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Old 10-12-2010, 08:11 PM   #91
Hayduke
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OMG. So glad you are ok!
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:07 AM   #92
Peter GG
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Great pics guys..
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Old 10-13-2010, 09:34 AM   #93
Bemeve
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Hola Beto,
Espero que todo marche bien y cualquier cosa que necesites con informacion de tu viaje a Ushuaia avisame, Yo lo hice en el 2007 saliendo de Lima ida y vuelta
Nos vemos en la ruta.

http://espanol.groups.yahoo.com/grou...viajeros_peru/
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:57 PM   #94
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Me too! I saw the whole thing through my side mirror (i was leading and heard Naomi yelling - via the communication sys - at the horse) and was very surprised she was unscratched .....

Thanks for the support Hayduke!
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OMG. So glad you are ok!
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:59 PM   #95
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Thanks Peter!

I'm glad you're enjoying them!

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Great pics guys..
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Old 10-13-2010, 08:07 PM   #96
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Gracias Ivan, seguro estamos hablando cuando estemos por Peru. Que bueno que tengas un grupo de motociclistas de aventura alla en Peru .

Saludos,
Beto.

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Originally Posted by Bemeve
Hola Beto,
Espero que todo marche bien y cualquier cosa que necesites con informacion de tu viaje a Ushuaia avisame, Yo lo hice en el 2007 saliendo de Lima ida y vuelta
Nos vemos en la ruta.

http://espanol.groups.yahoo.com/grou...viajeros_peru/
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:17 PM   #97
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Day 30 (247km): No toilet seats in Durango

It was a noisy choice staying downtown last night, but it was kind of nice for a change: being at the center of town. It made the experience more real. My arms and right shoulder were sore when I woke up from the accident. Sore in the same way they would feel after windsurfing during a storm, so no biggie; I could ride.

It was much easier leaving downtown than getting to it last night. Our direction was Durango and at first it seemed like we were on some country road (it was gravel). I guess they were doing road construction and the road eventually turned into a normal road. It was more or less straight going until the end where there was some amazing mountain scenery and some nice fast curves. We stopped for an unhealthy lunch at a Pemex gas station (I feel like a writer from Bike magazine UK). It's amazing how cheap junk food is. It's still not as hot as it was in Sonora on the coast but either way I have officially ditched my BMW Underwear and gone back to my Icebreaker 150s. The BMW Underwear did not do as good of a job wicking the moisture away from my body. Say what you will about how great synthetics are but nothing beats natural fibers.





We decided to stay in Rodeo (north of Durango) because we don't like cities and didn't want to deal with finding a place to stay in the city. Also it was getting late to the point that we didn't know how far we could get past Durango before it got 'too late'. So we found a nice place to stay (with a restaurant) in Rodeo so we were happy to call it an early night.


Our downtown Hotel ... was a very busy area all the time


Noticed that lots of elderly people go for a walk downtown... This poor fella could only take one step every 10 seconds.

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Old 10-14-2010, 09:24 PM   #98
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Day 31 (250km): Rain?? What's that.

The housekeeper at the Hotel was very friendly and we had a nice conversation with her before we left. One of the best parts of traveling is meeting great people. A friend of ours (Gerardo from Chiapas) warned us that the Gulf of Mexico route had suffered damage during the rainy season so we had to change our plans and are now taking the Pacific route through Mexico (HWY 200).


The road to Rodeo, Durango.

Once we were on the road we were grateful we had decided to stay in Rodeo. The drive to Durango was longer than we had expected and there were a few sketchy spots, one in particular where the road suddenly changed two different levels. Alberto had chosen that exact moment to pass a truck and ended up pulling off quite the stunt... I was glad he's riding an F800GS and not his Yamaha R6. Durango seemed like any other city to us; we are just not city people so we have a hard time appreciating cities. Getting through town and en route to Mazatlan was not the easiest but there were signs, even though they were confusing.

Cool rock formation

It was cold for the first time today and we even got sprinkled on briefly. Rain... I forgot what that was. The road to Mazatlan is twisty so welcome back the 'Mexican Hello' and getting stuck behind large trucks. We stopped at a nice hotel in El Salto, which was good timing because an hour later it was raining pretty hard.Also my Sitka Hoodie, which served me so well in the US, had to make a comeback last night. It was cold!


'DO NOT READ THE MAGS' .... I thought it was funny how different things work here than in Canada ....
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:28 AM   #99
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Day 32 (443km): Attack of the Mexican Toll Road

There was the cutest stray dog at the hotel. He slept between our two bikes. He looked like a black lab, about 6-8 months old. He was so curious when we were packing our bikes, but sadly we had to leave him behind.

