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Old 12-05-2010, 05:47 PM   #31
fredz43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamapacker View Post
I have an audiovox, made an adaptor for the Versys throttle, so will be watching how you solve this problem on the S10.

No rush, I have . . . . . err . . . about 5 months.
Is that the vacuum operated CSS 100 (or is it CCS 100?) Audiovox? I have installed several on ST1300's and have a spare that I would like to install on my S10 when it gets here, but wondering if we will have room for the servo unit.
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Old 12-07-2010, 06:54 AM   #32
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Yes, that is the same one. Space could be a problem for sure. Not a high priority for me, but it is sitting here, might as well check out the possibilities for hooking it up.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:02 AM   #33
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It's been a few months since I worked on this project but I arced it up again yesterday and things are now progressing quite well.

After much deliberation, I decided to connect the cruise control cable to the top of the throttle assembly and have it pull towards the back of the bike. I just wasn't happy with the lack of clearance underneath the throttle and the difficulty I would face trying to mount the cruise control cable in a straight line. Since the throttle cable return anchor is such a tight fit, I decided to just loop the loop cable option around the return cable and have it pull tight against the return anchor as shown.



I have located the cruise control unit where I previously had, namely on the right hand side of the fuel tank well towards the right throttle body. This is a nice snug fit, so much so that there is no need to bolt it in there. I run the cruise control cable up through the chassis, underneath the air filter box from right to left then back into the fuel tank well reversing back towards the throttle assembly.



I have mounted a bracket on the sub-frame that positions the cable the right distance and in line with the throttle pulley. I would have preferred to mount the cable back another 5 mm from the throttle pulley but this would have caused interference with the radiator hose below it. As such, there is a couple of mm slack in the cable at idle, which is similar and was actually required for when I had this unit installed on my V-Strom.



The cruise control cable does dip into the throttle assembly when the throttle is twisted and the cruise control is not engaged, however it does seem to have adequate clearance from the lower tang upon which it could potentially get snagged.



Here's a little movie showing the clearance.



As a safety precaution for the final install. I will construct something that makes sure the cruise control cable can never get below the throttle tang and therefore snag but at this stage I am happy to trial it this way.

Next up will be the wiring, per the diagram I posted on page 1 of this thread. Upon re-review of the wiring today, I noticed that the wire I chose for the Vehicle Speed Sensor line appears to be the tacho line (blue/yellow). Unless anyone else can point me to the right wire going to the speedo assembly, I will probably have to tap into one of the wheel speed sensors going to the ABS/TCS unit.

As we are set for a scorcher of a week here in Canberra next week, I'll resume my efforts in the mornings next weekend.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:30 AM   #34
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You must read your own thread more often!

Check back on 2nd page post #25, Bargenator located the speed sensor wire which runs from the ABS to dash as BLUE.

We have been waiting on your return to hash out the CC, good work so far. I would like to get some more of that slack out tho.
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Old 01-30-2011, 02:49 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamapacker View Post
You must read your own thread more often!

Check back on 2nd page post #25, Bargenator located the speed sensor wire which runs from the ABS to dash as BLUE.

We have been waiting on your return to hash out the CC, good work so far. I would like to get some more of that slack out tho.

LOL, you're right. The info I seek was right here in my own thread. Doh!

Re the slack, I recall from when I tried a near taut connection on my V-Strom only to find that when the CC unit powered on it took in enough slack to not allow my bike to idle anymore. I ended up having to put in about as much slack as you can see in the second picture, so I'm not too concerned about it.

The main thing is that the CC cable doesn't get snagged on anything when the throttle is at WOT and the CC is not active and so far it seems to be well clear even with the slack in the line. If it does turn out to be a problem once the CC cable beds in, I'll try and source a slightly shorter loop cable from Rostra or elsewhere.
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:50 PM   #36
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On the topic of vehicle speed sensing, does anyone know how many pulses per km or mile the S10 ECU sends to the speedo unit? While I could take a guess of it for setting up the cruise control dip switches, I'd prefer to put in the correct setting in the first place rather than have to trial and error to find it. Thanks.
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:10 PM   #37
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The weather has finally cooled down a bit, so I have spent some time today working on this project in the garage.

I wasn't entirely happy with the way I had the CC cable looped over and pulling directly and sideways on the throttle return cable when it was engaged. My concern was that the CC cable would eventually fatigue the thottle cable, cause it to snap and not only stop the CC working but also one half of the throttle cable system (albeit the return side) - not good if you are in the middle of nowhere!

I decided to get the CC cable to loop over the throttle anchor and have it pull directly on that. As I noted earlier in this thread, there is not enough space in the anchor hole to do this so it was out with a semi-circular mini file to make the bottom of the hole deep enough to accommodate the CC cable as well. It is quite a fiddly place to file but I eventually got deep enough to do the even fiddlier job of looping the CC cable over the anchor and putting it back in.

