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Old 10-11-2010, 08:57 AM   #76
kirkster70 OP
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Almost finished...

I was thinking to myself "The signals are 1/4" in the way. Really? C'mon, man, 1/4"? really?"

So...when I got in from work, instead of going to bed like I should have, I just had to start messing with the bike. One thing led to another, and now the bags are mounted.



I wound up trimming the upper part of the lower support bracket. It was just too much. You can see by the scrap on the left what size it USED to be. As you can see, it took a bit of trimming and shaping to get what I wanted out of it. I attached the bracket with 3/8" grade 8 hardware.



I also made the lids even with the top rack.



And that's also why I didn't bother to put a 45 degree angle on the lower outside edge - I knew I wanted them up high. Plus, I wanted a flat bottom for more storage room.

I also made my bags back a bit farther than some - to allow plenty of room for the passenger pegs. When mocking up, I taped an adult riding boot to the rear peg and started an inch away from the boot.





I still need to rough them up a bit more for the uniform grunge look I'm going for. I'll probably fly them tonight just to see how I like them. The rack, bags, hardware and all tip the scales at 33 lbs. I think that's very reasonable. I figure I can throw a good 100 lbs of items in there safely since I only weigh 180.



The only thing left to do is to clean up some weld spatter on the inside, coat the insides w/bedliner, and I'll probably still extend the rear signals out so people can see them better. I also have some reflective tape somewhere, and everyone knows that huge bags aren't dorky looking enough by themselves.

Ok, I'm 2 hours late for bedtime!!!!!

...but at least now I can sleep!
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:36 AM   #77
Timmer
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Did you consider using carriage bolts to fasten the lower mount to the pannier so that you wouldn't have the sharp edges of the bolts rubbing on the contents? I don't know if they are available in Grade 8 however.
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Old 10-11-2010, 12:09 PM   #78
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Well done... you inspired me to watch countless hrs of welding vids on youtube and I'm aggressively trying to hunt down a welder. Primarily looking for a Lincoln mig pak 140.

Thanks again
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:00 PM   #79
kirkster70 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timmer
Did you consider using carriage bolts to fasten the lower mount to the pannier so that you wouldn't have the sharp edges of the bolts rubbing on the contents? I don't know if they are available in Grade 8 however.
Not carriage bolts, but panhead allen head bolts crossed my mind. I wouldn't be able to get a wrench on both sides with a carriage bolt. I just used what I had on hand. I also wanted to use fender washers instead of flat washers.

I'm still in the fine tuning stage of everything, and will probably have different ideas when I actually put them to use. This is still very much a trial and error project at this point, but I sure have learned a lot. I'm sure I will make some tweaks still.

I'm already considering a top box....hmm..........
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:00 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lousot
looking good
Thanks!
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Old 10-11-2010, 01:04 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maggot12
Well done... you inspired me to watch countless hrs of welding vids on youtube and I'm aggressively trying to hunt down a welder. Primarily looking for a Lincoln mig pak 140.

Thanks again
What are you waiting for?

I've heard that 140s are plenty of welder for most home projects. I have two friends with Millermatic 140s and they won't give 'em up for anything!

The guy I bought the TIG from also had a MM210, and he had the same feelings. I asked if I could buy that while I was there and he said NO WAY! Ha Ha!

Post up when you get going. Let the addiction begin!
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Old 10-11-2010, 02:16 PM   #82
Timmer
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Yes, panheads would work as well. Carriage bolts were just the first that came to mind. The main reason I suggested it is that I've seen the effects of objects rubbing on each other while bouncing around in panniers. Again, great fabrication and inspiration.



Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70
Not carriage bolts, but panhead allen head bolts crossed my mind. I wouldn't be able to get a wrench on both sides with a carriage bolt. I just used what I had on hand. I also wanted to use fender washers instead of flat washers.

I'm still in the fine tuning stage of everything, and will probably have different ideas when I actually put them to use. This is still very much a trial and error project at this point, but I sure have learned a lot. I'm sure I will make some tweaks still.

I'm already considering a top box....hmm..........
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Old 10-12-2010, 08:32 AM   #83
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Awesome job, very jealous. You finally got me off my rear end to get my old Lincoln SP 150 up and running. Just got the cyl filled yesterday. Now I need something to weld...

