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Old 01-09-2013, 11:32 AM   #1351
DirtyDog
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Okay, let's try plan 2...
...


Works great! ....sort of, anyway...

Trolley finds it's own center and the posts walk up a little on each side. Once the pulling angle in increased, both extend at the same rate.

But, as said before, I run out of reach on the hoist before the posts are fully extended. Bummer. Oh well, it was worth a try. If my retracted height was higher, it would have had a better chance of working.

That's called a learning experience, and learning ain't cheap. It's only a mistake if I do it again. Extra parts for the next invention...

Now I can focus on cleaning and painting the brake...
If you ditched the center block pulley and hook, putting a small hook on the cable instead... would the raising cable be allowed to then wind around the winch? If so, you would now have the setup you needed. Does that make sense?
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:22 PM   #1352
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Originally Posted by DirtyDog View Post
If you ditched the center block pulley and hook, putting a small hook on the cable instead... would the raising cable be allowed to then wind around the winch? If so, you would now have the setup you needed. Does that make sense?

That would probably work great if there wasn't a cable and hook on the spool already. It would raise me up fine, then the hook would be bound up with no up/down.

No biggie. I'm already in full-bore degreasing mode and about 2 hours away from paint on the brake.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:50 PM   #1353
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If you cut the cable you have now in half - run the now free end back to the same place as the dead end. In the loop add a block or just create an eye depending if you want the load to pull across a round sheave or from a thimble. Do this on both sides. Now make a short cable that will go between the two blocks/thimbles for the winch to pull. In the same distance of pull you will get twice as much lift. Of course you will also need another pulley on the bottom of each post.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:59 PM   #1354
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If you went hydraulic then you would need a pump and motor that would be able to lift/hold a ton plus and that would be a little to much work when the comealong's worked pretty good if ya asked me. Not saying it would be awesome though!
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:08 PM   #1355
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You don't need to do the entire lifting in one stroke with hydraulics. Extend cylinder 3" lifting the stuff, block, retract cylinder, do another 3". Stuff like that. They lift entire offshore drilling platforms this way.

Use your pulleys to increase travel instead of force. Hydraulic cylinder has to deliver more force, but that is no problem. Anything that brings you in the range of far cheaper and more common devices such as hydraulic jacks or something like that. Pneumatics would work too, probably faster, and a lot less expensive piping. But I think I would prefer the slower and steady travel of a hydraulic cylinder.

Or maybe some threaded rod (or acme screw) of decent size. That would be easy since you are using square pipe in square pipe so they can telescope but not turn in each other. Support the rod through a roller bearing (steering head bearing) on top, use a cheap pneumatic impact wrench to turn the rod. If you load the rod in extension and not in compression you can generate tremendous amounts of force this way.

Just some wild ideas to get the wheels in the brain turning, not necessarily doable or practical.
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:19 PM   #1356
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you're probably sick of the suggestions by now but with your pullies installed on the bottom, you can now use a single, unfurled come-along or better yet, boat trailer winch.

I'm assuming you are trying to get rid of the requirement of walking back and forth from end to end as the legs are jacked up

That brake is really great, is it going to be Ford Blue?
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:01 PM   #1357
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Originally Posted by CaptTeach View Post
If you cut the cable you have now in half - run the now free end back to the same place as the dead end. In the loop add a block or just create an eye depending if you want the load to pull across a round sheave or from a thimble. Do this on both sides. Now make a short cable that will go between the two blocks/thimbles for the winch to pull. In the same distance of pull you will get twice as much lift. Of course you will also need another pulley on the bottom of each post.

^ This sounds like the logical next step with what I have, but it will have to wait until next week sometime...
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:03 PM   #1358
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Originally Posted by dentvet View Post
you're probably sick of the suggestions by now but with your pullies installed on the bottom, you can now use a single, unfurled come-along or better yet, boat trailer winch.

