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Old 10-13-2010, 11:57 AM   #91
groundrules
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilld
I didn't think that you could powdercoat aluminum as it is not magnetic. We have always anodized aluminum if you wanted to coat it with something. Maybe there is a new way of doing, I would like to know about it.
My understanding is that it doesn't have to be susceptible to magnetism, just has to carry an electric charge.
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Old 10-13-2010, 02:53 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hilld
I didn't think that you could powdercoat aluminum as it is not magnetic. We have always anodized aluminum if you wanted to coat it with something. Maybe there is a new way of doing, I would like to know about it.
We have been selling Ambulances that have the entire aluminum body powdercoated YUP the factory has one big assed oven
They only started doing full bodies four years ago but before that they have been doing doors and parts for decades.......not cheap but worth it in the long run.
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Old 10-13-2010, 03:40 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by groundrules
My understanding is that it doesn't have to be susceptible to magnetism, just has to carry an electric charge.
Mostly correct..........nothing to do with magnets............the item being coated needs a slight charge and is cured with heat................they can powder coat just about anything that can be charged and withstand some heating....... examples: nowdays wood and wood products are often powder coated.
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:07 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showkey
Mostly correct..........nothing to do with magnets............the item being coated needs a slight charge and is cured with heat................they can powder coat just about anything that can be charged and withstand some heating....... examples: nowdays wood and wood products are often powder coated.
Always good to get more educated. Thanks for that info.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:18 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by the kaz
OK I am impressed
and my welding gear has never looked that shiny
Thanks!

It's funny to look at the first photo of my table, and look at it after 3 mos. It's getting pretty smoked up!

So is everything else. I have holes and burn marks in everything!
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:33 AM   #96
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More piccys...



I use 900 to prep, then I scuff with 80 grit dry sandpaper, then clean up with 901.

Dishsoap is actually one of the best degreasers you can use, but 900 and 901 evaporate very fast so you don't have to wait for it to dry.



I mix the bedliner well, then start dabbing the seams with a 2" disposable brush. Make sure to mask off the mounting holes on the exterior.





Then I use a 3" trim roller to apply the first coat.



The instructions say to wait 1-2 hours for the second coat. While I'm waiting, I fab up and paint some rear turn signal relocation brackets out of 3/16" x 1 1/2" flatbar.



Second coat applied and waiting to dry. Once all dry I will clean up the excess on the lip underneath.



Brackets are dry, so I mount the signals. I moved them straight back 2 1/4". Luckily, I had rewired my whole bike (due to poor wireharness routing from the factory) and mounted the signal connectors under the seat for protection. When I did that, I had to extend everything, so there was plenty of slack without having to re-do the wiring.

Tomorrow will be another trip to the hardware store for some 3/8" panhead bolts to remount the lower support.
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:34 PM   #97
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Awesome job. Looks like you have the tool side of things covered.
Take a look at these, I have one and really like it. Yes it really does what they advertise.
It might be a way for some of you to get into welding with less expense.
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:21 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwantabikesobad
Awesome job. Looks like you have the tool side of things covered.
Take a look at these, I have one and really like it. Yes it really does what they advertise.
It might be a way for some of you to get into welding with less expense.
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
Niiiice torch! Definately on the want list as well.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:47 AM   #99
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The bags are finished, so I start back on the low buck lift.



End supports from the lift and base are cut out of the way and preliminary framing for the base begins.



I finally run out of my very first 10 lb. spool of filler wire and remember to install an ear plug to keep dust and grit off the wire as it enters the liner. Thanks for the helpful tip BIGJim!!



My garage helper supplies 48 lbs. of test load.



I add another outside piece of channel to the lift platform.



Another lift with approximately 175 lbs. The results are promising! No flex.



A full tank of gas puts this load at 500 lbs or so. Now we have some sag at the rear, but everything seems quite stable. I will have to beef up the platform a bit more, but at least I know it will work. I have some flatbar that I got for free when getting all the scrap from the battery racks, so I will box the strut for more rigidity. I will also add another channel to the outside of the base and box it.

I will figure out a way to make the rear lock into different slots as it raises. That will add a good degree of safety.

So...lift : free, materials : free, gas and filler wire : maybe 10 bucks, and about 6 hours of welding practice. Once I'm happy with the framing, I will probably cover the deck with some thin diamond plate.

The bags are finished, and I'm quite happy with them. I road tested them for about 400 miles before using the bedliner on them. I didn't notice any difference in handling, which was a total surprise to me. I'm sure with a heavy load I will notice a difference.

I added some reflectors to the bags from a H-D Electraglide that I've been hanging onto for 5 years or so. They were from a customer's bike I painted, and he didn't want them. Yes, the packrat in me appears once again!

More to come next week.

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Old 10-16-2010, 12:17 PM   #100
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Wow is about all I can say.
You did all this in a few month as a working family man, what are you going to get up to when you retire?
Very inspiring, keep it up.
Time for me to dust off my welder.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:08 PM   #101
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This thread should be titled Magic With UniStrut.

Nice work.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:22 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capeklr
Wow is about all I can say.
You did all this in a few month as a working family man, what are you going to get up to when you retire?
Very inspiring, keep it up.
Time for me to dust off my welder.
Thanks!

Well, I have 13 years until retirement if all goes as planned, so I should be making jet planes by then. Ha Ha!

In reality, I will have 3 in college, so retirement will probably not happen as planned since I will have to pay for the house 3 times in a row!

Maybe I can at least buy their textbooks with some of my projects in the future.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:26 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 257bob
This thread should be titled Magic With UniStrut.

Nice work.
You made me laugh out loud!!! Ha Ha! Literally!

- at least it's the solid strut with no holes in it!!!!!!!

oh, by the way, I scored over 70) 16 feet long pieces of the strut, and with everything made, I think I have used up maybe 8 sticks!!!!!! I have it all tucked up under my building out of sight and out of the weather.

I'm trying to figure out how to make some cool outdoor furniture that is actually contoured and doesn't look like doo-doo.
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:37 PM   #104
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More pics until about 4 days from now...

I just started experimenting with some floor jacks. I figure if I can come up with a contraption in the rear that locks in different positions as it goes up, I can go higher than I need, then drop down to level to overcome the sag.

I added support to the platform and the base, so I'm done there. There is no hesitation in the lifting process at all. It lifts the KLR as easily as it lifted my boy. It is rock solid on the jacks, so the locking contraption will solve the sag issue.

This lift is rated at 750 lbs 3 feet away from the base, so 7 feet away lifting 500 lbs is probably all I would be willing to put on it. Just like an engine hoist, or a crane for that matter, the load capacity is reduced the farther out you go.

Next on the to-do list : the above mentioned locking contraption, a home brewed wheel clamp on the front, and the platform with drop-down ramp.

- just in time for my KLR's 20,000 mile oil change! Perfect!!!!



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Old 10-16-2010, 10:20 PM   #105
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IN!

Top work, Kirk!


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