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Old 12-13-2011, 10:01 PM   #376
kirkster70 OP
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Originally Posted by Timmer View Post
Well, I can blame it on Kirkster70!!

Since I have quite a collection of 2"x2"x1/8" angle Iron that my son salvaged for me from a completed construction project, I use it from time to time but finally a project came along that really was suited for it. If anyone is interested in the plans, I could post a link.



Essentially it's a 17" vise used for forming sheet metal panels. The three eye bolts are actually the clamp bolts for the top piece of angle iron. I welded some nuts on the framework and the eye bolts screw through them. It was a fun little project and when it gets warmer, I use some rattlecan paint on it. I also built a 24" sheet metal brake some years ago from some heavier angle & channel iron that I'll post pictures of sometime.

Nice, Tim!!! I like it! We should form a scrap welder's Union!
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Old 12-13-2011, 10:21 PM   #377
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I worked all day knocking out honey-do items, and finally get to where I can start on the Pope Mobile...



I start by studying the tractor for a good deal of time. I pick out my mounting points and can't really decide on where to start. I throw caution to the wind and just start winging it and hope for the best.

I need enough hand room to work the PTO lever and snowblower chute rod, so I can't stay tight to the floorboards like I thought I would be able to. I use a straight edge on the tires and measure in 2" from there.

I cut a piece of 1 1/2" x 3/16" flatbar for a tab, then tack a piece of 1" x 1/8" square tube to that. I attach to a factory ROPS hole. I use an old piece of carpet, rubber side up, to protect from weld spatter.



I take another piece of flat bar, bend a 90 on it, and bolt it to the floorboard. Using the straight edge again, I measure and then cut and tack another piece of square tube in place.



Using a factory mounting point for the mower deck lift arms, I measure and slide a piece of rigid conduit through. I'm going to make a left and right frame that bolts together, so I will use a pin to connect to the conduit. I cut a larger piece of rigid that will slide over this piece. The larger pieces will be welded to left and right sides to be pinned.



Using angle by 1/8" thick, I start tacking a piece at a time. I have to keep unbolting it to get a full grind on both sides and to make the cuts. It's coming together pretty well. I was going to make a tube frame, but just decided to go with what I have on hand. So far so good. I haven't spent a penny on metal yet. Big surprise, huh? More to follow tomorrow with any luck. Until then...
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Old 12-14-2011, 01:41 PM   #378
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Old 12-14-2011, 04:34 PM   #379
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Here are the pieces of rigid conduit I fabbed up...



... to go here.



I keep walking around in circles talking to myself, and keep glueing metal together wherever it makes sense to me.



1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar welded to the rigid, 1" x 1/8" square tube welded to the flat bar, 1/8" thick angle welded to the square tube. Not super heavy-duty, but should work to keep me dry while snowblowing.



I start on the rear uprights. I use a mixture of measuring and eyeballing. I attempt to make all the roof supports the same angle as the ROPS bar. I also decide to make the cab free standing. Making brackets to attach to the ROPS would have made it more of a challenge to install the sheet metal on the rear.



With every project I tackle, I never really know if I can pull off what I'm trying to do. But then sometimes I will get to a point where what I'm seeing gets me excited because I know it will work. This photo is that moment. The excitement of seeing it actually happen propels me to the finish line.



I run out of the wide angle x 1/8", and start using the 1" x 1" angle to connect the top. It should be just fine as it is also 1/8" thick. I got a lot figured out today, but still have a good ways to go. This is a good stopping point for now. Time for a brewski.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:21 AM   #380
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ill post some pictures of my one once i actually get going on it. all the dang grinding sucks!
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:10 PM   #381
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B.t.w. I found a good pictorial on MIG welding and how to find the appropriate settings, (link here)
[edit]Oh and here is my post in the welding questions thread[/edit]

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Old 12-18-2011, 10:04 PM   #382
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ill post some pictures of my one once i actually get going on it. all the dang grinding sucks!
Grinding is definately a drag! Looking forward to seeing your finished project!

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Old 12-18-2011, 10:09 PM   #383
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Originally Posted by mike-s View Post
B.t.w. I found a good pictorial on MIG welding and how to find the appropriate settings, (link here)
[edit]Oh and here is my post in the welding questions thread[/edit]
Very good info. in the link you posted. Thanks for that! In the pushing/pulling that he describes, everything I have read says that you will get more deposition pulling than pushing, and that pulling is normally favored on thicker materials whereas pushing is favored on thinner materials. Of course, sometimes you don't have a choice and just have to go in the direction you have to go in. I've never read where it makes any difference on the gas flow.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:27 PM   #384
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All kinds of materials inbound for the Pope Mobile: 1/4" U.V. treated clear polycarbonate, locking gasket for the windows, used wiper motor and arm assembly, and DZUS fasteners. I stopped by Tractor Supply on the way to work and bought all the 3/4" x 1/8" angle they had on hand (which wasn't much) to fab the doors. I still need hinges, latches, and a switch for the wiper.

