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Old 06-25-2014, 01:15 AM   #1
Brewsky88 OP
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Just what this forum needs...ANOTHER DR build! Lol.

Hey y'all,

I looked at myself last weekend and said “Self”...that's how I talk to myself... “Self, it's about time you build yourself a damn supermoto/dual sport combo.” “You know, that's a helluva good idea, let's go talk to John about that ol' DR he has sitting in the back of his garage, he said $1100 but I bet you could talk him down to $700” And so it began, brought her home on Saturday.



It's a '98 with 18k on the clock and she is in SAD shape, rust and oil EVERYWHERE, both forks are leaking, only about half of the bolts actually came on the poor girl and most of those are either stripped or rusted solid but she actually runs pretty good. I said screw it and completely stripped her down. One of the few times it's legal to post pictures of a 16 year old getting naked.





This weekend I will be pulling out the grinder and wire wheel to get all the old paint and cancer off the frame and more or less do a ground-up rebuild. Here is “The List”

Bedliner on the frame (possibly also the swingarm)
Clean up the engine and find the oil leak(s)
Full tune up
520 chain
Lowered pegs (I'm 6'3”)
ALL new bearings
Steel braid brake lines
Vapor speedo
Hand guards
Skid plate and case armor
Polish the stainless header
New muffler (thinking Two Brothers)

Now for the forks. I've done some research and understand that there are LOADS of different fork models that will fit ranging from a simple swap out to Frankensteining bearings. I plan to go the RMZ route, question is, what all will I need to do to a pair of RMZ250 forks to handle the weight of the DR and is the work worth the price compared to just using RMZ450 forks?

My package with my new dual sport tires (Michelin T63), replacement turn signals, license plate bracket and low profile tail light came in today. I know I'm not doing anything ground breaking here but it is always nice to share progress and learn tips from those who have already been there.
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:35 AM   #2
Max Kool
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I like this thread already!
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:40 AM   #3
Foot dragger
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Sounds like a good workout,that will be nice when your done.

Not 100% on the bedliner on the frame idea,cant help but think it will chip off from rocks etc. Maybe it'll work I dunno
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:47 AM   #4
East Coast Rider
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There are never enough DR/KLR/XRL build threads!!
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Old 06-25-2014, 05:36 PM   #5
xaman
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I'm in, looking forward to seeing your progress...
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Old 06-26-2014, 04:07 AM   #6
Brewsky88 OP
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So I made sure I was extra careful on the neck so that I wouldn't remove the etched on VIN. Does anyone know the legality of removing the other stickers (emissions info, GVWR/VIN, etc)?
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:02 AM   #7
kezzajohnson
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Another DR build.

Look forward to seeing the progress. Gotta get rid of that yellow swingarm.

Re the forks: Stock they are not the best but I have just rebuilt my stockers with Cogent DDCs and spacers plus 5w oil and it's a different bike. Could be a cheaper less tiresome solution to the RM/RMZ conversion but if you really want to go down that line checkout BergDonks DR650 thread here http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...light=BergDonk
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Old 06-26-2014, 05:17 AM   #8
TrophyHunter
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Credit to Kientech Engineering........

DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown above.

Look forward to the project.
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:24 AM   #9
Brewsky88 OP
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I think with some final touch ups tomorrow morning when I have better light she'll be ready for primer and bed liner. Holy shit this frame has some tight corners and awkward angles, the cone wheel on the grinder could only get so much, after some creative angles and approaches I am now a yoga master with a Dremel



Monday the swingarm, oil cooler bracket, front and rear pegs, battery box and kickstand are all going in with me to work for their 4pm appointment with the media blaster...OH how I wish the blaster box were big enough to fit the frame in
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Old 06-28-2014, 04:32 AM   #10
Nick154
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Looking forward to see how this goes. Goodluck
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:26 AM   #11
TrophyHunter
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Grab a box of foam earplugs and get all the bolt holes plugged up so you don't have to deal with overspray - especially that bed liner. Pretty sure you already had that solved, but figured I'd toss it out there.

Found this informative....

Quicky How To
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Old 06-30-2014, 12:24 AM   #12
Brewsky88 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrophyHunter View Post
Grab a box of foam earplugs and get all the bolt holes plugged up so you don't have to deal with overspray
Helluvan idea!!! I hadn't even thought of that, I have a big box of foamies in the garage still half full, 200 pairs for I think $40, I was originally going to just tape off the threads and heads of my current bolts since my new bolt set should be here any day. 250pc DR bolt kit "should" have just about everything I need. She needed a new bolt kit anyway, disassembly required allen wrenches (duh), metric sockets (duh), Phillips screwdriver (yea), slotted screwdriver (ok), torx bits (huh?) and SAE sockets (WTF!?!?!). Broke the nub off my 3/8" breaker bar getting the damn rear shock off the swingarm (knuckles paid dearly for that one), I ended up having to brace the swingarm in the crook of my hip and push on my 1/2" breaker with my foot to get her to pop loose.

Update Tuesday 9:25pm (Guam time)

Finished getting her cleaned up and primed today, between primer coats I went to town with some 240 grit on the swingarm since I keep forgetting to take everything in to media blast. Got about 98.5% of the yellow off (some down on the welds that I can't get with sandpaper). This girl has NEVER been given the attention I'm giving her, YEARS of neglect!!! Took me 45 minutes with a wire brush just to get all the built up oil and grease off. Who paints half a swingarm yellow? Seriously



The way the swingarm went, I feel it'll take a week to clean up the engine since I don't have access to a solvent tank



I feel like I'm doing a 1/4 scale version of my Mustang restoration. I haven't even torn into the engine (that is obviously leaking everywhere) or forks (similarly nasty) and I'm already amazed that I was actually able to ride her home. Poor girl.

Brewsky88 screwed with this post 07-01-2014 at 04:27 AM
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Old 07-01-2014, 05:57 AM   #13
TrophyHunter
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I found that Extend Rust Spray worked well for getting in the tight spots on a resto I did.

Can't wait to see the finished product. Keep at it.
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:05 AM   #14
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brewsky88 View Post
The way the swingarm went, I feel it'll take a week to clean up the engine since I don't have access to a solvent tank
no need, take it to the car wash/ degrease & powerspray it off
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Old 07-01-2014, 06:45 AM   #15
Bluebone
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Ok, I'll follow this and see where it goes. ..
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