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Old 10-05-2010, 11:20 AM   #1
Jacl-Kampuchea OP
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Classic Honda Cub 50 Resto

Here's my Daelim 100cc. Honda engine and has a lot of parts in common with a honda cub.

Best thing about this is three sets of footpegs an an enormous passenger bench.

I have carried four western folk on the back. Record I have seen on one of these was eight cambodians.

I had the engine rebuilt for $50 in january, new front wheel, decals - though some bastard stole a lovely celtic bull motif I had on it.

Had it's monthly service today, oil, fuel filter and spark plugs changed.

I had a head on collision with a small truck three weeks or a month ago on this and had to change everything from the top mount forward. Cost $30

My AX, in the previous post cost $116 for a new back shock, chain slide and brake bushes:(







I wear this can on the moped, when I wear one, as the motocross one would look ghey:


Jacl-Kampuchea screwed with this post 10-05-2010 at 11:50 AM
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:20 AM   #2
Jacl-Kampuchea OP
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New baby for restoration. Give me ten days . . .
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:22 AM   #3
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And 21 hours later. . .only three hours work, but 21 hours from purchase.



My back aches.
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Old 10-08-2010, 01:51 AM   #4
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Luckily they are very simple machines to work on. You can take one to individual components with a 9mm to 17mm spanner set, screwdriver, hammer and chisel.

I will need a wiring diagram though as, well, it was not exactly wired up properly when I bought it so I just gutted it of 25+ years of bodged wiring.

I feel a little lightheaded now as I just spent five hours removing what turned out to be six (six!!) coats of different coloured paint with thinners. Looks like it was something similar to British Racing Green originally. I'm going to spray it either that or a nice Orange.

Here's the frame (almost) at bare metal.

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Old 10-21-2010, 03:53 AM   #5
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Been away/busy and drunk over the last week and a half.

Finally got some more of the cleaning back to bare metal done. Found a few tiny holes that need to be spotted and sanded.



Im just going to rustproof and seal up inside the chassis, get the rest of the body stripped of imperfections, prime itt up and lleave it while I work on my engine next.

Can anybody tell me how I can tell the model year from the chassis number?? I think it's a 70's model, but it could be 60's.
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Old 10-21-2010, 04:29 AM   #6
Coopdway
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Interesting to see how the original design has morphed over time. What frame numbers are present?
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Old 10-21-2010, 05:14 AM   #7
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C50-6170570 is the chassis number.

I much prefer this old body style to the new ones with the plastic tail and rectangular headlight.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:53 AM   #8
wanna bECO
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wow, Ilove it. are you a member of the c70 yahoo group. its concentrated on the US honda passport but there are a few members overseas that might be very helpful, although I can see by your mechanical ability you don't need much help! The owner of the site (Mike G) Has many overseas books and might be able to help you. Are you in cambodia? Are you an american? Your english is perfect if not for sure.
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Old 10-21-2010, 11:32 AM   #9
Jacl-Kampuchea OP
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I'm Irish, as it happens. But I do live in Phnom Penh, Cambodia these days.

Thanks for the tip on the C70 group. I will check it out.

My mechanical ability isn't brilliant at all, though I have motor trade experience so maybe I learnt a few tricks there that make simple jobs like this easier.
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Old 10-21-2010, 07:23 PM   #10
CoolioRZ
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That's cool!

I knew Daelim had a partnership with Honda, but I've never seen any proof until now.
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Old 10-24-2010, 03:34 PM   #11
Otto Rax
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Where can I get a front "50" badge like you have. My Honda Passport has a "70 Deluxe" just like it, and I'd love to replace it with a 50 for my plateless driving :)
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Old 11-30-2011, 12:41 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacl-Kampuchea View Post
Been away/busy and drunk over the last week and a half.

Finally got some more of the cleaning back to bare metal done. Found a few tiny holes that need to be spotted and sanded.



Im just going to rustproof and seal up inside the chassis, get the rest of the body stripped of imperfections, prime itt up and lleave it while I work on my engine next.

Can anybody tell me how I can tell the model year from the chassis number?? I think it's a 70's model, but it could be 60's.

And that was 13 months ago.

Life got in the way.

New wife, business, bar and three more bikes. Plus a house move.

The bare metal got pitted with rust as it languished in the corner

But, I have some free time again and am back on this project.

Here's how it looked a few weeks ago before I re-started.



Update coming soon.
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Old 11-30-2011, 09:37 AM   #13
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Anybody able to help with putting an age on it? I thought the front badge may help, but no.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:15 AM   #14
Jacl-Kampuchea OP
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So, I went out and bought a sled load of 320 wet/dry paper and after some sore fingers brought things to this:



Yup, that's my bed the frame's resting upon. My wife is very forgiving
The blemish in front of the rear indicator mount is where I had just JB welded a 2mm hole but not sanded back the JB yet.

Sanded:



Sanding back a spot weld:



Head bearings were worse for wear, to say the least:



I then looked under her skirt:





That's going to require copious application of elbow grease.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:54 AM   #15
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The rear fender has been repaired in the past. Welds look decent enough.



When I had at cleaning up the tail it turned out to be better than at first glance. I didn't wash the bike before the teardown, so there was a good bit of mud that came right off when I wirebrushed it and that, plus half an hour of sanding made it pretty clean.



In the next pic you can see the spot inside the body where water got in and caused the pinhole I JB welded earlier. I opened it up, cleaned it out, packed it with grease and sealed it up. Not the best way, but should hold it for now.



Tomorrow I will look after the front section of the underbelly and inside the frame where the tank will sit. Then underseal the rear fender to prevent future corrosion.

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