ADVrider

Go Back   ADVrider > Gear > The Garage
User Name
Password
Register Inmates Photos Site Rules Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-04-2013, 12:50 AM   #2476
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
i've been working on a couple projects the last few weeks. I really need to do some more reading or something because I'll lay down 10 frighteningly ugly beads and then one picture perfect bead. It's like when I go play golf, one hit out of 10 is decent. I guess I should just be happy that I can hit my bad welds with the grinder and make them look better...it's just frustrating though.

I have the same settings and same technique, but something must be different since the results are completely different. When it works, the puddle is clean and has the line of dimes look...when it's bad, the puddle doesnt really form and i end up with balls of metal on top of the material. I'll take some pics and see if anyone can identify my fubar-ness.
Jeff, are you using flux-core or solid wire with argon/CO2?

If you are using solid wire, a slight breeze interrupting your shielding gas could be giving you the problems you describe. Even a fan running in your shop is enough.

Another would be an insufficient ground. Move your clamp as close to the weld as possible w/o burning it up. Wiggle it around so the teeth can bite in.

If using used metal, rust and powder coating in low areas could also be messing you up like you describe.

Your spool of MIG wire whether solid or flux-core could also be the culprit if it hasn't been used in a while. Corrosion on the wire could be a possibility.

And last but not least, if you are using shielding gas, the bottle could be contaminated. I've never had this happen personally, but have read where it does occur from time to time, even though it's pretty rare. If you are getting a one in ten good weld bead, that rules this one out.

Good luck and I hope you get it figured out. Oh, let's see what you're working on!
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 12:54 AM   #2477
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
Ditto.

Practice, practice, practice. I wanted to learn to TIG *thin* aluminum. Read a ton, watched a bajillion youtube vids, and read a bunch more. One thing I found in my studies that helped me a lot with the movement (dip/jump) was to get everything set up, and run a bead- with the welder OFF. No juice, no helmet, just your torch and filler rod. dip jump, dip jump, dip jump, dip jump, until I felt comfortable. Turn it on, run a bead, shoot. Looks like crap. Run a few more dry practice runs, turn it back on, try it again.

I still suck, but I think I'm a lot better than I should be AND I wasn't wasting valuable supplies. Heck, you could use a pencil as your torch and practice at your desk.

One other tip- I find that when I don't stress about anything EXCEPT the puddle- my welds are a lot better. Once you know what you want the puddle to look like and what you need to do (speed up, slow down, more or less heat, electrode angle, arc gap) things start looking a lot better.

my .02. Take it for what its worth.
Very good advice!


My biggest "aha" moment with TIG was when I discovered that I could hold the puddle in one spot without falling through for as long as I wanted by modulating the pedal. It gave my filler hand time to get it's act together by letting off the pedal. No need to completely stop the weld as I had done before figuring that one out.
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2013, 05:40 AM   #2478
dorkpunch
Oops...
 
dorkpunch's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Oddometer: 4,941


You know I *STILL* don't have a TIG welder with a foot pedal, right?




I keep hoping one will turn up near me in my price range. Knowing what my price range is, that ain't going to happen anytime soon!
__________________
http://www.mobilemrt.com http://www.dorkpunch.com

"I've been going to this high school for SEVEN YEARS. I'm no dummy!"
-Charles De Mar.
dorkpunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 08:07 AM   #2479
phreakingeek
Gnarly Adventurer
 
phreakingeek's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: VA
Oddometer: 252
I'm using a brand new roll of solid core wire with argon.

I was working in the garage with the door open, but no fans.

I was using some of your recycled flat bar and welding it to the rack that I bought off ebay. I used a wire brush to remove the paint/powder coat, but I'm sure it wasnt perfectly spotless.

I moved the ground around a couple times to see if it made any difference and i couldnt tell if it did or not.

I followed a previous tip that said to squeeze half trigger before and after the weld to ensure the gas is flowing and keeping the weld free of oxygen.

I'll try do to a better job of prepping to see if it helps...plus close the garage door for a short test weld. Hopefully i can pinpoint the problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Jeff, are you using flux-core or solid wire with argon/CO2?

If you are using solid wire, a slight breeze interrupting your shielding gas could be giving you the problems you describe. Even a fan running in your shop is enough.

Another would be an insufficient ground. Move your clamp as close to the weld as possible w/o burning it up. Wiggle it around so the teeth can bite in.

If using used metal, rust and powder coating in low areas could also be messing you up like you describe.

Your spool of MIG wire whether solid or flux-core could also be the culprit if it hasn't been used in a while. Corrosion on the wire could be a possibility.

And last but not least, if you are using shielding gas, the bottle could be contaminated. I've never had this happen personally, but have read where it does occur from time to time, even though it's pretty rare. If you are getting a one in ten good weld bead, that rules this one out.

Good luck and I hope you get it figured out. Oh, let's see what you're working on!
phreakingeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 11:19 AM   #2480
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Are you using straight argon or argon/co2 mix?


Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I'm using a brand new roll of solid core wire with argon.

I was working in the garage with the door open, but no fans.

I was using some of your recycled flat bar and welding it to the rack that I bought off ebay. I used a wire brush to remove the paint/powder coat, but I'm sure it wasnt perfectly spotless.

I moved the ground around a couple times to see if it made any difference and i couldnt tell if it did or not.

I followed a previous tip that said to squeeze half trigger before and after the weld to ensure the gas is flowing and keeping the weld free of oxygen.