I'm assuming you are trying to get rid of the requirement of walking back and forth from end to end as the legs are jacked up

That brake is really great, is it going to be Ford Blue?
Not at all. All the suggestions are good food for thought. It helps my pea brain figure things out!

Thanks, nah - Roper Whitney blue.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:13 PM   #1359
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I take a break on the gantry pulley system for now. I want to get the brake dolled up and ready for work next week...



Fingers removed. I use Simple Green at 100% strength to cut all the old grease on all sliding parts. Some of the grease was so hard that I had to chisel it off. Looks like the brake was well-used and then mothballed for an extended time. It is in very good shape. It just doesn't look like it yet.



I liked the X-O paint so much on the gantry that I go back for some more for the brake. I try to tint some light blue to match the existing Roper Whitney color.



I just do a little at a time. There are a lot of surfaces and plenty of places to run the paint, so I have to keep double-checking where I have been. One thing I noticed on the gantry is that this paint really darkens up as it dries. I hope I tinted it enough...

I'm going to try to take small bites of this after getting in from work this week. Maybe with some luck I can use it on my next break.



And I still have all the fingers to de-grease and prep for paint. It should turn out nice. This tool still has many years of good use left in it. I'm happy to have it.

Thanks for all the input on the gantry, guys! Until next time...
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:29 PM   #1360
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Kirk - I have told you something wrong - sorta The dead end of the cables will need to be at the bottom of the post then go to turning blocks where your dead ends are now. By pulling down from the center of the loop will use twice the amount of cable in the same pull. You will not need to cut the cable you have now, but need to build the loop to go from the bottom of the post to the turning blocks.

Sorry about that - was kinda in a hurry and didnt think it thru properly
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:42 PM   #1361
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Originally Posted by CaptTeach View Post
Kirk - I have told you something wrong - sorta The dead end of the cables will need to be at the bottom of the post then go to turning blocks where your dead ends are now. By pulling down from the center of the loop will use twice the amount of cable in the same pull. You will not need to cut the cable you have now, but need to build the loop to go from the bottom of the post to the turning blocks.

Sorry about that - was kinda in a hurry and didnt think it thru properly
Yeah, I was picturing that in my mind thinking that taking them both back to the same point doesn't make much of a difference compared to what I already have...

We'll get it figured out one way or another.


If nothing else, the come-alongs actually work quite nice. I can move up 3 holes on one side, 6 on the other, 6 holes on the first side, etc, etc, and it goes rather quickly. If I stay with this method, the cheapy come-alongs will be ditched in favor of some quality made come-alongs. The engagement on these cheapys doesn't feel completely "positive" all the time. I'm waiting for them to jump a tooth and slip, although they haven't as of yet.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:06 PM   #1362
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Hey could you bring that gantry to Grenada MS?? I'm heading to Springfield MO to get a big ass lathe Fri. It's supposed to weigh about 3000lbs!!
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:28 PM   #1363
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This is my favorite place to visit in AdvRider. I got an old stick welder from my dad and tried to make mods on an old rusty trailer. Just couldn't pull it off and gave all the equipment to my brother. You and your projects have given me hope. All the posts are great too. Best thread ever!

I am going to retire this coming year and committed to learning to weld. Plan welding school and then buy a modern welder. This is just to say thanks and keep it coming kirkster70.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:50 PM   #1364
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Stopped at my favorite scrap yard yesterday to find some base material for FrankenGantry.

They had this 6X6 tube on the rack, and I got 15' for $56, including cutting two 6' lengths. I love the place!

Have to finish some projects down at the shop before getting underway, but I think I now have all the steel I need to build this thing.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:28 PM   #1365
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Hey could you bring that gantry to Grenada MS?? I'm heading to Springfield MO to get a big ass lathe Fri. It's supposed to weigh about 3000lbs!!
Sure! You may have to upgrade my Yale hoist, though!

Whatcha' gettin'???
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