It was cold for the first time in a long time. I had my heated grips on minimum. The road was curvy, but the road surface was terrible. I think I've given up on sportbike riding in Mexico. The other tricky thing about these narrow mountain roads is passing large trucks. It's like russian roulette. The combination makes for a very tiring ride. I guess I'm a hater.


Espinazo del Diablo


Photo stop


View @ the top

Once we got over the mountains it was very warm. We followed the signs to Tepic and ended up on the toll road at first. Then we chose the free alternative route. This was an interesting experience. There was quite a bit of traffic and it was like running a gauntlet constantly overtaking one large truck after another. We were getting tired of this process and felt it was getting unsafe so we went back on the toll road. This was short lived once we discovered how many toll booths there were. So we finished up the journey on the libre route (back to the painful procession of slow moving large vehicles).


Some of the vistas. Too bad these roads have no shoulder to stop for more pictures


For the record

We arrived in Tepic and started the search for a place to stay. Unfortunately it was rush hour so that made the process a little more stressful. We ended up caving and staying at a fancy hotel (the first one we saw).


Endless mountains @ El Espinazo del Diablo HWY


Tall walls

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Old 10-16-2010, 08:34 AM   #100
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Day 33 (384km): Mexico 200, our bread and butter

We managed to navigate our way out of Tepic with only one wrong turn, so we felt pretty good about that. We were traveling south on 200. 200 follows the coast south through Mexico and it will be our home for the next few days. Things started out okay but soon took a turn for the worse. We came upon a very large convoy of vehicles stuck behind a bus and an 18 wheeler. We spent probably 40min going under the speed limit stuck behind the long line of traffic on twisty roads. It finally opened up and we got by, and the rest of the way to Puerto Vallarta was more or less smooth sailing.

Driving in and out of Puerto Vallarta sucked. There was tons of traffic and it was hot. The combination of heat and moving slowly on a motorbike is terrible. We found ourselves downtown and used a public beach access to go see what the beach was all about. There was a beach volleyball tournament going on as well (I think Canada was playing). The water was nice but the sand was rough and beach was nothing special.


The beach, downtown Puerto Vallarta


Alberto stopped to watch a volleyball tourney (or just the gals...)


Gore-tex baby!


Happy kids


Pto. Vallarta

Once we left the general area of Puerto Vallarta and the subsequent traffic it was actually pretty nice. I think we entered another state and the road surface was significantly better. There also wasn't as much traffic. We pushed ourselves today and made it to B. de Navidad. Couldn't really tell if the town looked cool cause it was dark when we arrived.

One doesn't have to pay hundreds of dollars to enjoy the beach at Pto. Vallarta


Local kids @ Pto. Vallarta


Okay... time to hit the road again

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Old 10-20-2010, 09:01 AM   #101
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Day 34 (270km): Saturdays are when the magic happens

The humidity, my god the humidity. I don't think I'm designed to handle humidity very well. Being stopped on the bike is like a kind of torture, so the best thing is to keep moving, and fast. Today was the most amazing ride since arriving to Meixco I think. We may have just got lucky, or maybe Saturdays are normally quiet but we practically had the road to ourselves and it was twisty. It was actually fun riding. It was also like being on safari thanks to the plethora of wildlife sunbathing on the road: green lizards, iguanas, tarantulas, a GIANT frog/toad...


Ocean vista


Snack break with a nice view


Ride break


Getting some gas

Today something great happened. The drivers in Tecuman were both friendly and courteous. I was in shock, but also very thankful. I wish I could say the same for the rest of Mexico so far.

Somewhere between Tecuman and Playa Azul are a bunch of ecotourism camps which have nice facilities: camping, cabanas, restaurant. It was great. We passed probably about 5 or 6. We ended up staying at one and it was great. Fairly cheap camping and right on the beach. This was only the second time we've seen official camping (the other time was outside Creel). I wish there were ecotourism camps all along the coast because they are my ideal camping spot.


Gravely beach


Doesn't this dry piece of wood look like a monster?


Our camping spot for the night




Sunset view from our tent


Silky foam


The local fishermen


Days like this make for a nice history


The beach


Say hello to my little friend


Talking about life, talking about bikes


Night night


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Old 10-20-2010, 09:08 AM   #102
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Day 35 (435km): A chance to use the hammock

We tried to get on the road before the sun really came out and we were rewarded by some nice coolish riding temperatures. 200 was more of the same: twisty with an occasional glimpse of the ocean. There were some bizarre unsigned sections of road construction; that kept us on our toes.

We had lunch in Oxxo, which is sad but it had AC and that was the deal breaker. We had initially just stopped for a snack (from our own supplies) but then caved and bought some sandwiches at the Oxxo so we could eat inside. In the afternoon we drove through some serious rain. We were soaked within seconds but it was a nice change of pace because it cooled us down.

