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Old 03-20-2013, 07:39 PM   #436
das ist gut
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Location: working on the bucket list @ 6400 feet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
I think someone asked a while back if I could copy the pattern for the pieces to box the swingarm. I just found those patterns. If you still want them, post up.
yes, I would like to see the pattern.
I am sending my email separately

thank you Pablo
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Old 03-24-2013, 07:44 PM   #437
MrPulldown
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
I replaced the battery with a 2200 uf capacitor rated for 35V (RadioShack, $5).
Sorry, no pictures, but it's an easy process: cut the battery leads, solder in the capacitor (note the + and - sides on the cap), and wrap it all in elec tape. It worked great, at idle the headlight doesn't flicker at all.

[NOTE] Late last summer, my neutral light stopped working below 4k RPM and my RPM gauge was acting funny was well. I turned out to be a broken connection with the cap. I've made the new connection more durable so hopefully I won't have the problem again.
Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Ele...item1c174bbe3b

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?
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Old 03-28-2013, 08:17 AM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Ele...item1c174bbe3b

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?
I wouldn't worry about discharging the cap into yourself and dying. At the 12 to 14 volts that you would be putting into the cap you could easily touch both ends with licked fingers and not feel a thing.

If I were you guys and were thinking about doing this, I would solder the capacitor to a piece of PCB and then solder much larger leads so that the wires weren't directly tugging on the thin capacitor leads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RadioShack-P...588#vi-content

Something like that, then drill a much larger gauge hole for the leads the connect to where the battery was.
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:08 PM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?
Yep. I found one at Radio Shack that had the leads on opposite ends which made it a little easier to work with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Any other tips.
There is a + and - side to the cap. Be sure to install it like you would a battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying.
You can short the two ends with a screwdriver blade or put some type of load on it, like turning on the headlight without the engine running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?
I have no clue. 2200uF was recommended somewhere else (I forget where) and it has worked well for me so far.
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:58 PM   #440
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1990 DR250S transmission

1990 DR250S (wide ratio) transmission on eBay, $95:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400448012004...84.m1423.l2649

This winter has really been great for finding some of the more rare parts that I used on my bike. I now have 1 spare oil cooler and 2 spare trannys for my bike, and another one just popped up on eBay. Anyone can feel free to grab it. I would buy it at that price if I didn't have enough extras all ready.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:09 AM   #441
Wadester
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
1990 DR250S (wide ratio) transmission on eBay, $95:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400448012004...84.m1423.l2649

This winter has really been great for finding some of the more rare parts that I used on my bike. I now have 1 spare oil cooler and 2 spare trannys for my bike, and another one just popped up on eBay. Anyone can feel free to grab it. I would buy it at that price if I didn't have enough extras all ready.
Got it! Thanks!
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:55 PM   #442
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Is there any issue running the 250 granny in a electric start 350 case?
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Old 04-05-2013, 06:17 PM   #443
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown View Post
Is there any issue running the 250 granny in a electric start 350 case?
Neither of my bikes where elec start, so I don't know. Is there any difference between the 350 kicker tranny and the 350 SE tranny? If not, I bet the 250 tranny would work just fine.
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #444
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Anyone in the Mass area looking for a bike?

Check this out:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111118856745

He says he's negotiable, so picking up this bike for $300 might be feasible. It's a bit of a gamble, but most likely the shifting problem is because the shift drum bolt has backed all the way out (an easy fix). This is the same bike I started my project with and it has the wide ratio tranny.
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Old 10-01-2013, 08:28 PM   #445
psmcd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pablo83 View Post
I think someone asked a while back if I could copy the pattern for the pieces to box the swingarm. I just found those patterns. If you still want them, post up.
Hey Pablo, nice thread. I just picked up a 99 DR350 and figure I'll want to box the swingarm. Any chance you still have those patterns? I'll send a PM. Thanks!
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Old 11-05-2013, 06:30 AM   #446
mellephants
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Why not try an RMx swingarm? Seems so much easier.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:02 AM   #447
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psmcd View Post
Hey Pablo, nice thread. I just picked up a 99 DR350 and figure I'll want to box the swingarm. Any chance you still have those patterns? I'll send a PM. Thanks!
Did you get the patterns?
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:39 PM   #448
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I bought a suit to complement the bike:

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Old 01-19-2014, 06:04 PM   #449
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Old 02-16-2014, 10:15 PM   #450
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DR350 oil cooler

I have been following of few of the built for the DR350, and bought for $20 an oil cooler for a DR650 and one for a honda TRX250 recon for another $20 and the OE cooler hoses for the DR350 so I can mess them up.

So if we match and blend the XR250 cooler and the DR350 hoses we get something like this




Naaah, too big, mudgaurd, tank, radius of line will not do.... Hoses are on the wrong side for image taking, but hard to fit them ... need a smaller cooler.



Now the catch is to find a good way to attach the cooler to the frame and there is little room on the frame to do it, any ideas. I was thinking of P clamp,



As said earlier the XR400 cooler is ideal, you need more involved plumbing to reach this location.

letank screwed with this post 02-25-2014 at 05:22 PM Reason: ooops it is not a XR but a TRX250
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