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Old 11-05-2010, 07:43 AM   #46
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
China

Noticed you said that the 350 has larger axles? Whouldn't that make the wheels different? Can you simple stick the 350 axles into the 250?
The Honda NX650 and XR650L have different sized axles, but use the same hub. They do this by using different wheel bearings. So it's highly possible you could do this with the DR's too, but I didn't measure the outer bearing diameters to see if they were the same. The DR250S's front hub has a four bolt rotor, and the 350's hub has a six bolt rotor so that's another difference between the two.
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:52 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
The Honda NX650 and XR650L have different sized axles, but use the same hub. They do this by using different wheel bearings. So it's highly possible you could do this with the DR's too, but I didn't measure the outer bearing diameters to see if they were the same. The DR250S's front hub has a four bolt rotor, and the 350's hub has a six bolt rotor so that's another difference between the two.
Older 350:s also has the 4 bolted rotor and 15mm axle.
Newer has the 6 bolted rotor and 17mm axle.
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:27 AM   #48
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the 97 up dr350 use the same front wheel and i think forks as the drz250
the 96 up dr650 uses the same front wheel too
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Old 11-05-2010, 01:49 PM   #49
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I know I said this would be a budget build, but I sold a bike recently so I had some extra lewt for a big tank. The DR350 tank would have probably been plenty big for most trips, but sometimes I'm tooling around in the mountains all day and don't want to have to go find gas, so I opted for this 4.5 gallon one. I also got a new front rotor (mine is cracked), the peg extensions (that I already installed), a manual, a swingarm bearing kit, and a brake switch for a different bike.

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Old 11-05-2010, 02:08 PM   #50
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Front brakes

Before buying the DR I reviewed a bunch of parts prices for various bikes. The DR seemed to have reasonable OEM parts prices which is one of many reasons that I chose it.

One of the first parts I needed to replace was the front rotor, which turns out to be stupid expensive (I think it was $180). I found a floating EBC rotor from ProCycle for $160 so I got it instead. It turns out this is an MX oversized rotor. The info on the website did not state that it was an oversized rotor, but I could have easily discovered that with a little more research. I'm a little put off that ProCycle did not mention that, but it's mainly my fault [NOTE: I think ProCycle is a great site and I would definitely recommend them and buy from them again, I'd just do more research first]. For future reference, the stock rotor size is 250mm, the EBC MX rotor is 280, ProCycle also offers a 320mm supermoto rotor.

Stock rotor compared to EBC oversized:



The reason I would prefer the stock size is I don't ride asphalt much and I often end up riding through boulder fields so I'd like to keep the rotor as far away from the rocks as possible. The MX rotor kit comes with a new bracket to relocate the caliper. The installation is straightforward and the parts seem to be of good quality.

Here it is installed:


I've had other rotors crack due to seized caliper pots or pins. I could not find anything wrong with the operation of the caliper so I cleaned up the old rotor real good to inspect the cracks. After cleaning them up, it turns out the cracks are not cracks, but just some anomalies in the metal; I assume this is part of the manufacturing process. So the stock rotor is going to go back on and this MX kit will get shelved.

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Old 11-05-2010, 02:24 PM   #51
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4.2 Gal Clarke Tank

The tank has a real tight fit which might be a bit stubborn for trail maintenance. I'm real happy I can get a tank in this size. I run 4.5 gallons on my WR and that seems to be enough for any trip I've done without being cumbersome. I'm guessing the DR will get better mileage than the WR and 4.2 gallons will take me just as far on this bike.

I prefer the clear tank so I can see how much gas I have, but I know it's not the best looking thing out there.

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Old 11-05-2010, 02:45 PM   #52
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Swingarm!!!

Let's get started with the swingarm.



The swingarm is made from three pieces. There is the cast front section that houses the bearings and there are two forged arms. They are connected with four square-drive bolts per side. In addition to the bolts, the arms are also epoxied to the front piece. The epoxy looks just like JBweld.

Here's what I think the main problem is:



The arms are C-sections where most swingarms are fully boxed. I will cut pieces of aluminum to fit the insides of the swingarm and weld them in to make a fully boxed arm.

Another aspect of the swingarm that might be causing flex is this E-section part on the outside:



I will also box this in. I'm guessing after the whole thing is boxed, this E-section center will be unnecessary so I plan to drill out a lot of it before I box it in. I hope to be able to improve the swingarm strength without adding weight.

I also plan to weld the arms to the front section and remove the bolts. I don't know what alloys the swingarm is made out of so this leaves a lot of guess work. There is a lot of room for disaster with this project. It looks like a used swingarm can be had off eBay for about $100 so I'm not risking too much here.

I have chosen 5052 Alu for boxing the rear swingarm. 5052 provides the best as-welded (no temper) strength. ESAB recommends 5356 filler rod for the least chance of cracking when welding 5052, so that's what I'm going with. The biggest concern I have is whether the front piece and arms will both accept the 5052 filler so I can weld the thing together. The next biggest concern is if the epoxy will contaminate the welds.

The aluminum and filler rod were not available locally so I ordered them from McMaster-Carr. I got the aluminum a few days ago and the filler rod arrived today so I should be able to get started on this next week.

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Old 11-05-2010, 07:02 PM   #53
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Good luck. thanks for posting your work.
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:18 PM   #54
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I started on the swingarm today. The first test was to see if I could weld the arms the the front section with the 5356 filler.

All cleaned up and ready to weld:



Success!



Now to see if I can weld a full seam:



I get half way through and something seriously contaminates the weld:



I grind it out and try again, but get the same thing. I grind and re-weld multiple times with no success. Even when I start with something that looks this nice, the weld turns to crap:



I try to weld a different seam with a little better luck, but there is still a lot of contamination. Normally I would be fine with a weld like this, but this is such an important structural area that I'm not going to risk it.



I'm pretty sure what is happening is the epoxy is causing the contamination. So the next thing to try is to remove the bolts and disassemble the swingarm so all the epoxy can be removed. Some of the bolts have epoxy on the back so I sand that off first.



The bolts are square drive so I grind of a phillips tip and use it to remove the bolts. I have to hammer it into the bolt heads. It fits very snugly.




The first bolt come out alright, but none of the others want to. I grind down an impact driver bit so I can apply more force. The bolt doesn't move. I get a bigger hammer and the bit shatters.




A this point I'm thinking that the arms are very securely attached to the front piece and I don't really need to worry about welding it all together.
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Old 11-07-2010, 08:26 PM   #55
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I've done a fair amount of damage to this swingarm at this point so I'd rather start with another one. Since this one will likely die in the name of research, I continue with some other plans to test them. I remove the middle ridge on the outside and drill a large lightening hole in the middle.



But the bit floats some and misses where it is supposed to come out. I need it to exit on the arm only and miss the center section. Now this swingarm is really messed up.



I continue with a second lightening hole and that seems to go well.



So does anyone know of a cheap used swingarm?
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:39 AM   #56
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I took a little longer than I thought to find a good used swingarm, but I did:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2#ht_959wt_940

So I should be back in business soon.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:36 AM   #57
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Old 11-17-2010, 11:42 AM   #58
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dont mess it up this time :)
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:13 PM   #59
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So, first you put in time and effort in making the swing arm stronger by welding and stuff, then you drill big holes in it?
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:24 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3uba296
So, first you put in time and effort in making the swing arm stronger by welding and stuff, then you drill big holes in it?
Actually I'm drilling the holes first and then trying to fix the problems I've created.
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