Rookie wanna-be weldor starting to make some cool things!

[jar944]

Originally Posted by kirkster70

The above pic shows drilling the tube for a "fish mouth" to make a solid joint.




Using a carpentry tool used to duplicate angles.



Transferring the angle to the tube by eyeballing it.
.

It's nice to see other NOVA garages full of fab tools

a hole saw notcher works well for cutting the fish mouth. (I have the harbor freight one it works and is cheap ~$35) If you plan on doing a lot of 1 3/4 you may want to do a hydro conversion and add one of these http://www.tubebandit.com/xcart/prod...roductid=16133 as well as the bend tech software.

[kirkster70]

More pics...



Corner welds on bags finished and smoothed with a grinder, 3 coats of black rattlecan inside and out. Satin black was a bit too shiny for me, so I knocked it down a bit with a scotchbrite pad.

Hardware and weatherstripping installed on bags. The bottom mount is made from 3/4" x 1/8" angle (old supports from the shelving unit going to the dump) welded back to back to make a "Z".

I had orginally planned on using the turn signal stalk for the top mount to hold everything together. I decided that the hollow signal shaft wasn't strong enough, so I extended the signals back by themselves, and used a 3/8" through bolt where the turn signals used to be. I also started fabbing a rear rack to tie into the upper mount.



Some 3M reflective orange tape to finish things off.

The steel bags weigh 13lbs each. That's 5lbs heavier per side compared to aluminum bags 1 to 2 inches bigger per dimension. 33 is the magic number once again. 26lbs of steel bags + 7lbs. of DOM side rack. The KLR has 16lbs. of aluminum bags and 17lbs of 1" square tube rack. Pretty funny how that worked out.

Maybe my next set will have light racks and light bags. Third time's a charm. I learned something on both set of bags, and I learned something on both racks.



I use the last bit of 5/8" DOM I have on hand for the rack. I still need to weld in a provision for threads to attach a future aluminum top box. I'm going to try to make something universal to mount on the KLR and th DR.

The DR is getting close to completion, so I needed abother project to keep me busy...



...an '85 Elite 150 Deluxe with 316 original miles. The last inspection sticker is from '86. It's in a general state of neglect, but I hope to have it roadworthy by spring so the kids and I can have fun on it.

I've been working on it while paint dries on the DR project. The scoot is complete, and I've been tearing it apart a little at a time to get rid of hornets nests, mice nests, and stinkbugs!

My little girl loves to ride, and her face lit up when I brought the Elite home! This thing will be a ton of fun!

[fxstbiluigi]

That first piece, the one towards the front of the bike, appears to be crooked. Whats up with that?

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by road ranger

That first piece, the one towards the front of the bike, appears to be crooked. Whats up with that?

There is a slight bend on each side of about 10 degrees. It bends out toward the front.

I'll post up a overheard view once I shoot some paint on it.

[fxstbiluigi]

From the rear of the bike squat down and sight (align) the tops of the other cross pieces with your eyes, the right side looks a little higher than the left.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by road ranger

From the rear of the bike squat down and sight (align) the tops of the other cross pieces with your eyes, the right side looks a little higher than the left.

Yeah, that's entirely possible.

The rear subframe on the bike was tweaked when I bought it. It is a 20 y.o. bike, so that's understandable. I straightened it as best as I could.

I also stood the bike up on the lift as straight as I could, and then used a combination of straight edges, levels, and my eye. So I'm sure it's probably a touch off here or there, but it's correct to the eye when all put together.

So, the racks are all plumb and level both ways, but don't jive 100% with the tweaked fender. I made slight adjustments for everything to look as "right" as I could.

Sometimes on a compound curve a measurement may be 100% correct, but not look right to the eye. I've had that happen a bunch of times. Oh yeah, I'm also a 6 month or so welder! Ha Ha! Soon I won't be able to use the rookie excuse.

[kirkster70]

Top view of the rear rack. This took me all day. I started blending the top welds with a grinder, a half round file, and a rat tail file.

The 4 pieces welded in are for future top case mounting. I will tack a 3/8" nut to the underside. The pieces are made out of 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar scrap. It also took some time to shape them to fit just so. They are only welded from the back for a clean look.



