ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Bikes > Thumpers
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-23-2010, 08:41 PM   #16
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
You will need to get a DR350SE crank and starter clutch set (starter clutch, bearing and gear). I think the magneto will work but the dirt crank does not have room for a starter clutch set. Some pictures, here.
Thanks for the help. Both of the DRs I'm working with are kickstart only. I saw the issues you were having on your build and asked about kickstart-only compatibility and you replied:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
The starter clutch is only for electric start. The dirt and street magnetos did look like if you took the starter clutch off they would be the same, but I didn't actually do that and the fiche does show different part numbers.
94 DR350 32102-14D30
94 DR350SE 32102-14D50
So I'm assuming neither bike has a starter clutch and maybe I can use the 350 dirt crank??? Ultimately I just need to tear into both bikes and see what I'm working with. But I really appreciate any input you have.
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-23-2010, 11:42 PM   #17
DisTech
Studly Adventurer
 
DisTech's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Location: Seattle
Oddometer: 616
I remember the question, sorry I didn't connect it with this thread. In this thread I was thinking you had an electric start DR250S. 93 was the first year electric start DR250, I should have checked.

So, DR350 kick crank and big bore top end in a DR250S kick bottom end. That should go together nice. Looking forward to your progress.
__________________
DisTech - Suzuki (1993 DR350S & 1994 DR350, 1996 DR650/DR790), BMW (1999 R1100GS)
DisTech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2010, 09:40 AM   #18
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Quote:
Originally Posted by DisTech
So, DR350 kick crank and big bore top end in a DR250S kick bottom end. That should go together nice.
Excellent
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2010, 02:07 PM   #19
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Here are some weight measurements I took with some cheap bathroom scales. The first column is front tire weight, the second is rear and the third is total.

98 DR350___121__137__258
91 DR250S__126__165__291
difference____5___28___33
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2010, 08:20 PM   #20
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Just some random comments on the bikes

I should be making the initial parts order for this build next week (engine gaskets, rings, valve seals). Unfortunately I won't be able to get started on the build right away, as I have a couple XR engines builds that I need to get out of the way first.

In the mean time I've been riding the two DR's a lot recently on some short trails in back of my house. I've had the 350 for nearly a year and I almost never use the decomp lever because the engine is so easy to turn over. I've wondered if that might indicate engine issues, but I don't have the right size adapter for my compression tester so that hasn't been checked. But the new-to-me DR250 is nearly impossible to kick over without the compression release, so my guess is the 350 needs some engine work.

Despite the needed engine work, the 350 has loads more power than the 250, but that's not saying much. The 250 leaves a lot to be desired in the power department. If the difference between the 350 and the 440 big bore kit is as much as the difference between the 250 and the 350, I'll be a real happy camper.
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2010, 09:46 PM   #21
shearboy2004
KIWIINUSA
 
shearboy2004's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Ft Collins ,Colorado
Oddometer: 4,339
Mate you have the same model as me 98 dirt , I believe that this model was a sort of a transition one as it had both auto decompression and the manual lever . I removed the lever as like you found i never needed it .

I have since converted it to electric start and gone 450cc with Yamaha front end along with the odd other bling!
__________________
88 R100GS
75 Norton Commando Roadster
98 DR450
07 Sherco 450 called BLING.
07 Sherco 510 called Holy Shit .
shearboy2004 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2010, 09:02 AM   #22
motoman250f
Gnarly Adventurer
 
Joined: Aug 2004
Oddometer: 432
Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
For the front, I'm tentatively planning on just adding a brace. Do you use one? If so, what brand and how do you like it?
Hope I'm not sticking my nose where it doesn't belong because I don't have a dr but,, The loose feeling in my experience on many klr's, sherpa, xl's etc has been almost completely solved with fork braces. the kdx is the only bike I've added a brace to and had it not improve much but its a pretty large fork tube and a lighter bike compared to the others. One thing I notice is if you turn the bars up to the steering stop and can push on the front of the front wheel with 1 finger and can get it to move more than about a half inch its almost emergency to get a brace on it. This is because as your in a rut or any uneven surface the front wheel will wander and that creates an unstalble feel and takes away your confidence. This is why on inverted forks they keep going larger on the fork tubes, IMHO adds rigidity, you cant put a brace on an inverted fork. Just my 2 cents,,

good luck Paul!
Ion H.
motoman250f is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2010, 10:39 AM   #23
a1fa
Riding Nomad™
 
a1fa's Avatar
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Location: Arkansas
Oddometer: 13,547
Subscribed!
__________________
Learn to ride. Ride to learn.
a1fa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2010, 12:49 PM   #24
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004
Mate you have the same model as me 98 dirt , I believe that this model was a sort of a transition one as it had both auto decompression and the manual lever . I removed the lever as like you found i never needed it .
That makes sense. The bike seems to be in great shape, makes good power, and doesn't smoke.
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 08:19 AM   #25
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
I got tired of waiting for money for parts so I pulled the bikes in the shop to start working on whatever I could do without parts.



