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Old 09-24-2010, 10:01 AM   #16
snoopy OP
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#10: engine mounted!

Here the engine is mounted. I also used the Yanmar exhaust which is a spot on fit. A piece of alloy was used to bring it out a little bit otherwise it fowls the injector runoff pipe.






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Old 09-24-2010, 10:05 AM   #17
spartanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopy
Now that the primary case is reasonably horizontal on your engine get the gearbox bolted in and put the the primary case on that as well.

The following is the part that matters...

The primary case has a spring loaded seal. Your engine height, it's angle and left/right dictates whether this seal presses against the sides and this is easy to see. It should fit bang on in the middle. If compressed it's life is going to be shorter and it means your engine/gearbox drive will be off as well.

So move the engine until;

a) the primary cover sits flat against the gearbox and
b) the seal shows no signs of compression on any side.

When you've done that you know the engine is in the good spot.

Hopefully the engine was lifted from the middle, I should have mentioned that. This means you can make a metal bracket for the gearbox side.

I used 3mm high carbon steel as it's all I could get at the time. A minimum 4mm should be used, others have used 6mm. Mine doesn't flex easily so I was happy to go with it.

The Enfield has two little triangular tabs which most cut off. DO NOT DO THIS. They are part of the frame strength as one Diesel converter found out on his travels. I welded mine to the bracket as can be seen.

Note that I have not used a bracket the full length of the gearbox, primarily so that ;

a) the gearbox can be removed without taking the engine out and
b) what is the point, the gearbox is hardly going to snap.



You might as well split the chain and install a larger sprocket onto the gearbox as well as the original is too small for the low revving Diesel. I went up to an 18 tooth.

This is a cool, worthy project. I love the idea of diesel bike. But I have to say for safety sake, the welds look awful, dangerously so. The "bird poop" looking bead is indicative of low heat and poor penetration. Such a weld will likely fail under load. Take a welding class, practice on some scrap, or find someone who can weld. Your life and that of your mate may depend on it.
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:13 AM   #18
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#11: further electronics

I used the battery to ensure the GPS worked. Most the enfield switches / connectors are unreliable and will have to be replaced at some point.

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Old 09-24-2010, 10:39 AM   #19
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#12: First test

Time to test it out. At this point I was still using the pull start as the technique to the kick start is a bitch and takes practice. In essence you have to kick down and rotate it under the peg a bit to get it started. Pull start is easier but doesn't work with the foot pegs as sticks out too much.

Also at this point there is no way to stop the bike. This requires additional force on the accel mechanism to make it so. I'll come to this later. For now I pull on the mechanism using a spanner








More tomorrow!
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:49 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartanman
This is a cool, worthy project. I love the idea of diesel bike. But I have to say for safety sake, the welds look awful, dangerously so. The "bird poop" looking bead is indicative of low heat and poor penetration. Such a weld will likely fail under load. Take a welding class, practice on some scrap, or find someone who can weld. Your life and that of your mate may depend on it.
This was a MIG on high yield. It mostly looks crap because I put weld upon weld to ensure it was tough. Plenty of wire was used. I did all sides, reverse etc and didn't bother finishing it off properly as it can't be seen. I hope you wont be proved right but hell if it fractures it's easy to fix.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:22 AM   #21
Ash
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris K
Go Dawg!

thanks for the link Chris
Any of Snoops postings/clips are worthy of a read/viewing.
Ball park costs Snoopy /$

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Old 09-24-2010, 03:32 PM   #22
LTP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoopy
This was a MIG on high yield. It mostly looks crap because I put weld upon weld to ensure it was tough. Plenty of wire was used. I did all sides, reverse etc and didn't bother finishing it off properly as it can't be seen. I hope you wont be proved right but hell if it fractures it's easy to fix.
Snoopy,

i admire your spirit, but i have to agree with spartanman on this.

It doesn't matter how much wire you try and weld on, if it isn't penetrating the steel work properly it isn't going to hold. While there is nothing wrong with building welds up, if done properly, it still won't look like that.

Also, i can't see any form of rubber bushes to help reduce the vibration from the engine, and these welds are right next to your mounting points.

Is it not worth getting it checked by a local fabricating shop? you've done the hardwork in getting the steel bend and made up to size. A few hours spent now could save you a whole lot of aggro later on?

good luck with it!

ltp
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:03 PM   #23
Barnone
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snoopy,
Very nice job. Keep the photos and updates coming.
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:15 AM   #24
hairnet
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you are absolutley nuts

love it
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:49 AM   #25
Barnone
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snoopy,
Not to be a hijacker but there was another diesel RE thread that mentioned using a Comet torque converter. I searched and can't find that thread. (EDIT. I found the thread. It was down under.)
Seems this idea would open up a lot more donor bikes. Take a look at
http://gokartsusa.com/Baja-Heat-Mini...Converter.aspx
They have one with a 1" bore on the driver and a 40/41 chain sprocket on the driven side. Might have to adjust the engagement rpm since it says that it engages at 2200 RPM which might be a little high for a diesel.
Any opinion?

Barnone screwed with this post 09-25-2010 at 10:11 AM
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:49 AM   #26
datchew
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We'll need wheelie pics of course.

Is it really loud or is that just the video?
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Old 09-25-2010, 10:33 AM   #27
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The comet thing I'd read about but I'm no expert. I only have a garage of basic tools (yes a better welder is on the list!). A real challenge would be to build one of those Diesel Tigers that can be viewed on YouTube.

The exhaust is loud - very loud. It has me wondering if its a straight-through. It has got quieter since that video was took (that was two weeks ago) and is fine on the road but for some reason idle is as loud as when the engine is opened up.

Ash ... hello :) ... ballpark figures are:

Bike = 750,
Engine = 268
Cog = 10
Machining = 30
New bike cable = 5
Alternator = 35
Speaker cover = 5
Regulator = 2.68

Then there's the bits of metal and any power tools you may need (I have a MIG, bench grinder and pillar drill which helped).

With luck I'll get the updates posted tonight.
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:34 PM   #28
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Thats cool, is it ok to run the primary dry?
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Old 09-25-2010, 11:27 PM   #29
Padmei
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Velly intelesting.

So this can be done with most seperate gearbox unit bikes? Was there much range of diesels engines & if so why go with that one?
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:00 AM   #30
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Great going so far Snoops but I'm confused, what is this "friend" you speak of
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