It also took some time to blend the mounting tabs with a grinder. Also made from 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar scrap. (x braces from the battery racks)

The rack will get spraybombed in the am.

[fxstbiluigi]

Since you deal with conduit and such I figgered you would have a good eye for "straight with the world" rack looks good.
Before you paint that thing, and after cleaning so it can be painted, use a rose bud or weed burner, anything to get it a little hotter than you want to handle.then paint it, kinda bakes the paint on.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by road ranger

Since you deal with conduit and such I figgered you would have a good eye for "straight with the world" rack looks good.
Before you paint that thing, and after cleaning so it can be painted, use a rose bud or weed burner, anything to get it a little hotter than you want to handle.then paint it, kinda bakes the paint on.

Oh yeah. You can run a new conduit perfectly straight/plumb/level next to a bank of crooked conduits, and your conduit will look like crap just because it doesn't match - even though it's perfect. Been there plenty of times.

Fabbing to a used, trail ridden dual sport is similar, I suppose.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by french horn

As usual, great work ... but I must mention: the baseplate for the bender stand has beautifully square corners and edges = not good for bare feet. I have a tendency to round off the corners and bevel or round the edges, just in case I do a bit without my boots on (most of the time ). I also have other people in my shed from time to time. Just a thought ... keep up the great work mate.

Yeah, the pedestal was a "quickie" to get rolling with the bender. Plus, it will probably get redesigned when I get my hands on better materials. The bender has already been taken down and tucked into the corner for now.

But I agree, sharp corners are not good on the toes.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by Dorzok

i don't know anything so i'm just asking. is that upper mount going to support anything?

The top bolt is temporary for mock-up. It was the turn signal location, which have been moved backwards. Now it serves as the mount for the rear rack and side racks combined.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by scooteraug02

My friend is a good welder and when looking for material for a project I looked up fabrication shops in the area. The one I went to had dumpsters full of "junk" to them that was just what I needed. You guys should check some fabrication shops for cheap materials.

The owner was implying I could learn to weld for him if I wanted.

Lincoln Electric has some week long courses if you can spare the time.
http://lincolnelectric.com/knowledge...ol/courses.asp

Also there is this thread.
Ask your WELDING questions here.

How to (almost) kill yourself with brake cleaner

Homemade aluminium panniers

There is a pretty big welding shop a mile from my house. I've never given it any thought, but next time I'm looking for something, I'll remember to pay them a visit. Thanks for the idea!

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by jar944

It's nice to see other NOVA garages full of fab tools

a hole saw notcher works well for cutting the fish mouth. (I have the harbor freight one it works and is cheap ~$35) If you plan on doing a lot of 1 3/4 you may want to do a hydro conversion and add one of these http://www.tubebandit.com/xcart/prod...roductid=16133 as well as the bend tech software.

A notcher is on the short list of wants. That tubebandit is pretty slick. Thanks for the linky.

[kirkster70]

Originally Posted by road ranger

Since you deal with conduit and such I figgered you would have a good eye for "straight with the world" rack looks good.
Before you paint that thing, and after cleaning so it can be painted, use a rose bud or weed burner, anything to get it a little hotter than you want to handle.then paint it, kinda bakes the paint on.

A torch setup is also on the want list. I've missed out on two setups so far that sold locally. I do have a nice heatgun, though. That may be worth trying.

It's rattlecan paint for a reason. It's a dual sport, and it going to get scratched. Easy touch up!

[fxstbiluigi]

Originally Posted by scooteraug02

My friend is a good welder and when looking for material for a project I looked up fabrication shops in the area. The one I went to had dumpsters full of "junk" to them that was just what I needed. You guys should check some fabrication shops for cheap materials.

The owner was implying I could learn to weld for him if I wanted.

Lincoln Electric has some week long courses if you can spare the time.
http://lincolnelectric.com/knowledge...ol/courses.asp

Also there is this thread.
Ask your WELDING questions here.

How to (almost) kill yourself with brake cleaner

Homemade aluminium panniers

That part there about "Almost kill yourself with brake cleaner" Should read "How to KILL yourself with brake cleaner" Brake kleen turns to PHOSGENE Gass when heated. PHOSGENE is very deadly nerve agent. And it dont take much to take you out of the game for good.
Referigerent such as freon also turn to phosgene when they burn.