I'll try do to a better job of prepping to see if it helps...plus close the garage door for a short test weld. Hopefully i can pinpoint the problem.
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 12:11 PM   #2481
phreakingeek
Gnarly Adventurer
 
phreakingeek's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: VA
Oddometer: 252
i think...sometimes

I think it's straight argon, but i dont remember exactly what I asked for when i bought it. It glows blue/green when I'm welding.

I also recently read that I need to may need to use some anti-spatter compound or something to keep the tip cooler and cleaner.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Are you using straight argon or argon/co2 mix?

phreakingeek screwed with this post 09-05-2013 at 12:16 PM
phreakingeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-05-2013, 05:31 PM   #2482
kirkster70 OP
moto junkie
 
kirkster70's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia
Oddometer: 1,905
Look at the label on the bottle. With straight argon on MIG you will have problems just as you describe...


Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I think it's straight argon, but i dont remember exactly what I asked for when i bought it. It glows blue/green when I'm welding.

I also recently read that I need to may need to use some anti-spatter compound or something to keep the tip cooler and cleaner.
kirkster70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-06-2013, 04:59 PM   #2483
oldNbold
Adventurer
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: stranded in Iowa
Oddometer: 93
Straight argon is not the right choice for mig. Definitely get a tank of c25 (75/25 mix).
__________________
1977 Harley Davidson FLHS
2013 DL650 Adventure
oldNbold is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 08:24 AM   #2484
9Dave
Bazinga!
 
9Dave's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Location: Central Ohio
Oddometer: 12,616
Quote:
Originally Posted by phreakingeek View Post
I think it's straight argon, but i dont remember exactly what I asked for when i bought it. It glows blue/green when I'm welding.

I also recently read that I need to may need to use some anti-spatter compound or something to keep the tip cooler and cleaner.
Definitely get the proper gas mix for the wire you are using. See the manufacturer's specs and use them as a starting point.

And while you don't want anything blowing your gas shielding away from your arc, keep some fresh air in there.

As for anti-splatter stuff, I bought some, and never used it. If you are maintaining the correct contact tip work distance, you shouldn't have issues. That, and a pair of good Mig pliers (get some Welpers) and you can keep the tip and shield clean.
__________________


dunno.....
9Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-07-2013, 10:30 AM   #2485
DirtyDog
Lust for dust.
 
DirtyDog's Avatar
 
Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Tulsa... it's OK
Oddometer: 7,261
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9Dave View Post
Definitely get the proper gas mix for the wire you are using. See the manufacturer's specs and use them as a starting point.

And while you don't want anything blowing your gas shielding away from your arc, keep some fresh air in there.

As for anti-splatter stuff, I bought some, and never used it. If you are maintaining the correct contact tip work distance, you shouldn't have issues. That, and a pair of good Mig pliers (get some Welpers) and you can keep the tip and shield clean.
But... the nozzle gel is invaluable when using a cheap mig with flux-core wire.
__________________
And when you asked for light, I set myself on fire
And if I go far away I know- you'll find another slave
DirtyDog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 01:33 AM   #2486
Twin-shocker
Beastly Adventurer
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Oddometer: 1,673
Anti spatter spray is well worth using no matter what MIG set or process you might be using. Makes removal of the inevitable spatter far far easier, and no real downside to using it, as its pretty cheap and can be applied in seconds.
Twin-shocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 05:33 AM   #2487
MotoChris521
Gnarly Adventurer
 
MotoChris521's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Location: SoCal
Oddometer: 481
So.. I've been looking at wire feed welders. Are they worth a dam or should I keep saving for a mig welder.
__________________
dreaming of moist soil
MotoChris521 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 07:35 AM   #2488
dorkpunch
Oops...
 
dorkpunch's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Oddometer: 4,941
MIG meaning Metal Inert Gas? Wire feed and MIG are basically the same thing- a welder that feeds the filler rod through the handle in the form of wire. If you mean having a gas shielded wire feed instead of a flux core wire feed, it depends on what you are going to do with it. The gas shielding makes for a MUCH cleaner weld, although in the smaller welders (110v) you can weld thicker metals with flux core wire. 6 of one, half dozen of the other. If you get a machine capable of gas, you can still run flux core wire without the gas.
__________________
http://www.mobilemrt.com http://www.dorkpunch.com

"I've been going to this high school for SEVEN YEARS. I'm no dummy!"
-Charles De Mar.
dorkpunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 10:12 AM   #2489
johns
Studly Adventurer
 
johns's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Frozenlands, Netherlands
Oddometer: 624
Quote:
Originally Posted by dorkpunch View Post
If you get a machine capable of gas, you can still run flux core wire without the gas.
Only if you can change the polarity of the machine.
johns is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2013, 12:28 PM   #2490
dorkpunch
Oops...
 
dorkpunch's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Location: Blackfoot, ID
Oddometer: 4,941
Huh. Never heard of that, and just spent a fair bit of time reading about it. Sounds like another version of "what oil should I use in my bike" topic...

Cant say for sure but I think most wire feeds have wires inside on the back of the torch cable/hose that can be detached and switched if needed...

Might have to do some experimenting and see what happens!
__________________
http://www.mobilemrt.com http://www.dorkpunch.com

"I've been going to this high school for SEVEN YEARS. I'm no dummy!"
-Charles De Mar.
dorkpunch is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Share

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

.
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


Times are GMT -7.   It's 03:21 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ADVrider 2011-2014