Attached are a couple of pictures of this new connection and a video showing how much cable clearance there is when the CC cable goes slack. You'll note that I didn't get the CC cable underneath the anchor on the right hand side which is because it took me long enough to get the left side looped over properly, the non-fatiguing pulling action I desired is happening and I didn't want to file the anchor hole any more than I had to on concerns of weakening the structure. I am much happier with this connection and will proceed with the wiring this afternoon!





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Old 02-05-2011, 02:16 AM   #38
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Wiring diagram updated with correct VSS signal to come from the ABS ECU:

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Old 02-05-2011, 05:41 AM   #39
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Did you determine the number of pulses to set for the VSS, or will that come after testing?
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:40 PM   #40
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Did you determine the number of pulses to set for the VSS, or will that come after testing?
No I didn't, so I'm just going to have to guess to start with. This setting is used by the CC unit to determine the minimum and maximum speed of engagement and sets the speed increase/decrease increment when you tap set/coast.

This setting can be reverse engineered by seeing what speed increase increment is being achieved versus what is desired, then proportionally adjusting the setting up/down. I like a speed increment of 1 - 1.5 kph, which allows fine tuning of the set speed for the speed camera-happy riding conditions in Australia.

I found all the required wires in the wiring looms last night but wanted to wait for daylight until I cracked out the wire strippers and soldering iron. Assuming I've found the right ones and they do what I think they do, I should be out on the road testing in a couple of hours.
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Old 02-05-2011, 06:40 PM   #41
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Just finished wiring it up. Thankfully, it passed the smoke test and all diagnostic steps EXCEPT the VSS test. When I spin the rear wheel, the speedo registers, but the CC test LED doesn't flash like it is supposed to after a couple of metres simulated movement.

I've tried changing the VSS signal type from square wave to sine wave to no avail. I've also tried changing the pulses per mile setting to a high level and again nogo.

As such, I am now wondering if I chose the right wire. Here's a photo of the loom I hacked into to find the blue wire, which I believe to be the ABS ECU to ECU harness. Perhaps this is the wrong one.



Is there anyone who has installed a speedo healer on an S10 who can show me where the right blue wire is. Any other suggestions would also be appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:09 PM   #42
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Never mind, I think I have found the right loom which is the one next to the one I chose, as highlighted in red in the attached diagram. Lucky it's only a sense line!



Edit: Yep, that's the right one now. All diagnostic tests now pass. Time to put her back together and go for a test ride!
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:52 PM   #43
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SUCCESS boys and girls



Just got back from a 60 km test spin and I can happily say the CC is functional and safe. All disconnects work, namely front brake, rear brake, clutch in, neutral gear and power off. No binding of the throttle and reasonably smooth engagement. It works better in T mode than S mode as T mode is less sensitive.

The CC engages at speeds as low as 40 kph, but it's a bucking bronco down that slow, even with sensitivity set to extra low. At 80 kph it surges a little, but from 100 kph onwards it operates smoothly. I sat on 120 kph indicated on an undulating highway and it sat within -2/+1 kph of the set speed.

The settings I have currently are: extra low gain, 15000 pulses per km, 8 cylinder/low engine/setup timer, square wave VSS source, automatic transmission, open circuit control switch.

I'm going to leave the CC unit swung out externally per the attached picture while I play with the settings some more to hopefully reduce the surging at 80 kph. I consider this a nice to have as my primary objective was to get the thing working at cruise speeds so I am not going to lose sleep if I can't get it better. The throttle movement is very short on the S10, so this may be the best it can do. Noneless, I am very happy



Edit: Update changing a few settings and taking it for another test ride, engagement is nice and gradual and the smoothness is much improved at lower speed, even as low as 60 kph. I changed the pulses per km to the max setting (24 000) and set the engine/setup timer to 4 cylinder/low. I chose the max setting because the rear wheel is roughly 2 metres in circumference with 46 magnet pickup pairs per lap, which works out to be 23 000 pulses per km. The tradeoff for gradual engagement and smoother operation is slightly wider tolerance on the set speed, namely +/-3 kph which is actually the tolerance specified for the CC unit.

To summarise the settings, I am now using extra low gain, 24 000 pulses per km, 4 cylinder/low engine/setup timer, square wave VSS source, automatic transmission, open circuit control switch.

I am so happy with it, I plan to finalise the installation this week then take it out for a 500 km+ ride next weekend to see how it performs under long trip conditions.
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:19 AM   #44
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Super job, I may need this in the future. As to the throw being too quick, I made an arm that gave the CC a longer throw to slow it down on the Versys. But, it was a PITA to make one and fit to the throttle, from your pictures the Super Tenere evens looks harder to do something like that.

I will save the link to this thread, thanks for the pics and documentation.
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Old 02-06-2011, 02:38 PM   #45
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No worries. As you suggest, once the air box goes back on there is no room to accommodate a lever arm on the throttle; it barely clears the throttle neck clamp and vacuum hose with enough safety margin as it is.

I will do a proper writeup, with pics and diagrams, when I'm finished and put a link to it here in this thread and also in my sig.
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