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Old 10-19-2011, 07:40 PM   #316
Airvent
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Any 1996+ dr650 footpeg will fix the 350. They are bigger and obviously OEM quality. I got mine for like 10 bucks "used"
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Old 11-21-2011, 08:34 PM   #317
Pablo83 OP
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My clutch started slipping yesterday. Does anyone have a preferred clutch brand?
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Old 11-21-2011, 09:40 PM   #318
shearboy2004
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You still have the standard clutch in there Mate ?

If you have that's a good thing, I went with Barnett and didn't really like the grabby bugger so went back to standard with the Barnett springs , that worked great but I felt the clutch pull was a bit hard so I then changed out half the springs for standard ones and it is perfect.


The big bore is a bit tough on the standard clutch but the heavy springs solved the problem for me .
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:02 AM   #319
Greg Bender
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The previous owner replaced the clutch before I got my DR...and I'm still running whatever he put in there (hence, no direct experience from me). I seem to recall reading (over at Max-Zuki) that it is important to use Suzuki steel plates, but that the friction plate material can be whatever you like. I've also heard of guys just replacing half or all of the springs with heavier duty ones and that solving the problem (at least for a while).

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Old 11-22-2011, 08:01 AM   #320
Pablo83 OP
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Thanks for the feedback guys.
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Old 11-22-2011, 08:54 AM   #321
wide
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Topical..... my clutch is now slipping like a biatchh!!!
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:37 PM   #322
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I pretty sure most of you already know that using automotive motor oil can also cause slipping...
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:21 PM   #323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bleary View Post
I pretty sure most of you already know that using automotive motor oil can also cause slipping...
The extra 100cc did it for me.

I use Mobil 1 20/50 and with half Barnett springs I have no problem at all.
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Old 11-25-2011, 05:16 AM   #324
Bleary
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Noob status. Speaks Noob Words!
Mr Pulldown, you are a Richard Crainium.
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Old 11-26-2011, 05:16 AM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
It might have been dicked to call you out like that. But you don't need to write such false statements...
Not a false claim. Automotive oils that have API ratings SL and SM ratings have friction reduction modifiers which are required in cars They are not suitable for wet clutch multi-plates. The only API ratings that are applicable to motorcycle engines are oils that are of API SF or SG ratings. Check any bike manual and most of them are of this specification.

However I did own a 1995 DR-350 dirt model, plated. I used automotive oil. Perhaps his clutch is worn out or perhaps it's the oil.

As a side note, just because someone has a low post count does not mean they are stupid. I only post when I have something to add to the conversation unlike so many that post "I'm in! " or .
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Old 11-26-2011, 01:33 PM   #326
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Only those with friction reducing modifiers cause issue. Not all auto oils. No auto oil in the 40w range (which our bikes almost all bikes needs) have such low friction additives. Your blanket statement that "Auto oils cause clutch slippage" is not correct. Friction Modifiers cuase clutch slippage in auto oils or any oils.

I have only used auto oils in all my bikes and have never had clutch slippage. Unless I slip a clutch that is.

I am going to go back and nuke all this oil bickering, and not dirty up Pablo's build thread. I jsut hate it when the bike shop guys tell people that you need to buy special motor cycle oil, when the truth is you jsut need NOT to buy special auto oil or additives.
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Old 11-30-2011, 06:07 PM   #327
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Just replaced the slipping clutch in my 1991 DR350 with an EBC kit last weekend and it seems to be working fine. CANNOT use the steel clutch plates supplied in their kit, tho -- they're a little thicker than OEM and the extra thickness keeps the clutch from releasing no matter how you adjust. Took the clutch apart three times before I figured out what the problem was, a little frustrating. Reused the old OEM steel plates and it works great now. A plus of the EBC kit is that the springs must be a little stronger, based on heavier pull at the clutch lever.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
My clutch started slipping yesterday. Does anyone have a preferred clutch brand?
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:27 PM   #328
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Clutch Postmortem

I changed the clutch today. Service limit for friction disk thickness is 2.42mm. Here's what mine measured:

2.76
2.69
2.54
2.15
2.56
2.62
2.72

You'll notice they get thinner as they go towards the center. Here's what the center disk looked like:



It's kind of a crappy picture, so in case you can't make it out, the cork squares are completely gone on this one. There was visible damage to other disks as well, but this one was by far the worst.

My guess is this happened on the day I sent the engine temp through the roof. It was a real tough hillclimb and I was in the wrong gear. I didn't want to shift down because it would have caused me to come to a complete stop and I would have needed to really roost the trail to get started again. So I essentially sacrificed my clutch to prevent making a rut. It seems the clutch pack retained a lot of heat near the center and roasted those plates.

Pablo83 screwed with this post 12-15-2011 at 07:32 PM
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Old 12-15-2011, 07:28 PM   #329
Pablo83 OP
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Oil

I run Valvoline VR1 racing oil (auto oil with friction modifiers) due to it's availability and high ZDDP content (highest I could find without special ordering oil)

I can't say if non-modified oil would have held any better, but if my clutch gets this badly roasted in the future, I would want it to start slipping (just like it did) so I know there's a problem, so I'll keep using VR1.
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:46 PM   #330
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Can anyone recommend a good coil?

I'd like to see a fatter spark on my bike. From what I understand, most DR's have a weaker-than-normal spark, and mine is no exception. I'd like to try a better coil. Any suggestions?
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