I guess I've gotten off long enough without buying any materials. I should be able to start making progress once again this week. I've spent quite a bit more than I wanted to, but it's a far cry from a new cab which no one makes for this model anyway. Used, beat-up, 20 year old Curtis cabs in need of work are going for around $1500 if you can find one, and new Curtis Cabs for JD Gators, and similar sized Kubotas go for around $3500 and up depending on options. I'm waaaayyyyyyy below those numbers, but a couple hundred above a new universal fit soft cab.

And when I'm all done, it probably wont snow a single flake.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:38 PM   #385
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Where do you estimate the finished weight of the cab being?
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Old 12-19-2011, 01:16 PM   #386
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Where do you estimate the finished weight of the cab being?
Good question. I just removed the frame, and it's lighter than I thought it would be. I'm not sure how much 1/4" polycarbonate weighs, but it's much less than glass. The sides and top will be 18 ga.

Ballpark estimate - 200lbs +/-.

I will weigh everything as it goes together and keep a running tally.

I should have some new piccys to show tonight...
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:06 PM   #387
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More pics!



Cab cut in half down the middle. Not exactly the conventional way to do something, but the cab is small enough to where the two frame halves are very manageable for one person. I was going to make the top and sides 3 pieces, but that would have required more tabs. This works just fine.



Tabs made from the 1" x 1/8" shelving X-braces. Corners will be dressed up upon final grinding.



Tabs tacked and bolted in place. I clamp a scrap piece of angle to the steel to make sure everything is as straight as I can make it. After all 5 cuts are tabbed and bolted, it's rigid enough again to final weld all other tack welds.





My nephew comes over to work on his own project for Christmas. Wait until you see it! I think he's going to post his own pics tonight or tomorrow. We take turns with the torch, grinder, and brush.



This has to be one of the prettiest continuous welds I have ever done. I had to show it off. Starting from the far right, I pulled, then pushed, then went from the bottom to the top. Holy crap welding is fun!

^ EDIT - 12-12-12: This really isn't a good weld at all. At the time, I thought it was, but have learned different since. It's a series of tacks atop one another. A solid, continuous bead would have been stronger and the proper way to execute the weld...



I keep flipping the frame around to get to all sides of the welds. Tomorrow I will double check all welds, round corners, grind exterior welds flush, and gussett the front lower mounts. I'm hoping to have it back on the tractor and then figure for the doors. I wanted to final weld the frame before fabbing the doors just in case I had some warpage. I didn't want to have to make the doors twice. So far, so good. With any luck, more tomorrow...

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Old 12-20-2011, 08:48 PM   #388
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I spend the majority of the day smoothing exterior welds with a 40 grit flap disc. I gusset the front supports with 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar cut in 45 degree angles. I round all mounting tabs.



I reinstall the cab frame on the tractor. I have the left installed when I remember to weigh the right side. 24.5 lbs. Assuming they are the same, the frame weighs in @ 49 lbs. Not bad.

I start on the doors by plug welding hinges with removeable pins on the B pillars.



Using 3/4" x 1/8" angle, I start framing up the right door. I plug weld the upright piece to the hinges first and then move onto the upper horizontal piece. I tack a piece of scrap onto this piece to help with alignment.

My polycarbonate showed up today and it weighs 40 lbs. With the frame, we're already @ 90 lbs. Door frames @ maybe 15 lbs each and it's @ 120 lbs before sheetmetal, latches, hardware, and weather stripping. Maybe closer to 250 lbs complete is more realistic. That pretty much eliminates the need for a ballast box on the rear.

More to come tomorrow...
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:09 AM   #389
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It's a bit ugly, but that's mostly because I've welded, ground down to a mostly smooth finish to check my work and make sure there weren't any massive mistakes, and then ran another bead over the top to make sure.

I also put a piece of steel plate on the bottom of the sidestand as that was as old as the bike and had worn down considerably with 25+ years of (ab)use. The welding at the bottom of that is to plug the hole in the middle, the slight "bubble" of metal is going to be mostly ground flat though.

In the prep photo you can see the foot of the sidestand had curved up quite a lot with use, I tacked the foot down at both sides at the base and then used the pointy end on a welding hammer to beat the end of it down flat. I then put an ugly coat of bead on top of that I'm nowhere near proud of (that was due to me rushing to finish off for the day ), something I intend to fix tomorrow morning.


This is what I'm aiming for.


Nearly got it right on the first go, minor touching up to happen tomorrow.

All up it's not too bad for a first attempt at "making" something and the third time using my mig.
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Old 12-21-2011, 04:18 AM   #390
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Good job, Mike! Looks like you're on your way! Is that a piece of rigid conduit? If it is, it should be plenty strong.
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