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Old 02-27-2011, 05:23 AM   #211
datchew
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depending on if you want to keep the VW engine or not, 1200cc to me means it's pre 1966 as that was the debut of the 1300cc and last year of 6v.

It's not a holy grail, but there are restorers that might want it if you don't.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:20 AM   #212
melville
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That engine number means it started out as 1200cc. It could be just about any size now, but probably 1200 (1192) or 1385--lotsa these get rebuilt with 83mm pistons. Where the intake meets the head, is it flat or angled? Flat would be the OG 1200 head, angled would be the later 13/15/1600 head. If it's got the stock 28 PICT carb and 1200 heads, probably just 1200 or 1385.

VW made two different 1200 motors--yours started out as the later "40 horsepower" version, which shares much with the later 13/15/1600 motors. The other, earlier 1200 is the "36 horsepower," with nearly no interchangeability to your motor.
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:21 PM   #213
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So, if I'm going to title the vw rig, what VIN should I use; the name plate (from an R69S), the frame (from an R60, I think), or the engine (from a VW)?
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Old 03-04-2011, 07:41 PM   #214
fishkens
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Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
So, if I'm going to title the vw rig, what VIN should I use; the name plate (from an R69S), the frame (from an R60, I think), or the engine (from a VW)?
It didn't come with a title?

Hmmm, how about CDDWBB15339576?
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Old 03-04-2011, 08:04 PM   #215
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Originally Posted by fishkens View Post
It didn't come with a title?

Hmmm, how about CDDWBB15339576?
Neither of 'em did.

It's been a pain in the ass to try to get them titled.

But, now that you mentioned it, I have a funny story.

Ok, so, I used to own a lawncare business. A customer traded my grass cutting for a R75/6 (with title). Boom; that was my introduction to BMW's. Anyways, their neighbor, also someone with a lot of junk and little cash, traded a couple lawn cuts for a 14' Sears jon-boat (with title). Cool! The VIN was 77XXXX. I registered it. It's actually still good through this year, but I've only put it on water once (at my family farm, me waving my brother in front):





Anyways, a couple months later, I got a letter saying that my VIN wasn't in compliance. It had to be 12 digits long. I searched the boat high and low, and didn't find any other digits other than the 77XXXX. So, I just made up ... "SE" sounds good.. how about some random numbers.. so, SEXXXX77XXXX is my new VIN.



Should I have admitted this?

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Old 03-05-2011, 07:49 AM   #216
datchew
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Should I have admitted this?

Should or not is irrelevant because you just did.
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Old 03-06-2011, 06:41 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
Neither of 'em did.

It's been a pain in the ass to try to get them titled.

But, now that you mentioned it, I have a funny story.

Ok, so, I used to own a lawncare business. A customer traded my grass cutting for a R75/6 (with title). Boom; that was my introduction to BMW's. Anyways, their neighbor, also someone with a lot of junk and little cash, traded a couple lawn cuts for a 14' Sears jon-boat (with title). Cool! The VIN was 77XXXX. I registered it. It's actually still good through this year, but I've only put it on water once (at my family farm, me waving my brother in front):





Anyways, a couple months later, I got a letter saying that my VIN wasn't in compliance. It had to be 12 digits long. I searched the boat high and low, and didn't find any other digits other than the 77XXXX. So, I just made up ... "SE" sounds good.. how about some random numbers.. so, SEXXXX77XXXX is my new VIN.



Should I have admitted this?

The MO DMV / Porn Gestapo will be paying you a visit I am sure. Keep alert for black helicopters hovering near you at the fishing hole.
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:27 PM   #218
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the CIA has silver helos.. "Air America" remember??
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:47 PM   #219
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So, I've had a small box of parts sitting in my truck since I got these bikes in September.

Finally got around to going through it; whole bunch of spare bulbs, couple spare lenses for the lights on the Wixoms, and... a pair of Hella auxiliary lights. Nice!

I was monkeying around with the vw rig some more tonight. Scotchbrite and rust dust.