I would rethink the herculiner on the inside. Its a pain to clean, the alum you have now you can spray down with cleaner and wipe perfectly clean. The Hurculiner traps dirt and crap and is a pain. I also personally don't like it for the outside but your call. Reasons are the same for the inside. If you do do it, make sure you do fanatical prep work. I had a custom steel bumper made for my truck and used that stuff. It lasted 6 months and started peeling. It got REAL old redoing it all the time. If you have the coin, powdercoating would def be my first choice and look awesome. Maybe you could trade your skills with the coater...
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Old 10-12-2010, 10:48 AM   #84
Captain Beardylocks
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your work looks great! I just finished a welding course and I'm trying to put togeather the equipment/workspace to do these kind of projects over the winter. This thread is definitely helpful. Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2010, 01:51 PM   #85
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The bags look great!

I'm really looking forward to what you're going to do with a top case!
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:18 PM   #86
kirkster70 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sailah
Awesome job, very jealous. You finally got me off my rear end to get my old Lincoln SP 150 up and running. Just got the cyl filled yesterday. Now I need something to weld...

I would rethink the herculiner on the inside. Its a pain to clean, the alum you have now you can spray down with cleaner and wipe perfectly clean. The Hurculiner traps dirt and crap and is a pain. I also personally don't like it for the outside but your call. Reasons are the same for the inside. If you do do it, make sure you do fanatical prep work. I had a custom steel bumper made for my truck and used that stuff. It lasted 6 months and started peeling. It got REAL old redoing it all the time. If you have the coin, powdercoating would def be my first choice and look awesome. Maybe you could trade your skills with the coater...
Thanks!

I'm not planning on bedlining the exterior at all - only the interior. As long as the bag seals properly, I'm not sure how it will get dirty inside unless I put dirty boots or the like in the bag.

I used to do custom paint, so I know about proper prep. My rule of thumb has always been "if it's shiny, it's not sticking". I will degrease the inside first, then sand with 80 grit until there is absolutely no shine to be seen for the liner to have a "tooth" for a good, mechanical bond. Then I will degrease once again. A lot of times people will actually grind impurities into the base by sanding before degreasing. And even degreasing has to be done a certian way - i.e. - if you just smear degreaser around, all it's doing is moving the impurity to another place to dry. I always use a rag with degreaser, followed by a clean rag to mop up. Once the clean rag is saturated, get another one.

So yeah, I think the bedliner will be fine for what I want it to do. As a plus, I think it will keep loose items from sliding around so much. I'm trying to stay away from powdercoat simply because I'm tying to keep it 100% D.I.Y. plus I do like the look of the unfinished aluminum.
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:18 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Beardylocks
your work looks great! I just finished a welding course and I'm trying to put togeather the equipment/workspace to do these kind of projects over the winter. This thread is definitely helpful. Thanks!
Thank you very much!
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Old 10-12-2010, 06:28 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quacked
The bags look great!

I'm really looking forward to what you're going to do with a top case!
Thanks!

I think I will come up with something. I have a Cortech top bag that I use as my lunchbox for work. I was thinking it would fit nicely in one bag, but that's not the case. I have to scrunch everthing up for it to fit, so that seems like a royal PITA to me. Plus, who wants to eat food that has been scrunched?

I need to order some more aluminum, but I will probably end up making a top case with dimensions specific to my bag.

I will probably do my redneck lift first, plus I also want to make some front crash bars with hoops for LED driving lights, so the top case will take a back seat to both of those projects.

It's deer hittin' time, and I want to protect my legs if I go down again. I totaled a very nice ST1100 this time last year. I credit the ST for protecting my legs with the bags on the back, and tip over wings (hidden engine gaurds) in the front. It made a pocket that kept the bike from grinding my legs into the pavement like a cheese grater.

If I had REAL front crash bars (not plastic protectors for a tip-over on a trail) I would feel much safer riding this time of year. So that will happen before the top case.
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Old 10-12-2010, 09:45 PM   #89
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OK I am impressed
and my welding gear has never looked that shiny
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:45 PM   #90
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I didn't think that you could powdercoat aluminum as it is not magnetic. We have always anodized aluminum if you wanted to coat it with something. Maybe there is a new way of doing, I would like to know about it.
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