First thing I did was swap the forks. Both bikes have 43mm forks, so the job was very straight forward. According to previous comments in this thread, the '98 350 had cartridge forks while the '91 250 didn't. But the '91 250 has adjustable compression, so I'm guessing it too has cartridge forks.

Differences:
- The 98 350 has a larger axle
- The 91 250S has adjustable compression and preload while the 98 350 has adjustable compression and rebound.
- The 91 250S has a longer brake line so it can get around the gauge cluster (this might be helpful to someone installing taller forks on their bike).
- The 250S has fine thread on the caliper banjo bolt while the 350 has course threads.
- The 250S upper triple clamps have extra brackets for the gauges.

Done:


Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2010, 10:33 AM   #26
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
The DR250S's battery weights 3lb, 12oz. I hope to eliminate this.

Pablo83 screwed with this post 02-03-2011 at 07:30 AM
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2010, 08:35 PM   #27
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Does anyone know the stock front and rear spring rates on the '98 DR350 kicker?
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2010, 06:12 AM   #28
BikePilot
Beastly Adventurer
 
BikePilot's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Tampa
Oddometer: 11,206
Great project.

For the record the cartridge forks, while nice aren't sourced from any RM and aren't really even similar to RM forks (RM conventionals from the mid-late 90s were 49mm twin chambers).

Stock fork springs I think were .38kg, but you can look it up on racetech's site. This is really too soft for anything without pedals.

The '91 forks are damper rod (non-cartridge) forks. Adjustable compression has nothing to do with the type of valving.

The stock shock spring is pretty stiff and probably just fine as long as you aren't huge.

Boxing in the swingarm will go a long way to keeping the bike straight. The rear shock is also needs valving work quite badly (and the forks need springs badly and could really use a re-valve as well). Between fixing the swingarm and having the suspension sprung and valved properly, it'll be much better. That was going to be my next move on the DR before I decided an XR650R made more sense for me.
__________________
'09 Buell XB12XT, TL1000S, H1F, M620, CR250R, KX100, XR650R, Cota 315R

Summer 2009 Ride Report http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...1509c&t=507038
Summer 2008 RR. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367703

BikePilot screwed with this post 10-11-2010 at 06:42 AM
BikePilot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2010, 07:13 PM   #29
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
Thanks for the info

Quote:
Originally Posted by BikePilot
Great project.

For the record the cartridge forks, while nice aren't sourced from any RM and aren't really even similar to RM forks (RM conventionals from the mid-late 90s were 49mm twin chambers).

Stock fork springs I think were .38kg, but you can look it up on racetech's site. This is really too soft for anything without pedals.

The '91 forks are damper rod (non-cartridge) forks. Adjustable compression has nothing to do with the type of valving.

The stock shock spring is pretty stiff and probably just fine as long as you aren't huge.

Boxing in the swingarm will go a long way to keeping the bike straight. The rear shock is also needs valving work quite badly (and the forks need springs badly and could really use a re-valve as well). Between fixing the swingarm and having the suspension sprung and valved properly, it'll be much better. That was going to be my next move on the DR before I decided an XR650R made more sense for me.
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2010, 07:18 PM   #30
Pablo83 OP
Sleep, Wrench, Ride
 
Pablo83's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Woodland Park, CO
Oddometer: 4,776
The 350's rear fender, subframe, and taillight weigh 3lb 7oz.

The 250's fender, subframe, light and license bracket weight 7lb 8oz. The vast majority of the weight difference is in the license bracket. I'll be attaching the license directly to the fender and saving all that extra weight.

Because of all the offset locations of linkage parts it's tough to determine if all the rear end linkage geometry is identical between the two bikes. Everything looks identical, except the 350's swingarm is 3/16" longer.
Pablo83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 04:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014