Oil Quality vs. Clutch Performance

[HighwayMiles]

I have recently been having clutch problems on my '06 KLR650, and am beginning to suspect the recent oil change as the culprit.

I suppose the best way to describe the trouble is that the clutch is too sticky. It's overly grabby; putting it into gear in the morning is a procedure in and of itself, and when I pull the clutch in at a stop light (any time of day) I can rev the engine and the bike lurches forward slightly. I've been constantly adjusting the clutch at both the lever and the motor, but just can't seem to get it exactly right. The clutch is relatively new, and the cable has been replaced within 3K miles. The problem has only been happening within the last 1K, or since about the time I changed my oil.

Since my bike seems to burn all its damn oil anyway, I thought I'd save money and buy regular oil instead of full synthetic. It's still quality oil - Repsol, $6/ltr - but not the $17/ltr Repsol I usually use. Ironically the bike burns no oil now, but the clutch seems to be throwing a temper tantrum.

Am I correct in assuming that with the reduced friction lubrication of the regular oil is causing the clutch plates to grab? Will I ruin my clutch by running with the regular oil? Thoughts would be much appreciated.

[Flashmo]

I would tell you to change your oil and see if your hypothesis is correct.

Every bike I have had saw changes in how well it shifted based on different oil/and or how many miles were on the oil change.

[joexr]

What weight oil ? Did you go heavier ? Thicker oil causes more drag.

[Benesesso]

Too bad Kaw. doesn't still use the light "clutch plate separator springs" like they did way back in '72 on their 750 triple 2 stroke H2. No clutch drag at all.

[HighwayMiles]

Originally Posted by joexr

What weight oil ? Did you go heavier ? Thicker oil causes more drag.

The full synthetic is 10W50, and the regular oil I'm currently running is 10W40.

Do I need to change my oil ASAP? It's only been in there for 700 miles and I hate to waste the money, but if it's going to wear out my clutch then I'll change it back to the synthetic.

[lnewqban]

Check this out, just in case:

http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Preferr...not_be_used.3F

[LuciferMutt]

Originally Posted by Flashmo

Every bike I have had saw changes in how well it shifted based on different oil/and or how many miles were on the oil change.

ME TOO. It's weird too, because my VFR shifts like total crap even with Castrol 4T racing synthetic 10-40. I put Mobil 1 4T 10-40 back in it, and now it shifts very nicely again. Doesn't make sense, since both oils are HQ synthetics, but that's the way it is. Some bikes have a very definite preference for certain fluids.

[joexr]

Originally Posted by HighwayMiles

The full synthetic is 10W50, and the regular oil I'm currently running is 10W40.

Do I need to change my oil ASAP? It's only been in there for 700 miles and I hate to waste the money, but if it's going to wear out my clutch then I'll change it back to the synthetic.

Neither will harm the clutch. Drag from heavier oil doesn't come from friction. Think of it as the difference between swimming through water or swimming through honey.

[HighwayMiles]

Originally Posted by joexr

Neither will harm the clutch. Drag from heavier oil doesn't come from friction. Think of it as the difference between swimming through water or swimming through honey.

Oh ok thanks, I was not looking forward to wasting more money on oil. Strangely enough it doesn't burn the regular oil, so maybe if I go with the blend of regular/synthetic I'll get the best of both worlds.