We had some issues with the signage but we made it to Pie de la Cuesta and found a nice campground/RV park. It's right on the beach and all the campsites have palm trees. Actually the palm trees are the boundaires between sites, pretty cool. We immediately went down to the beach and Alberto did some bodyboarding in the surf. We are just north of Acapulco Bay.


Campsite with ocean view


Little crabie making his home


Alberto: "My herniated disc can kiss my a$$"


The beach all to ourselves


Adventure riders: It's a tough life!


Surfing pelicanos



Camping with music


Our setup



The fun of camping: make your own food


The finished product


Al final del dia


When the sun goes down in Acapulco: it's quite something

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Old 10-20-2010, 09:13 AM   #103
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Day 36 (0km): The good life is just too good

We couldn't resist staying another day, and we rewarded because there was a nice breeze pretty much all day. The breeze combined with the shade from the palm trees at our campsite created a deadly combination of comfortably living conditions.

Unlike the previous night camping it never got cold in the night. No need for sleeping bags here, and certainly no need for our -12 rated sleeping bags. hahaha. There was an amazing thunder/lightening storm during the night and we panicked and put up our tent fly. The rain never made it to us but it came pretty close. Too bad actually because the rain would have cooled things off a bit. It was cute though, the campground host offered to let us move our tent under the palapas. We assured him that our tent had been tested extensively in rain back in Canada, which he seemed satisfied with. The other campers took him up on the offer though. They looked like they had a superstore tent though.

A day of rest includes complete laundry overhaul (now hanging on my clothesline between the palm trees), relaxing at the beach/in hammock, making awesome food using our little MSR dragonfly... I enjoy cooking for myself while on the road because it is so much healthier. Due to the camping nature and limited space on the bikes we only use minimal ingredients so the meals end up being nice and pure. Weird cause I never cook at home.


Laundry day

It's the good life hanging around the campsite listening to the surf pounding on the beach.


Enjoying some time in the hammock


Having fun in the water ala 'Huanchaco Beach (Peru) 1992'


A biggie one!

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Old 10-20-2010, 09:16 AM   #104
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Day 37 (417km): Twilight Zone

The first challenge of the day was getting through Acapulco and back on 200. I think Acapulco is the capital of VW Beattles. They use them as cabs, but we also saw tons of personal ones; they were everywhere. Getting through Acapulco wasn't too bad, but there was one crazy intersection where the traffic lights meant nothing. Buses would get stuck in the intersection and it took us three green lights to make it through (we were practically at the front) and there was lots of horn honking. Eventually there were signs directing us back to 200, but we had to take the Cuota route to Mexico DF first. We were on the road for 3km, and then had to pay a toll when we exited. Mexican toll roads are blatant theft! Then the real kicker, right after the toll booth was a section of road, maybe 3km, with probably 30 speed bumps. It was ridiculous. I'm sure glad I paid that toll.


View: leaving Acapulco

Alberto: “OMG, that was a rough one”

Me: “Yeah I saw you bouncing all over the place so I slowed down more.”
Alberto: “What's that speed bump for??? Stopping a tank!?!”

The road was mostly inland today, so there wasn't much scenery. We didn't really even see any interesting wildlife. The destination for the day was Puerto Escondido. The bizarre thing about riding in this heat/humidity is that I now think 30 degrees is cold.


Road to Pto Escondido


Palm-tree country

Arriving to Zicatela beach and subsequent Hotel strip (in Puerto Escondido) was like entering the twilight zone. We'd stumbled upon a gringo surfer community. Lots of funky shops, hotels, restaurants, and people walking about in flip-flops. A guy from the Sunshine Coast approached us to pimp his hotel. We were tired and didn't feel like shopping around so we accepted. It was 1 block up from the main beach avenue but it was a really nice set-up. Our room, and from what I can tell most of the rooms, have their own private set-ups. We had a deck, hammock and roof tanning spot. The room had AC (a deal breaker after wearing bike gear all day) and a kitchenette too. I totally want to come back here with a bunch of friends: Casa de Dan y Carmen. It would be a good place to stay.

After a well earned shower we went down and walked the strip. We had dinner at a pizzeria. It was really nice because there was a breeze off the ocean and they made fresh juice.


Casa de Dan y Carmen. Our room is beyond the pool (2nd floor)

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Old 10-20-2010, 09:18 AM   #105
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Thanks ADVExplorer! Naomi was fine after the collision because she had MORE HORSE POWER! (as a friend of us said) hahaha.

Thanks for reading our RR!

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Glad you're ok after the horse collision! I'm really enjoying your report, great photos and documenting the trip. Ride safe! Cheers
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