When I picked them up in Oklahoma, I kicked both over a couple times. Since they've been in my possession, something wasn't quite right with the vw rig. I couldn't get it to kick over. So, tonight I took the heads off both sides and moved the cylinders back and forth over the pistons. Ok, everythings ok there. (Well, a valve is stuck, but the pistons aren't.) Reassembled. Put the bike in gear and rolled back and forth. Engine was turning. Used the kicker, and it spins over just fine. Hmm. Cool!

When I search around, I don't see many VW/2 conversion build threads/websites. Well, I guarantee you, I'll have a detailed thread on it once I start to make some progress.
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Old 03-12-2011, 04:33 PM   #220
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Sandblasted and primed the tank mounts, tail light housing, and license plate bracket for the R60 today..
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:17 PM   #221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gertiektn View Post
the CIA has silver helos.. "Air America" remember??
a few years back, while canoeing on a small lake in the California Sierra's, I heard a roar and a silver military style transport popped over the ridge and did a ground hugging blast down the valley. not a single marking on it! no N numbers, tail or wing markings or anything! this about 50 air miles north of the marines mountian warfare training area.
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Old 03-12-2011, 09:22 PM   #222
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Considering I just lived in the high desert and spend the summer in/near the Sierra's...
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Old 03-24-2011, 10:11 PM   #223
bmwhacker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummerdude View Post
So, I've had a small box of parts sitting in my truck since I got these bikes in September.

Finally got around to going through it; whole bunch of spare bulbs, couple spare lenses for the lights on the Wixoms, and... a pair of Hella auxiliary lights. Nice!

I was monkeying around with the vw rig some more tonight. Scotchbrite and rust dust.

.

I'm picking up a 1954 Zundapp KS601 next week. In similar "patina'd" condition as your present projects....looking for advice on aluminum cleaning, rust removal, paint removal (I think the original fender paint is under a repaint). Any way to remove one layer of paint and not remove the original paint underneath?
With all the rusty stuff I've seen of yours you must have a system down by now.(?) I have never seen, much less used, Scotchbrite. Does it come in different grades? I see you've been using it with WD-40. How's it working? I've used steel wool on surface rust with pretty good results.
Due to the astronomical costs of Zundapp KS601 parts (if you can find them) I'm hoping to preserve everything possible. Total restoration of this bike would be more than I want to spend so I hope to clean it up and get it running mostly as is.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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bmwhacker screwed with this post 03-24-2011 at 10:47 PM
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:15 AM   #224
crazydrummerdude OP
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Originally Posted by bmwhacker View Post
I'm picking up a 1954 Zundapp KS601 next week. In similar "patina'd" condition as your present projects....looking for advice on aluminum cleaning, rust removal, paint removal (I think the original fender paint is under a repaint). Any way to remove one layer of paint and not remove the original paint underneath?
With all the rusty stuff I've seen of yours you must have a system down by now.(?) I have never seen, much less used, Scotchbrite. Does it come in different grades? I see you've been using it with WD-40. How's it working? I've used steel wool on surface rust with pretty good results.
Due to the astronomical costs of Zundapp KS601 parts (if you can find them) I'm hoping to preserve everything possible. Total restoration of this bike would be more than I want to spend so I hope to clean it up and get it running mostly as is.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Scotchbrite is like steel wool on steroids. It actually takes rust off. It also scratches the chrome/shiny sections a bit more, so you need to go back over the piece(s) with finer grades of Scotchbrite (they exist) then a couple passes with finer grades of steel wool. Also, I like Scotchbrite because it doesn't rust (like steel wool does). Also, it stays together better than steel wool; instead of tearing apart so much, it collapses and becomes flimsy when it's worn out.

I just got a dedicated polishing wheel set up, but I have yet to try it out for the final pass.

I've been able to remove paint one layer at a time, but not without scratching the hell out of the paint on the lower later. So, no advice there.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:34 PM   #225
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The most versatile crud/layer remover around is 1000 grit steel wool. On the package it says 0000. It'll allow you to gently go down layer by layer.
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