carr. They have everything. These are nice stainless ones with rubber insulator bushings. Again flat head screws into welded in threaded blind bungs Welds are ugly but they'll soon be ground down and made pretty. Once I get the motor in I'll put in the oil and fuel bungs and then I can pressure test it and epoxy seal it to make sure oil and gas don't mix. 40 more pics until I'm caught up. Bars and home-made leather seat still to come.

09-13-2010, 09:13 PM	#50
Owlseye Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Edmonton, Alberta Oddometer: 178	I was going to post that I have just replaced the fork seals on my IT 175, but I think I'll hold off now..... Much props and admiration on this project.

09-14-2010, 04:44 AM	#52
JLeather Bike Butcherer Joined: Aug 2010 Location: Maryland Oddometer: 273	I have a question about the gas tank welding. Your tacks looked to be MIG welded. Did you MIG weld the entire tank? A friend/welder who does a lot of custom bike work told me once that MIG welds are too porous for gastanks and that they well weep fuel if you don't use a sealant inside. He TIG's gastanks with silicon-bronze rod (basically TIG-Brazing). Just curious if you've run into similar issues, or if you plan on sealing it when you're finished? Awesome looking build BTW.

09-14-2010, 07:34 AM	#56
Juntura Obsessive Lurker Joined: May 2008 Location: In the land of diapers and potatoes Oddometer: 84	Don't know if this has been said, but SWEET Stroppe Bronco! Fab work is inspiring.